Related
Introduction:
It's been over a year since the Streak 7 has been released, long enough that Dell has stopped selling it on their website, yet noone has released a legimitate disassembly guide yet.
Around launch time there was a video made showing the device being taken apart, what makes the video completely worthless is the fact they skipped all the most important steps of actually disassembling it and fast forwards though it till when it's nearly fully taken apart.
This guide will detail out all the steps to take it apart while attempting to minimize damage to it for reassembly.
Overall difficulty: 6/10
Without a guide: 11/10
Tools required:
Hair dryer [strongly recommended]
Very small torx screwdriver
Very fine plastic shim or xacto knife
Step 1: Removing the side bumpers
The two side bumpers cover the majority of the screws. The bumpers themselves are held on by a strip of adhesive tape and are also very brittle. The most obvious method to remove them is to heat each of the bumpers with a hair dryer to weaken the adhesive on them. After heating it multiple times it should hopefully weaken enough so that a thin plastic shim or xacto knife can be forced in from the edges.
Depending on the importance of minimizing cosmetic damage, this can be the longest step.
Summerized steps:
Heat bumpers until adhesive is weakened
Shove thing instrument underneath bumpers from outside edge
Pry off bumpers lengthwise to avoid snapping them
Caution:
The area near the capacitive buttons has an exposed ribbon cable, care must be used around that as the cable can be easily sliced.
The shiny plastic bumpers are VERY brittle and can easily snap if flexed any amount. It may take many re-heatings to remove them without damage
Excessive heat applied to the screen may damage the underlying LCD, it is recommended to slowly heat the bumpers in multiple runs to reduce the chance of damage.
Step 2: Removing the screws
List of screws:
2 visible screws under left bumper
3 visible screws under right bumper
1 screw hidden underneath capacitive sensing pad
2 screws hidden underneath white pads inside side flap
The screws underneath the flap might not be possible to remove without cosmetic damage. As they are underneath the flap this may be an acceptable trade-off.
Step 3: Seperating display from body
The display try is attached to the base by plastic clips on the tray, there are 3 clips on the left side that must be detached and then the display should be able to slide slightly leftwards(?) and then opened downwards.
Caution: When detaching the display be aware of the following cables:
One above the dock connector connecting the display itself
One towards the bottom left connecting the touch sensor
One just right of the buttons connecting their sensors
Step 4: Detach display cables
The cables are standard thin ribbon cables, the main display one has a latch while the two touch ones do not(?)
Step 5: Finish detaching the display from the base
The guide will end here and not go though removing the motherboard or other components from the base tray. They are all simply held on by multiple screws.
Step 6: Reassembly
Repeat steps 1-5 in reverse order.
Food for thought:
The differences between the Wifi and 3/4g models are:
Lack of modem
Lack of PCI-E slot for modem
Lack of sim card assembly
Lack of cell modem antenna assembly
It may be possible to solder on a new PCI-E and sim card assembly to turn a Wifi into a 3/4g model. The PCI-E slot is a standardized one while the sim card bay might be custom fitted to the S7. Swapping out the modems from the EU and US submodels is as simple as removing and replacing.
Acknowledgments:
Graffixnyc for donating a device to hack at with a screwdriver disassemble
FCC.gov for stock photos of the disassembeled pieces
Dell for making the Streak 7 held together ultimately by glue.
No thanks to the other teardown video for SKIPPING half of the most important steps
Shameless self-advertising:
The guide is still somewhat incomplete as when I recieved the donor S7 it was already badly damaged, also as I was working more or less blind it took even more damage in the disassembly. If I had a 2nd one to disassemble I might be able to do it with minimum damage.
-Reserved-
WOW!! Great job getting the Streak 7 apart. I would love to see the guts of the S7 in person.
Now we just need to get you a S7 that is in read-only mode so that you can try to open it up and figure out how to reset it. I am pretty sure that the Streak 7 I sent to Dell for a reset was the same one they sent back... but I do not see any physical signs of it being opened. I still have a hunch that they had to open it because they could not fix the problem over the phone. They had to re-flash it... I am not sure if the flash was required, but it makes me wonder if they had to replace the entire motherboard or internal storage drive.
Do you see the internal storage drive? Is it soldered on, or could it easily be replaced? Also, do you see a cmos type battery that could be removed and reinserted... or a jumper to reset the bios? I am not sure if tablet motherboards are anything like desktop motherboards.
Thanks theManii
I appreciate this, I have seen the video in question - and yeah, the most important sequences for disassembly were not included.
I do have a question in relation to #1. after warming the end trim pieces were you able to use your "shim" around the majority of the perimeter, or did you just come in from the inside by the screen to work these trim pieces loose?
I look forward to the pictures, it will make me a lot more comfortable in taking on the disassembly challenge, thanks again.
jydie said:
WOW!! Great job getting the Streak 7 apart. I would love to see the guts of the S7 in person.
Now we just need to get you a S7 that is in read-only mode so that you can try to open it up and figure out how to reset it. I am pretty sure that the Streak 7 I sent to Dell for a reset was the same one they sent back... but I do not see any physical signs of it being opened. I still have a hunch that they had to open it because they could not fix the problem over the phone. They had to re-flash it... I am not sure if the flash was required, but it makes me wonder if they had to replace the entire motherboard or internal storage drive.
Do you see the internal storage drive? Is it soldered on, or could it easily be replaced? Also, do you see a cmos type battery that could be removed and reinserted... or a jumper to reset the bios? I am not sure if tablet motherboards are anything like desktop motherboards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Everything but the modem card is soldered onto the board and the board itself has no jumpers.
crockashat said:
I appreciate this, I have seen the video in question - and yeah, the most important sequences for disassembly were not included.
