Database Develop

XDA 2i touchscreen

I bought a replacement digitizer off ebay and they have sent me the generation 1 version.
Before I go and buy the right one can anyone tell me how easy it is to solder the correct one and also if anyone needs a generation 1 version I have a new one here and would be happy to sell it on.
Thanks

its a ***** to do, i just replaced one on my dads xda2, but its the same as the xda2i
after taking a long time to carfuly remove the original without damaging the lcd, i used a safty blade and slid it between the buggered digitizer ad its plastic mount, be VERY carful as u need to apply force and its easy to slip, as i first did and sliced a 2" gash into my thumb... not good. second time i was alot more carful. by putting the screen edge down on a table top and wiggling the blade down all 4 sides, be carful not to cut the lcd ribbon!
i had to cut the 2 side tabs on the touch screens ribbon down by 3-4mm and then seperate all 4 leads, this is due to the design of the gen 2 screen i just followed the way it was originaly soldered on.
you also have to have a low wattage or cool soldering iron, around 10-15watt as it is very easy to damage the contacts i heated the solder on the lcd side and pressed the digitizers ribbon onto it with a small amount of flux, then used a flat screwdriver to quickly cool it down the area, you also have to put slips of paper between the 2 sides leads and the center 2, as it will short out, this was also done originaly.
sounds hard to do but its easy with a little patience, and soldering skills.
i bought it from ebay as well
p.s. do not glue the new digitizer with superglue as you will damage the screen, i just placed it back in the case without sticking it in, been fine for the last few weeks but a few VERY thing strips of double sided tape will do or if your lucky some of the origial sticky stuff will be left over.

does this "digitiser" thing is the faulty part which causing the PDA screen to have so-called Dead area ?
or "missing area"
because I won O2 XDA IIi which can't create straight line at the bottom of the screen.
where and is there any tutorial on how to replace such thing ?
Cheers.

[Q] Streak replacement capacitive buttons.

I damaged my Capacitive buttons (flex circuit).
Can anyone recommend where to get a replacement part?

Lol. I did the same thing. Ladies and gentlemen please wait for the plastic tool to arrive in the mail before you start trying to disassemble your streak! I used a screwdriver and it cut through the flexible circuit card. Contemplated fixing it, but there`s five tracks on the circuit board!
I got a quote from an ebay seller in the UK for the capacitive buttons and plastic bezel. 90 pounds plust postage. What a rip off! I ended up buying a complete streak from ebay. It was locked to O2 and had the lcd bleeding problem, but perfect for me. Keep your eye out.
In the meantime, install softkeys from the market. It is a replacement home/settings/back button. A little inconvenient, but keeps you going while you bide your time on evilbay.
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App

printed circuits
My first streak also has a broken capacitive circuit board, didn't use this plastic tool for disassembling..
Now i use a old modified tooth brush
Was ready to ask a flexible board manufacturer what it would cost to reproduce such a circuit but for now i'm also using softkeys..
Maybe if we get 100 people together who needs one of those capacitive button circuits its worth asking a reproduction?

Thanks for the inputs. I got the key to work again after some fiddling. I'm just waiting for it to inevitably fail. I'll probably just get a new phone when that happens.

how do you get it broken? not that i wanted too, but it sound strange to me
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App

Pretty easy... First time pulling it apart, had not seen any videos of the process. Fixit. Com (OR IFIXIT?) wasn't that comprehensive. Of course I was overtired and of course used a small screwdriver instead of a plastic removal tool.
Excuses, excuses. The screwdriver ultimately was the wrong thing.
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App

Does anyone know where i can buy the Streak front 4 buttons and volume rocker buttons ribbons ?

http://www.dellstreakrepairs.co.uk/spares.html
I broke my capacitive button ribbon cable, anyone have any luck finding replacements? I'm going to try to repair it.

