Without knowing what it was, I encountered the RLOD on my phone after leaving it on USB overnight. After reading the first two or three pages of two different threads I tried the little lucky "fixes" and found that none of them worked.
I have a backup phone and need my phone for work, so I put my SIM in that phone only to find it was dead. Went to my local AT&T store and they said the SIM is fried. They replaced the SIM and everything is working now.
I replaced the battery in my TyTN and now I'm recharging my original battery. The phone works without problems, or heating up, or shortened battery life.
So here is my theory:
The phone has a similar monitor as the offgrid solar system does. It's job is two-fold: don't let the battery overcharge -and- don't let the battery every discharge to 0.
I suspect that most problems may happen when the phone is connected to a laptop or desktop computer via the USB port and left on when the computer goes to sleep. At this point, the scenario is similar to a monitor on an offgrid solar home. The monitor decides when to pull from the batteries and when to fire up a generator. But if the monitor is set incorrectly, it constantly flicks between charge/generator and the end result is a huge draw on the batteries (rather than a charge going into the battery).
Now with the laptop asleep the trickle charge is way lower than normal. Activity on the phone may also actually flick the laptop in and out of sleep mode. The basic end result is the phone starts the same type of draw between battery and trickle charge, causing a higher than normal draw on batteries, and finally it heats up the chip on the SIM and fries it either partially or completely.
If you have "resuscitated" your phone, but still have problems, simply replacing the SIM should fix it. If you get the RLOD I'd say get the SIM replaced as it is fried. Once you get the SIM and any SDHC card out, very tentatively try to recharge the old battery on the wall charger. (In other words, don't take your hand off the charger when you plug it into the wall) If you get a yellow light, breath easy. If you get the red light, UNPLUG IMMEDIATELY and throw that battery away!
My research on offgrid solar has been going on for almost a year and I began this theory when I noticed a few things:
1) I saw posts from people with not just HTC phones getting a red light.
2) I saw a few posts where people mentioned they used the USB overnight.
3) I have seen firsthand what the constant toggling can do to a 24V 1500 kilowatt hour battery system and the heat it generates.
Except...
There is no USB power when a laptop is shut down except for a few newer models which are designed intentionally to do so. And USB activity does not wake the laptop, particularly not "in and out" of sleep mode. If it does, your laptop has problems.
Final point.. Hasn't it been ground in to use the supplied charger? Most people who report failures admit they were using third-party chargers.
That said, a USB cable should be a more reliable charge source than a cheap AC charger due to the fact that a laptop has to have clean power itself and cheap AC chargers can fail in many fashions and often result in excessive DC voltage or AC voltage winding up in the source.
Right I am sick of seeing Samsung Battery's die, not the other day I saw at lest 5 note battery's in one of these recycle battery bins and all of them was ballooned just like mine, I want to use the device without a battery this phone is used as a home entertainment device and 3G modem nothing more, its not used as a phone any more, I want to integrate it in to my Bluetooth speaker would look nice and fit very well.
Problem is I have no idea how to go about doing this without the battery, if there a way to to trick the phone to thing it has a battery or has anyone made a factory cable for the Note?
I feel all companies that make these device to run off a battery only are destroying our world faster as there is so much life left in old android devices if we just could power them from mains power only.
I would like to power it from the battery side if I could so I can still use the USB host but this is not 100% important the 11 gig free on the device and the sd slot will do our home music needs.
Any advice would be great but please don't reply 'get a new battery there cheap', the unit once built wont have access to the battery so making it impossible to keep changing the battery when it balloons again.
Thanks, Rex
62 9262248
i think u disrespect our device,
no one accept that
darkangel0077 said:
i think u disrespect our device,
no one accept that
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For a member with only 5 posts you clearly have no idea what your talking about, how is wanting to give my device a new lease of life
disrespectful? The only thing letting the device down right now is the lag of battery well damaged balloon battery, Housing this with my 50 wat
bluetooth powered speaker would really give new life to this device and how I am using it as a 3G modem I would also like to use the USB host
that this device supports.
I think you should be less disrespectful in your posts next time.