I do have a question in relation to #1. after warming the end trim pieces were you able to use your "shim" around the majority of the perimeter, or did you just come in from the inside by the screen to work these trim pieces loose?
I look forward to the pictures, it will make me a lot more comfortable in taking on the disassembly challenge, thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I went from the outside as I had a xacto knife and was afraid of scratching the screen, I was pretty agressive with it since it was already scratched up. If you dont go very slowly you might end up discoluring the black plastic (though it's black on black and not hugely noticible)
I used the FCC internal photos to work off of when I did it:
3/4g internals
wifi internals
Originally Posted by TheManii>
I used the FCC internal photos to work off of when I did it:
3/4g internals
wifi internals
Thanks for the information, I will be attempting some surgery of the DS7 in the near future.
when I tried to open the links, they come up as:
You are not authorized to access this page.
not a big deal, I am mechanically inclined so I can figure out most things without too much destruction
Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages
Rewrote the guide, it's nearly complete except the lack of pictures highlighting the various things. Placeholders have already been placed summerizing what they will be of
best diagrams/pics on the 3G/4G linked page
TheManii said:
Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These links did work.
Actually both the internal and external photo PDFs have some useful information, and it appears that the more detailed information is in the link for the 3G/4G model.
Thanks again The Manii, appreciate all the helpful information, ROMs, etc.
TheManii said:
Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The FCC links work now! Thank you so much for fixing them. Those internal photos are very nice... still I would love to see one in person. I just love taking things apart to see whats inside... but I normally wait until they are dead or defective.
Looks like they use SanDisk for the internal storage... and it is indeed soldered to the board. So, I am not sure what they are doing when they "fix" Streak 7s stuck in read-only mode. Maybe they have to manually short out or complete a connection on the motherboard while re-flashing the internal storage?? Or... with the right equipment, could they actually remove the old flash drive and solder on a new one?
By the way, I like the redesigned layout for your guide. Thank you so, so much for taking the time to describe this process. I greatly appreciate it.
Did you happen to take a close look at the camera to see a S/N or make/model?
I havnt looked at any of the part numbers, I'll make a list when I make the photos to finish the guide
Unfortunately looking at the internal photos again, it looks like virtually all the major chips are underneath the two RF shields or have their own RF shield.
Pretty much the only visible chips are the touchscreen controller, possibly the sim card interface chip and one of the lcd driver chips.
I'm not willing to cut/remove the RF shields as they seem pretty secure, so I'm not gonna be able to pull part numbers off them.
What I'm left with now is a device with:
Demolished dock connector
Cut Capacitive button cable
Missing Flap
Extensive cosmetic damage
Only the cut cable was during the dissassembly though, rest was as-is.
I'm gonna take the final disassembly photos tomorrow then put the whole thing in storage.
hmmm...
I wonder if you would be interested in selling that poor streak for parts
I just bought a unit with a cracked digitizer...
finally added images to guide, I will have to go back some time later and double check it's accuracy.
It's been long enough I dont really remember the screw locations underneath the bumpers.
TheManii said:
finally added images to guide, I will have to go back some time later and double check it's accuracy.
It's been long enough I dont really remember the screw locations underneath the bumpers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the glass and screen one piece or will the gorilla glass come apart? I cracked the glass today and the screen itself isn't damaged at all. The unit works perfectly but has cracks on the glass.
Have you heard about sources for parts?
thanks in advance,
DC
The glass and lcd arnt bonded, there's an air gap.
I dont know about getting replacement parts, beyond the scope of the guide.
can you see a maker/model of the lcd? also the battery.
TheManii said:
The glass and lcd arnt bonded, there's an air gap.
I dont know about getting replacement parts, beyond the scope of the guide.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the guide, I'll use it when I find the glass to replace.
this is awesome.
been looking for such a guide since long time.
thanks!
So I decided to give this a teardown. First, I must say that I am impressed with the build quality of this device. This thing was not exactly the easiest in the world to take apart. The internals are all very solid, but there are surprisingly few "guts" inside this thing.
All images posted here will be smaller in size, but you can click the image to be taken to a larger image
First we'll start out with some software screenshots.
Product key is blanked out (sorry folks, not showing you that)
Quadrant Info
SetCPU CPU Info
SetCPU RAM Info
HARDWARE INSIDES!
Full System
Back Plate
Back of the screen
Screen Model?
Back USB Port
Back Board
Power Button (I like the new power button setup)
Power Button in place
Webcam
Speaker
Antenna
Volume Rocker (Notice that it is screwed in so it holds in place very well)
Metal Plate off the front of the board
Back of the board (plate off)
Close-up of RAM
Back of board components
(Same thing is posted over at the ArchosFans Forum).
Sorry that this really isn't Development, but there is no General G9 section.
thanks
i write a news on JBMM http://www.jbmm.fr/?p=25458
Thanks for posting this. Kind of strange that the antenna sits at the bottom.
Cooool...
Hey Harfainx,
amazing pics... you know i am a hardware freak
Excellent!
By looking at the components, there's no big surprise, pretty straight design.
Touchscreen manufacturer did not change...
I wonder about this:
http://www.pixcir.com.cn/english/products.asp?Action=Detail&ID=68
So it seems, it's still two-point multitouch.
Thanks a lot for posting this!!!
Regards,
scholbert
Park82 said:
Thanks for posting this. Kind of strange that the antenna sits at the bottom.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the confusion, the antenna is at the top-right of the device when it's put together.
