I used to have a IcePack collar for my dogs neck. It may fit perfectly around the removable plastic visor and they also come in all sizes.
If you have one check it out and report back.
http://www.shop.fillmewithice.com/Small-Black-KoolCollar-w-KoolTube-KC1201USA.htm
**Not to be used with ICE only used the Freezer tubes**
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http://youtu.be/tdfOdqUCKBA
No lens fogging? Doesn't this add a lot of weight?
mitchellvii said:
No lens fogging? Doesn't this add a lot of weight?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the black one would fit perfectly between the space of the the phone and the removable visor.
The black one is very light. I don't have it any more because my dog pushed it off somewhere.
Not sure about fogging, its very light.
If I can find mine, I will wrap it inside of the removable visor and snap it in place and test.
ciscostud said:
I think the black one would fit perfectly between the space of the the phone and the removable visor.
The black one is very light. I don't have it any more because my dog pushed it off somewhere.
Not sure about fogging, its very light.
If I can find mine, I will wrap it inside of the removable visor and snap it in place and test.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool. I mention fogging because this will make the headset colder than your face which is what causes fogging.
ciscostud said:
I think the black one would fit perfectly between the space of the the phone and the removable visor.
The black one is very light. I don't have it any more because my dog pushed it off somewhere.
Not sure about fogging, its very light.
If I can find mine, I will wrap it inside of the removable visor and snap it in place and test.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wanted to wait to say anything until I could see the photos (weren't working on mobile), but I think that could work pretty well. The only thing you may want to do is put some sort of cloth piece over the camera lens to prevent what looks like may be a rough material scratching it. I doubt there would be any more fog than without it. If anything, reducing the amount of heat will reduce the fog.
If you are having heat issues, there is another alternative that involves having a rooted device. The Gear VR service controls mpdecision, msm thermal, and interactive (governor) when using the headset. The problem appears to be some of the modifications and special permissions for the Gear VR are counterproductive. Using a custom kernel with a governor that resembles interactive, but isn't controlled by the service, can help improve performance without excess heat or battery loss. Switching to an alternate GPU / thermal configuration tends to cure the heat.
With my own custom kernel, governor, and intellithermal (faux123), I get a bit warm during use but never get any warnings or heat that is anything more than what you would experience using GPS while plugged into a car charger.
If you want to try it out, AEL kernel has all the same stuff and there are configurations listed in the main 910F thread.
twistedumbrella said:
I wanted to wait to say anything until I could see the photos (weren't working on mobile), but I think that could work pretty well. The only thing you may want to do is put some sort of cloth piece over the camera lens to prevent what looks like may be a rough material scratching it. I doubt there would be any more fog than without it. If anything, reducing the amount of heat will reduce the fog.
If you are having heat issues, there is another alternative that involves having a rooted device. The Gear VR service controls mpdecision, msm thermal, and interactive (governor) when using the headset. The problem appears to be some of the modifications and special permissions for the Gear VR are counterproductive. Using a custom kernel with a governor that resembles interactive, but isn't controlled by the service, can help improve performance without excess heat or battery loss. Switching to an alternate GPU / thermal configuration tends to cure the heat.
With my own custom kernel, governor, and intellithermal (faux123), I get a bit warm during use but never get any warnings or heat that is anything more than what you would experience using GPS while plugged into a car charger.
If you want to try it out, AEL kernel has all the same stuff and there are configurations listed in the main 910F thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What specific clock settings are you using?
Hey man, was trying some different things and came up with a $5 homemade version of what you suggested here. I created a thread about it because I was testing more ideas than just this. Lol, the other ideas failed. Anyway, here's a pic of my homemade chillpac.
I just tried this, and it does seem to work. I'm currently using AEL Kernel 7.2 with the following settings below, I played for over a hour, which I could never do before, played herobound, finished Vanguard and got really into Proton Pulse that game is fun. I'm still playing around with the settings and I think the only setting that might really be helping is enabling the Intelli Thermal control.
Download Snapse from the market and I used the following settings:
HARD Limit, CPU- All default
Governor- Umberella_core
Thermal- Intelli Thermal Control- Enabled, I left everything below in this tab as default
GPU- Enabled Simple gpu algorithm and changed the Ramp up Threshold from 5000 to 4000, everything else default
MEMORY- Internal device storage read ahead- 1024KB, internal storage scheduler- sio
BATTERY- Enabled with CUSTOM Levels, left the rest as default
All the other configuration tabs- I didn't touch
Note: I also had airplane mode on, comfort level enabled , do not disturb- enabled, and brightness set to 3.
cerchiara said:
I just tried this, and it does seem to work. I'm currently using AEL Kernel 7.2 with the following settings below, I played for over a hour, which I could never do before, played herobound, finished Vanguard and got really into Proton Pulse that game is fun. I'm still playing around with the settings and I think the only setting that might really be helping is enabling the Intelli Thermal control.