# Back to Topic
I could use wifi to access content on my network but I was hoping to set up RPI to send the phone to the TV making the device able to also stream my videos to the TV, I am not sure that Android or this device could support multi wifi connections if it could I could do that and also have a dedicated stream for my netflix.
If I can find a way to power all this then I think I will also open a build log post later with all the parts and steps
I was going to use our Acer Iconia Windows 8.1 tablet but the USB host on that is like a wet fist out of water, the android is much better at this task then the tablet.
Recap, I would like to power the device without a battery but via the battery pins so I can still use the USB host.
I need to be able to draw enough power for the device, the USB and Wifi + Bluetooth at the same time.
If any ideas on how this could be done it would be great, I was thinking using some kind of meter to find out what the battery gives the battery circet and then find some kind of multi power block to offer that.
rexzooly said:
For a member with only 5 posts you clearly have no idea what your talking about, how is wanting to give my device a new lease of life
disrespectful? The only thing letting the device down right now is the lag of battery well damaged balloon battery, Housing this with my 50 wat
bluetooth powered speaker would really give new life to this device and how I am using it as a 3G modem I would also like to use the USB host
that this device supports.
I think you should be less disrespectful in your posts next time.
# Back to Topic
I could use wifi to access content on my network but I was hoping to set up RPI to send the phone to the TV making the device able to also stream my videos to the TV, I am not sure that Android or this device could support multi wifi connections if it could I could do that and also have a dedicated stream for my netflix.
If I can find a way to power all this then I think I will also open a build log post later with all the parts and steps
I was going to use our Acer Iconia Windows 8.1 tablet but the USB host on that is like a wet fist out of water, the android is much better at this task then the tablet.
Recap, I would like to power the device without a battery but via the battery pins so I can still use the USB host.
I need to be able to draw enough power for the device, the USB and Wifi + Bluetooth at the same time.
If any ideas on how this could be done it would be great, I was thinking using some kind of meter to find out what the battery gives the battery circet and then find some kind of multi power block to offer that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No Android doesn't support Multi-Wi-Fi Connections. (Don't think anything supports that...)
I've tried using Note 2 without charger, doesn't work, probably doesn't for Note either. Though it might work with a socket that supplies loads of power.
Smack that Thanks button if I helped!
KitKat came in on my OmniROM, running on my Note 2.
Sent from a small country called Singapore.
P.S. Time for school, not much time for XDA
Irwenzhao said:
I've tried using Note 2 without charger, doesn't work, probably doesn't for Note either.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes by default almost all phones don't let your power them on without the battery, but many newer android devices can be powered
by outlet power when in been programmed a factory mode, this is what I am asking people about if anyone has taken the chip of the batter
and provided it outlet power to fool the phone in to thinking its on battery.
You could cheat, find a power adapter and connect it to the battery connectors.
In case OP is still interested I have an idea about this issue. I had exactly the same question, how to power up an android phone without a batery plugged in.
Ignore daedric's post. Smartphones are powered by batteries which, when fully charged, provide 4.2 volts. Power adapter's output is 5 volts, so you would most probably damage your device. Supposing that phone chargers' output was 4.2 volts you would still not be able to use the device because the device draws a lot more current than a charger can provide.
My idea is to use a reliable DC-DC step down converter, and a powerful power adapter. I don't know how much current a Note could draw from its battery but I would try to find a step down converter that could at least handle 3 amps of output without damaging itself. Then I would try to find a reliable power supply like a 12v 2A. The idea is to connect the power supply to the step down converter and the converter to the battery pins on the device. Of course you would also have to set the potentiometer of the converter to output 4.2v.
BUT, there is one more problem. You have to trick the device to make it "think" that there is a battery connected and I don't know exactly how this can be done. I found on the internet a blog where a guy did so by connecting a resistor between the negative battery pin (on the device) with the third pin on the device. So, I don't know if it's possible on the Note, and how to do it. All I'm trying to say is that it might be possible, it just needs more research.
_purple_ said:
In case OP is still interested I have an idea about this issue. I had exactly the same question, how to power up an android phone without a batery plugged in.