In the pictures, I have the device opened up like a book. It's face down in this order in the first hardware picture:
Top-Back
Bottom-Back
Bottom-Front
Top-Front
So the bottom of the picture is the top of the front of the device.
ahh no my bad. I wonder where they managed to fit in the HDD for the 250GB model. Did you see the storage chip? or did I miss it
4 point touch, 2 true
scholbert said:
Touchscreen manufacturer did not change...
I wonder about this:
http://www.pixcir.com.cn/english/products.asp?Action=Detail&ID=68
So it seems, it's still two-point multitouch.
Thanks a lot for posting this!!!
Regards,
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems to be 4 point with 2 true touch points?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-YXq-jlOwOU
USB Port
The back USB Port behind the cover is coming out on my 80G9 when unplugging a cable f.e. is this correct? It moves 1cm from its normal position.
Cause on your pics I didnt saw that the USB Port is mounted on a sledge plate.
Or wasnt this visible to me.
It might be correct cause the back USB Port is connected to the main board with a cable ...
snowman7782 said:
The back USB Port behind the cover is coming out on my 80G9 when unplugging a cable f.e. is this correct? It moves 1cm from its normal position.
Cause on your pics I didnt saw that the USB Port is mounted on a sledge plate.
Or wasnt this visible to me.
It might be correct cause the back USB Port is connected to the main board with a cable ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes the USB is meant to move out slightly. The purpose is for the 3G dongle.
That Elpida chip is RAM and has CPU under it.
Which one of the ribbon cables carries the touch screen data? I have a non-responsive screen, Thanks.
Tweakurr said:
Which one of the ribbon cables carries the touch screen data? I have a non-responsive screen, Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The long white one. The brown is to LCD matrix.
The matrix and the touchscreen look as a single unit, however they can be separated. Remove the metal shield at the motherboard side, all additional boards (antennas etc.), and metal clamps on the short sides of of the panel. It appears as a single unit in a metal frame. Actually there is one frame attached to the front panel and touchscreen, and the other embracing the matrix. The latter frame is fixed within the former one with small metal clamps/holes on them. Just release them with a small screwdriver. Be careful not to leave your greasy fingerprints on the matrix - as for any optics, the more you try to clean it afterwards, the more you pollute it.
Proud to say that I broke my touchscreen and left the matrix fully operational. And found a man here in Moscow with exactly the opposite damage. And managed to assemble a single device out of the two. And it works! And no unrecognized spare parts left! And now I have a spare MB (with dead modem port, however) for Linux exercises, and a spare set of batteries - which seems to be quite useful in the future.
Is the screen completely dead? In my case, the crack was not across the whole glass, and the very edge of the screen (about 15% wide) remained operational. Thus I managed to rotate it so that it could be unlocked, and then use a USB mouse to set off the screen lock for the future. Once unlocked, it could be operaterd with a mouse instead of the TS.
iourine said:
The long white one. The brown is to LCD matrix.
The matrix and the touchscreen look as a single unit, however they can be separated. Remove the metal shield at the motherboard side, all additional boards (antennas etc.), and metal clamps on the short sides of of the panel. It appears as a single unit in a metal frame. Actually there is one frame attached to the front panel and touchscreen, and the other embracing the matrix. The latter frame is fixed within the former one with small metal clamps/holes on them. Just release them with a small screwdriver. Be careful not to leave your greasy fingerprints on the matrix - as for any optics, the more you try to clean it afterwards, the more you pollute it.
Proud to say that I broke my touchscreen and left the matrix fully operational. And found a man here in Moscow with exactly the opposite damage. And managed to assemble a single device out of the two. And it works! And no unrecognized spare parts left! And now I have a spare MB (with dead modem port, however) for Linux exercises, and a spare set of batteries - which seems to be quite useful in the future.
Is the screen completely dead? In my case, the crack was not across the whole glass, and the very edge of the screen (about 15% wide) remained operational. Thus I managed to rotate it so that it could be unlocked, and then use a USB mouse to set off the screen lock for the future. Once unlocked, it could be operaterd with a mouse instead of the TS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks very much for the reply. Sorry for the delay been on vacation and doing house remodeling. I will compare the cables tonight. The display is perfectly fine except for the touch sense. Just want to make sure the problem lies in the display panel.
Tweakurr said:
Thanks very much for the reply. Sorry for the delay been on vacation and doing house remodeling. I will compare the cables tonight. The display is perfectly fine except for the touch sense. Just want to make sure the problem lies in the display panel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd better check the cables and connectors only. If the trouble is in the touchscreen itself, or in its controller board (attached to the bottom side and bent around the LCD matrix - do not tear it off!), then surely you won't fix it at home. Hardly you will be able to replace the controller board alone, too. The only chance is to find another broken device for parts, as I did.
Thanks for the teardown pics, they are very interesting.
I was thinking if it would be possible to exchange the speaker to some better speaker.
Is this possible, did anyone perhaps already exchange the speaker?
Hey guys, I have read many reviews where people complain about overheating and excessive amount of heat from the phone localized in one area. Based on the tear down provided by ifixit, there looks to be no EMI shield over the CPU/memory chip area unless it was removed before the photo was taken. But either way, I see that when assembled there is the metal backing to the LCD directly above it which would really dissipate the heat well.
Why not purchase some thin thermal pads and apply as necessary to transfer the heat to the metal frame directly above it. Even if there is an EMI shield over it, open it up (unless it's soldered making it harder) and put the thin thermal pad in there and on the outside of the shield.
