You can solve removing with a cutter some plastic from the "dent" of nanosim tray (the one you use for extract).
This little piece of plastic sometime rise a little the port cover.
Obviously you need to remove very little piece of plastic, not the entire dent.
heavyhms said:
You can solve removing with a cutter some plastic from the "dent" of nanosim tray (the one you use for extract).
This little piece of plastic sometime raise a little the port cover.
Obviously you need to remove very little piece of plastic, not the entire dent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It may also help to tuck the lip from the info sheet away under the pull part from the SIM tray, like this:
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degraaff said:
It may also help to tuck the lip from the info sheet away under the pull part from the SIM tray, like this:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good:
Basically, if your flap is rised from the side of nanosim you need to cut some plastic from extraction dent, if is rised from other side you can tuck the lip
heavyhms said:
:good:
Basically, if your flap is rised from the side of nanosim you need to cut some plastic from extraction dent, if is rised from other side you can tuck the lip
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For me, the SIM flap is raised about 1/3 or 1/4 millimetre, but only at the side closest to the magnetic port. But it doesn't seem to be a problem as I've tested it in water.
degraaff said:
For me, the SIM flap is raised about 1/3 or 1/4 millimetre, but only at the side closest to the magnetic port. But it doesn't seem to be a problem as I've tested it in water.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Was the same for me, but removing some plastic from microsim tray now is totally aligned.
heavyhms said:
Was the same for me, but removing some plastic from microsim tray now is totally aligned.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure about removing plastic from it, can you still take out the tray easily? It looks like, for it to have any effect at all, I would at least need to remove the entire part for the nail? Because it looks like a 90° bend from the rest of the tray.
---------- Post added at 09:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:00 PM ----------
I'm also pretty sure this would void the warranty, no?
I can remove "almost" easily with the fingernail , better with a small plier .. Could be necessary to remove the most of 90°part (can vary by phone) , but this is a removable part: you can buy the one for previous Z Series phones on EBay for 1-3 euro. On the next future will be available for sure also the one for Z3 Compact
Related
As many of you know, the BA stylus tends to loosen over time. Mine was falling out, so I busted open the case and fixed it redneck style.
Tools needed:
a) #6 torx driver
b) sharp diagonal cutters
c) x-acto or similar sharp knife
d) patience
Have a look:
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Back up your stuff! Your backup battery doesn't last that long - about 30 minutes max. When I finished and put it all back together I was at 1% lol.
Remove the sim, SD card, stylus and battery.
Remove 4 screws on back of case under battery (peel away the 'warranty void' sticker haha) and 2 screws on sides of case near the top.
My case was very dirty, I cleaned everything with cotton swabs and alchohol - especially near the camera.
I used a small pair of very sharp diagonal cutters to create a hard rubber shim, then tuned it with a knife.
Placed behind the original plastic detent, the shim acts like a spring and retains pressure against the stylus.
I used an old rubber thingy I found in the garage. Just make sure it's not too hard
I had to repeatedly close the case, check the tension, and adjust the shim. Finally I got it super nice. It feels like new.
Tune the length of the shim to match the BA case. This way it will be retained in the proper location and won't shift around. Mine could be a few mm longer if I were super anal.
Use loctite on the case screws. The side screws on my O2 XDA IIs were loose, in fact I noticed one had fallen out. I looked in my pants pocket and LOL there it was! If I hadn't done this mod at this exact time, I would have lost that screw. Weird, no?
Anyhow, hope someone finds this helpful. Enjoy!
on my BA, instead of using a rubber thingy since that plastic thingy which was supposed to keep the stylus in place broke in half when i tested its springiness with my screwdriver hehehe. so what i did is i just lined the stylus cavity with my trusty duct tape. voila, tight as a barely legal babe. just one reminder, make sure you have the buttons lined up properly when you screw back the cover, especially the volume up/down buttons... mine was locked at the down setting... would correct it as soon as another event forces me to open up again the BA
Worked like a charm! Many thanks!
Alternative fix
Great suggestion...although I came up with another option, less stressful than pulling my BA apart.
