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Kaiser charge problem when using GPRS

I'm having problems with kaiser charging when using HSDPA and even slow connections like 3G and EDGE.
Problem is that it charges for about 20-30 minutes (connected to a powered 1Amp USB hub or even with AC charger), then charging light goes off and battery power starts to drop by about 5% every 20-30 minutes.
Have anyone tried 2Amp chargers? It seems like it may be the problem with kaiser itself, since it charges itself but then just stops and will not charge itself until I soft-reset it.
PS: it gets kinda warm, but I wouldn't call it hot. Dunno if its related to temperature.
Any ideas?

Am I the only one with this problem? If so, maybe I should return the phone and exchange it for a working unit?

No, I have the same problem here.
When I use my kaiser in the car (usually navigating) the orange charge light initially lights up, but after a short period goes out. When I disconect and connect the USB-cable, the light temporarily comes on again.
I am using a 1A car charger. I do notice the charger feels a bit hot when in use, so maybe the kaiser is drawing more power than allowed? I can imagine the charger overheating which causes the voltage to drop. Which probably causes the kaiser to stop using USB power. But this is all speculation.
I am planning to use a 5A voltage regulator to 'upgrade' the USB charger, and see if this solves the problem.
--After a bit more reading, I found some info about the kaiser detecting if it is connected to a charger or a USB host device, and regulating it's maximum charge power accordingly. So I will try a modified USB cable to let the kaiser know it can get 1000mA from the car charger.

It's not the USB charger. I have 2A and 3A Olympus Camera chargers that I modified to use as a USB charger. Also cheaper 1A AC chargers. I thought the Olympus chargers would be perfect, because they were high amperage, and built solidly. I had the same charge problems with the TyTn II, and an iPod Nano. They would either charge partially and then stop, or not charge right away, but the charge light would come on after awhile. But still only partially charge.
My guess is that the chargers that work may have a load added in, so that the switching regulator will turn on with any additional load from the device, and stay on. I never found any information on this, though.
What does work: The USB chargers made for any PDA phone. Apple iPod chargers. I bought an 800ma iPod charger (probably a clone). It's a small white cube, with a USB outlet, and interchangeable AC plugs. It charges the Nano, and the TyTn II OK. The Nano last for a week now, instead of 2 days. The TyTn II starts charging right away, and stays charging. So whatever the Apple USB chargers do, they do work.
A thought for the car is to get a car charger made for the iPod, and see if that may work.

To be more accurate, the iPod charger starts charging the TyTn II right away, and the charge light stays lit. I've not actually done a controlled test on it. Just charged for awhile, and verified that the charge light comes on right away, and stays on. Everything looks normal, though. I will try a more controlled test, and post the resutls.

please keep us posted. I've also contaced HTC support about this, I'm waiting the response. Once I found out I will post here.
Hopefully iys not a ksier limitation.

Test results.
Battery at
- 61%, Display off while charging
- 83% - after 70 mins of charging. Then stopped, as was going out.
Started again at:
- 88%, Display off
- 100% - after 60 mins. A little shorter, probably, as I missed when the charge light went green.
I believe the PDA will fast charge up to around 80%, and then slow charge for the remainder. That would explain why it takes 60 mins to charge from 88% to 100%.
So, the iPod charger works great for a PDA, and will start charging right away when it is connected, and it will charge to 100% full charge. It is not the PDA that is stopping the charging. It just has special requirements that only some chargers can handle, so you have to get either a charger built for a PDA, or something like the iPod charger.
So it works quite well as a general purpose charger for iPods, and for the TyTn II, and probably anything that uses a USB charger. It is small, with interchangeable AC plugs. A good travel/general purpose charger. I can bring just this, and different cables for different devices. Phone, MP3, etc.
It is labeled Input:100-240V, Output 5V 1A
Looks like:
Apple MA592LL/A iPod USB Power Adapter
Just as an aside, I have a lithium battery pack 2 7/8" x 2 1/8" x 1/2" thick. It is rated at 2400mAh, input 5V, through a built in retractable USB plug. Output is 5V 450mAh through a female USB plug. Just extend the USB male plug and plug into any USB source to charge it. It works quite well as a small portable battery pack to power/charge a PDA if using GPS steadily. It's flat, and easy to carry.
And it is quite cheap.

ttt123, thanks for your info. I guess I need to get an iPod charger then.