Seems like a very simple solution to fix a pretty big problem. I don't have my hands on a Nexus 4 and am unsure if I will in the future but if I ever do I will definitely try this and provide results and instructions on how to do the same.
Or LG could design the phone better.
johnny13oi said:
Hey guys, I have read many reviews where people complain about overheating and excessive amount of heat from the phone localized in one area. Based on the tear down provided by ifixit, there looks to be no EMI shield over the CPU/memory chip area unless it was removed before the photo was taken. But either way, I see that when assembled there is the metal backing to the LCD directly above it which would really dissipate the heat well.
Why not purchase some thin thermal pads and apply as necessary to transfer the heat to the metal frame directly above it. Even if there is an EMI shield over it, open it up (unless it's soldered making it harder) and put the thin thermal pad in there and on the outside of the shield.
Seems like a very simple solution to fix a pretty big problem. I don't have my hands on a Nexus 4 and am unsure if I will in the future but if I ever do I will definitely try this and provide results and instructions on how to do the same.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is not a bad idea actually, but i'm not too sure if the display will soffer about it
If only had a n4 to test it XD (i have some thermal pad lying around)
Venekor said:
Or LG could design the phone better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
InvalidUsername said:
Venekor said:
Or LG could design the phone better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We hack phones to try and make them work better on this website, did you know that?
Venekor said:
Or LG could design the phone better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While I agree with you, thermal pads are relatively cheap and the concerns about pressure on the LCD by another poster would be fine as long as you use a thinner thermal pad that doesn't compress too much after application. I have various thickness of thermal pads so as long as you use the correct one to apply just the right amount of pressure I can only see a large benefit from something so simple.
It would require opening the device and I am unsure if there are warranty voiding stickers in the phone. Some people are really happy with the phone and this is the only problem so I am merely just trying to provide a solution to the one problem remaining.
Thermal pads are to conduct heat from one surface (CPU) to another (heatsink). I can't say I agree with using the screen as a heatsink.
johnny13oi said:
While I agree with you, thermal pads are relatively cheap and the concerns about pressure on the LCD by another poster would be fine as long as you use a thinner thermal pad that doesn't compress too much after application. I have various thickness of thermal pads so as long as you use the correct one to apply just the right amount of pressure I can only see a large benefit from something so simple.
It would require opening the device and I am unsure if there are warranty voiding stickers in the phone. Some people are really happy with the phone and this is the only problem so I am merely just trying to provide a solution to the one problem remaining.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wasn't talking of the pressure but the heat that the backplade dissipate, maybe can damage the screen
I doubt it will help,
someone pointed out that the only trigger for thermal throttling is the battery temperature,
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=34224171&postcount=85
BakaPhoenix said:
I wasn't talking of the pressure but the heat that the backplade dissipate, maybe can damage the screen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, i would guess the space there is to keep the heat from the screen...
If this phone runs hot it is most likely due to the glass acting as an insulator. Is there any venting anywhere? I bet much of the thermal issue could be solved with a well placed vent..
sent via xda premium with nexus 7-Xbox live-loneleppard add me
While I can see concerns about damaging the LCD due to the heat but I imagine heat spread over the entire surface of the phone is much better than localizing a much more intense heat in a smaller area. LCDs can withstand a decent amount of heat and a small arm chip spreading heat over the entire surface of the phone would be very minimal to no effect on the LCD. I can see great potential for damage allowing the heat to be confined to a small area (just the CPU and RAM sitting on each other) with no heat spreader or heat sink.
Well I guess we won't be overclocking this phone anytime time soon. And you know I was really hoping I could finally fry me some bacon strips on my way to work.
johnny13oi said:
While I can see concerns about damaging the LCD due to the heat but I imagine heat spread over the entire surface of the phone is much better than localizing a much more intense heat in a smaller area. LCDs can withstand a decent amount of heat and a small arm chip spreading heat over the entire surface of the phone would be very minimal to no effect on the LCD. I can see great potential for damage allowing the heat to be confined to a small area (just the CPU and RAM sitting on each other) with no heat spreader or heat sink.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Air is a very good thermal isolator, i read that many desktop ips lcs have a maximum teamp. of 35/40 C° so if if the cpu heats a lot it can create problems. I don't know how much is the max temp that this ips can withstand tough.
BakaPhoenix said:
Air is a very good thermal isolator, i read that many desktop ips lcs have a maximum teamp. of 35/40 C° so if if the cpu heats a lot it can create problems. I don't know how much is the max temp that this ips can withstand tough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I really think this whole heat thing is a kernel issue at the moment. I remember owning the one x since very 1.26 or was it an earlier one? Either way, the phone would really get VERY hot. After a few updates i barely felt the heat. Maybe when playing games or whatever, all in all the updates solved the issue. I think google will manage to sort it out, i can't imagine them being that stupid.
I guess if you are concerned with the LCD becoming damaged then you could just put the thermal pad on the other side to make the whole motherboard (minus spring contacts) contact the glass back and spread the heat outside including the battery.
And yes air is a very good thermal insulator so all the heat is just getting trapped inside the phone. Gotta use some thermal pads to conduct that heat to a panel exposed to the outside.
These are all just suggestions that I would do if I were to have one in my hands right now.
johnny13oi said:
I guess if you are concerned with the LCD becoming damaged then you could just put the thermal pad on the other side to make the whole motherboard (minus spring contacts) contact the glass back and spread the heat outside including the battery.
And yes air is a very good thermal insulator so all the heat is just getting trapped inside the phone. Gotta use some thermal pads to conduct that heat to a panel exposed to the outside.