Ignore daedric's post. Smartphones are powered by batteries which, when fully charged, provide 4.2 volts. Power adapter's output is 5 volts, so you would most probably damage your device. Supposing that phone chargers' output was 4.2 volts you would still not be able to use the device because the device draws a lot more current than a charger can provide.
My idea is to use a reliable DC-DC step down converter, and a powerful power adapter. I don't know how much current a Note could draw from its battery but I would try to find a step down converter that could at least handle 3 amps of output without damaging itself. Then I would try to find a reliable power supply like a 12v 2A. The idea is to connect the power supply to the step down converter and the converter to the battery pins on the device. Of course you would also have to set the potentiometer of the converter to output 4.2v.
BUT, there is one more problem. You have to trick the device to make it "think" that there is a battery connected and I don't know exactly how this can be done. I found on the internet a blog where a guy did so by connecting a resistor between the negative battery pin (on the device) with the third pin on the device. So, I don't know if it's possible on the Note, and how to do it. All I'm trying to say is that it might be possible, it just needs more research.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was thinking maybe you could take the bust battery and like you said use some kind of step down and psu connected to the battery side of the battery's chip thing so that it would provide the right power to the device.
rexzooly said:
I was thinking maybe you could take the bust battery and like you said use some kind of step down and psu connected to the battery side of the battery's chip thing so that it would provide the right power to the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a very clever idea. Unfortunately, I don't have currently any old smartphone to try it. In case you try it, be cautious not to short the lithium battery. They can be very dangerous. In case it vents, the gases are very dangerous if inhaled. There's also the risk of fire.
So... like most of you, i have at least one problem with my teclast x98 air tablet, version C9J8, running only windows (8.1 pro/10 preview).
At this time i've constantly encountered the following problems:
- not turning on after being shut down. Pressing the power button doesn't do nothing. Sometimes it does this while charging, at the end of the charge, othertimes it... simply won't power on.
- huge battery drain in stand by. I've flashed ALL (yes... all) dual boot/single boot air/air 2 BIOS files i could get, in all versions. If it's got a .bin extension... yes, i've flashed that too. No change AT ALL!
- huge batterty drain... when powered off !?!?! Yes, that's the next level of awsomeness. You know your tablet is special when it sometimes discharges faster when turned off compared with it turned on. (@XDA, guys .. can you please add some facepalm smiley/emoji.. i wanted to use it about 30 times since i got this tablet)
- sudden shutdowns. Like when you use your tablet it simply dies in your hands with no apparent reason.
- battery meter stuck at 7% and only 1 cell reported. NOT fixed by the methods already known (flashing BIOS and letting it discharge then recharge with tablet turned off).
So.. i'm pissed off. I've disassembled the damn thing in search for some answers. I'll by posting some photos with the guts of this thing (c9j8 version).
First of all, I wanted to check the power draw directly from the battery, so i've desoldered the positive wire from the battery and inserted an amps meter to check the current flow.
For example, the stock charger will supply around 1.5-1.9 amps to the battery when charging (tablet off). For comparison a small 5V 1A, samsung charger supplied 1.1 amps in the same setup. Some other interesting facts, when on and booted to windows - the tablet draws about 1.1-2.2 amps (mostly depending on screen brigtness and cpu load). That's a total of 4-11 watts. If you lower the brigtness from full to low (bottom third of the slider) you effectively half the power consumption. As usual the display consumes more then 50% of the total power being drawn. Those who complain about huge power drain on standby will be surprised to know that the tablet draws 0.3-0.8 amps (it fluctuates) in standby. That’s HUGE. It should be 0.03-0.05 amps at MAXIMUM. 0.3 amps multiplied to a 3.8volts cell is 1.14Watts draw per hour at minimum in my case.
Leaving that aside, let's return to the above problems. The battery is connected to the motherboard by using a 3 wire connection (positive, ground and data bus/i2c or similar). The motherboard itself doesn't feature ANY protection/power management chip aside from a single ROHM controller located under a metal shield. Even if some data is passed between the battery and motherboard, you can simply decouple the battery and power the tablet with regular 18650 lithium cells or 3 AA alkaline batteries in series. The tablet is stupid enough not to notice any difference.