Neat charger for Athena & Jabra headsets

http://www.expansys-usa.com/d.aspx?i=148251
Charges both at same time.

Sweet. I may get one of these.

Do you know how much amps it's delivering? The Athena needs at least 2A to show any sign of being charged!!! I'm suspecting it's only delivering 500mA which is the max amount of amps a Jabra headset can take without frying itself. 500mA is just enough to light up the amber charging light on the Athena and nothing else.

sumtingwong said:
Do you know how much amps it's delivering? The Athena needs at least 2A to show any sign of being charged!!! I'm suspecting it's only delivering 500mA which is the max amount of amps a Jabra headset can take without frying itself. 500mA is just enough to light up the amber charging light on the Athena and nothing else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I always thought that a regular HTC charger provided 1A. Do you use a 2A charger?
According to Expansys and PP Techs this should at least give more than 500mA:
The majority of new devices are equipped with two different charging modes: a sync-n-charge mode through a computer USB port (slow charge) and a regular charge mode through an AC/DC adapter or any other charging accessory (fast charge). Those two charge settings require two completely different pinouts and are not compatible with each other.
In select devices, this incompatibility would mean that a sync-and-charge cable for your device, when connected to an AC/DC adapter or similarcharging accessories, will not be properly configured to charge your device.
Our new Lil Sync® Duo Adapter is the convenient solution to this common charging problem. Using our adapter will forces your Sprint PPC-6700 to use the most effective, “fast-charge” mode when plugged into AC/DC power. Additionally, there is a Jabra 8 pin companion port tailed onto the adapter. This allows you to conveniently charge a second accessory such as a Jabra headset simultaneously.
In some cases, your Sprint PPC-6700 will not charge from an AC/DC adapter or other charging accessory when the battery life is below 30 percent. Our Lil Sync® Duo Adapter will charge your Sprint PPC-6700 from a completely drained battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like an interesting little accessory.

Yes. I am using a 2A charger both at home and in my car. The one I'm using is the TomTom USB Charger for Go/One/OneXL/XL. Attached are the pictures of the car charger. The home charger provides the same amp. If you're in the US, the car charger is sold at Target for $19.99. The car charger is bent at an angle but the home charger is not. If your car doesn't have bluetooth and you have to use the audio jack on your athena, then you'll need a mini USB angle adapter to reposition the cable upward. The mini USB angle adapter comes standard with the old Motorola Razr V3 so if you already have one of those phones, you don't have to buy a new adapter. Otherwise, the Motorola mini USB angle adapter is sold for a few bucks where Motorola phones are sold.

USB charging in car?

Iam using the Dell Streak 7 as a sat nav system in the car. Ive tried to charge it up on the usb car adapter but it seems to loose its charge over time, making the D7 unusable for the purpose of a sat nav. Am i doing something wrong or is there a special usb car adapter for the job?
Thanks, David.

Does it say it's charging when plugged in?
Depending on how powerful your charger is it's likely that it's draining faster then the charger can provide. At best on my s5 it's just barely faster then the charger and the s7 needs more power then that.

Thanks for peply, yes it states it is plugged in. I came to the same conclusion. Wonder if there are any other chargers that have more juice.

diddy64 said:
Thanks for peply, yes it states it is plugged in. I came to the same conclusion. Wonder if there are any other chargers that have more juice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are several that will do the job. Just look for specs that include putting out 5.5 volts and 2 amps. Several of the chargers that are made for the iPad2 will work. And you may want to install a lighter adapter that you can wire directly to the battery that will allow up to 2 or 3 amps from each port

Most standard USB ports do not put out enough power to charge the DS7. The best bet is to use a inverter that plugs into your cigarette lighter and then plug the charger into that, not just the USB cable.
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Inverter-Charger-Portable-SmartPhones/dp/B00144KS6W

I use this setup:
Bestek Adapter
Trans4m lighter adapter
The Bestek I have wired to the battery so I have no fuse problems with lighter, and with that I can charge either my iPad2 or my Streak7, IF I need to charge both, then I plug the Transform adapter into the Bestek and can then charge BOTH devices, the Ipad2 AND the Streak7 and a couple of other things if need be

Thank you guys, this gives me alot of hope. Once again you all get my thanks.
Cheers,
David.