Using the standard stylus, soak the plastic end in boiling water for a while (it doesnt go soft, just a bit more flexible) and then bend it slightly as shown. With a bit of tweaking, you can get it so that it has just enough interference to stay in, yet easily slide out. Its just the end plastic bit thats curved and I had to glue the threaded end of the plastic that screws into the metal body before this as it was loose from earlier attempts to bend the plastic without heating it.
Tried it with the combination pen/stylus which dont have a long plastic end....bit more difficult as I tried to bend the aluminium body....which resulted in a 2 piece stylus (ie broken)
HTH
Another solution
A very simple solution is to put a bit of sticky tape in the black part of plastic spare of your Stylus. It will not move of the BA
another alt fix
I found that if you are going to take your BA apart to fix the stylus capture tab you might try to put some silicone in between the back of the tab and the side wall you will have to let it dry for about 24 hours before inserting your stylus again but this should correct the problem of it wearing out and becoming loose.
ok... I've adopted this solution...
I'm looking to buy a replacement battery cover for my Sony Xperia in black. Anybody know where to find one?
Thanks!
I second that, looking for a replacement cover as well..
Keep an eye out on this site http://cnn.cn/shop/sonyericsson-xperia-c-28_638.html, so far they just have a placeholder for the X1 but they are a great resource for OEM replacement parts. Hopefully they'll start stocking X1 parts soon.
yeah i would like to get one so i can drill a hole in it. seems like im always resetting this phone and i hate to keep taking the cover off. im afraid it might not stay on after so many removals.
This is the battery cover of my x1 !!
That hole is so pratical!
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Hmmm... that drilling isn't exactly top-notch. How was it done?
i think it looks good. what are the dimension from either the top of the battery cover or bottom. what drill bit size also.
thanks.
put a small piece of paper soaked with ink in the reset button hole. Then close the battery cover. Open the battery cover and you can see the exact point to drill.
You must use a mini-drill, like dremel
Am looking for a replacement battery cover too. My week old X1 looks 100% brand new, but unfortunately, I made a small dent on the battery cover by accident. If this was an old phone I wouldn't care much. But, mine is barely a week old......
I email to sony support, I'm in HK
and they said the battery cover need HK$280
I still thinking buy or not, cause the metal battery cover is too easy with scratches
unless your phone freeze, u dont need to press that reset button, there are softwares that let you softsoft.
when phone freezes, holding the "panel" button usually get out of freeze.
I also would like to buy new battery cove (silver). Somebody found where can we buy new cover??
Thanks
if u do have scratches, i suggest u remove the cover, grab a tin of brasso and nice muslin cloth. Polish the cover you would be amazed at the stuff a polish from brasso can do. Again recommended only on the cover.
i have done it on my x1 and my ipod. Both look as good as new.
I am looking for a cover too, so i can buy one and get vodafone to reimburse me, are they made of a cheapo material, mine got really scraped in my pocket within a few hours, but nothing else was in my pocket and its a cotton/polyester pocket...
Ric
When i was doing a mod on the cover (drilling a hole for the reset), i found that it was hard to drill thru. i think its made of stainless steel. anyways, i got the silver one, you might be talking about the black x1 getting easily scratched on the battery cover because its painted. i dont know if thats a true statement, just an assumption.
The black ones are anodised and not painted.
joej said:
The black ones are anodised and not painted.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does it mean it is possible to poish it in a way if there is a scratch there?
I have some small annoying scratches that i hope to be able to remove, maybe wait for replacement battery cover to arrive at cnn.cn
My girlfriend dropped has dropped her phone a couple of times and I'm looking at replacing her screen digitiser and housing. I've previously replaced the housing on my old HTC Magic/G2, so I've had some experience.
I was wondering if anyone here has replaced the screen digitiser or housing.
What kind of quality was the housing? Where from ebay?
Digitiser - same functionality as the original, precise, responsive?