Let's go more deep in the start-up sequence.
When you press the power button, a half a second 500mA ramping to 800mA load is registered. The power management chip measures the voltage drop under that load and if it deems it to be "acceptable" it passes power to the rest of the motherboard. BIOS/firmware takes over from there but does a measurement of its own. If it results in an "ok" the boot sequence can the follow. If not, the BIOS would then power off the tablet. Here lies the first problem. The power management chip and BIOS thresholds for a "low voltage" battery are different. Very different. The chip itself considers the battery voltage to be ok if it's above about 3.45-3.5 volts and not dropping lower then 3.3v under a 500-800mA load. The BIOS/firmware (or whatever software part does this) won't accept a measurement below 3.65v. volts. So, when you pass the BIOS stage and boot to windows, the data you get when checking your battery comes from the power management chip. If you fully discharge the battery in windows (down to 2-3% or similar) and you are able to shutdown the tablet by yourself (it doesn’t cut power by itself) you could find that it cannot power back again because even if the power management ic gives the go ahead, the bios/firmware side refuses to go any further. The battery must be charged for some time before the bios will allow for booting.
The problem is that both power management IC and BIOS readings should be taken in same way and be of similar value. They are not. It’s not that Teclast couldn’t do this, but for whatever reason they decided to write the BIOS in that way. The 7% problem could originate in the fact that a what the BIOS considers a dead battery (0%) is actually charged to a degree and is different from 0% measured at the power management chip level. Overall the power readings are inconsistent in both measurement and reporting. It doesn’t seem to be a hardware problem.
Another problem is how „dumb” is the battery management hardware. In any modern portable computer (laptops, tablets, even phones – excluding some chinese products) you cannot simply disconect the data bus from the battery and simply feed some random 3-4 volts to power the thing. It’s like you would remove the battery from your laptop, check the label on it for the voltage rating and stick a bunch of wires on the contacts (2 of them) and expect the thing to boot. It won’t. Firstly because IT’S NOT SAFE. The battery or motherboard can’t report one to another if a fault is occuring and can’t accurately measure voltage/current consumption.
Yet another problem is that the same power circuitry does not compensate for large voltage/current swings. A simple experiment for you folks to try. Get a aa battery (a battery in general) measure it’s voltage as it’s sitting still then connect a small lightbulb/motor/led/whatever load runs on that battery and measure the voltage WHILE the battery suplies current to the load. You will find a voltage drop at the battery level. It’s normal, is how these things run. A complex electronic device must take that into account in it’s design. At idle/browsing web/viewing picture, the tablet draws about 1.1 amps from a battery that’s registering 3.87volts (at that test’s time in my case). Running a benchmark/video game produced a series of spikes to 2 – 2.1 amps and an aditional voltage drop to around 3.61 volts. Remember that some power rails require exact voltages (cpu core, main bus, 5volt usb bus etc). The power circuitry must provide those exact voltages regarding the input voltage swing. Noup... and that’s the main problem untill now. THEY DONT! I was shocked to see how the chinese engineers are pushing it right on the edge. If you desolder one battery pin and insert an ampere meter in series, that’s enough to induce the little voltage drop needed for the tablet to freeze under load or shut down alltogether. The ampere meter leads were rated to withstand 10 amps under load – and they do, yet the simple fact you inserted a piece of wire along the track is enough to disturb an already delicate balance. The thing is only barely capable of whitstanding it’s own battery voltage swing. In my opinion you can try to reduce the load by disabling turbo modes on cpu/gpu or whatever (and teclast tried with some bios/models of the x98 air) but you cannot fix this by firmware. It’s just bad hardware design. They cut costs on the power management side.
Those are my finds untill now. I’m thinking of adding some capacitance over the power rails to take the load over from the batteries when a large amount of current is drawn (spikes that occur under load). Other then that, there is not much to do about this.