Download Snapse from the market and I used the following settings:
HARD Limit, CPU- All default
Governor- Umberella_core
Thermal- Intelli Thermal Control- Enabled, I left everything below in this tab as default
GPU- Enabled Simple gpu algorithm and changed the Ramp up Threshold from 5000 to 4000, everything else default
MEMORY- Internal device storage read ahead- 1024KB, internal storage scheduler- sio
BATTERY- Enabled with CUSTOM Levels, left the rest as default
All the other configuration tabs- I didn't touch
Note: I also had airplane mode on, comfort level enabled , do not disturb- enabled, and brightness set to 3.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried all that before as well. For me had no effect on overheating.
mitchellvii said:
I tried all that before as well. For me had no effect on overheating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Strange I guess YMMV, not sure if it helps but I'm using firekat v10, with the optimal settings suggested by firekat such as gpu rendering disabled from dev mode and DVFS disabled from WANAM. Not sure if that helps, as you might already have these optimal settings as well. I know for sure in the past I couldn't finish Vanguard or Herobound without getting the overheat message.
cerchiara said:
Strange I guess YMMV, not sure if it helps but I'm using firekat v10, with the optimal settings suggested by firekat such as gpu rendering disabled from dev mode and DVFS disabled from WANAM. Not sure if that helps, as you might already have these optimal settings as well. I know for sure in the past I couldn't finish Vanguard or Herobound without getting the overheat message.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the tips. I am seeing some improvement with Firekat and AEL Kernel. Here is the link to the optimizations you mentioned for Firekat http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=56241554&postcount=2. Now that AEL is discontinued what are you using?
AEL Is not discontinued its just not on xda. Goto echoroms website
sfsilicon said:
Thanks for the tips. I am seeing some improvement with Firekat and AEL Kernel. LooHere is the link to the optimizations you mentioned for Firekat http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=56241554&postcount=2. Now that AEL is discontinued what are you using?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im still on AEL Kernel using the final build which is 7.2 I believe. Not sure Id want to switch until someone reports a different kernel with better results to use with Gear VR.
Related
Alright, so this is actual a tablet install I had done previously with a Huawei S7 tablet a year and a half ago. It's gone through a few stages from 'eh, it works but it's ugly' to 'well that looks alright', and after I got an additional N7 to install, I think it's about read to share (But it's not 100% done)
The clock in my WRX was dead, and I really loved the torque app, so previously I cut an extra clock pod to hold a tablet, running power from the cig lighter below. It got horrible battery time, and the screen was dull, but it worked. Hooray for 2.2 tablet crapiness.
Now, I have a metal frame secured to the AC vents below the pod, with med. gauge wire securing it to the tubes running below it since the vents would flex when the actuator moved the tablet.
The tablet raises via a switch on my center console. I have a Pulse Width Modulation generator in the clock pod area, which generates a signal to an actuator based on the resistance between 2 pins. With 2 resistors wired in parallel (2 pots actually) and a switch at one of the resistors, I can change the resistance and have 2 adjustable points the actuator raises to. This allows me to raise the tablet by clicking a button.
The power is tied into the clock pod via a 12v to 5v 3A switching converter. This allows switched power to the actuators, tablet, and an auxiliary port I have in my center console, as well as give plenty of juice. The N7 is set so it turns on when there is power to it, and shuts off when it has been sitting idle for a few hours.
I still need to cut my old clock pod to cover the gaps along the edges, and use cloth underneath the tablet and on the back so that the wires are hidden, and it's not readily apparent I have a tablet in the car (one of my goals was not to have to hide it to keep from getting stolen).
I still don't have my appropriate right angle USB cable, which is why I am using just a standard cable in the photo. A right angle will be hidden in the sides, so it won't be visable unlike the cable I have now. I also plan to imbed a magnet so I can utilize the N7's automatic sleeping when it's laying down flat.
Bear in mind I do NOT want the tablet to play music. It's there for the torque app and navigation.
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Pics here:
http://imgur.com/Nk2MV0H,KN4fUju#1
AWESOME!! I also have a WRX (03) and was thinking of doing nearly the exact same thing only with an old smartphone (droid incredible), mainly because I didn't think a 7 inch tablet would fit in there. I'd love to hear more about all the parts you used and how/where you mounted them exactly. I am especially interested in the actuator you used.
I looked a little bit but didn't find anything I thought would package well or was affordable enough. I had finally settled on trying to use a pneumatic actuator that would pull vacuum from the engine with a check valve (for when under boost) to raise the screen when the car starts, and a solenoid system that would bleed the vacuum off when the car shuts off to lower the screen. I can't be sure that the vacuum of the engine would be enough to pull the actuator though, so I kind of tabled the idea.