Yea, like they previously stated not all chargers are created equal.
Unless it states it's a tablet/ipad charger you cant assume it's doing 2+ amps. Most phone/lower end ones can only do 500mA/1A.
Realistically you'd prob need at least 2 amps to get a net gain while using gps/anything demanding. But I dont know if it would even try and draw above that if given the chance. [email protected] is what the bundled wall charger does and can accept up to 5.5v (as it's still within the +/-10% tolerence of the usb spec, but just barely)

My fully charged stock S7 WiFi running 514 draws only 45-70mA. Maybe starting fully charged would help?

wptski said:
My fully charged stock S7 WiFi running 514 draws only 45-70mA. Maybe starting fully charged would help?
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I don't know anything about how it works, but I imagine tablets are wired to know when they are receiving the correct amount of input. For instance, if you connect your Streak 7 to a powered USB hub that only puts out 5 volts, it won't charge nor will it charge when connect via usb to the PC, it has to be receiving 5.5 volts and 2 amps before it will let itself receive charge. I have an iPad that is the same way and have noticed all the tablets I have had my hands on are the same, Galaxy Tabs, Transformers, Xoom... all those have to receive higher numbers to charge. So you have to have a cigarrette lighter adapter that puts that out, if it's for a cell phone it won't do anything for it

cdzo72 said:
I don't know anything about how it works, but I imagine tablets are wired to know when they are receiving the correct amount of input. For instance, if you connect your Streak 7 to a powered USB hub that only puts out 5 volts, it won't charge nor will it charge when connect via usb to the PC, it has to be receiving 5.5 volts and 2 amps before it will let itself receive charge. I have an iPad that is the same way and have noticed all the tablets I have had my hands on are the same, Galaxy Tabs, Transformers, Xoom... all those have to receive higher numbers to charge. So you have to have a cigarrette lighter adapter that puts that out, if it's for a cell phone it won't do anything for it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The voltage is constant but current isn't. It won't know how much current is available unless it asks for it. It's like a 2A fuse, you can draw up to 2A, no more.
Even with a fully charged battery it'll show charging at 98% for a short time and that's when I saw the higher 70mA but I'm not sure if it's in the CC or CV part of a Li-Ion charge cycle but I'd guess CV because it's less than 100mA.

My bad thinking measuring AC input current instead of DC current since this thread is about USB power.
Used a cheap ReTrak USB extension cord that loses connections to seperate the wire to measure DC current. My fully charged S7 showing 100% charge still draws 150mA after hours of being plugged in. Since Li-Ion cells normally don't use a constant trickle charge, I "assume" something draws on the battery all the time along with the indicator light and buttons.
Booting up it draws a little over 1A, fully charged while booted up, it draws around 600mA. While charging and powered up, it draws 914mA. Charging while off, it draws 1160mA. Far from 2A.

wptski said:
My bad thinking measuring AC input current instead of DC current since this thread is about USB power.
Used a cheap ReTrak USB extension cord that loses connections to seperate the wire to measure DC current. My fully charged S7 showing 100% charge still draws 150mA after hours of being plugged in. Since Li-Ion cells normally don't use a constant trickle charge, I "assume" something draws on the battery all the time along with the indicator light and buttons.
Booting up it draws a little over 1A, fully charged while booted up, it draws around 600mA. While charging and powered up, it draws 914mA. Charging while off, it draws 1160mA. Far from 2A.
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I understand that, but you are missing the point, if the internal wiring of these tablets don't receive the 2A they want they WILL NOT even begin to charge. I tried literally dozens of chargers when I first got my S7, spent a couple hundred bucks actually, and none of the chargers not meant for larger devices won't work, and what those chargers all had in common, 2A output

The S7 can and will draw off low capacity ports, it just wont admit to charging unless it's at least 1A as it's just that.
I've had my S7 charge off a 500mA port on my pc at the rate of like 1%/hour while sleeping. As it's barely gaining even while idleing it's not really charging in the literal sense, but it's definitely charging in the technical sense.
Are your data lines shorted together? I believe most high draw devices wont attempt to pull 2A unless it detects that it's on a high draw charger (which I think do this to indicate it as such)

cdzo72 said:
I understand that, but you are missing the point, if the internal wiring of these tablets don't receive the 2A they want they WILL NOT even begin to charge. I tried literally dozens of chargers when I first got my S7, spent a couple hundred bucks actually, and none of the chargers not meant for larger devices won't work, and what those chargers all had in common, 2A output
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know why your various chargers didn't work but it doesn't seem to be because of current. It didn't charge at 2A or even close to that.
If what your saying correct, why was I able to charge at less than 2A then? Could this be a ROM issue? I only had Froyo for a few hours but I've read that it didn't support USB charging which came with HC but it only charges with the S7 OFF.
It's possible that the demand went higher and I just didn't see on my current clamp meter. I'll have to try a current clamp and a scope to see if I missed a peak level.
Also what we are refering to as the charger might not be a charger but only a power supply and the actual charging circuit is in the S7.
I did notice one odd thing though. The green LED lights up at around 90% battery level and it's still charging. I downloaded a battery app which read the same level.