Wheeew, just finished repairing my broken cap buttons. Most nerve-wracking soldering job ever.
I managed to tear through 5 contacts on the flex PCB when disassembling the Streak because I didn't bother to read the obvious warning about this on ifixit Also, I was taking the week-old device apart for no good reason, so I had it bloody coming, really. Anyway, even with a high-quality soldering iron and a stereomicroscope this repair was a massive pain, but it is doable.
I think it should be possible to repair even a completely broken ribbon - I would scrape off the plastic off the ends of the tracks and then glue the underside of both halves of the circuit in place (or tape together if not possible). Then you need to tin the tracks with solder - plenty of flux helps. After that it's the difficult matter of bridging the broken tracks with solder blobs or tiny pieces of wire while not shorting across them. Finally a layer of epoxy to secure it all. Not even worth attempting if you don't have a really good soldering iron and a microscope. Can't use too high a temperature or the plastic melts. I did the repair with the phone assembled fully except for the bottom panel, flex PCB attached to phone - the broken area was still accessible for me and this way reduces the risk of breaking contacts during reassembly.
Hope this helps someone!

Posted in error

is it available now . coz i searched all through the internet and couldnt find the home and back buttons strip .

DashingGentleman said:
Wheeew, just finished repairing my broken cap buttons. Most nerve-wracking soldering job ever.
I managed to tear through 5 contacts on the flex PCB when disassembling the Streak because I didn't bother to read the obvious warning about this on ifixit Also, I was taking the week-old device apart for no good reason, so I had it bloody coming, really. Anyway, even with a high-quality soldering iron and a stereomicroscope this repair was a massive pain, but it is doable.
I think it should be possible to repair even a completely broken ribbon - I would scrape off the plastic off the ends of the tracks and then glue the underside of both halves of the circuit in place (or tape together if not possible). Then you need to tin the tracks with solder - plenty of flux helps. After that it's the difficult matter of bridging the broken tracks with solder blobs or tiny pieces of wire while not shorting across them. Finally a layer of epoxy to secure it all. Not even worth attempting if you don't have a really good soldering iron and a microscope. Can't use too high a temperature or the plastic melts. I did the repair with the phone assembled fully except for the bottom panel, flex PCB attached to phone - the broken area was still accessible for me and this way reduces the risk of breaking contacts during reassembly.
Hope this helps someone!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I may attempt this...$40usd for a new assembly is a bit high...

You can find the top/bottom parts on Ebay and on Lingosbox.com
I've purchased some spare parts for other phones on lingosbox - they are not genuine oem parts but for this price, it's a bargain for replacement parts that are rare/difficult to find. There's some delay(15-27days) but everything has arrived without any problem.

good to know someone found it cheaper

Broken connector for touchscreen on logic board

Tried to change the front glass of my OB i bricked the connector for the touch screen.
Has anyone an idea how to fix it??

That is awkward. That i think it's a card edge connector, you can try your luck on google, or take a look here or better here..
Good luck.

Sorry for giving bad news, but the connector itself its OK, the problem is around the copper tracks inside of it.
In the image I can see that you pulled up too much from the connector, and due this force, the cooper tracks broke up.
Its really hard to fix.. if you have good soldering skills, you can download the service manual and see where the tracks go, and fix by soldering very small wires.
I had problems too, with the connector that connects the usb, power button and earphones. It had dropped alone inside the phone, due poor soldering quality.
So, nothing was broken, and I could solder it back. But your case is very different.
I guess that the only fix for most users is a new board.

You need a hot air solder gun for that job. Or at least a very thin metal one, but it will be difficult anyway. I think using a hot air one might help you to fix the copper tracks, it's not necessarily to have great skills.

Nexus 6 smd component broken

Hi, some time ago when i was dissasembling my Nexus 6 due to a camera replacement, i accidentally broke an smd component below the camera that is part of the screen well it only detached one pin ftom the two it has so i suited it in his place again and attached back the yellow transparent tape it has, i proceeded to reassemble the phone and all went good except when i low the brightness to certain point it starts to show Green lines and distortion but at a normal ir not so low brightness there Is no problem, Also i noticed an high amperage consumption and consequently a low battery duration i suppose it happens due to the broken component and want your advice if i should weld it again, it is very small and Is surrounded by many components as the same i broke, should i use heat gun? Or a soldering iron ? Tin welding or liquid welding, or i just should heat the welding the component has and set it again un his place? There Is a photo of What im talking about (the photo Is from a broken screen i have but it shows the components)
http ://i.imgurcom/h4TemYN. png
Just add the point after imgur and delete the spaces to see the image, im not available to put links Yet.