One idea I saw somewhere that you might be interested in was someone used the app Tasker to turn on and off the tablet when the car was switched on and off. This eliminates having the tablet wait for hours before switching off. You could also set it to turn airplane mode on after a set amount of time to save battery as well I'd imagine.
IMO this is much better than replacing my head unit and trying to get everything to work, with this I can stream music and navigation prompts via the head unit's bluetooth and still have my phone connected for calls through the handsfree setup. Thanks for the inspiration, I'm very likely going this route now!
NemesisXV6800 said:
AWESOME!! I also have a WRX (03) and was thinking of doing nearly the exact same thing only with an old smartphone (droid incredible), mainly because I didn't think a 7 inch tablet would fit in there. I'd love to hear more about all the parts you used and how/where you mounted them exactly. I am especially interested in the actuator you used.
I looked a little bit but didn't find anything I thought would package well or was affordable enough. I had finally settled on trying to use a pneumatic actuator that would pull vacuum from the engine with a check valve (for when under boost) to raise the screen when the car starts, and a solenoid system that would bleed the vacuum off when the car shuts off to lower the screen. I can't be sure that the vacuum of the engine would be enough to pull the actuator though, so I kind of tabled the idea.
One idea I saw somewhere that you might be interested in was someone used the app Tasker to turn on and off the tablet when the car was switched on and off. This eliminates having the tablet wait for hours before switching off. You could also set it to turn airplane mode on after a set amount of time to save battery as well I'd imagine.
IMO this is much better than replacing my head unit and trying to get everything to work, with this I can stream music and navigation prompts via the head unit's bluetooth and still have my phone connected for calls through the handsfree setup. Thanks for the inspiration, I'm very likely going this route now!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The actuator I used is a Firgelli.
http://www.robotshop.com/firgelli-technologies-L12-100-210-06-P.html
I puttered around with servos for a while before deciding I was already committed with my time and spent the money for a good actuator. If you look on RC websites you can usually snag one for about 50-60 used. Because of the placement of the actuator, I needed somewhere around 6lbs of force static. I couldn't find a servo capable of it; so I got the low geared actuator which actually provides some decent speed to lift it.
I then used this to control it using the method described in my post.
http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/rcelkits/sckit/
The frame and everything else was handmade (Hence it still needing some tightening up on being level, mainly because the vent is a curved surface). Mounting to the AC vent is a pain, but the only route if you go this way. I ran heavy wires from the mounting point on the vent to the tube running underneath them to keep the vents from flexing when the actuator moves. The only thing worth noting is that temperature slightly changes the resistance and sometimes it will vary by a few degrees at the top of the rotation if it's cold out. Not a huge deal.
The tablet sleeps most the time, and will automatically either wake up or start up when the car starts. It can sleep all night and not even lost 1% on the battery
Good luck!
Interesting about mounting to the vent, I was going to try to mount to the steel tube underneath there that holds the dash (using a clamp), but maybe there just isn't enough access to it to do that. I am going to fire up Solidworks later tonight and hopefully get started on a mount/tilt system that I thought up yesterday. I found a .stl file of the tablet to start with, but modeling up the dash isn't going to be extremely straightforward. Please keep us updated, I'd love to watch your progress. Thanks for the inspiration..
NemesisXV6800 said:
Interesting about mounting to the vent, I was going to try to mount to the steel tube underneath there that holds the dash (using a clamp), but maybe there just isn't enough access to it to do that. I am going to fire up Solidworks later tonight and hopefully get started on a mount/tilt system that I thought up yesterday. I found a .stl file of the tablet to start with, but modeling up the dash isn't going to be extremely straightforward. Please keep us updated, I'd love to watch your progress. Thanks for the inspiration..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There isn't a lot of room at all; I originally wanted to mount to something more secure but it's tight in there; the actuator itself is maybe .5" X .5" and it was tight getting it to mount to the tube underneath. I had to remove the glove box, and use a pipe clamp to finally get it secured.
So I just want to give a little status update with proof of what we have going so far. I am still trying to work out the bugs but I have managed to get root and TWRP on the Lg G Watch R (lenok) using much of the same files from Dory the original g watch because almost all the hardware is the same. All I had to do was open their recovery file and throw in our zImage and it booted, and I was actually quite surprised bahaha. And once we have TWRP we can flash anything we want, such as the SuperSU package from Chainfire which enables root for us. But because this is wear most of the rootey things will just allow us to access system files such as say the vibration motor. And I can tell the vibrataion motor on this device is weaker than it is capable of doing because on TWRP the thing's vibration was SUPER strong.
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subscribed - looks promising, well done
My next step will be to find a good vibration boost setting and implement it. I can tell it has a very capable vibration motor and can match the Pebble in strength and duration.
