I'm having problems with kaiser charging when using HSDPA and even slow connections like 3G and EDGE.
Problem is that it charges for about 20-30 minutes (connected to a powered 1Amp USB hub or even with AC charger), then charging light goes off and battery power starts to drop by about 5% every 20-30 minutes.
Have anyone tried 2Amp chargers? It seems like it may be the problem with kaiser itself, since it charges itself but then just stops and will not charge itself until I soft-reset it.
PS: it gets kinda warm, but I wouldn't call it hot. Dunno if its related to temperature.
Any ideas?
Am I the only one with this problem? If so, maybe I should return the phone and exchange it for a working unit?
No, I have the same problem here.
When I use my kaiser in the car (usually navigating) the orange charge light initially lights up, but after a short period goes out. When I disconect and connect the USB-cable, the light temporarily comes on again.
I am using a 1A car charger. I do notice the charger feels a bit hot when in use, so maybe the kaiser is drawing more power than allowed? I can imagine the charger overheating which causes the voltage to drop. Which probably causes the kaiser to stop using USB power. But this is all speculation.
I am planning to use a 5A voltage regulator to 'upgrade' the USB charger, and see if this solves the problem.
--After a bit more reading, I found some info about the kaiser detecting if it is connected to a charger or a USB host device, and regulating it's maximum charge power accordingly. So I will try a modified USB cable to let the kaiser know it can get 1000mA from the car charger.
It's not the USB charger. I have 2A and 3A Olympus Camera chargers that I modified to use as a USB charger. Also cheaper 1A AC chargers. I thought the Olympus chargers would be perfect, because they were high amperage, and built solidly. I had the same charge problems with the TyTn II, and an iPod Nano. They would either charge partially and then stop, or not charge right away, but the charge light would come on after awhile. But still only partially charge.
My guess is that the chargers that work may have a load added in, so that the switching regulator will turn on with any additional load from the device, and stay on. I never found any information on this, though.
What does work: The USB chargers made for any PDA phone. Apple iPod chargers. I bought an 800ma iPod charger (probably a clone). It's a small white cube, with a USB outlet, and interchangeable AC plugs. It charges the Nano, and the TyTn II OK. The Nano last for a week now, instead of 2 days. The TyTn II starts charging right away, and stays charging. So whatever the Apple USB chargers do, they do work.
A thought for the car is to get a car charger made for the iPod, and see if that may work.
To be more accurate, the iPod charger starts charging the TyTn II right away, and the charge light stays lit. I've not actually done a controlled test on it. Just charged for awhile, and verified that the charge light comes on right away, and stays on. Everything looks normal, though. I will try a more controlled test, and post the resutls.
please keep us posted. I've also contaced HTC support about this, I'm waiting the response. Once I found out I will post here.
Hopefully iys not a ksier limitation.
Test results.
Battery at
- 61%, Display off while charging
- 83% - after 70 mins of charging. Then stopped, as was going out.
Started again at:
- 88%, Display off
- 100% - after 60 mins. A little shorter, probably, as I missed when the charge light went green.
I believe the PDA will fast charge up to around 80%, and then slow charge for the remainder. That would explain why it takes 60 mins to charge from 88% to 100%.
So, the iPod charger works great for a PDA, and will start charging right away when it is connected, and it will charge to 100% full charge. It is not the PDA that is stopping the charging. It just has special requirements that only some chargers can handle, so you have to get either a charger built for a PDA, or something like the iPod charger.
So it works quite well as a general purpose charger for iPods, and for the TyTn II, and probably anything that uses a USB charger. It is small, with interchangeable AC plugs. A good travel/general purpose charger. I can bring just this, and different cables for different devices. Phone, MP3, etc.
It is labeled Input:100-240V, Output 5V 1A
Looks like:
Apple MA592LL/A iPod USB Power Adapter
Just as an aside, I have a lithium battery pack 2 7/8" x 2 1/8" x 1/2" thick. It is rated at 2400mAh, input 5V, through a built in retractable USB plug. Output is 5V 450mAh through a female USB plug. Just extend the USB male plug and plug into any USB source to charge it. It works quite well as a small portable battery pack to power/charge a PDA if using GPS steadily. It's flat, and easy to carry.
And it is quite cheap.
ttt123, thanks for your info. I guess I need to get an iPod charger then.