Even so, i don’t know why the tablet still draws power while turned off. I wasn’t able to make it do that while measuring. Aditionally i don’t know why only one cell is reported in windows. More tests are required.
This is still an ongoing "project". Some of my conclusion could be wrong at this stage. Like i've said it's still a work in progress. It would be quite a thing if anyone with some knoledge about the BIOS code (or how it runs on this tablet) could step in and direct me to the right hardware to examine.
here are some photos with the guts of this tablet
As you can see, the C9J8 at least has some metal shield above the cpu area and some crappy thermal compound over it. Some older models lacked the metal shield.
Next we have the battery wires and their link to the motherboard. As you can see, left to the 3 wires there are 4 brown devices, mounted in parallel. Those are capacitors. Like i've said above I'm thinking of adding some aditional capacitance to further help the motherboard compensate for the voltage drops registered on high load scenarios. The chinese guys thought of that, added the 4 caps but deemed them enough. Noup, that's just barely doing it. In fact the whole design is made to a price point, that's to be expected.
For easier probing, I've disconnected the red positive wire, and added a piece of wire of my own, one end to the battery red wire the other to it's coresponding pad on the motherboard. At the end of my wire, i'm probing in series with an ampere meter.
And for the sake of it, here's a photo with the registered power consumption with the tablet on. 1.11 amps x 3.8 volts = 4.21W total power being drawn. Actually that's pretty good. I remember the days i was probing a htc hd2 for some cpu related problems. While doing a benchmark at full brightness that device draw a maximum of 5.5 W. Due to the recent advancements, now we see a tablet drawing only 4.2W (admited, it's not on full load, but the screen is also much larger).
Anyway let's get back to our problems.
1. The high power drain when the tablet was off can be solved in the same way as fixing the reported battery capacity. Like previous guides made, you need to fully discharge the battery and then charge for 8 hours with the tablet OFF (don't turn it on). I had to do this 2 times to get the thing to work.
2. 7% battery and 1 cell reported. Like i've said in my first post, i've tried to let the battery discharge and then recharge while turned off. It never work. However, after desoldering the battery wires from the motherboard and then soldering them back (power was cut off from the motherboard during that time) now after my first attempt to discharge/recharge the battery, the capacity and number of cells are reported correctly for the first time since i've had this tablet. I now have to discharge the tablet again to see if it will get stuck at 7% again but at least i get the capacity reported like it should.
2. The shutdown/freeze under load. This thing ocured to me several times in the past but for whatever reason the tablet doesn't do that anymore. Arghhh.... Anyway, if anyone has this problem and knows how to reproduce it in windows (i'm only running windows now) please do tell me in order to test some solutions to it. My first try is to add some capacitors over the main power rail. If this will work, i'll then design a capacitance multiplier circuit using some transistors since there is not enough space in the tablet to simply add capacitors.
3. High standby drain. In my best scenario, the tablet draws 0.3 to 0.5 amps in standby and that's huge. I've tried disconnecting various devices on the motherboard but all that power goes into the cpu area. It has to do with the cpu core voltage and stand by states. The cpu is simply not sleeping deep enough. However that should be fixable with a bios update if teclast should decide to bother with that. One problem though, it seems not all tablets have this problem. But since it's located in the cpu area, if it should be a hardware fault there is no practical diy fix for that.
Just to confirm, you have tried the 2.02 BIOS that was released with the Lollipop beta a few weeks ago? Several people have reported that this BIOS solved the Windows standby battery issues. I've avoided flashing it myself because many people have also bricked their tablets.
Edited post..
I did tried that, no change. I'm close to fixing my particular problem. I'm now at about 1% per hour.
I'll keep testing meanwhile.
this seems allot like my issues with a C5J6, mostly unstable while charging or shortly after charging, also restart/shutdown is a hit and miss, most of the times I need to hold the power button for 10 seconds after I do reboot/shutdown and start the tablet again.
I'm trying to contact the seller (got it from banggood) but they want a video, should not be that hard but I dunno what they can do about obvious design flaws.
Do you think you can ever get the tablet stable yourself? (I'm not completely sure it's part Windows issues or not)
btw, I only use Windows as I was not interested in another android tablet.