Great work! Looking forward to seeing what develops.
tonu42 said:
So I just want to give a little status update with proof of what we have going so far. I am still trying to work out the bugs but I have managed to get root and TWRP on the Lg G Watch R (lenok) using much of the same files from Dory the original g watch because almost all the hardware is the same. All I had to do was open their recovery file and throw in our zImage and it booted, and I was actually quite surprised bahaha. And once we have TWRP we can flash anything we want, such as the SuperSU package from Chainfire which enables root for us. But because this is wear most of the rootey things will just allow us to access system files such as say the vibration motor. And I can tell the vibrataion motor on this device is weaker than it is capable of doing because on TWRP the thing's vibration was SUPER strong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome work, did you tried to relock your bootloader and was you able to grab a complete dump/backup of the Device befor testing the recovery? Coz there is no factory image yet
bluedragon1982 said:
Awesome work, did you tried to relock your bootloader and was you able to grab a complete dump/backup of the Device befor testing the recovery? Coz there is no factory image yet
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We have stock boot, system and recovery already pulled. That's the bulk of a factory image. I don't plan to relock bootloader so I haven't tested that.
thanks for your work, tonu!
I'v seen that you are investigating various switches and tweaks - I was hoping you could look into the power-saving settings, maybe there is a way to solve the 2 minute bug
2k4ever said:
thanks for your work, tonu!
I'v seen that you are investigating various switches and tweaks - I was hoping you could look into the power-saving settings, maybe there is a way to solve the 2 minute bug
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought the two minute "bug" was a feature to save battery and avoid screen burn. I will look into it but I think it lies in frameworks and I dont wanna go messing with them.
Maybe wear lollipop will change it.
tonu42 said:
I thought the two minute "bug" was a feature to save battery and avoid screen burn. I will look into it but I think it lies in frameworks and I dont wanna go messing with them.
Maybe wear lollipop will change it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It maybe save battery - but a watch that purposefully displays a wrong time I wouldn't call a feature - and if it is at least let me turn it off @google
and it actually should make burn-in worse as the same image is displayed for a longer time
finally, from what I've read, the other AW watches don't have this "feature"
I wouldn't ask you to mess with the frameworks, but maybe the problem arises from a wrongly set power-saving switch or somthing
And yes, I'm hoping that Lollipop will fix it but I wouldn't mind a fix if you are willing and interested to look into it
thanks and good luck!
2k4ever said:
It maybe save battery - but a watch that purposefully displays a wrong time I wouldn't call a feature - and if it is at least let me turn it off @google
and it actually should make burn-in worse as the same image is displayed for a longer time
finally, from what I've read, the other AW watches don't have this "feature"
I wouldn't ask you to mess with the frameworks, but maybe the problem arises from a wrongly set power-saving switch or somthing
And yes, I'm hoping that Lollipop will fix it but I wouldn't mind a fix if you are willing and interested to look into it
thanks and good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've found some things that might point me in the right directions, idk if it will work but you can try to turn off ambient burn in protection all together, while I really do not recommend this on an led display it might fix it. I would estimate after a year or so the burn in would be pretty visible and might affect colors.
tonu42 said:
I've found some things that might point me in the right directions, idk if it will work but you can try to turn off ambient burn in protection all together, while I really do not recommend this on an led display it might fix it. I would estimate after a year or so the burn in would be pretty visible and might affect colors.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks, but I really wouldn't recommend doing that
besides, from what I can tell, the burn-in protection isn't the problem, as the watch face shifts around as it should, so the screen is redrawn, but the time is not updated simultaneously
2k4ever said:
thanks, but I really wouldn't recommend doing that
besides, from what I can tell, the burn-in protection isn't the problem, as the watch face shifts around as it should, so the screen is redrawn, but the time is not updated simultaneously
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thinking about it its a really weird issue. The system knows the correct time because the ambient protection uses the current system time as a sort of random number generator, it takes the system time in milliseconds divides by 60000 and uses that as a variable to shift the screen. Now on the shift I dont know why they didnt make it change the drawn time..... too weird.
tonu42 said:
Thinking about it its a really weird issue. The system knows the correct time because the ambient protection uses the current system time as a sort of random number generator, it takes the system time in milliseconds divides by 60000 and uses that as a variable to shift the screen. Now on the shift I dont know why they didnt make it change the drawn time..... too weird.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
simple: its a bug
one reason could be that the cpu gets throttled so much that the update doesn't get out
I'v noticed that sometimes the minute hand jumps two minutes, first one and than a second later the hand moves again
and to me it seems to build up: if not activated for extended periods, the time seems to fall further and further behind
Our watch has some extensive power-saving features - at least LG claims that power consumption falls to 10% when in always on mode
I suspect that that's too much, as the other AW watches don't seem to have this problem
@tonu42 hey mate! was randomly checking your tread and saw that you have the twrp gui offcenterd issue like the moto360 tread witch im currently fixing.
i quickly realize that theme should work on both the moto360 and LG G Watch R! So once if i get fix, both should benefit from it!