Iam using the Dell Streak 7 as a sat nav system in the car. Ive tried to charge it up on the usb car adapter but it seems to loose its charge over time, making the D7 unusable for the purpose of a sat nav. Am i doing something wrong or is there a special usb car adapter for the job?
Thanks, David.
Does it say it's charging when plugged in?
Depending on how powerful your charger is it's likely that it's draining faster then the charger can provide. At best on my s5 it's just barely faster then the charger and the s7 needs more power then that.
Thanks for peply, yes it states it is plugged in. I came to the same conclusion. Wonder if there are any other chargers that have more juice.
diddy64 said:
Thanks for peply, yes it states it is plugged in. I came to the same conclusion. Wonder if there are any other chargers that have more juice.
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Click to collapse
There are several that will do the job. Just look for specs that include putting out 5.5 volts and 2 amps. Several of the chargers that are made for the iPad2 will work. And you may want to install a lighter adapter that you can wire directly to the battery that will allow up to 2 or 3 amps from each port
Most standard USB ports do not put out enough power to charge the DS7. The best bet is to use a inverter that plugs into your cigarette lighter and then plug the charger into that, not just the USB cable.
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Inverter-Charger-Portable-SmartPhones/dp/B00144KS6W
I use this setup:
Bestek Adapter
Trans4m lighter adapter
The Bestek I have wired to the battery so I have no fuse problems with lighter, and with that I can charge either my iPad2 or my Streak7, IF I need to charge both, then I plug the Transform adapter into the Bestek and can then charge BOTH devices, the Ipad2 AND the Streak7 and a couple of other things if need be
Thank you guys, this gives me alot of hope. Once again you all get my thanks.
Cheers,
David.
Yea, like they previously stated not all chargers are created equal.
Unless it states it's a tablet/ipad charger you cant assume it's doing 2+ amps. Most phone/lower end ones can only do 500mA/1A.
Realistically you'd prob need at least 2 amps to get a net gain while using gps/anything demanding. But I dont know if it would even try and draw above that if given the chance. [email protected] is what the bundled wall charger does and can accept up to 5.5v (as it's still within the +/-10% tolerence of the usb spec, but just barely)
My fully charged stock S7 WiFi running 514 draws only 45-70mA. Maybe starting fully charged would help?
wptski said:
My fully charged stock S7 WiFi running 514 draws only 45-70mA. Maybe starting fully charged would help?
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I don't know anything about how it works, but I imagine tablets are wired to know when they are receiving the correct amount of input. For instance, if you connect your Streak 7 to a powered USB hub that only puts out 5 volts, it won't charge nor will it charge when connect via usb to the PC, it has to be receiving 5.5 volts and 2 amps before it will let itself receive charge. I have an iPad that is the same way and have noticed all the tablets I have had my hands on are the same, Galaxy Tabs, Transformers, Xoom... all those have to receive higher numbers to charge. So you have to have a cigarrette lighter adapter that puts that out, if it's for a cell phone it won't do anything for it
cdzo72 said:
I don't know anything about how it works, but I imagine tablets are wired to know when they are receiving the correct amount of input. For instance, if you connect your Streak 7 to a powered USB hub that only puts out 5 volts, it won't charge nor will it charge when connect via usb to the PC, it has to be receiving 5.5 volts and 2 amps before it will let itself receive charge. I have an iPad that is the same way and have noticed all the tablets I have had my hands on are the same, Galaxy Tabs, Transformers, Xoom... all those have to receive higher numbers to charge. So you have to have a cigarrette lighter adapter that puts that out, if it's for a cell phone it won't do anything for it
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The voltage is constant but current isn't. It won't know how much current is available unless it asks for it. It's like a 2A fuse, you can draw up to 2A, no more.
Even with a fully charged battery it'll show charging at 98% for a short time and that's when I saw the higher 70mA but I'm not sure if it's in the CC or CV part of a Li-Ion charge cycle but I'd guess CV because it's less than 100mA.
My bad thinking measuring AC input current instead of DC current since this thread is about USB power.
Used a cheap ReTrak USB extension cord that loses connections to seperate the wire to measure DC current. My fully charged S7 showing 100% charge still draws 150mA after hours of being plugged in. Since Li-Ion cells normally don't use a constant trickle charge, I "assume" something draws on the battery all the time along with the indicator light and buttons.
Booting up it draws a little over 1A, fully charged while booted up, it draws around 600mA. While charging and powered up, it draws 914mA. Charging while off, it draws 1160mA. Far from 2A.
wptski said:
My bad thinking measuring AC input current instead of DC current since this thread is about USB power.