wptski said:
I don't know why your various chargers didn't work but it doesn't seem to be because of current. It didn't charge at 2A or even close to that.
If what your saying correct, why was I able to charge at less than 2A then? Could this be a ROM issue? I only had Froyo for a few hours but I've read that it didn't support USB charging which came with HC but it only charges with the S7 OFF.
It's possible that the demand went higher and I just didn't see on my current clamp meter. I'll have to try a current clamp and a scope to see if I missed a peak level.
Also what we are refering to as the charger might not be a charger but only a power supply and the actual charging circuit is in the S7.
I did notice one odd thing though. The green LED lights up at around 90% battery level and it's still charging. I downloaded a battery app which read the same level.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You were able to charge because your charger was CAPABLE of outputting 2A at least... try charging with one that CAN'T put that out and you should find that the Streak will not charge, on ANY ROM has been my experience, custom or stock

cdzo72 said:
You were able to charge because your charger was CAPABLE of outputting 2A at least... try charging with one that CAN'T put that out and you should find that the Streak will not charge, on ANY ROM has been my experience, custom or stock
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Capable is the magic word here. The wall wart isn't putting out 2A from what I've seen, unless it does for a split second at the start which I'm going to look into.
Most wall warts at whatever their rating is put out a higher voltage with no load and slightly higher than its marked voltage under a load. If it required [email protected] max., you used a [email protected], S7 needs more current, the voltage would decrease. What's been stated here might be that the voltage was being pulled down and that's why the S7 wouldn't charge, not "really" the 2A issue.
I have a battery pack/cell load testing device used on RC stuff that connects via USB port for its graphic software. There were issues with certain Dell laptops that had a low voltage at their USB ports.

Maybe starting fully charged would help?
I have the OEM T-Mobile car charger and I've found that if I have a full charge before plugging the Streak into the charger it maintains a full charge for as long as I'm driving/using it. Otherwise, with a less than full charge I've watched it slowly discharge even though it's plugged in and is charging.
FYI: I also have a top of the line car charger for an iPad2 that charges the iPad no matter what charge level I plug it in. This iPad charger has a USB port which I have plugged the Streak USB cord into and it also doesn't keep up with the Streak's discharge if the Streak isn't a full charge to begin with. Kind of strange because I would think the iPad would draw more than a Streak. (the iPad isn't plugged in at the same time the Streak is charging)

DCoop said:
Maybe starting fully charged would help?
I have the OEM T-Mobile car charger and I've found that if I have a full charge before plugging the Streak into the charger it maintains a full charge for as long as I'm driving/using it. Otherwise, with a less than full charge I've watched it slowly discharge even though it's plugged in and is charging.
FYI: I also have a top of the line car charger for an iPad2 that charges the iPad no matter what charge level I plug it in. This iPad charger has a USB port which I have plugged the Streak USB cord into and it also doesn't keep up with the Streak's discharge if the Streak isn't a full charge to begin with. Kind of strange because I would think the iPad would draw more than a Streak. (the iPad isn't plugged in at the same time the Streak is charging)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The S7 must run some check before it tries to charge . Whatever it is the OEM supplied power supply passes the test.
What's the specs on your two power supplies?

Just remember if you dont have the same 2A for charging in the car. You cannot charge the streak while its TURNED ON. Same with USB charging, just turn the streak OFF, then charge. It will work. =)
Otherwise, Id get a DC to AC converter for the car, plug in your normal adapter.

alternate source of fast charger?

So I left my NC wall charger and cable in my hotel room in South Korea last weekend, and of course I am back home in TX with no way to charge besides normal microUSB, which takes forever.
Is there any source other than B&N for a high-speed (high current) charger and cable? The B&N one is like $25, which is not too bad, but I still would rather find an alternative if possible.