I also just picked up a X98 Air 3G from GearBest, it's the C5J6 version. I just ran into the battery charge stuck at 7% in windows. I'm going to try clearing hibernation data, turning off hibernate while low (powercfg -setdcvalueindex SCHEME_CURRENT SUB_BATTERY BATACTIONCRIT 0) and then fully draining (manual) and letting it charge while off overnight.
I'm very interested in what you have been finding, I would be more than willing to help out if you need any assistance. I have a mutli-meter, soldering iron and a desire to get this thing working like it should. It bugs the hell out of me that it has these silly problems. My Bios version is 5.6.5 with a BIOS build date of 1-16-2015.
Could this have something to do with the Intel Power Managment drivers? Does this 7% problem still continue under Android? I suppose I need to do more testing myself.
HWINFO shows 14432 Designed Capacity (half) current capacity is 1007 mWh (7.0%) current voltage 3.784 V
It's been working fine under Windows for the last week, I dont really use Android much though I will likely try RemixOS sometime soon. I was considering blowing out all the partitions (BTW is there a map of all the partitions and their functions/contents?) and going with straight Windows 10 Pro when its full final version is out.
Is there a list of all hardware revisions and their release date and changes/logs? C5JG,C9J8, wtc......) the naming convention seems to have no real correlation to revision date huh?
PS: I also have been getting forced hibernation under heavy load/heat. I wonder if switching to another version of Windows will change anything? Anyone have the 7% issue and shutdowns under Win7?
Hello liquidmass. The 7% problem happens for me in both windows and android. I haven't figured out what to blame but the hardware side "knows" how to measure the actual charge level, it's just that the reporting part is all wrong or the software is poorly written (BIOS, mostly).
Funny though, all my initial problems seem to have vanished. I cannot figure out why since i can't make the tablet to do those bugs again. The single most probable thing it could have made any difference was the fact that i desoldered the battery wires and short circuited the pads on the motherboard (all 3 of them together) during some initial testing. Since I cannot make the tablet to shutdown under load I can't test a capacitance multiplier circuit over the power rail in order to check for improvements. The damn thing just works now.
Yet, the battery gauge still is broken and since i don't know the software side of these things i cannot figure out why. I can let it discharge completely and it would work fine for some time but it will occur again and so i would have to do it again and so on. I guess i can live with that...
motoi_bogdan said:
Hello liquidmass. The 7% problem happens for me in both windows and android. I haven't figured out what to blame but the hardware side "knows" how to measure the actual charge level, it's just that the reporting part is all wrong or the software is poorly written (BIOS, mostly).
Funny though, all my initial problems seem to have vanished. I cannot figure out why since i can't make the tablet to do those bugs again. The single most probable thing it could have made any difference was the fact that i desoldered the battery wires and short circuited the pads on the motherboard (all 3 of them together) during some initial testing. Since I cannot make the tablet to shutdown under load I can't test a capacitance multiplier circuit over the power rail in order to check for improvements. The damn thing just works now.
Yet, the battery gauge still is broken and since i don't know the software side of these things i cannot figure out why. I can let it discharge completely and it would work fine for some time but it will occur again and so i would have to do it again and so on. I guess i can live with that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm trying to figure out the 7% bug as well but I don't think it has anything to do with software. I might try and open it up to de-solder the battery wires and short the mainboard pins (if anyone else does this, make sure you do disconnect the battery and don't short the wires of the battery!!)
The shutdown under load might be my issues as well, but the most annoying thing probably is that reboot or shutdown don't work most of the time, it will just hang in a state that requires me to press the power button for 10 seconds and start it up again (with shutdown this isn't always obvious until you try and turn it on again)
I kinda hope things get a bit more stable with windows 10, else it's quite an expensive paperweight to be honest.
