Hi! The unit is listed at Autopumpkin, but I can`t make external links yet, need 10 posts.. Search for SKU: CN03-03101B-US-A to find it.
I want to use it in my 2007 Skoda Octavia, and according to Autopumpkin it should fit (I sent pictures..) The big black power and speaker connector seems to be the same as the original unit, which is a Blaupunkt Nexus.
I`ve already asked a few questions to Autopumpkin, and got some answers, but there are still a few things that I need to know. I want to replace the original roof antenna with one that has DAB, FM and 3G, like partnumber 6R0035501D. Many to be found on eBay. I think I found the necessary cable for FM, with white female FAKRA connectors in each end. There are two white male FAKRA connectors on the head unit , I guess one is FM, don`t know what the other is. I think the antenna has red FAKRA female connector for 3G, I don`t know what the head unit has? Maybe one of the three SMA female connectors? I can read "Wifi" on one of them, but can`t read the other two. There are also two white multi pin connectors on the head unit that I don`t know what is used for.
I want to get the DAB+ module. FM is shutting down soon here in Norway, and this is the main reason for replacing the original head unit. I can`t see from the picture what antenna connector is on the DAB+ module , maybe SMB female? I think the roof antenna has a black FAKRA female connector for DAB. The antenna also has GPS, but some say it is better to use the enclosed GPS-antenna?
Not sure how the roof-antenna is powered. I can`t see any extra lead for power. If it is phantom powered from the radio I guess this must be done externally, or does the head unit provide phantom power on the antenna connector(s) ?
If anyone has an installation manual, or some other useful information on installation or issues with this head unit it would be great!
Related
Hi everybody,
I've got problems with connecting my Rikaline 6010 to the Car Kit. With the help of the forum I know now, wich pins I have to connect together. But I'm not be able to bring power to the Mouse. I have the +5V and GND connected but the LED on the mouse won't turn on. With a simple car adapter for the mouse and the xda it works perfect. I try to look inside the cable of the car adapter and it looks lite the cable, I build myself.
Maybe I have to short some pins inside the connector ??
Does anybody have a Rikaline 6010 successful connected to the xda car kit ?
thanks a lot
rob.
Make sure the switched power supply is connected.
I assume you are using the official XDA carkit.
I did some reverse engineering on this carkit and found that the GPS powerline is only working if the switched power line for the carkit is connected.
After disconnecting this line the GPS power will stay on for 1 hour and then automatically switch of.
Have you checked if there is power on the GPS connector of the carkit when nothing is connected? Maybe the current demand is to high? For pinlayout check www.vanhemert.biz
Francois
Hi Francois,
I think my problem is not the car kit. After it doesn't work with the carkit, I tried to connect my car-adapter-cable with the cable, I made myself to the gps-mouse. And also there, the mouse doesn't get power. So I simply put +5V and GND to the pins of the mouse-connection and it doesn't work.
Maybe GND must be connected to two pins or to the GND-pin AND the PS2-connector's metall ?
I think, I have to buy a H203e to make it work....
rob.
Pinlayout
I have looked at the data sheet (http://www.rikaline.com/pdf/gps-6010-manual-e.pdf) and it looks straightforward. Pin 2 and 4 should do the job but I can imagine that you need a correct RS232 signal to get the thing up and running. Are you sure that the LED is just an indication of power or does it only light if power and RS-232 is correct?
As you can see in the schematics on my website I had trouble opening the COM port on my XDA, Communication just did not start unless I pulled the DCD line (pin 6) to Vcc. This will activate Active sync in the same way as the original cable set I used to have.
Good luck,
Francois
Hi,
thanks for your reply. The LED on the GPS-Mouse have to turn on simply by bringing power to it. I've tried that by using my car adapter cable and simply connect the mouse to the cable and not connect the xda...and the LED turns on.
I've ordered today a Hi203E and I will try to conncet it as you described on your homepage....hope it will work (if not, I'll be back ;-))
thanks a lot
rob.
Hi Francois,
today I received my Hi203e and I will try to connect it to the carkit.
One Question:
Is the connector, which is shown on your homepage and labeled with "to gps" the female connector, which is wired to the gps-mouse or the male connector, which is wired on the selfmade cable between carkit and PS2-connector of the mouse ??
thanks
rob.
hi,
ok, my previous question is now obsolet. The connector, which is wired to the Hi203e, is male (at my Rikaline6010 it is female). So I have to buy a female connector and build new cable. I made a first test by bringing the +5V and GND of the carkit over an adaptercable to the gps-mouse and (yippie) it worked. The LED on the mouse turns on !! Looks pretty good.
...to be continued (if I have the new connector...)
rob.
Hi Francois,
I've got it now and it works perfect. Thanks again for the Info's on your webpage.
2 points:
I've got a low noise (frequently repeated) in the speaker, when the gps is active. Is there something to do against that ?
And how can I stop the activation of active-sync, when i put the xda into the carkit ?