These are all just suggestions that I would do if I were to have one in my hands right now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The bottom line is if the SOC or N4 design is flawed internally which created thermal throttling, then there won't be much help for inserting thermal pads. I have tried this with HD2 when it had thermal runaway. There was a huge thread figuring out how to cure it by many methods as far as putting the motherboard in the oven to melt the soldering at exact time and temperature. The thermal pads method only decreased a few Fahrenheit which wasn't enough to cure if there was a thermal problems. My HD2's SOC was made by Qualcomm. Something definitely don't add up with bad benchmarks scores, thermal problems. Could future updates cure this? Only time can tell.
I've done something similar with my OCed Samsung i9000, but instead of using thermal pads, I used thermal paste. Similar to the Nexus 4 the cpu IC is sandwiched between the PCB and the metal chassis. The metal chassis becomes a massive heatsink for the CPU which dropped my CPU temp. by 10oC (~17oF) at maximum load.
After 9 months of use there hasn't been any damage or deterioration of the display screen (AMOLED).
Details can be found in the i9000 forum.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1605517
When I receive my Nexus 4 I plan to do something similar.
The only problem i can see with this method is warranty. I'm 100% sure that even if there is no warranty void stickers on the screws they won't accept to fix a phone that has been tinkered with
And try to wipe thermal paste without leaving any trace you will fail
Capt.PP said:
The bottom line is if the SOC or N4 design is flawed internally which created thermal throttling, then there won't be much help for inserting thermal pads.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not flawed as such, it is just overdimensioned.
In essence it is a double APQ8060A + quicker (more power hungry) GPU + additional management circuitry. So it should not surprise, that under full load (benchmarks) it burns through more than double of the usual dual core Krait phone power. While having similar dimensions/power dissipation capacity.
In their marketing Qualcomm positioned this SoC for Tablets. Now you have it in the phone. Is it bad? Not really, full power quadcore tasks is not a realistic task for a phone. And for a second or two (after this it does not matter anymore since your phone "lags") the existing cooling is perfectly adequate.
One thing where Qualcomm/LG/Google could do better are the GPU drivers. Which currently seem badly tuned.
Lg g4 thermal paste mod
This is my guide for applying thermal paste or pads to various parts of g4 to help disapate heat better.
i personally use Arctic silver About 12 dollars american at any radioshack.
1st of all I am not holding a gun to your head, Im not forcing anyone against there will if you are not comfortable tearing down your phone,
dont!!!!!!
In recent events of loads of g4s bootlooping.
I want to say i have a 10/15 g4 hardware rev 1.1 have had it nearly a year and so far no loop.
Prob wishful thinking but I want to say this may be why helps get rid of the heat off the old girl.
3 screens later, 2 camera lenes, and a leather back. still rooted on zv6 So up yours LG.
So lets get started
1st remove back cover and in my case i have a cell phone repair kit with the screw drivers and prys. Remove all the screws in the frame assambly. There are 11 of them.
2nd carefully pry the rear frame apart from the screen assambly.there are no wires to disconect yet. Do not force her apart she will come apart when all the clips are released.
3rd once the backplate is free there are 3 wire clips 1 on the camera one next to it for the light sensors and down near the bottom rite under the battery.
4th you can leave the camera module in just move the three wires slightly to the side and carefully remove the board flip it over and again carefully pry the big tin away from the board.
5th im a little eccentric so i applied the paste to all 5 chips underneith the tin just a very small dab goes a long way see in pics attached
6th when putting the tin back on make sure its lined up on all points.
this is also a common ground connector on most phones.
From here just reassmble and enjoy!!!!
Whole procsess took about 20 min
Before I started I was at 45 Celsius now after moderate usage to check temp 29 celsius.
Ive run the piss out of this phone. sold it twice and got it back wireless charge.
Shes a soldier.
To see what each circuit is, see step 8 here:
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/LG+G4+Teardown/42705
Rear-facing chips:
Avago ACPM-7717 Multiband Multimode Power Amplifier
Qualcomm WCD9330 Audio Codec
SlimPort ANX7816 Ultra-HD Transmitter
Qualcomm PM8994 Power Management IC
NXP 47883 NFC Controller
Samsung K3QF6F60AM-QGCF 3 GB LPDDR3 RAM
The Hexa-Core, 1.8 GHz Qualcomm Snapdragon 808 SOC is layered beneath the RAM.
Toshiba THGBMFG8C4LBAIR 32 GB NAND Flash
Broadcom BCM4339HKUBG 5G WiFi Client
Qualcomm PMI8994 Power Management IC
IDT P9025A Qi Wireless Power Receiver IC
Qualcomm WTR3925 LTE Transceiver
---------- Post added at 11:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:14 AM ----------
TheMadScientist420 said:
I place a ever so slight smudge of arctic silver on all 6 plus the larger black chip and so
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you clarify - did you put the thermal past *only* between those chips in your picture, and the little metal cover that goes over them? I can't tell if you also put it between the metal covers and the frame of the phone?
Yea i did a small smudge on each then i put the cover back on arctic silver is a pretty nonconductive paste i try not to put it on everything all sloppy but ive never had it liqufy and run any where either some people say it does i didnt put none on the frame or cover.
Im not familiar with this layoit either knowin my dumb arse i put it on the wrong chips but i went through my g3 and actually done a bunch of them in small doses of coarse throught the whole board
Kingfattys diagram is rite i couldnt find a diaram of the board so im partially wrong. I will update tonight ill do another tear down and take more pics
The proscessor is on the backside. Thats why i ask for help to im goin off a old setup.
