NuI have been messing with my cappy since 2.1 gone up to JB and flashed numerous times. My problem occurred while trying to find a way to mobile odin or some form of no pc flash to try stock GB. I need that method because I have no USB function or port at this point. Including the tiny piece mobo attaching it which in turn took out headset jack function. Which also took out speaker function except notification. Soundabout helped that problem. Anyway sometime during those flashes I started getting weird color issues which up til now I have been pretty sure was a software issue. The phone booted in random colors, sometimes boot screen was upside down, sometimes the picture placement was off. Now the colors are just all off. Almost negative like and barely visible unless full brightness. It usually fixed after reboot or lockscreen. I found that disconnecting and reconnecting the display fixed it every time...Until literally the very day my main phone was taken off me. Now the display has been stuck like that ever since that day. How cruelly ironic.
I'm still hoping it's just software at a deep level. But until I send off for a new usb port "because I cannot manage soldering such tiny parts on my own at all" and hopefully they can fix the end and usb port i cannot flash it.
Edit: I pretty much only have blue and green atm. And black. The color tuning option in the rom settings won't open either. I am currently Crom-S4 style
Edit2:Now after days I make a post and red just kicked in. The screen is more visible, but its a jumble of the three colors. Not correct tuning.
I have my new head unit being shipped to me as I speak. I am going to need to root it and a few other things. I wanted to be able to do this inside my home so I am not stuck in the car for hours while it is cold outside.
How do I power the stereo inside my home so I can configure and set everything up?
This probably doesnt matter but the head unit is this one....
http://www.autopumpkin.com/car-dvd-...-touch-screen-3g-wifi-dvb-t-support-obd2.html
1) Setup the radio in your house before installing it in your vehicle. Get a 12V power supply and connect it to the included radio harness (antenna, 12v-->batt/ign, ground and either speakers or headphones).
2) If you have a vehicle remote start, sure you can 'power' the radio, but unless you can totally control your radio from a computer, you cannot configure it from outside of the car (because so many features require physically touching buttons or a HID simulating touchscreen touch).
zzEvilGeniuszz said:
I have my new head unit being shipped to me as I speak. I am going to need to root it and a few other things. I wanted to be able to do this inside my home so I am not stuck in the car for hours while it is cold outside.
How do I power the stereo inside my home so I can configure and set everything up?
This probably doesnt matter but the head unit is this one....
http://www.autopumpkin.com/car-dvd-...-touch-screen-3g-wifi-dvb-t-support-obd2.html
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Click to collapse
Connect yellow and red wire to +12 volt and the black to - or ground, i.e in the loom supplied with your kit. Then you can setup basically everything except steering wheel control. Download everything you need from Google play and install it before you put it into your car. You can't setup the radio because you will lose the stations when you power down the yellow wire. Yellow wire is always hot(connected) in your car.
Anyway connect the supplied GPS antenna and verify it's working on your bench. Set the correct time zone and time and date and so on.
Hotwire an ATX power supply, usually green to black will be the correct wiring for sending the "power ok" signal. Do an image search on ATX pinout if unsure, the wire you need to ground is usually labeled something along the lines of "PWR_OK".
When that's done connect yellow (12V) from the ATX PSU to both the yellow (power/acc) and red (acc/power) on the head unit connector with an offset tab for the safety latch (not the one with a centered tab, that one is for speaker connections). Which wire goes to power and which goes to acc (ignition key signal) will differ between models, you will need to know which is which later anyway so you might as well find out at this point. Insulated alligator clips might work fine as long as you don't move the connectors. Black goes to black (ground).
Always remember to connect the low voltage stuff first and then connect the wall socket. It's a pain but it keeps you from frying stuff while making connections. If your ATX PSU has a switch (most do but random ones you find for free might not) then those are ok to use as long as you're careful not to push the PSU around.
This is why I keep old PSUs from computers, cheap and clean 5V (red cables) and 12V (yellow cables). Most can handle a lot of load as well (I've seen a few labeled 30A on 12V).
Even though the head unit already has one, use an in-line fuse from PSU to the head unit. I'd even go so far as to keep blowing low ones as I built up from 5amp to whatever would just barely last (but I have about 100 lying around).
Hi all,
Last weekend I tried to fix the GPS on my Xperia Z (C6603) - it couldn't lock any satellite and according to all tests it was a hardware problem. When I opened the back cover I saw that the GPS antenna wasn't securely attached anymore (thanks to the third party who replaced my screen last summer I guess). While I was at it, I also wanted to check the speaker since the volume is generally quite low. Doing so I had some difficulty getting the battery out but it didn't look like anything was damaged by it.
I fixed the GPS antenna and reassembled the phone, but now it won't boot anymore...
When I try to boot it the LED blinks red three times and then stops. Nothing more. It only seldomly responds to a cold reset (vol up + power for 10 sec.) but mostly not. When I connect it to the wall socket or laptop the LED burns red continuously.
When I opened the phone I still had about 70% battery left so that should be fine. Nevertheless I've had it on a charger overnight (LED continuously red) and tried the next morning without success.
What I have found is that the red LED indicates either a broken bootloader or a hardware fault. Since it occurred after I opened the phone I would assume the latter.
I have managed to do a repair through the PC Companion software but without result. I can still get the phone in fastboot (LED turns blue) connected to my laptop to flash. The screen doesn't turn on, though I'm not sure if it should? I'm also not sure if being able to connect in fastboot excludes hardware failure?