Moto360 TWRP tread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/moto-360/development/unofficial-twrp-2-8-1-0-moto-360-t2966750
More info what is currently fix and Need to be fixed (including pictures) : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=57573277&postcount=48
Fell free to add me on G+
mkaymuzik said:
@tonu42 hey mate! was randomly checking your tread and saw that you have the twrp gui offcenterd issue like the moto360 tread witch im currently fixing.
i quickly realize that theme should work on both the moto360 and LG G Watch R! So once if i get fix, both should benefit from it!
Moto360 TWRP tread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/moto-360/development/unofficial-twrp-2-8-1-0-moto-360-t2966750
More info what is currently fix and Need to be fixed (including pictures) : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=57573277&postcount=48
Fell free to add me on G+
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds good, I could figure out how to make it look nice on device but I just don't have the time. Full time student and work almost full time, not enough time in the day. Hopefully over the next week I plan to pump some other stuff out related the GWR.
tonu42 said:
Sounds good, I could figure out how to make it look nice on device but I just don't have the time. Full time student and work almost full time, not enough time in the day. Hopefully over the next week I plan to pump some other stuff out related the GWR.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no worry man and nice to meet you by the way. im also im the same position ish but do have time but dont have job atm.
I don't know exactly what happened, but I think burn-in protection is NOT working on LCA44B. Since yesterday I've had Instaweather faces burn into my watch, and the Red face, which I've used intermittently for 9 months, has now burned into my screen in less than 12 hours of use. Screen brightness is less than 1, something is seriously messed up in the latest firmware. Anyone else experiencing this?
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Display is shifting, turns out LG is absolutely stupid, so know that THE RED WATCH FACE WILL BURN IN TO YOUR SCREEN. They added massive grey circles to the date and month icons, which burn in. Every tick mark now burns in as well. I have never experienced any issues with burn in over the 10 months I've owned it, and now it's been burned in twice in 2 days. Something is amiss with the latest update, so definitely monitor your watch for signs of burn in.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
I've been experiencing burn in even with the previous update
I've experienced burn with all my watch faces on this update, and have had issues with burn in ever since flashing the custom kernel to gain WiFI, with the issues persisting even after the burn in was fixed. Sometimes however I do notice the face moving as expected, so I am not sure what is causing the problem overall. If anybody has any ideas as to solutions to this, I'm sure a fair few people would be glad to hear them, as it isn't much fun seeing the hour icons when you're say in the settings menu.
Thanks,
x10man
I highly doubt this has something to do with the latest update.
1. I've had the red face burn into my watch before lollipop was on my watch even, just because the hour marks are too big to be properly shifted in ambient mode
2. I've observed my current watch face (FORM) and it seems to shift just normally
Do you guys happen to have Developer Options enabled? I tried enabling it today and just noticed that the option Force Burn-in Protection was disabled by default.
I don't know whether it was because of that option, the newest update, or just the fact that reading over this thread made me inspect my watch more carefully, but I now notice some burn in on my watch for the first time. It is quite apparent when the notification shade is pulled down.
My watch face also has very thin graphics and I even put a black transparent overlay on my watch face to make it even darker in ambient mode.
Edit: seems the burn-ins are only a temporary (at least for me). Left the screen off for a while and its good again.
I have developer options enabled, and enabling force protection disables again after a reboot. Burn ins are temporary for me too, but I'd still rather they didn't have them at all. I don't just experience burn in on the analogue faces such as red, I currently have a "9" burn onto my watch from 25 minutes of the "together" face and watches with very thin lines such as F04 for Round Wear also burn in, after very short periods of time. It is easy to get these to go again, however I'd prefer the burn in protection to work properly. I never had these issues on 5.0, they've only started since 5.1 for me, although I am not sure if that was 5.1 overall, or 5.1 after the custom kernel flash.
Thanks,
X10man
Forcing the burnin protection has no effect if you did not messed up the default burn-in protection files. The face will still shift no matter how the switch is being set.
If you will force the burnin protection settings file to not shift, then this switch will override that.
I have no burnin at all and I have the watch for almost a year now.
I don't have any problems with burn-in after update (or before). And I'm using Odyssey watchface red + disabled minimal ambient mode so according to everything I read here I should have huge burn-in. I have this watch over 6 months, 0 problems
this is how it looks also in ambient mode ( i have red color)
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timon12 said:
I don't have any problems with burn-in after update (or before). And I'm using Odyssey watchface red + disabled minimal ambient mode so according to everything I read here I should have huge burn-in. I have this watch over 6 months, 0 problems
this is how it looks also in ambient mode ( i have red color)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you rooted etc? I'm wondering if any of the non-stock portions of my watch are causing this. I have TWRP installed, and my bootloader unlocked. It doesn't seem to make sense that some people have it and some do not, on the same watch faces et cetera. I'm not rooted, and have the stock ROM and kernel installed.