Used a cheap ReTrak USB extension cord that loses connections to seperate the wire to measure DC current. My fully charged S7 showing 100% charge still draws 150mA after hours of being plugged in. Since Li-Ion cells normally don't use a constant trickle charge, I "assume" something draws on the battery all the time along with the indicator light and buttons.
Booting up it draws a little over 1A, fully charged while booted up, it draws around 600mA. While charging and powered up, it draws 914mA. Charging while off, it draws 1160mA. Far from 2A.
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I understand that, but you are missing the point, if the internal wiring of these tablets don't receive the 2A they want they WILL NOT even begin to charge. I tried literally dozens of chargers when I first got my S7, spent a couple hundred bucks actually, and none of the chargers not meant for larger devices won't work, and what those chargers all had in common, 2A output
The S7 can and will draw off low capacity ports, it just wont admit to charging unless it's at least 1A as it's just that.
I've had my S7 charge off a 500mA port on my pc at the rate of like 1%/hour while sleeping. As it's barely gaining even while idleing it's not really charging in the literal sense, but it's definitely charging in the technical sense.
Are your data lines shorted together? I believe most high draw devices wont attempt to pull 2A unless it detects that it's on a high draw charger (which I think do this to indicate it as such)
cdzo72 said:
I understand that, but you are missing the point, if the internal wiring of these tablets don't receive the 2A they want they WILL NOT even begin to charge. I tried literally dozens of chargers when I first got my S7, spent a couple hundred bucks actually, and none of the chargers not meant for larger devices won't work, and what those chargers all had in common, 2A output
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I don't know why your various chargers didn't work but it doesn't seem to be because of current. It didn't charge at 2A or even close to that.
If what your saying correct, why was I able to charge at less than 2A then? Could this be a ROM issue? I only had Froyo for a few hours but I've read that it didn't support USB charging which came with HC but it only charges with the S7 OFF.
It's possible that the demand went higher and I just didn't see on my current clamp meter. I'll have to try a current clamp and a scope to see if I missed a peak level.
Also what we are refering to as the charger might not be a charger but only a power supply and the actual charging circuit is in the S7.
I did notice one odd thing though. The green LED lights up at around 90% battery level and it's still charging. I downloaded a battery app which read the same level.
wptski said:
I don't know why your various chargers didn't work but it doesn't seem to be because of current. It didn't charge at 2A or even close to that.
If what your saying correct, why was I able to charge at less than 2A then? Could this be a ROM issue? I only had Froyo for a few hours but I've read that it didn't support USB charging which came with HC but it only charges with the S7 OFF.
It's possible that the demand went higher and I just didn't see on my current clamp meter. I'll have to try a current clamp and a scope to see if I missed a peak level.
Also what we are refering to as the charger might not be a charger but only a power supply and the actual charging circuit is in the S7.
I did notice one odd thing though. The green LED lights up at around 90% battery level and it's still charging. I downloaded a battery app which read the same level.
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You were able to charge because your charger was CAPABLE of outputting 2A at least... try charging with one that CAN'T put that out and you should find that the Streak will not charge, on ANY ROM has been my experience, custom or stock
cdzo72 said:
You were able to charge because your charger was CAPABLE of outputting 2A at least... try charging with one that CAN'T put that out and you should find that the Streak will not charge, on ANY ROM has been my experience, custom or stock
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Capable is the magic word here. The wall wart isn't putting out 2A from what I've seen, unless it does for a split second at the start which I'm going to look into.
Most wall warts at whatever their rating is put out a higher voltage with no load and slightly higher than its marked voltage under a load. If it required [email protected] max., you used a [email protected], S7 needs more current, the voltage would decrease. What's been stated here might be that the voltage was being pulled down and that's why the S7 wouldn't charge, not "really" the 2A issue.
I have a battery pack/cell load testing device used on RC stuff that connects via USB port for its graphic software. There were issues with certain Dell laptops that had a low voltage at their USB ports.
Maybe starting fully charged would help?
I have the OEM T-Mobile car charger and I've found that if I have a full charge before plugging the Streak into the charger it maintains a full charge for as long as I'm driving/using it. Otherwise, with a less than full charge I've watched it slowly discharge even though it's plugged in and is charging.