What you're looking for on the charger is something that's rated at 1.9A or better. Most made for the ipad are 2A. The only alternative I've made use of is a Belkin one they sell at Wallyworld for $20 bucks, (same type deal as you but I still had the cable and was still on the road). With the stock cable I get a full charge in about three hours and with a regular cable I get a full charge overnight. If I had to do it over I might have pushed my schedule a little harder and looked for a B&N so I would have ended up with a "spare" cable out of the deal.

mr72 said:
So I left my NC wall charger and cable in my hotel room in South Korea last weekend, and of course I am back home in TX with no way to charge besides normal microUSB, which takes forever.
Is there any source other than B&N for a high-speed (high current) charger and cable? The B&N one is like $25, which is not too bad, but I still would rather find an alternative if possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bummer! I travel to S. Korea regularly in Jan/Feb and in early Aug. Team development programs with Samsung at their Cheonan S1 Training Center. Where do you travel to in S. Korea?

Where as finding an adequate charger seems easy enough, its the cable that's the problem. Has to be an official B&N cable for fast charging. A standard microUSB will charge very slowly. I've yet to find an aftermarket equivalent.

Has anyone checked out a touchpad charger? It looks like it's just a standard micro usb charge that puts out 2A. It seemed to charge my nook reasonably fast but I didn't let it get above 95% since I wasn't sure if it would hurt the battery. I'll have to do a better test to see how long it takes to charge

bitnerd said:
Has anyone checked out a touchpad charger? It looks like it's just a standard micro usb charge that puts out 2A. It seemed to charge my nook reasonably fast but I didn't let it get above 95% since I wasn't sure if it would hurt the battery. I'll have to do a better test to see how long it takes to charge
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here are the results of a very quick test that I just performed:
Nook Color running Mirage CM7 latest version (5/18)
Overclocked to 1100Mhz and interactiveX governer
Screen at 100% brightness
Battery Monitor Widget main graph screen displayed entire time
Logging set for every 60 seconds
Test lasted about 5min for each combination
Battery at about 70%
Nook charger & cable
- average reading of +892mA
- mV increased 3844mV to 4053mV
Touchpad cable & charger
- average reading of -335mA
- mV increased 3847mV to 3901mV
Touchpad cable & Nook charger
- average reading of -407mA
- mV increased 3847mV to 3888mV
Nook cable & Touchpad charger
- average reading of +1211mA
- mV increased 3826mV to 4081mV
So it looks like the Nook cable is the key. As long as you have a charger that puts out around 2 amps or so and the Nook cable, the Nook will fast charge. It actually charged faster on the HP charger (2.0A output vs 1.9A for the Nook charger).
I also tried a cheap data cable I had and it stated "USB charging" and the results were similar to using the HP cable but a bit lower on the mA readings.
I plan to run the test again using a high Amp car charger but I think the results will be pretty much the same.
The best combination for a super fast charge is the HP Touchpad wall charger and the Nook cable

Just call B&N, talk nice. They will either give you a new set, or set you up with an order. They gave one to me, 2 day ship too...

My cable broke last weekend. I went to a BN store, and they sell the cable without the charger for $15.
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk 2

I don't know about the fast charger, but the charger for a samsung cell phone (not a smart phone just a normal phone) phone will charge the nook. I've accidentally plugged it in and it worked. I've not used it for extended periods so can't speak to its long term ability to work.

joelgrice said:
[...] So it looks like the Nook cable is the key. As long as you have a charger that puts out around 2 amps or so and the Nook cable, the Nook will fast charge. It actually charged faster on the HP charger (2.0A output vs 1.9A for the Nook charger).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've noticed that my NT on B&N firmware 1.4 will charge on a non-B&N charger, but that the charging status shown in settings always says "not charging". My NC on CM7.2 simply indicates it's charging. I don't know if the B&N status really matters or not, but it is finicky about the wall adapter. If/when you re-test, could you please note the battery status?
Meanwhile, I did some testing with a PowerGen 12v adapter. I was able to get the NT showing "charging (AC)" while using the 1A plug on the adapter with the B&N cable. Reading the little booklet that comes with it indicates that "some devices" can pull more than 1A off this plug, including the "HP touchpad, Kindle Fire". While charging, I did get the erratic screen issue while plugged in. With the B&N charger, the same cable didn't cause this behavior on the NT. Not sure what that means, but you basically can't use it while it charges with the adapter. The 2A plug, described as "for the iPad" shows "not charging" (but not discharging). Using a generic microUSB cable also yields "not charging".
I also tested a EZOPower 7800 mAh supplemental battery. I was able to get a NT showing "charging (AC)" while using the "S" plug, described as compatible with the Samsung P1000 (Galaxy Tab) with the B&N cable. The "I" (iPad) plug did not work. The battery itself does charge off any 1A USB source, and will charge external devices at full 2.1A power as it charges. This means you should be able to let this battery power your NC, while the EZOPower battery charges more slowly from a normal 1A USB 12 VDC or AC adapter. Once the NT is fully charged at full rate, the EZOPower battery will itself charge. There were no screen issues with this combination, and I could use the device as it charged (with the usual cautions about the fragile B&N cable, of course.)
I don't know if the distinction between "not charging" and "charging (AC)" actually means anything, but the B&N firmware seems to care, while CM doesn't.