Thanks,
X10man
EDIT: I have reflashed an entirely stock system, performed a factory reset and locked my bootloader, and I can verify my watch face is now moving. I will update further in regards to whether burn in is still an issue, or if this was a fix for me
I'm full stock, never rooted or anything and I have some burn in
x10man said:
Are you rooted etc? I'm wondering if any of the non-stock portions of my watch are causing this. I have TWRP installed, and my bootloader unlocked. It doesn't seem to make sense that some people have it and some do not, on the same watch faces et cetera. I'm not rooted, and have the stock ROM and kernel installed.
Thanks,
X10man
EDIT: I have reflashed an entirely stock system, performed a factory reset and locked my bootloader, and I can verify my watch face is now moving. I will update further in regards to whether burn in is still an issue, or if this was a fix for me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now I'm on stock rom, kernel and recovery, with unlocked bootloader, not rooted. I had Leedroid rom but voice recognition wasn't working that good like on stock (dunno why). Before Leedroid I was on stock without any modifications so IMO software does not affect this burn-in thing. also I'm using 6 brightness all the time + screen always on
timon12 said:
I'm using 6 brightness all the time
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This is the perfect recipe for a nice burn-in. Of course it all depends on the colours used and the thickness of the lines involved ... but in general, max brightness on an OLED display means burn-in and shorter life.
// sent from my phone //
again, no burn in after many months I'm still using 6 brightness + screen always on.
timon12 said:
again, no burn in after many months I'm still using 6 brightness + screen always on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No burn in here either, had the same face for over 4 months at 3+ brightness and always screen on.
Soo I have a faulty battery on my Z3c and I do not have the time or money to replace it right now,and I would love to have a phone which wouldn't overheat and thermal throttle after watching a YouTube video and opening Snapchat.
As well because the battery overheated the back glass's adhesive has weakened and the glass unsticked so I use the phone with the battery exposed which actually did help a bit.
I do get better results when using "conservative" governor and at least trying to set the clock to 1500MHz(it maxes at 1500MHz for some time and then starts peaking at 2400MHz again). I also tried undervolting,didn't notice a difference unfortunately.
So now,what can I do to cool down the battery,because it is starting to get very very annoying. Maybe putting some aluminum plate over the battery(maybe a dumb suggestion,don't really know) or something like that? Thanks to anyone who helps in advance.
Mpdecision becoming re-enabled causes frequency's not to stick. I found using init.d to set kernel CPU settings and having Kernel Adiutor apply as normal again prevents issues.
See the last photo of my battery mod gallery for a thermal mod https://imgur.com/a/8Ceha. It still heats up, though taking longer to and a little less. You could also apply new CPU thermal paste, it wears out with age. Of two devices I've opened up one had no paste.
A metal back will dissipate heat better but will probably affect wireless signal. An interesting observation I've noticed is with the battery separated outside of the device the CPU tends to run a little hotter. As poor design as having a battery attached to the opposite side of a CPU acting as a heatsink is, it still does dissipate heat over more surface than without. More so I think with the battery removed there's not enough pressure against the back of the board to push the thermal contact flush with the front display body. With the back panel removed there's not enough pressure. With the air gap separation mod the extra ~1mm lets an external case create some pressure, getting better results than with an original glass back and hard plastic back case on top.
I never really ran my phone case-less so can't report differences there. However it should be noted that glass is an insulator and isn't good for dissipating heat.
Infy_AsiX said:
Mpdecision becoming re-enabled causes frequency's not to stick. I found using init.d to set kernel CPU settings and having Kernel Adiutor apply as normal again prevents issues.
See the last photo of my battery mod gallery for a thermal mod https://imgur.com/a/8Ceha. It still heats up, though taking longer to and a little less. You could also apply new CPU thermal paste, it wears out with age. Of two devices I've opened up one had no paste.
A metal back will dissipate heat better but will probably affect wireless signal. An interesting observation I've noticed is with the battery separated outside of the device the CPU tends to run a little hotter. As poor design as having a battery attached to the opposite side of a CPU acting as a heatsink is, it still does dissipate heat over more surface than without. More so I think with the battery removed there's not enough pressure against the back of the board to push the thermal contact flush with the front display body. With the back panel removed there's not enough pressure. With the air gap separation mod the extra ~1mm lets an external case create some pressure, getting better results than with an original glass back and hard plastic back case on top.
