I have an off brand Android head unit in my truck. A MCWAUTO 7.1 2GB quad core. It’s in a Ram truck. I can not for the life of me get the backup camera working. The Canbus doesn’t trigger it to come on (yes it’s wired correctly) I even tried using the “reverse-in” wire connected to the backup lights positive wire. Checked is with a volt meter to confirm power. The screen stays on the home screen. No errors. There is no settings in the setup menus to turn on like there is on a WinCe unit.
If I didn’t have it wired correctly, using the reverse-in wire with power I would at least get a no camera error.
Any info would be helpful.
Related
Hey guys, here is my review of the CHOETECH Emergency Waterproof Flashlight+5200mAh Rechargeable Power Bank. I've found it to not only be a great portable charger for our beloved Note 5, but a useful tool on the road.
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I have my new head unit being shipped to me as I speak. I am going to need to root it and a few other things. I wanted to be able to do this inside my home so I am not stuck in the car for hours while it is cold outside.
How do I power the stereo inside my home so I can configure and set everything up?
This probably doesnt matter but the head unit is this one....
http://www.autopumpkin.com/car-dvd-...-touch-screen-3g-wifi-dvb-t-support-obd2.html
1) Setup the radio in your house before installing it in your vehicle. Get a 12V power supply and connect it to the included radio harness (antenna, 12v-->batt/ign, ground and either speakers or headphones).
2) If you have a vehicle remote start, sure you can 'power' the radio, but unless you can totally control your radio from a computer, you cannot configure it from outside of the car (because so many features require physically touching buttons or a HID simulating touchscreen touch).
zzEvilGeniuszz said:
I have my new head unit being shipped to me as I speak. I am going to need to root it and a few other things. I wanted to be able to do this inside my home so I am not stuck in the car for hours while it is cold outside.
How do I power the stereo inside my home so I can configure and set everything up?
This probably doesnt matter but the head unit is this one....
http://www.autopumpkin.com/car-dvd-...-touch-screen-3g-wifi-dvb-t-support-obd2.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Connect yellow and red wire to +12 volt and the black to - or ground, i.e in the loom supplied with your kit. Then you can setup basically everything except steering wheel control. Download everything you need from Google play and install it before you put it into your car. You can't setup the radio because you will lose the stations when you power down the yellow wire. Yellow wire is always hot(connected) in your car.
Anyway connect the supplied GPS antenna and verify it's working on your bench. Set the correct time zone and time and date and so on.
Hotwire an ATX power supply, usually green to black will be the correct wiring for sending the "power ok" signal. Do an image search on ATX pinout if unsure, the wire you need to ground is usually labeled something along the lines of "PWR_OK".
When that's done connect yellow (12V) from the ATX PSU to both the yellow (power/acc) and red (acc/power) on the head unit connector with an offset tab for the safety latch (not the one with a centered tab, that one is for speaker connections). Which wire goes to power and which goes to acc (ignition key signal) will differ between models, you will need to know which is which later anyway so you might as well find out at this point. Insulated alligator clips might work fine as long as you don't move the connectors. Black goes to black (ground).
Always remember to connect the low voltage stuff first and then connect the wall socket. It's a pain but it keeps you from frying stuff while making connections. If your ATX PSU has a switch (most do but random ones you find for free might not) then those are ok to use as long as you're careful not to push the PSU around.
This is why I keep old PSUs from computers, cheap and clean 5V (red cables) and 12V (yellow cables). Most can handle a lot of load as well (I've seen a few labeled 30A on 12V).
Even though the head unit already has one, use an in-line fuse from PSU to the head unit. I'd even go so far as to keep blowing low ones as I built up from 5amp to whatever would just barely last (but I have about 100 lying around).
I'm having all sorts of problems with my head unit
Firstly, if I connect the speakers up then I get a high pitched tone through the speakers at all times. Bizarrely if I connect the white and grey cables together on the car side (ie not the head unit side) then everything seems to work. But that makes no sense.
Secondly, the buttons along the left hand side do nothing. I've been into the factory setting and tried to "retrain" it. Although I can see it reacting to the retraining nothing happens after I've finished, the buttons still don't work
Thirdly, the ACC mode does not seem to work. I've monitored with a multimeter and it doesn't matter whether there is a voltage on the ACC or not the unit turns on when there is power on the yellow cable and turns off when I disconnect that cable. I can connect this cable directly to the ignition feed but then it gets no chance to shut down when I turn off the ignition.
Fourthly, and this may not help the above. If I select shut down from the menu on the device it does nothing.
As it is this unit is pretty much useless. Whats going on? Are the cables badly labelled perhaps?
What did the reseller suggest?
Apparently they won't be back till the 4th
Hmm .. so I took it out and plugged it back in on my lap, rather than in the radio hole ... and it worked perfectly. A few oddities (such as tune in radio not working at first) but that resolved itself almost instantly.
I can only assume I hadn't plugged the black plug on the back in correctly.
*Fingers crossed it stays this way*
I m afraid youre in the wrong forum - Joying/Joyous RK3368/PX5 head units are not MTCD/E, theyve stopped making MTCD/E units completely and they never made RK336/PX5 MTCD/E units at all.