Appreciate any input
hello, i have the same problem. I want to replace the house of incredible s but i dont fine anywhere. no case for this phone!
i you find one, you can tell me where
screen replacement
i am in the middle of replacing my lcd and digitizer on my inc s..
all i can say it is a nightmare of a job and i repair alot of phones..
if anyone cracks or smashes their screen, here is a bit of advise , try and find someone who sells the whole screen with the front housing of the phone already built up or at least the screen,digitiser and touch keys already assembled with adhesive strips..
Just replaced cracked screen its not too difficult to get to the digitizer
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screen replacement
i wouldn't have said its the easiest screen to replace , it takes a bit of patience as you need some double sided strong strips as the digitizer i ordered didn't come with any.
you need a heat gun or hair drier to get the digitizer off and when you put it back together you have to keep the dust out..
i did have to replace the lcd also which did make the job a bit more difficult for me, would have been a bit easier if i had just repalced the digitizer.
ok i went a bit overboard with the nightmare bit but didnt have any double sided tape suitable for the job..
fridaycider said:
i wouldn't have said its the easiest screen to replace , it takes a bit of patience as you need some double sided strong strips as the digitizer i ordered didn't come with any.
you need a heat gun or hair drier to get the digitizer off and when you put it back together you have to keep the dust out..
i did have to replace the lcd also which did make the job a bit more difficult for me, would have been a bit easier if i had just repalced the digitizer.
ok i went a bit overboard with the nightmare bit but didnt have any double sided tape suitable for the job..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
3m scothc brand double sided tape from Walmart works great.
Sent from my HTC Incredible S
Can anyone recommend a good bike/motorbike mount (will be used for both) for the Dell Streak?
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App
I have this on my bike:
http://www.amazon.com/RAM-Mounting-...GJQI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1311293267&sr=8-1
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and then I gorilla glued the Dell car mount to the diamond shaped bracket.
I have also used a Otterbox holster for this also
I wouldn't trust the Otterbox holster. The only time I drop my phone, for the most part, is when it's in that holster... Stepping off a ledge, if you don't hold on to it, or be somewhat careful, then the holster lets go of the phone. Lol. But thanks, I might check it out.
And I don't like that the car mount doesn't secure it on both sides...
I heated the holster up a little over my stove's heating elements until the plastic softened. Then I pushed it in a little bit to tighten the fit.
It doesn't bump, shift or slide even a little. It snaps in tight.
To each their own.
I love how I see you've posted the same thing on like...4 different sites. I googled dell streak bike mount, and saw you commented on a few different sites about it. Lol.
Only answered people's questions... and it should have only been XDA and Pockatables. I found that people are usually much better off if they just do as I say.
Did you see how I mounted USB ports to power the phone?
Radimus said:
Only answered people's questions... and it should have only been XDA and Pockatables. I found that people are usually much better off if they just do as I say.
Did you see how I mounted USB ports to power the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I probably will be going with what you suggest, when it comes to mounting the phone. I see you've used it for a couple years, so it's fairly reliable. And I don't really see how you mounted them, but I do see that you mounted them. I'll just be using a usb converter for that, though.
http://www.hdforums.com/forum/6876555-post404.html
http://www.hdforums.com/forum/7042414-post422.html
That looks really nice, and I might do it one day. For now, I'll just use a converter.
And actually, I think what I might do is drill a couple of holes in the plastic part of my Otterbox, to attach it to the bike mount. Bad part is that I'll always have to have a screwdriver with me, lol. But oh well.
guesirwowghr said:
And actually, I think what I might do is drill a couple of holes in the plastic part of my Otterbox, to attach it to the bike mount. Bad part is that I'll always have to have a screwdriver with me, lol. But oh well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just scuffed up the mount and the bracket a bit and then used gorilla glue and a clamp. Just a thin smear on each side of the point of contact. Then let it setup for 24 hours before removing the clamp and cleaning the excess glue.
I've done 2 of them, one for the dell car mount and 1 for the otterbox defender holster.
If you do screws, do your best to countersink it some, you'd not want the scres to press against the case very much.