Hello,
I have several months a X98 Air 3G with id: C5J6. After two weeks I try install thunderbird and windows 10 collapse. I send several mails at Teclast with very little result. Such things as brushing in the language Chinese. After a while I try to reinstall windows via the UBS. After that my tablet has a black screen. I try to send the tablet back to china but that’s no option. I have experience that its never come back. With the USB flasher CH341A and a flash cable I flash the WINBOND 25Q64FW on board after disconnecting the battery. When I read it is flashed. So far so good? After loading with 5 volt and connecting the battery my tablet stays black. Now I put it in the box and put it far a way and buy something else. Never again in china.
My x98 is been stuck at 0% battery it wont turn on or charge...
I've disassembled the tablet and charged the battery externally, still not working. Any sugestion?
Hello, we have encountered similar problems with the Teclast Air III not turning on. Did you conclude anything?
Larterptx said:
My x98 is been stuck at 0% battery it wont turn on or charge...
I've disassembled the tablet and charged the battery externally, still not working. Any sugestion?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
u should cut the red wire in the battery.. wait 5 minutes to reset then again solder the wire..
I encountered the same problem and above solution worked for me
I turned my tablet off last night and plugged the charger in. The tablet already had maybe 60 or 70 percent charge. This morning it wouldn't turn on or charge. I tried the above and desoldered battery etc but no luck. The charger is putting out 5v. The battery only read 0.05v. And when on charge it reads 0.38v. It's my battery dead and needs replacing it is It another problem.
Same problem not turning on after battery fully drained in win8, please help
The advice I found somewhere to check power management on drivers seems to have stopped power drain in standby (windows 10). in particular Sound controller>realtek I2S Audio Codec>Power management>untick "allow device to wake computer"
Now the thing doesn't drain too badly. Before the rapid drain also lead me to the power on issue which I can now 'solve' by getting a charge in before it drains.
Alos, needs at least 2.1amps charger to fire up after draining.
Still get that uncertain feeling as to whether it will turn on or not!, but the last week or so has been fine.
I can confirm the power drain issues. Our Chinese friends made no effort in stabilizing the power line.
I'm using my AIR 3 as a home automation / wall tablet. Because it was unstable as hell I disconnected the the battery-print from the battery, and connected a laptop charger (4.62a) with buck down converter to it. With some tinkering I made Android believe the battery was 100% full and always charging. This made it much stabler, but still every 2 days, it just dies on me. Keep in mind this is a wall tablet, the screen goes off, only wifi is at full-performance wake-lock. So it's doing absolutely nothing, ice-cold to the touch, and still dies in the middle of the night. It's not logging errors anywhere, so I suspect a hardware problem.
Pondering what to do because the tablet is already flush mounted and I would need a different tablet with the exact screen dimensions.
Absolutely no more Teclast for me...
Has anyone modded the Teclast X98 to work without battery. Plugging a cable directly to the battery connection inside?
I see someone used a laptop charger, but I dont have one. Is it possible to use a regular USB charger?
I just bought a new battery and even with it the drain is absurd. This tablet has become unusuable.
Sadly Teclast is absolute garbage
Dear friends....Be careful with this company....their items is totally un- trustworthy..After sales support is terrible, they dont respond to emails messages etc and generally they dont care about their customers....this is not only my opinion, read the XDA forum about teclast products...Too bad for this company. Try to find what you looking for to another brand.....https://forum.xda-developers.com/x98-air/general/teclast-warning-buy-t3161767
I have air 3g model C5J8, It is working quite well, but with 2.5 A power charger when working with both OS's on it, batery is draining, It means that it is impossible to work with tablet longer than 7-8 hrs even with power charger connected, Is it normal in this model?
I tried using the tablet without battery with a 3.1 amp usb charger, but the Air III powerpeaks are to much for it to handle.
Now with a laptop charger of 4.62 amps, it's mich stabler, but it still dies on me...
Teclast = crap. Don't waste your money on it.