Lots of questions to ask here, so I'm going to just get to it.
1. What is the wattage rating of your soldering iron?
2. Is your soldering iron a pencil type or gun type?
3. How small is the tip?
4. Did you apply any extra solder in attempting your repair?
The wattage of the soldering iron and its type are critically important. Too much heat and you could destroy the component. Also, the damage here could be to the board itself and not the component. When one side lifted from the board it could have pulled up the solder pad the component was sitting on, breaking the trace underneath. What I'd need to see, prior to you doing anything else, is a picture of the actual board you worked on.
My advice? I would get a new screen. The fact of the matter is that you shouldn't have taken a soldering iron to the component as you could easily have burned the board and burned out the component. In such a confined area you could also have accidentally created a solder bridge, which could also cause the issues you're seeing. What you should have used was a heat gun set to 300 degrees celsius. Hold the heat gun one inch above the surface and turn it on, holding it steady for one minute. So long as no traces were broken in the initial mishap, this would allow the solder to liquify and restore the connection between component and board.*
*A heat gun is what I used to repair my Dell Inspiron 15, by applying steady heat to the GPU for a minute. This caused the solder balls making the connection to liquify and restore the connection with the motherboard. Two years later and the laptop still works.

It s an easy job with the right equipment ,and being a technician . Only trouble I can think off is to find the same component but since you have a broken screen it should be easy. I think if you have no experience you can seriously ruin your display. Bring it disassembled to a technician with the component to remove and solder back from the broken display . It's an easy job and I wouldn't charge more than 10€ to resolder it from the broken one to the working one. Elsewhere if you want to do it by yourself you need an hot air rework station and a good flux to recover the component from the ko display , and then a fine tip to solder it back ( a good flux is your friend ) . Don't use hot hair to mount the component to the new display, you can screw the flex cable, it's really delicate

@Axel85: I don't agree that it's necessary to be a technician to replace a surface mount component. The OP can do the job if he has a low-wattage soldering iron or a variable wattage model. I do agree that flux is a good idea however. I honestly wish I had some when I was repairing my laptop, but I also got lucky. The heat gun I thought would have been better for the initial repair, because I thought this might have been an actual board on the underside of the display that the ribbon cables connected to. Thus the soldering iron was the right choice.
The problem here is that he didn't post a picture of his work, so we can't see what's been done to the board. For all we know the pad lifted off the board, which broke the trace. He could have burned the board by using a high-wattage soldering iron. He could have destroyed the component with the soldering iron. If he used additional solder he could have accidentally bridged the connection. There are simply too many unknowns here to present an informed opinion.

Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
@Axel85: I don't agree that it's necessary to be a technician to replace a surface mount component. The OP can do the job if he has a low-wattage soldering iron or a variable wattage model. I do agree that flux is a good idea however. I honestly wish I had some when I was repairing my laptop, but I also got lucky. The heat gun I thought would have been better for the initial repair, because I thought this might have been an actual board on the underside of the display that the ribbon cables connected to. Thus the soldering iron was the right choice.
The problem here is that he didn't post a picture of his work, so we can't see what's been done to the board. For all we know the pad lifted off the board, which broke the trace. He could have burned the board by using a high-wattage soldering iron. He could have destroyed the component with the soldering iron. If he used additional solder he could have accidentally bridged the connection. There are simply too many unknowns here to present an informed opinion.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes we need pictures... It's not a board, it's fully a flat, so hot hair could ruin the flex even if you move it flat to a dashboard, you can't even imagine how easy is to break those flex. More than this with hot air and amoled displays you have to be really careful, those types off display are delicate too. For the fact that it could be able to solder back the component , if he can is ok, but to do a perfect job you must have experience ,the matrix of components on the flex is very tight . It's better to bring it to a technician than try to do something you can't do... It's 10€ Vs a screen replacement of 180. If he has experience , better for him, for me would be an easy job.
You should also consider that the use of the display without the component could ruin. Something else on the motherboard

@Axel85: Just to clarify, I'm not saying he shouldn't bring it to a tech. Just that it isn't necessary to be a tech to do such a repair. I agree that he'd be much better off taking it to a tech, though I think it's too late and the damage has already been done.

Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
@Axel85: Just to clarify, I'm not saying he shouldn't bring it to a tech. Just that it isn't necessary to be a tech to do such a repair. I agree that he'd be much better off taking it to a tech, though I think it's too late and the damage has already been done.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I understand but I can tell you its harder than you think, you must have a good skills with soldering iron to resolder this component inside this matrix of others.
We need to know more about him and get damaged area pictures to evaluate an answer

@Axel85: Preaching to the choir.
IOW, I agree.

Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
Lots of questions to ask here, so I'm going to just get to it.
1. What is the wattage rating of your soldering iron?
2. Is your soldering iron a pencil type or gun type?
3. How small is the tip?
4. Did you apply any extra solder in attempting your repair?
The wattage of the soldering iron and its type are critically important. Too much heat and you could destroy the component. Also, the damage here could be to the board itself and not the component. When one side lifted from the board it could have pulled up the solder pad the component was sitting on, breaking the trace underneath. What I'd need to see, prior to you doing anything else, is a picture of the actual board you worked on.
My advice? I would get a new screen. The fact of the matter is that you shouldn't have taken a soldering iron to the component as you could easily have burned the board and burned out the component. In such a confined area you could also have accidentally created a solder bridge, which could also cause the issues you're seeing. What you should have used was a heat gun set to 300 degrees celsius. Hold the heat gun one inch above the surface and turn it on, holding it steady for one minute. So long as no traces were broken in the initial mishap, this would allow the solder to liquify and restore the connection between component and board.*
*A heat gun is what I used to repair my Dell Inspiron 15, by applying steady heat to the GPU for a minute. This caused the solder balls making the connection to liquify and restore the connection with the motherboard. Two years later and the laptop still works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. 60 watts the thin soldering iron, 140 watts the gun one , i have other pencil soldering iron of 30 watts
2. I have both
3. I don't have the specifications but is very thin
4. No i just suited the component in his place and put back the yellow tape
5.- The board is all right i also confirmed it (The component i broke is part of the LCD)
6.- I've already posted a link to the image because i can't post links or images yet, there is again : http ://i.imgur.com/h4TemYN. png (just copy and paste in the search bar and delete the blank spaces in the link to see the image)
7.- All right then i will try it
Thank you so much for your advice :good:

@BRMX7: Read the rest of the thread before doing anything.
1. You should be using no more than 30 watts on small electronics. 60 watts for your pencil iron is too hot and will have likely fried the component. I hope you didn't try using the gun on this, which leads to my second question.
2. Which one did you use to make this repair? I hope it wasn't the gun, because you may have done far more damage than you can see.
3. Post a picture.
4. Good. That eliminates the possibility of a solder bridge. Though there may still be damage you can't see, especially to the component itself.
5. How can you confirm it based solely on sight? On the rare occasions where I needed to get up close to the work, I had both a 16x and 20x jeweler's loupe handy (most recently when I was repairing my car remote).
6. According to your post, the image you posted is not of the screen you worked on, but a second screen that was already broken. @Axel85 and I both want to see a picture of the screen you worked on. If what you posted is the screen you worked on, make that clear.
7. See the opening sentence of this post.

Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
@BRMX7: Read the rest of the thread before doing anything.
1. You should be using no more than 30 watts on small electronics. 60 watts for your pencil iron is too hot and will have likely fried the component. I hope you didn't try using the gun on this, which leads to my second question.
2. Which one did you use to make this repair? I hope it wasn't the gun, because you may have done far more damage than you can see.
3. Post a picture.
4. Good. That eliminates the possibility of a solder bridge. Though there may still be damage you can't see, especially to the component itself.
5. How can you confirm it based solely on sight? On the rare occasions where I needed to get up close to the work, I had both a 16x and 20x jeweler's loupe handy (most recently when I was repairing my car remote).
6. According to your post, the image you posted is not of the screen you worked on, but a second screen that was already broken. @Axel85 and I both want to see a picture of the screen you worked on. If what you posted is the screen you worked on, make that clear.
7. See the opening sentence of this post.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. Okay i will use it in 30 watts it is a variable welding station
2.I haven't done anything first i asked for advice before doing any repairment on it.
3. i did it (i will post one of the damaged one)( I didn't posted one of the damaged one because i'm using it right now and i haven't my tools at the hand to dissasembly it and take the picture) looks exactly the same than the damaged one because the indicated component in the image is in the same place but just with the right pin detached .
4. I will have care
5-6. I confirmed it using a variable power supply and a multimeter doing various proceedures to know what was the problem, testing if the power consumption was problem of any component or the screen, also checked it with a flir thermal camera of a friend and it was all right in the board.

BRMX7 said:
1. Okay i will use it in 30 watts it is a variable welding station
2.I haven't done anything first i asked for advice before doing any repairment on it.
3. i did it (i will post one of the damaged one)( I didn't posted one of the damaged one because i'm using it right now and i haven't my tools at the hand to dissasembly it and take the picture) looks exactly the same than the damaged one because the indicated component in the image is in the same place but just with the right pin detached .
4. I will have care
5-6. I confirmed it using a variable power supply and a multimeter doing various proceedures to know what was the problem, testing if the power consumption was problem of any component or the screen, also checked it with a flir thermal camera of a friend and it was all right in the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The best way than is to recover the component from the old broken display flex and solder it back in place . If you ripped off the solder pad you can search where it goes with the tester, you just need to expose a little point of the solder pad way ,and then make a bridge

Display Replacement

Hey guys,
unluckily my Display (not the glass) got broken so I have to replace it and also ordered it already. After watching a few teardowns I have two questions:
Do I have to remove the back or can I just warm up the adhesive and take the screen off?
Can I use glue to replace it or do I have to use tape and can I use normal nail polish remover to remove the adhesive residue?
Sincerely

unins000 said:
Hey guys,
unluckily my Display (not the glass) got broken so I have to replace it and also ordered it already. After watching a few teardowns I have two questions:
Do I have to remove the back or can I just warm up the adhesive and take the screen off?
Can I use glue to replace it or do I have to use tape and can I use normal nail polish remover to remove the adhesive residue?
Sincerely
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can go through the front, but it definitely would be more risky since all components will still be connected.
I would personally not use glue. Glue is meant to support more rigid materials and the components in the phone are quite fragile. Though you could use very thin electronic glue. Not sure how well that would work.
Regarding the nail polish remover, I would not use that unless the content of water is <10%. You want at least 90% alcohol content for cleaning the adhesive. Your best bet is IPA (isopropyl alcohol). It will clean better and will not risk water damage to any components inside the phone.

So you say I have to do it from the back?
What is the risky part of going through the front?
Because of glue: Can I use any double sided tape I want?

So now I opened the ROG Phone 2 through the back and made the following experiences. And for all those who are wondering the same:
In my opinion you can't go through the front because the display is connected with a flex cable through the middle frame (which is indepentend from the display so the display comes without a middle frame where the components are assembled in like in many other smartphones) to the motherboard. Though there is a cut out in the middle frame for it but the motherboard blocks it so far that only the cable itself can go through and not the connecting port. Maybe you can disconnect the display but not connect the new one without disassembling the motherboard from the middle frame. And that's only possible with going through the back and loose the screws. In additon, especially after a fall, there can be more components be broken as just the display. In this case you can connect the new display and check all the functions before glue it together back again.
Because of the glue:
There is a glue available in two colors called B-7000 and T-7000. One of them is black and the other one is transparent depending on the color of your smartphone. These glues are especially made for smartphones. If you watch the Display replacement videos for the ROG Phone 2 you can see that they are using this type of glue and not double sided tape since it has to be 1 mm or narrower to be able to glue the display with the middle frame again.
For the back you can use double sided tape.