The reason why people notice they need a stock NC cable to 'fast charge' is that While it appears at first glance to be a standard microUSB plug.... it is not. Go ahead, try and plug it into your cell phone (no, it wont hurt your phone). The NC 'microUSB' plug actually has many more pins than the standard 5 (Something up near 20 as I recall). There are the normal 5 upfront, then the rest as further back. When you plug it in to charge, one of the rear pins connects and can supply the 1.9A max charge current. That 1.9A pin is directly connected to the Power Mgmt chip and is the only way to get high current charge.

The <explicitvie delted) whole story
There are three pieces to this puzzle.
1) a high power 2amp / 2000ma USB charger
2) shorting the correct pins in the cable to let the device know it is connected to a high power charger
3) extra long 12 ping next gen micro usb cable.
Some details...
Not all 1.9 / 2amp chargers are actually 2 amps
Some are 2 x 1amp
Some are mis-represented
etc.
I have tried many...
Some are frauds
Some are designed by idiots.
Few actually work
Yes, this is a Ipad spec.
Shorting the data pins (2 to 3) is required.
Go on eBay and look up pwr+ usb filter.
This little USB type a male to female adapter
does just that
shorts the data pins
finally the cable...
There is a new type of micro USB 12 pin connector on the cable.
The other big side is standard 4 pin.
The micro connector is longer than a standard micro USB.
The are some overseas import cables that work.
A standard USB cable WILL NOT WORK.
PS:
using a standard charger and cable will work but takes 4x longer.
Charging while on will run the battery down.
Pretty much stay with genuine OEM parts.
Especially the cable.
Unless you are tech savvy.
Google 12 pin USB
You can source a good 2amp power supply.
You can use OEM Ipad chargers.
HP makes a good 2A charger. PN 157-10157
12V - Scosche big black 4" long job 2 port 2.1a + 1a
However you must short the data pins with the pwr+!
mail at lofthouse dot org

qi wireless charge

i have a question
i am planning to buy a wireless charge and want to know something
if i buy the wireless charge where do i must look?
input or the output for more faster charging ?
example:
Wireless charging standard: Qi standard
Power: 10W
Wireless distance: 5mm
Input: 5V 2000mA
Output: 5V 1000mA
Frequency: 100-200 kHz
Power transform efficiency:> 75%
or dou have a link for a fastercharger already?
thank you

I have a wireless charger. It doesn't charge fast at all. You need a powerful charger to power the wireless dock. That's the 2000mA you see above.
I use a turbo charger to power my wireless dock. When connected to my phone directly, Ampere reports that it will reach up to 2200mA.
My phone now is at 50% charge and in the wireless dock charging wirelessly at 570mA.
Wireless charging is trickle charging only.
[NG]Owner

I am using several cheap QI-pads from eBay (China)
Use with standard usb-chargers (different types).
Disadvantage of QI-pads is that it's critical how the phone is placed on the pad.
Extra difficult with a Nexus 6. The back isn't flat.
With plastic material of a sleeping mat l've made a 'charging bed' that fits​ my Nexus 6.

I have a wide variety of Qi chargers scattered around the house, car, and office.
They all do an acceptable job of keeping my phone topped up throughout the day. None of them are even close to as fast as the QC 2.0 plug in chargers but that's not a problem for me. Because I can just set my phone down to charge anytime it is almost always fully charged.

Qi pad on my desk at work and night-stand at home. Phone is on it about 6-8 hours at night, and another 2-4 hours during the day. If my phone is below 50%, it will take a few hours to get back to 100%. But it is a great way to start the day at 100% charge without stress on teh USB port.