I never really ran my phone case-less so can't report differences there. However it should be noted that glass is an insulator and isn't good for dissipating heat.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Soo first the Mpdesicion thing,I have installed a new kernel which removes Mpdesicion and puts Intellithermal instead,I don't know if that affects anything with clock changes but we'll see. I am gonna switch to Oreo soon so we'll see how it is there.
Second,I will take the phone apart definitely when I get some time to do so. And for the third thing,no I am not really into modding cases and the insides of the phone and similar so I will be probably avoiding that.
Thanks for the help though.
Dinkec27 said:
Soo first the Mpdesicion thing,I have installed a new kernel which removes Mpdesicion and puts Intellithermal instead,I don't know if that affects anything with clock changes but we'll see. I am gonna switch to Oreo soon so we'll see how it is there.
Second,I will take the phone apart definitely when I get some time to do so. And for the third thing,no I am not really into modding cases and the insides of the phone and similar so I will be probably avoiding that.
Thanks for the help though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Intellithermal is for thermal throttling. A hotplugging replacement for Mpdecision is something else.
So nothing is covering the battery? Be careful not to puncture it. A case doesn't require modding but I think some thickness is required to create pressure. In other words I think the back panel without a case is better than no back panel with just a case and no pressure modification.
Infy_AsiX said:
Intellithermal is for thermal throttling. A hotplugging replacement for Mpdecision is something else.
So nothing is covering the battery? Be careful not to puncture it. A case doesn't require modding but I think some thickness is required to create pressure. In other words I think the back panel without a case is better than no back panel with just a case and no pressure modification.
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Click to collapse
Okay I will try something today or tomorrow.
As for the Mpdecision,I turned it off and my clock still peaks at 2500MHz. You mentioned something with init.d.
Could you tell me what to do?
Dinkec27 said:
Okay I will try something today or tomorrow.
As for the Mpdecision,I turned it off and my clock still peaks at 2500MHz. You mentioned something with init.d.
Could you tell me what to do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your ROM needs to have init.d support. If it does there should be a folder in /system/etc/init.d/. This used to be easier to add on MM stock. Since N AOSP it seems to be disabled. I've got it working via a workaround on Magisk, it's not straightforward.
Maybe try enabling shell script to apply settings in Kernel Adiutor settings first. If that fails maybe search and ask to see how anyone else gets edited frequencies to stick in your kernel thread. If you still can't get a fix i'll recommend my ideas.
Infy_AsiX said:
Your ROM needs to have init.d support. If it does there should be a folder in /system/etc/init.d/. This used to be easier to add on MM stock. Since N AOSP it seems to be disabled. I've got it working via a workaround on Magisk, it's not straightforward.
Maybe try enabling shell script to apply settings in Kernel Adiutor settings first. If that fails maybe search and ask to see how anyone else gets edited frequencies to stick in your kernel thread. If you still can't get a fix i'll recommend my ideas.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I did most of what you said,so first with Oreo it is actually much better with battery and heat management,but how do you now fix the volume down button when you tried to make the buttons go to place for 1 hour?
Dinkec27 said:
So I did most of what you said,so first with Oreo it is actually much better with battery and heat management,but how do you now fix the volume down button when you tried to make the buttons go to place for 1 hour?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So what have you done? Useful to know what's worked for you. Or do you mean Oreo is cooler by itself?
Do you mean your volume button is stuck? It shouldn't be. Check inside if it's aligned and properly placed. If you had removed the board try reinstalling it again taking care with button alignment.
Sent from my Z3 Compact using XDA Labs
Infy_AsiX said:
So what have you done? Useful to know what's worked for you. Or do you mean Oreo is cooler by itself?
Do you mean your volume button is stuck? It shouldn't be. Check inside if it's aligned and properly placed. If you had removed the board try reinstalling it again taking care with button alignment.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nah button alignment is completely fine it just isn't registiring a key press,maybe I have damaged the flex cable or the board.
And what I have done is apply thermal paste,leave 1mm between the motherboard and the battery so it has some air to breathe and Oreo seems to be cooler itself.
You must disable Thermal Core Control for your settings to be applied, can do it with Kernel Adiutor
Well I managed to get a new battery and with new settings that I set on Oreo there is almost no heat sooo yeah,this thread can be closed.
Anyone else here experiencing screen dimming issues when playing intensive games like COD or LOL at 90% to max brightness? It dims and lowers down the brightness and you can't fix it but just the brightness slider. It's annoying that I have to restart the game to fix it. It's even annoying since I can't restart it when in the middle of a game. Any solutions there?
- I've tried to on/off auto brightness
- I've tried checking the settings in game turbo, nothing there
- tried tweaking the performance /battery settings and whatnot, issue is still there
- restart the phone but issue persists
- I even tried to factory reset
iamreason7 said:
Anyone else here experiencing screen dimming issues when playing intensive games like COD or LOL at 90% to max brightness? It dims and lowers down the brightness and you can't fix it but just the brightness slider. It's annoying that I have to restart the game to fix it. It's even annoying since I can't restart it when in the middle of a game. Any solutions there?