Ofcoarse it never hurts to coat more chips all produce heat. Ill label the diagrams and do a complete guide rework tonight on my computer
figured id brink this back up on the thread list
so
Bump
dont know if its helped guys.
but so everyone knows i havnt had a bootloop issue on my g4 yet to date again knock on lgs synthetic leather.
there has been a lot of discussions of heat being the primary cause for the failed solder joints and maybe this helped maybe it didnt
What kind of temps are you getting when running antutu on tz_sensor13/14?
tbob18 said:
What kind of temps are you getting when running antutu on tz_sensor13/14?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me dl ot and run it i use 3c toolbox and max is usaually 45. Ive seen 55 or 60 but highly rare. I was using vr and charging together lol
Im runnin the test now
tbob18 said:
What kind of temps are you getting when running antutu on tz_sensor13/14?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here they are
TheMadScientist420 said:
Here they are
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's quite good. How long was that running?
tbob18 said:
That's quite good. How long was that running?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
7 or 8 min
TheMadScientist420 said:
7 or 8 min
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Using the stress test? Wow, I'm definitely going to add thermal paste. That's a good 15-20c lower than mine.
tbob18 said:
Using the stress test? Wow, I'm definitely going to add thermal paste. That's a good 15-20c lower than mine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
now if u look i pasted almost every flat chip on the front and back under the tins and everything i paste everything from my phones tablets ps3 ps4 pc even the heat sinks on my stereo
and i seem to have decent luck with my electronics so far.
ive replaced the screen on my g4 3 times now sold it 2 or 3 times and bought it back people loved it so much they went out and got g5s and v20s
dissambly is very easy straight foward other than no twrp and keep busting screen i love my g4
i just always keep a back up device just in case. of coarse i have one of the older ones so im stil on zv6 and rooted to the gills
tbob18 said:
Using the stress test? Wow, I'm definitely going to add thermal paste. That's a good 15-20c lower than mine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
just noticed your from chi town
born and raised in Gary IN moved to tn when i turned 18 now im in vermont the mountains of green state lol
TheMadScientist420 said:
now if u look i pasted almost every flat chip on the front and back under the tins and everything i paste everything from my phones tablets ps3 ps4 pc even the heat sinks on my stereo
and i seem to have decent luck with my electronics so far.
ive replaced the screen on my g4 3 times now sold it 2 or 3 times and bought it back people loved it so much they went out and got g5s and v20s
dissambly is very easy straight foward other than no twrp and keep busting screen i love my g4
i just always keep a back up device just in case. of coarse i have one of the older ones so im stil on zv6 and rooted to the gills
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I really like how the G4 feels and the camera is nice. But temps are crazy. LG seems to have really failed on that front, not to mention how it's all locked down now.
My G2 has been great for that last 3 and a half years, replaced the screen 3 times, battery is now failing though. I'll prob grab another screen as it's just a great, reliable device.
TheMadScientist420 said:
just noticed your from chi town
born and raised in Gary IN moved to tn when i turned 18 now im in vermont the mountains of green state lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice, I head over to the Indiana dunes area a lot in the summer, some nice places over there. :good:[
--
What do you get in antutu btw?
tbob18 said:
Yeah, I really like how the G4 feels and the camera is nice. But temps are crazy. LG seems to have really failed on that front, not to mention how it's all locked down now.
My G2 has been great for that last 3 and a half years, replaced the screen 3 times, battery is now failing though. I'll prob grab another screen as it's just a great, reliable device.
Nice, I head over to the Indiana dunes area a lot in the summer, some nice places over there. :good:[
--
What do you get in antutu btw?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
id have to run it again didnt even pay attantion
mines loaded with loads of crap on it im sure it was pretty low
ive never been one to really go off benchmark scores just numbers to me like ive got a old one loaded up youve got a new one probly still fairly clean
im more into actual real life usage fluidity
i know mine has no lag doesnt overheat and is still fairly smooth running
still handles the gear vr pretty damn good
TheMadScientist420 said:
id have to run it again didnt even pay attantion
mines loaded with loads of crap on it im sure it was pretty low
ive never been one to really go off benchmark scores just numbers to me like ive got a old one loaded up youve got a new one probly still fairly clean
im more into actual real life usage fluidity
i know mine has no lag doesnt overheat and is still fairly smooth running
still handles the gear vr pretty damn good
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I'm not one for benchmarks either, but it can give an idea of the health of the hardware. I did notice lower scores on some G4's I think it may be because of throttling due to overheating though. I get around 70,000, if I put a little pc fan next to it, it gets 71,500.
Copper Heat Sink is the way to go
Copper Heat Sink works the best. There is a video on Youtube, just search youtu.be/G3dQdS1b0aw
CellphonePro said:
Copper Heat Sink works the best. There is a video on Youtube, just search youtu.be/G3dQdS1b0aw
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice video. Summary of procedure:
1) open the phone to reveal the circuit board
2) remove the large metal shroud or plate covering the processor chip and memory chips
3) cut out and remove a section of the large metal shroud that would normally cover the processor chip
3) get a piece of "heatsink tape" (e.g., thermal tape, he uses a tape with copper on top and adhesive on the bottom) and cut it to fit on the top of the memory chip, apply it to the memory chip
4) replace the large metal shroud over the chip - this covers and sandwiches the thermal tape on the memory chip under the shroud, while exposing the processor chip due to the hole you cut in step 3) above
5) apply another section of large thermal tape over the exposed processor to extend beyond the processor to the sides, covering over the metal shroud too (*this I disagree with, see below*)
6) apply a small section of thermal tape over the metal shroud located where the memory chip is located
Disagreement issue: there is a gap/divot over the processor, which will no longer make stiff contact with the frame when you assemble the phone. You can see the divot around 13:00 of the video, how the thermal tape "dips" in over the processor.