FYI: I also have a top of the line car charger for an iPad2 that charges the iPad no matter what charge level I plug it in. This iPad charger has a USB port which I have plugged the Streak USB cord into and it also doesn't keep up with the Streak's discharge if the Streak isn't a full charge to begin with. Kind of strange because I would think the iPad would draw more than a Streak. (the iPad isn't plugged in at the same time the Streak is charging)
DCoop said:
Maybe starting fully charged would help?
I have the OEM T-Mobile car charger and I've found that if I have a full charge before plugging the Streak into the charger it maintains a full charge for as long as I'm driving/using it. Otherwise, with a less than full charge I've watched it slowly discharge even though it's plugged in and is charging.
FYI: I also have a top of the line car charger for an iPad2 that charges the iPad no matter what charge level I plug it in. This iPad charger has a USB port which I have plugged the Streak USB cord into and it also doesn't keep up with the Streak's discharge if the Streak isn't a full charge to begin with. Kind of strange because I would think the iPad would draw more than a Streak. (the iPad isn't plugged in at the same time the Streak is charging)
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The S7 must run some check before it tries to charge . Whatever it is the OEM supplied power supply passes the test.
What's the specs on your two power supplies?
Just remember if you dont have the same 2A for charging in the car. You cannot charge the streak while its TURNED ON. Same with USB charging, just turn the streak OFF, then charge. It will work. =)
Otherwise, Id get a DC to AC converter for the car, plug in your normal adapter.
Hi folks,
We're getting ready for a cross country trip. 2 kids, two tablets. One is a Samsung Tab 2 that charges via usb connected to a standard 12V-to-USB car charger just fine. The other tablet is an Asus TF701t. When connected to the regular USB cable for it, plugged into the 12V-to USB charger, it says "not charging." So I read up through Google and found the ASUS tabs have special requirements.
I just bought an: Asus Eee Pad Car Charger Power Adapter,36 pin 15V 1.2A Power Adapter Travel Car Charger for ASUS EeePad TF600 TF600T TF810C TF701T (Car Charger)
I plugged it in, and the tab still says "Not Charging."
Now, it IS charging a bit... despite the battery window saying not charging, I see the green timeline indicator that shows charging, and after a few minutes it went from 91% to 92%.
But I'm concerned this will be just a trickle of charging and not stand up to constant use. We've got two days of driving, 8 -10 hours per day, and this tab is my 8 year old's primary entertainment.
Given this is the official car charger for the tab, why won't it show proper charging?
My plan B is that the car does have a built-in 110V outlet. I could plug the wallwart into that (though, I need an extension cord, because the wallwart is too big to fit in the small recess where the 110V line is). I'm a bit worried the wall wart will pull too much juice through the 110V line and cause it to shut down (thermal protection).
Experiences or thoughts that might help me here?
Marc
Yeah sounds like it can't supply the correct voltage. More likely it is supplying 11V and the tab really wants 15V to charge. (Car batteries are 12V so unless it has some sort of transformer in it which is unlikely). So it will be a slower trickle charge.
Compare the car's inverter rating (the 110V outlet) with the input rating on the Asus charger. Mine wants 0.5A at anything from 100 to 240 volts, so if your car outlet is rated 120 watts or better it will do. If you are handy with a soldering iron there is a simple alternative: chop off a female USB cable and splice it into an automotive 12V power plug. Assuming your car's alternator and regulator are healthy (and of course battery) it will put out 14.0-14.5V at cruising speeds, perfect for charging Asus TFs. If your car has a 12V power outlet; many don't come with cig lighters anymore, but most have the same hole somewhere with a rubber plug in it. Word of warning though: make sure the kids don't plug the Samsung (or anything but a TF) into the modded 12V USB port, it will let the magic smoke out. They are only rated for 5V.
Turns out the car charger charged the tablet fine despite the not charging status. We started the trip at 9:30 with 75% charge. Two hours later, with constant game use, the tablet was nearly full. Stayed that way throughout the day's drive.
Thanks all.
Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
Could anyone tell me if I'm charging wirelessly at 5W or 15W?
On one hand the notification says 'Fast wireless charging' which I've read generally means 15W.
On the other, my charger, despite being marketed as having fast wireless charging, is only certified for 'Basic Power Profile (5 Watt)'.
(I am using the 2A wall charger included with the phone.)
Install galaxy charge current, that will give you the actual charge in mAh, so you can compare the performance in different charging scenarios you may have