I ll get the thread moved to the Android Headunit General forum.
1. the gray and white cables are for the front speaker. the high tones are the keypad tones. you have to deactivate it in the user menu (amp must be deactivated in factory menu). the keypad tone only comes via front speaker, not magenta and green cables for the rear speaker.
2. try reflashing the firmware?
3. red is ACC, yellow is constant battery. your device is running without connect the red ACC cable?
4. with shutdown button it ONLY shutoff the display backlight and drain further 600mA. doesnt?
read the Joying intel sofia all you need to know thread. not all is same on the PX5, but its really interesting.
PS, i have the PX5 too, but have other problems like you
Hello,
I got a Pumpkin Android Radio one year ago, it works fine.
A few weeks ago the touchscreen turned black, backlight is on, touchscreen works (touching the screen is recognized by the OS, music is playing,), but it shows nothing.
I know a bit where the "touch-buttons" used to be. I can rarely use the unit with touching in the right places to get music to play.
The only thing I did, was reposition the GPS mouse in my car maybe one week before the screen went black.
I only moved the mouse, I dont touched the radio at all.
I installed also an App to show the connected GPS-sattlelites the week before.
I don't know what happened.
I had no time to look up the failure, so I leave it 2 weeks with this error, and sometimes the display showed up again after 30min, sometimes after 5 min.
Really strange.
I am an electrician, so i thought that there must be two foil-ribbon cables for the display, one for touch, one for the display, the display cable must be loose.
I opend the unit but both connectors where in place and fixed with a drop of adhesive.
I looked a bit around.
On some point I found a soft switch button falling out the unit onto my desk.
At first it looks like an SMD coil, but it is a switch, like the ones from the front tactile buttons.
It looks like it breaks of the solder pads, but only on one side, the other side had no solder on it.
I checked all the boards but no switch button is missing.
I am not shure where the button came from, but it fall out of the unit, as i was looking around and shifting and tilting it.
My conclusion: They lost a switch in the factory and it fall into my unit. By car vibrations this stupid useless button shorted out some connection and now the display path is broken somehow.
So what i did so far, without fixing the problem and without breaking something, the unit is still working with the black screen and operation by blind touching works:
- checked the reverse input switching
- opend the unit
- checked the boards optically
- removed all foil ribbon cables
- DVD
- display "data"
- display touch
- main foil ribbon cable from the mainboard to the front daughter board
- small foil ribbon cable from the mainboard to the front daughter board
- ribbons from the daughter board to the two outer boards with the soft switch buttons
- I carefully disassembled the display unit, its a HannStar 721CT10255-A0 or WD010GHL40AE-D5
- resoldered some connections between on the "ribbon cable interconnection" between the original TFT and the "HannStar"-Connector
- I dismounted the daughter board an cleaned it with a board cleaner (some flux where left from the factory)
- I clean all ribbon cable connectors with a contact cleaner
- I dismounted the PX5 head board and cleaned all connections with contact cleaner
- I resoldered the doughter board with hot air and all ribbon cable connectors between the daughter board an the mainboard
- I resoldered the pins on the head unit with a small tip soldering iron
I looked up my flying around 7" Displays but they are not compatible.
I am not familiar with these units, but as i understand it:
The video signal from the head unit gets to the STM32F091 chip, gets muxed (rear camera, Aux, etc.).
after that it is send directly to the display.
On the daughter board there is a CHRONTEL 7026B-TF, but if i look up the pinout of this chip, its not connected to the display, as far as I can tell.
I am now at a point where it might be the extra useless button that killed something by shorting out some traces, the display itself is broken, the STM chip died on the display pins, or its not a hardware problem.
Is there anything I can test to determinate if its a hard- or a software problem?
Thanks for your help and I will appreciate your support.
( i have some pictures, but I am not allowed to post them)
Now i checked the connector of the Display with an oszilloskop.
I could not find a datasheet for the "D5" of the Display, but i found a WD070GHL40AE-C3 from "HannStar" which look quiet similar.
The shown pinout matches the design on the board.
I found out, that the CLK Frequency is 1213 kHz and the RGB Input are all in sync with the clock frequency.
That makes no sense to me.
I followed up the traces on the board, and they go directly to the head board (PX5).
There is a parallel chip (GM8284DD) to the RGB and CLK line, but it seems that this chip takes the signals and converts them to the Chrontel, but I can't find any datasheet.
So it a software problem or the graphics unit has died ... any suggestions?
I just bought Dasaita HA2153-MAX6 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33010915960.html
After some testing I didn't like that screen was less responsive than on my old one leading to bunch of typing mistakes, button were hard to press, there was light leak from buttons onto screen and also some constant background noise in right side speakers. I decided that I will be returning it, pulled out and put my old one back in.
Then I realised I hadn't done factory reset and cleared personal data on Dasaita. So I put it back in, car batter was unplugged. I connected the the main power harness without any other cables like antenna, mic, rear cam etc. After connecting batter and turning on ignition key, there was noise of sparks inside and burn smell. Of course I immediately turned off ignition.
This caused a a fuse to blow in engine compartment, but somehow the fuse in the head unit itself was intact. Any idea how could this happen?
I replaced the fuse and put back my old head unit which works as before.