I know not to do that. And I literally have to spend the least amount of money possible. Which is the reason I'm going to get the mount, and just drill holes. I'll use a couple flatheaded screws, and probably just a wingnut at the other ends, so I don't need to carry a screwdriver around.
More precise. I'll drill a couple holes in the plastic part of my otterbox case, and in the bike mount. Then use flat screws (so the phone will still fit in the case) and put wingnuts on the other end.
I have a case with magnet to launch/suspend my Nexus. It also has the nice possibility to flip the front to the back. But unfortunately the magnet seems to be sufficiently strong enough to switch even in this position (from the back side). Any idea on how to prevent this? Some "magnetic isolation" from the backside?
Thanks!
I'd need to see a pic of the case really.
However with my old case I snapped the pointy bits off of some drawing pins by treading them in to the kitchen floor & lined them up in a square two across, two down. Then I wrapped it in aluminium foil and put sticky tape around it. Then I stuck the little square between my Nexus 7 case & the back of my Nexus 7. It worked perfectly & I still had the sleep function.
You might just want to replace the magnet with a weaker one if you can get to it easily
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
It is this case:
http://www.amazon.de/Schutzhülle-Fu...UTF8&colid=D0Y9AZ5AA2ME&coliid=I14S1WK45KAPCD
@Rock-&-Roll-Hedgehog: I didn't fully understand your instructions. But basically you suggest, that aluminium foil at the back of the nexus will reduce the magnetic field?
Thanks for your answers!
Guntram said:
It is this case:
http://www.amazon.de/Schutzhülle-Fu...UTF8&colid=D0Y9AZ5AA2ME&coliid=I14S1WK45KAPCD
@Rock-&-Roll-Hedgehog: I didn't fully understand your instructions. But basically you suggest, that aluminium foil at the back of the nexus will reduce the magnetic field?
Thanks for your answers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No I got some drawing pins like these
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bash off the pointy bits you only want the heads. Lay them in a two by two configuration and wrap them in aluminium foil. I think the drawing pins are made from copper but don't quote me. You buy them at any stationers for a pound or so (couple of dollars for a big box). They then seem to shield the back from the magnetic field.
PS Guntram are you German? You need Reißzwecke, metal ones no plastic.
Thanks for the advice!
I've used the botton of a tea candle now. Still not sure thought, wether its the material or just the "size" of the object - but it works!
Any sort of "thick enough, big enough" piece of metal will diffuse the magnetic field. So your bit of metal from the bottom of the candle was enough. Aluminum foil would most likely work if you fold it enough times.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
bsoplinger said:
Aluminum foil would most likely work if you fold it enough times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doesn't there need to be some iron in there?
Hedgehog's drawing pin solution is pretty clever. Could you tell me whereabouts in the case 'tray' you placed them? Save me a bunch of trial and error by giving me a starting point.
formicae said:
Doesn't there need to be some iron in there?
Hedgehog's drawing pin solution is pretty clever. Could you tell me whereabouts in the case 'tray' you placed them? Save me a bunch of trial and error by giving me a starting point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Iron no, metal yes. Actually any conductive material would work.
As far as location goes, try about 3/4 inch up and 1.5 in from the bottom right corner when held in landscape orientation with the USB port to the right and power switch and volume up.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
bsoplinger said:
Iron no, metal yes. Actually any conductive material would work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Conductors that are neither ferromagnetic nor paramagnetic have no effect on static magnetic fields... other than changing the distance involved which will reduce the field stregth; otoh a thick hunk of paper or plastic would do the same thing. Excellent conductors (gold, silver, platinum) can effect rapidly changing magnetic fields due to induced eddy currents, but that doesn't apply here.
But don't take my word for it - take two small permanent magnets and some aluminum foil, and see if the Al foil changes how they attract each other any differently than paper of the same thickness.
The poster that used thumbtack heads succeeded either because the additional thickness decreased the mag field below the switch latch threshold, or more likely the tack heads had some iron in them. (Probably not nickel, manganese or other exotics)
A thin shim of Mu-Metal would work, or something ferrous would work too - possibly a shim of anything sufficiently thick would also do the trick.
cheers