As with other similar posts, I seem to be having USB issues. Neither charging cables nor OTG show any signs of functionality. Wireless charging, however, does seem to be working but I must keep my phone out of its case. Just like the others, I saw a few persistent popups from Samsung VR to take a little tour, and twice I went back to what I was doing. Hadnt seen it since, then all of a sudden while connected to a normal note 3 charger, it began to rapidly switch between charging and disconnected. Unprovoked of course, and when I went to inspect and reinsert the cable, it began again after 2 or 3 minutes. I unplugged it, promptly tested with the original charger and had no luck. Then on to many more cables and charging bricks, laptop ports and such.. no action. Tried OTG flash drive, nothing. Last ditch effort, tried wireless charging with the phone off and its working. Has any headway been made in this issue? It seems software related, and at the very least carriers could acknowledge it if so. I am not under warranty, and this is an incredible loss for me as it effectively neuters my cell phone. I need to charge while out and about to run my business and wireless isnt very portable... Please help XDA
I have isolated the problem to a software issue undoubtedly... Correct me if im wrong. The wireless charging is interrupted when a cable is plugged into the usb port, indicating that it is not faulty and the phone recognizes the hardware. At least according to my personal logic.
EDIT : The Induction charging appears to be on its way out as well. Only working intermittently, and rarely at that. I fear the worst brick possible (one not caused my my own tampering)
Desperate bump plus a bonus question: what would you consider a fair price to pay for USB port repair? Considering giving that a try, maybe I have bad solder or something. I don't have UV glue and all that other necessary stuff to check it out myself.
So, I think I have a the same issue. I had Note 5 (DUO) which was 8 months old and it just suddenly stopped charging. It charged via USB only if the phone was turned off. However, it seems that it charged wireless. Because i was traveling, in the pinch, business meetings etc, could not waste time figuring out the issue and purchased another Note5(DUO), in August. Well, just today, it developed the same simptom as the previous one: it stopped charging via USB when the phone is on, it only charges when the phone is off! I see that there are no replies to the OP message, but adding my issue here in hope that there will be some response....
Hi everyone,
I'm really hoping someone can help me.
I have a Samsung galaxy tab s2 8inch. It is the SM-T710.
It was working fine playing music on a Bluetooth speaker system then the battery died.
Tried to charge it and it was acting funny, said it was charging then got to one or two percent and i attempted to power on while the device is on charge and it powered on then turned off within a few seconds.
Let the tablet charge for a while now and its not really going up and the screen has gone off and its not turning on and i now notice its getting really hot at the bottom part of the screen slightly above the home button.
Removed the charger and left it for one hour, then came back and tried with a different new genuine Samsung charger and cable, and still getting extremely hot within a few 5 - 10 seconds just above the home button.
Unplugged it and left it till the next day and attempted to charge it again same thing.
I though it could be either: A faulty battery or A faulty Micro USB charging port flex (possibly short circuiting).
Now Ive opened up the whole device and taken apart every item on the mother board following a tear down video on YouTube.
I then connected a brand new genuine battery to the board and removed the old one, and the device was still overheating however this time i could pin point the exact source of heat on the motherboard which i will circle on an image but cant attach to this post as i need ten posts.
The images are on my public google drive but i cannot share the links here any ideas?
I then thought the micro USB charging port flex is causing a short circuit and so i completely disconnected that and the overheating problem still occurred.
Then i disconnected each and every component one by one and still the same thing on the motherboard keeps overheating excessively within seconds of connecting the battery to the motherboard.
Now Ive completely removed the motherboard from the frame and Ive connected the battery to it and same overheating issue.
Now Ive reconnected just the micro USB charging port back to the motherboard and attempted to plug a charging cable into the port and exactly the same thing still overheating excessively.
I really do not want to replace my motherboard simply because of the data on the device etc.
Can someone please tell me what the red circled item is in my image so i know what is overheating!
Could it be the CPU?
Is there ANY other way to replace JUST that part, even in china? Can anyone advise or help me?
Many thanks to the people who patiently read this and helped.
Kaiser
London, UK
+1
I guess the motherboard got corrupted
First off, do not boot up an almost empty device. Second, it is entirely normal that the bottom area (charging port, home button etc) gets hot while charging. It will fade after the battery got some essential energy. Third, do not deplete the battery completely, if possible. In the long run it may damage the longevity of the battery.
Was there ever a solution to this issue? I'm having the same problem.