- I've tried to on/off auto brightness
- I've tried checking the settings in game turbo, nothing there
- tried tweaking the performance /battery settings and whatnot, issue is still there
- restart the phone but issue persists
- I even tried to factory reset
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems to be by default that the screen will dim a bit when the device heats up, similar to iOS behavior.
sushuguru said:
It seems to be by default that the screen will dim a bit when the device heats up, similar to iOS behavior.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's so annoying
Hi, sorry for bumping but I suppose that's better than starting a new thread.
So I picked up the Mi 11 Ultra yesterday and it behaves the same. I was starting to worry mine was defective, so it safe to say it is completely normal?
Sucks though, I'd expect Xiaomi not to cheap out on cooling especially for the Ultra. AFAIK the 888 is not the hottest SoC.
For a Xiaomi? I'd say yes, it's typical. I've tried using other high phones with same chip or higher (Samsung S22 Ultra for example) and it didn't have the issue so... I've tried looking but I can't seem to find a (software) solution. On the other hand (hardware) , some "coolers/fans" do help. the best solution I've got is this . Just slap it at the back of your phone and et voila! Problem fixed.
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iamreason7 said:
For a Xiaomi? I'd say yes, it's typical. I've tried using other high phones with same chip or higher (Samsung S22 Ultra for example) and it didn't have the issue so... I've tried looking but I can't seem to find a (software) solution. On the other hand (hardware) , some "coolers/fans" do help. the best solution I've got is this . Just slap it at the back of your phone and et voila! Problem fixed.
View attachment 5700295
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Click to collapse
Lol at Koolfever. Serious about that one?
My phone also scores suspiciously low in single-core in Geekbench 5 at 851, though it does score slightly higher than normal in multi-core - 3317. Running the benches on an idle phone.
youngniggapreach said:
Lol at Koolfever. Serious about that one?
My phone also scores suspiciously low in single-core in Geekbench 5 at 851, though it does score slightly higher than normal in multi-core - 3317. Running the benches on an idle phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In case try to do the test with the battery charged at 100%..
Some references.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/can-you-share-your-experience-with-this-phone.4406387/
Thanks, will give it a look. The bare idea of using an external cooler with a phone is ridiculous, unless you are gaming I suppose. After doing some more reading it seems the whole SD888 and 870 Mi 11 series is plagues by heat issues. Not sure if I would reconsider if I knew about it though, seems like a great deal at 650$. Mi 12 Pro was available for roughly the same price though...
youngniggapreach said:
Thanks, will give it a look. The bare idea of using an external cooler with a phone is ridiculous, unless you are gaming I suppose. After doing some more reading it seems the whole SD888 and 870 Mi 11 series is plagues by heat issues. Not sure if I would reconsider if I knew about it though, seems like a great deal at 650$. Mi 12 Pro was available for roughly the same price though...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree it's like moving to the north pole.
This is the course I followed 11t pro->12 pro.
In the meantime I've discovered this - https://www.notebookcheck.net/Xiaom...ng-Galaxy-S22-and-Galaxy-Tab-S8.610441.0.html
youngniggapreach said:
Lol at Koolfever. Serious about that one?
My phone also scores suspiciously low in single-core in Geekbench 5 at 851, though it does score slightly higher than normal in multi-core - 3317. Running the benches on an idle phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I'm serious. Though I'm only doing that while gaming where the phone gets really hot. That's when I notice the phone suddenly dims itself so using external coolers helps prevent the thermal throttling which then prevents the dimming issue and (really really seriously) Koolfever is the best I've got.
iamreason7 said:
Anyone else here experiencing screen dimming issues when playing intensive games like COD or LOL at 90% to max brightness? It dims and lowers down the brightness and you can't fix it but just the brightness slider. It's annoying that I have to restart the game to fix it. It's even annoying since I can't restart it when in the middle of a game. Any solutions there?
- I've tried to on/off auto brightness
- I've tried checking the settings in game turbo, nothing there
- tried tweaking the performance /battery settings and whatnot, issue is still there
- restart the phone but issue persists
- I even tried to factory reset
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To fix this, you just need to get Franco kernel manager. apply the settings in the picture ok everything will be fine
metink4n13 said:
To fix this, you just need to get Franco kernel manager. apply the settings in the picture ok everything will be fineView attachment 5914147
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
but this requires rooting my phone. I really wish manufacturers add a manual override instead but thanks for the idea anyway. I'm now using an S23 Ultra and it still does that dimming thing. so....... I'll just avoid playing under the sun XD.