Do you know that ?
thanks
rob
noise...
rob said:
I've got a low noise (frequently repeated) in the speaker, when the gps is active. Is there something to do against that ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would guess this is the speaker wire picking up the GSM signal, nothing to do with the GPS. Try re-aligning so that the wires relative to the antenna of the XDA. If that doesn't work, you could experiment with ferrite beads (these ugly black blocks on all modern cables) on the wires.
Same problem here, but...
I found that if I start serial communication with the GPS unit, i will hear some interferance via the speaker. It looks like the auto mute functions does not work immediatlly after inserting the XDA and "the connection is left open".
Workaround:
Pressing the red phone button to generate a tone (keypress) activates the automute and the interferance will disappear. (at least is does in my case)
Auto start of the active sync process:
This is caused by the DCD line pulled to Vcc. I first owned a standard GPS Y-cable (XDA/GPS/Lighter) and it showed the same behaviour. My first experiment was to not use the DCD line (just gnd, tx and rx)but at that time TomTom could not open the COM port. I did no further investigation but one of the forum members suggested to disable the IR connection and auto sync, this should free the com port to TomTom and not start active sync automatically. Again I have not tested it but if you will, i am interested.
Good luck,
francois
hi,
Been reading this thread with alot of interest...
can someone help me with a problem, I have the O2 carkit installed in my car, and i also have a rikaline 6010 that i would like to attach it.
I have found the GPS connector that i need to attach the GPS reciever to but when i check the connector for +5v its not there...
Does anyone know where i can connect it to... looks like the person who connect my carkit could'nt be bothered about connecting up the GPS connector properly...
and also the colour of wires that everyone mentions, mine are a different colour...
i have the following from my rikaline reciever, 4 in total...
red
black
green
white
does anyone know what connects to what????
Many Thanks
Zetex
Rikalinegps 6010 with cables - from eBay
This receiver is available with cable for XDA via eBay (see link below), but you guys have got me worried. I'm thinking of buying the Rikaline 6010 but am I going to have to do all this business of rewiring etc? What's the economical way of buying all the other bits that I need (Software, Car Kit etc)?
I'm looking for some easy to follow advice. Keep it simple please.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4668&item=3094896604&rd=1
:? :? :?
Hallo, I'm from germany and i've got an Laptop-GPS with RS232 and PS/2 conectors and i would like to know if there is any possibility to built an adaptercabel?
Then i don't have to buy a new GPS antenna.
Thanks for answering
If your gps is made by Haicom or similar, the adaptor lead containing power and data connections are only £15 here in UK, lot less trouble than obtaining an xda connector and trying to solder the connections, if you get power in the wrong place you have no xda or gps.
Hello,
my GPS is build by GARMIN. It's a GPS 35-LVS. I don't know, if it is similar to a Haicom. Maybe anyone else knows it.
You can use a serial cable + null modem adapter which is no problem.
The biggest problem for you is how to power the GPS.
I understand it is normally powered by PS2 so you need to find an adapter so that you can power it in car or use batteries.
You may be better off buying another GPS.
Hi PC-Mobile,
thanks for your answer, thats the way i supposed. In my opinion i can use a powersupply that makes 5V out of 12V. Than i get power for both, the XDA and the GPS.
Thats the cheapest way for me, the null-modem cabel i can build myself and seriel cabel is easy to buy.
Look here.
Regards, Tore
I received a Wing from T-Mobile yesterday and the device shipped with standard USB Mini connector (for sync/power) (rectangle with flared bottom) and a wall charger with the same typical mini USB connector. However, the connector on the phone is a similar rectangle shape, but has one diagonal corner, otherwise a perfect rectangle (while also some sort of mini USB connector, this connector is capable of handling audio in addition to sync and power...) It is the same jack that the headphones/mic fit into
In order to make this work, HTC packaged a small 1x1 node with a pigtail to convert the traditional flared mini USB connector to the new format connector.
Does anyone know where such a part might be able to be purchased? Or what the "name" of the connector is that I am describing? T-Mobile and HTC have both been rather useless and arrogant about the subject.
Thanks,
pmcooker said:
I received a Wing from T-Mobile yesterday and the device shipped with standard USB Mini connector (for sync/power) (rectangle with flared bottom) and a wall charger with the same typical mini USB connector. However, the connector on the phone is a similar rectangle shape, but has one diagonal corner, otherwise a perfect rectangle (while also some sort of mini USB connector, this connector is capable of handling audio in addition to sync and power...) It is the same jack that the headphones/mic fit into
In order to make this work, HTC packaged a small 1x1 node with a pigtail to convert the traditional flared mini USB connector to the new format connector.
Does anyone know where such a part might be able to be purchased? Or what the "name" of the connector is that I am describing? T-Mobile and HTC have both been rather useless and arrogant about the subject.