To fix, I'd add step between 4 and 5:
4.5) apply a small section of thermal tape directly over the naked processor to serve as a shim - just copy step 3) by applying the same procedure to the processor, not just the memory chip
By giving the processor the same covering of thermal tape as you did the memory chip, you will make sure the tape from step 5) that lays across the metal shroud and processor, will now be flat and not have a divot, to ensure good pressure/contact between the frame and the processor when you install the frame
Hi, some time ago when i was dissasembling my Nexus 6 due to a camera replacement, i accidentally broke an smd component below the camera that is part of the screen well it only detached one pin ftom the two it has so i suited it in his place again and attached back the yellow transparent tape it has, i proceeded to reassemble the phone and all went good except when i low the brightness to certain point it starts to show Green lines and distortion but at a normal ir not so low brightness there Is no problem, Also i noticed an high amperage consumption and consequently a low battery duration i suppose it happens due to the broken component and want your advice if i should weld it again, it is very small and Is surrounded by many components as the same i broke, should i use heat gun? Or a soldering iron ? Tin welding or liquid welding, or i just should heat the welding the component has and set it again un his place? There Is a photo of What im talking about (the photo Is from a broken screen i have but it shows the components)
http ://i.imgurcom/h4TemYN. png
Just add the point after imgur and delete the spaces to see the image, im not available to put links Yet.
Lots of questions to ask here, so I'm going to just get to it.
1. What is the wattage rating of your soldering iron?
2. Is your soldering iron a pencil type or gun type?
3. How small is the tip?
4. Did you apply any extra solder in attempting your repair?
The wattage of the soldering iron and its type are critically important. Too much heat and you could destroy the component. Also, the damage here could be to the board itself and not the component. When one side lifted from the board it could have pulled up the solder pad the component was sitting on, breaking the trace underneath. What I'd need to see, prior to you doing anything else, is a picture of the actual board you worked on.
My advice? I would get a new screen. The fact of the matter is that you shouldn't have taken a soldering iron to the component as you could easily have burned the board and burned out the component. In such a confined area you could also have accidentally created a solder bridge, which could also cause the issues you're seeing. What you should have used was a heat gun set to 300 degrees celsius. Hold the heat gun one inch above the surface and turn it on, holding it steady for one minute. So long as no traces were broken in the initial mishap, this would allow the solder to liquify and restore the connection between component and board.*
*A heat gun is what I used to repair my Dell Inspiron 15, by applying steady heat to the GPU for a minute. This caused the solder balls making the connection to liquify and restore the connection with the motherboard. Two years later and the laptop still works.
It s an easy job with the right equipment ,and being a technician . Only trouble I can think off is to find the same component but since you have a broken screen it should be easy. I think if you have no experience you can seriously ruin your display. Bring it disassembled to a technician with the component to remove and solder back from the broken display . It's an easy job and I wouldn't charge more than 10€ to resolder it from the broken one to the working one. Elsewhere if you want to do it by yourself you need an hot air rework station and a good flux to recover the component from the ko display , and then a fine tip to solder it back ( a good flux is your friend ) . Don't use hot hair to mount the component to the new display, you can screw the flex cable, it's really delicate
@Axel85: I don't agree that it's necessary to be a technician to replace a surface mount component. The OP can do the job if he has a low-wattage soldering iron or a variable wattage model. I do agree that flux is a good idea however. I honestly wish I had some when I was repairing my laptop, but I also got lucky. The heat gun I thought would have been better for the initial repair, because I thought this might have been an actual board on the underside of the display that the ribbon cables connected to. Thus the soldering iron was the right choice.
The problem here is that he didn't post a picture of his work, so we can't see what's been done to the board. For all we know the pad lifted off the board, which broke the trace. He could have burned the board by using a high-wattage soldering iron. He could have destroyed the component with the soldering iron. If he used additional solder he could have accidentally bridged the connection. There are simply too many unknowns here to present an informed opinion.
Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
@Axel85: I don't agree that it's necessary to be a technician to replace a surface mount component. The OP can do the job if he has a low-wattage soldering iron or a variable wattage model. I do agree that flux is a good idea however. I honestly wish I had some when I was repairing my laptop, but I also got lucky. The heat gun I thought would have been better for the initial repair, because I thought this might have been an actual board on the underside of the display that the ribbon cables connected to. Thus the soldering iron was the right choice.
The problem here is that he didn't post a picture of his work, so we can't see what's been done to the board. For all we know the pad lifted off the board, which broke the trace. He could have burned the board by using a high-wattage soldering iron. He could have destroyed the component with the soldering iron. If he used additional solder he could have accidentally bridged the connection. There are simply too many unknowns here to present an informed opinion.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes we need pictures... It's not a board, it's fully a flat, so hot hair could ruin the flex even if you move it flat to a dashboard, you can't even imagine how easy is to break those flex. More than this with hot air and amoled displays you have to be really careful, those types off display are delicate too. For the fact that it could be able to solder back the component , if he can is ok, but to do a perfect job you must have experience ,the matrix of components on the flex is very tight . It's better to bring it to a technician than try to do something you can't do... It's 10€ Vs a screen replacement of 180. If he has experience , better for him, for me would be an easy job.
You should also consider that the use of the display without the component could ruin. Something else on the motherboard
@Axel85: Just to clarify, I'm not saying he shouldn't bring it to a tech. Just that it isn't necessary to be a tech to do such a repair. I agree that he'd be much better off taking it to a tech, though I think it's too late and the damage has already been done.
Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
@Axel85: Just to clarify, I'm not saying he shouldn't bring it to a tech. Just that it isn't necessary to be a tech to do such a repair. I agree that he'd be much better off taking it to a tech, though I think it's too late and the damage has already been done.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I understand but I can tell you its harder than you think, you must have a good skills with soldering iron to resolder this component inside this matrix of others.
We need to know more about him and get damaged area pictures to evaluate an answer
@Axel85: Preaching to the choir.
IOW, I agree.
Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
Lots of questions to ask here, so I'm going to just get to it.
1. What is the wattage rating of your soldering iron?
2. Is your soldering iron a pencil type or gun type?
3. How small is the tip?
4. Did you apply any extra solder in attempting your repair?
The wattage of the soldering iron and its type are critically important. Too much heat and you could destroy the component. Also, the damage here could be to the board itself and not the component. When one side lifted from the board it could have pulled up the solder pad the component was sitting on, breaking the trace underneath. What I'd need to see, prior to you doing anything else, is a picture of the actual board you worked on.
My advice? I would get a new screen. The fact of the matter is that you shouldn't have taken a soldering iron to the component as you could easily have burned the board and burned out the component. In such a confined area you could also have accidentally created a solder bridge, which could also cause the issues you're seeing. What you should have used was a heat gun set to 300 degrees celsius. Hold the heat gun one inch above the surface and turn it on, holding it steady for one minute. So long as no traces were broken in the initial mishap, this would allow the solder to liquify and restore the connection between component and board.*
*A heat gun is what I used to repair my Dell Inspiron 15, by applying steady heat to the GPU for a minute. This caused the solder balls making the connection to liquify and restore the connection with the motherboard. Two years later and the laptop still works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. 60 watts the thin soldering iron, 140 watts the gun one , i have other pencil soldering iron of 30 watts
2. I have both
3. I don't have the specifications but is very thin
4. No i just suited the component in his place and put back the yellow tape
5.- The board is all right i also confirmed it (The component i broke is part of the LCD)
6.- I've already posted a link to the image because i can't post links or images yet, there is again : http ://i.imgur.com/h4TemYN. png (just copy and paste in the search bar and delete the blank spaces in the link to see the image)
7.- All right then i will try it
Thank you so much for your advice :good:
@BRMX7: Read the rest of the thread before doing anything.
1. You should be using no more than 30 watts on small electronics. 60 watts for your pencil iron is too hot and will have likely fried the component. I hope you didn't try using the gun on this, which leads to my second question.
2. Which one did you use to make this repair? I hope it wasn't the gun, because you may have done far more damage than you can see.
3. Post a picture.
4. Good. That eliminates the possibility of a solder bridge. Though there may still be damage you can't see, especially to the component itself.
5. How can you confirm it based solely on sight? On the rare occasions where I needed to get up close to the work, I had both a 16x and 20x jeweler's loupe handy (most recently when I was repairing my car remote).
6. According to your post, the image you posted is not of the screen you worked on, but a second screen that was already broken. @Axel85 and I both want to see a picture of the screen you worked on. If what you posted is the screen you worked on, make that clear.
7. See the opening sentence of this post.
Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
@BRMX7: Read the rest of the thread before doing anything.
1. You should be using no more than 30 watts on small electronics. 60 watts for your pencil iron is too hot and will have likely fried the component. I hope you didn't try using the gun on this, which leads to my second question.
2. Which one did you use to make this repair? I hope it wasn't the gun, because you may have done far more damage than you can see.
3. Post a picture.
4. Good. That eliminates the possibility of a solder bridge. Though there may still be damage you can't see, especially to the component itself.
5. How can you confirm it based solely on sight? On the rare occasions where I needed to get up close to the work, I had both a 16x and 20x jeweler's loupe handy (most recently when I was repairing my car remote).
6. According to your post, the image you posted is not of the screen you worked on, but a second screen that was already broken. @Axel85 and I both want to see a picture of the screen you worked on. If what you posted is the screen you worked on, make that clear.
7. See the opening sentence of this post.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. Okay i will use it in 30 watts it is a variable welding station
2.I haven't done anything first i asked for advice before doing any repairment on it.
3. i did it (i will post one of the damaged one)( I didn't posted one of the damaged one because i'm using it right now and i haven't my tools at the hand to dissasembly it and take the picture) looks exactly the same than the damaged one because the indicated component in the image is in the same place but just with the right pin detached .
4. I will have care
5-6. I confirmed it using a variable power supply and a multimeter doing various proceedures to know what was the problem, testing if the power consumption was problem of any component or the screen, also checked it with a flir thermal camera of a friend and it was all right in the board.
BRMX7 said:
1. Okay i will use it in 30 watts it is a variable welding station
2.I haven't done anything first i asked for advice before doing any repairment on it.
3. i did it (i will post one of the damaged one)( I didn't posted one of the damaged one because i'm using it right now and i haven't my tools at the hand to dissasembly it and take the picture) looks exactly the same than the damaged one because the indicated component in the image is in the same place but just with the right pin detached .
4. I will have care
5-6. I confirmed it using a variable power supply and a multimeter doing various proceedures to know what was the problem, testing if the power consumption was problem of any component or the screen, also checked it with a flir thermal camera of a friend and it was all right in the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The best way than is to recover the component from the old broken display flex and solder it back in place . If you ripped off the solder pad you can search where it goes with the tester, you just need to expose a little point of the solder pad way ,and then make a bridge