Thanks,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.hot-wire-telekom.de/index.php?aktion=detail&suche=HTC TyTN&asuche=HW132471 - an audioadapter
http://www.hot-wire-telekom.de/index.php?aktion=detail&suche=HTC TyTN&asuche=HW132233
Don´t know exactly what you mean? I´m using several USB cables and they all work.
If you want an adapter to use two usb (charge AND headset) HTC himselfe has one. And if you want an usb --> 2,5mm there are several on ebay.
FYI ... the new HTC USB connector is actually a standard Mini-USB with extra pins for analog audio. If you were to take your standard USB cable and plus it into the phone, it should work. The only thing you need the adapter for is to use the headset, which is unfortunate. All the adapter does is split off the USB signal from the audio signal.
At least, this is how I understand it. My Wing won't be here until Tuesday.
In the USA, the Wing ships with a 2-way splitter. One plug is for USB POWER, and the other for headset. Err... I don't know which, if either, DATA would go over, it's mainly intended for use in the car when you want to have it plugged in but use the headset also!
I need to order a smaller audio-converter... something that can go inline with my headphones without looking/feeling/being stupid-big.
Gurm said:
In the USA, the Wing ships with a 2-way splitter. One plug is for USB POWER, and the other for headset. Err... I don't know which, if either, DATA would go over, it's mainly intended for use in the car when you want to have it plugged in but use the headset also!
I need to order a smaller audio-converter... something that can go inline with my headphones without looking/feeling/being stupid-big.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ordered a converted from usb to 2.5mm from igonemobile for use on my Dash and my Wing. It's about 4 inches long, not too big in my opinion.
So far so good. 10 bucks, shipping included.
http://www.igonemobile.com/products/html/56115310.html
Hi everyone, Ok like many others on here I want to connect my mogul to my car stereo. I picked up a 2.5mm(M) to 3.5mm(F) L adapter and figured I could use the HTC provided Y-adapter that has the 2.5mm(F). After trying the setup I noticed it only functioned if I left part of the L adapter sticking out (photo attached).
Which of course led me to believe it has something to do with the built in mic function on the HTC adapter. I then came on the forum and saw everyone having the same issue and recommeding bending pins on after market adapters especially if they are running custom roms (im on dcd 4.1.2).
I have attached a photo to show that I do get sound when I have the adapter partially pulled out. What I wanted to know if there was a way to modify the HTC wire in order to get that adapter to function correctly?
I saw that gator2k83 was nice enough to snap shots of the wires without the insert for the 2.5mm jack here.
http://forum.ppcgeeks.com/showpost.php?p=603916&postcount=8
It would be great if I could get a picture of what the inside of 2.5mm female socket looks like.
Still don't get why the L adapter doesn't work. Is HTC wiring there 2.5mm headset different then other manufacturers?
Wow so no one can comment on why or how to make this work?
Does anyone know why for example the semons adapter 2-in-1 needs to have its pin modified if you are using a newer rom?
No need to modify anything. You just need to pick up a different 2.5mm to 3.5mm adapter that's made specifically for cellphones. I picked one up a while back at Radio Shack. I forget how much, but I don't think it was expensive. The main difference between the two adapters is that the cellphone one has three bands instead of two, one for the microphone part of the phone jack and the other two are for the L and R channels. Your adapter is only contacting the microphone and L channels which is why you are having this problem. Try the other adapter and you'll find it works great.
TGabriele thanks for the reply! So the cellphone specially made has 3 bands, ahhh now that makes sense. Thats why sticking it in partially makes it work because the 3rd band isn't making contact.
Cool I appreciate the reply
I'm interested in installing a pumpkin audio unit in my jeep for the primary purpose of audio, but secondarily triggering accessory relays for lights and other accessories. So far my search skills have not found anyone who has accomplished this with a head unit. I suspect there aren't any hard wire outs that can be utilized for this purpose, but thought maybe via wifi or bluetooth. Anyone heard of someone pulling this off?
From your post assume you want to supply other accessories when HU is powered on? Use sub output or antenna output to trigger 12v relay for this purpose.
marchnz said:
From your post assume you want to supply other accessories when HU is powered on? Use sub output or antenna output to trigger 12v relay for this purpose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well not looking to actually power the accessories, but just trigger a 12v relay to run high voltage accessories. lightbars, winches, rock lights etc. ideally an app that gets installed on the unit which can communicate to a relay board.. either through wifi or bluetooth or a direct wire or usb cable out the back of the unit.
You would have to find some sort of usb switch that has an android app.
Could be something completely unrelated to what you are doing as long as it triggers a ground or positive. Unfortunately i dont think any of these units have programmable switched outputs
sinnedone said:
You would have to find some sort of usb switch that has an android app.
Could be something completely unrelated to what you are doing as long as it triggers a ground or positive. Unfortunately i dont think any of these units have programmable switched outputs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Such a board exists Im a new poster so can't do hot link, But such a bluetooth relay board exists on amazon for about 20 bucks. Its really a question now if the headunit can install this app and communicate correctly with the board