I haven't tried to root/flash because I first want to ask for some advice on a more systematic approach to fixing it. Also, tonight I will pick up a friend's Xperia Z with a broken screen for spare parts (same model, he got it one month later). So except for the screen I have working replacement parts. Besides the screen replacement (with original Sony parts) the phone was still in original state both in hard- and software.
I would really like to fix the phone since I liked it and I'm stuck to a SIM-only plan until December still. Third-party repair is out of the question because of costs; then I'd rather spend it on a new XZ5.
Any ideas on how I should approach this?
After some trial and error, I have managed to flash a stock ROM (.253) on it. No luck with that unfortunately. When I try to turn it on, there is a small vibration after a few seconds and that's it. Again the phone responds to a cold reset, but when I try to boot it after the LED blinks red three times again. That's all it does.
I would say the only thing to still try now is swapping the motherboard with the other phone, not? Or are there any other suggestions?
Well, I would assume that it is a hardware problem, especially taking in to the account that you touched components inside.
Even if we all know how phone work, and where are all components are, its not recommended to touch anything inside if you dont have steady hand and environment to make any repair(clean place, no humidity, clean hands).
One bad plugged connector can brick your phone. One time I even had problem on other phone with really small rust on one pin that I touched with finger(sweat from it+time+really crappy weather where I had to use it), so it show how actually fragile phones are.
But few questions, when you managed to flash rom, you get all that android logo when you are in flashmode, and it show everything(loading bar etc) on screen?
Im asking because first symptom of bad battery connection is deformed or totally dead screen.
When you fixed gps antenna(that black plastic on top near camera) you used any tool that could damage board? its near microUSB so its easy to mess those small pins and make short circuit.
The same with battery, you could try to squeeze/move it a bit to see if there is any changes in phone boot behavior(not to gentle way to check it but sometimes it show if there is a problem)
Before changing motherboard I would replace battery from your other phone(charged before that) and check all pins on connector and board near it if there is any problem.
But as I said it should be made really delicate and in appropriate conditions.
Sadly I cant really help with it beside that, and I hope your phone gonna stand up after that somehow :/
Thanks for the reply Akinaro. Indeed the conditions are not ideal. At least I have one of those repair tool kits with the small screwdrivers, plastic pick and plastic levers for the connectors. I'll also set a reminder to take some latex/nitril gloves from the lab for next time
But few questions, when you managed to flash rom, you get all that android logo when you are in flashmode, and it show everything(loading bar etc) on screen?
Im asking because first symptom of bad battery connection is deformed or totally dead screen.
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Click to collapse
No, the screen is totally dead. No sign of life whatsoever.
When you fixed gps antenna(that black plastic on top near camera) you used any tool that could damage board? its near microUSB so its easy to mess those small pins and make short circuit.
The same with battery, you could try to squeeze/move it a bit to see if there is any changes in phone boot behavior(not to gentle way to check it but sometimes it show if there is a problem)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Possibly. I have used both the screwdriver and the plastic tools, but fiddling everything back in was tricky. The battery was disconnected though so it shouldn't have short-circuited. I will try with moving around the battery. But the more I think of it, the more I start thinking that I screwed up the motherboard by touching something there.
Before changing motherboard I would replace battery from your other phone(charged before that) and check all pins on connector and board near it if there is any problem.
But as I said it should be made really delicate and in appropriate conditions.
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Click to collapse
I have tried the other battery last night as well. I didn't charge it first though, I left it in my phone to charge overnight and tried to boot it this morning, without result.
So I've attempted to swap the motherboards. Good and bad news...
The good news is that the spare phone works with every combination of motherboard and battery, so neither of those is the culprit. The bad news: none of the combinations work on my own phone, even with swapping all the other hardware components (camera's, gps, antenna etc.).
On the other hand, by now the LED doesn't turn red anymore. The phone just stays completely off. I didn't have time to try and charge it for some time though, so I'm not sure if it's a good or a bad sign.
I fear that the main multiconnector running under the battery might be damaged when I took out the battery and antenna module the first time. That is the only component that I cannot swap for it is so integrated - it would mean swapping the screen to the spare-parts-phone and using that one.
Any ideas still before I should consider it a write-off completely?
I have an off brand Android head unit in my truck. A MCWAUTO 7.1 2GB quad core. It’s in a Ram truck. I can not for the life of me get the backup camera working. The Canbus doesn’t trigger it to come on (yes it’s wired correctly) I even tried using the “reverse-in” wire connected to the backup lights positive wire. Checked is with a volt meter to confirm power. The screen stays on the home screen. No errors. There is no settings in the setup menus to turn on like there is on a WinCe unit.
If I didn’t have it wired correctly, using the reverse-in wire with power I would at least get a no camera error.
Any info would be helpful.
I just bought Dasaita HA2153-MAX6 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33010915960.html
After some testing I didn't like that screen was less responsive than on my old one leading to bunch of typing mistakes, button were hard to press, there was light leak from buttons onto screen and also some constant background noise in right side speakers. I decided that I will be returning it, pulled out and put my old one back in.
Then I realised I hadn't done factory reset and cleared personal data on Dasaita. So I put it back in, car batter was unplugged. I connected the the main power harness without any other cables like antenna, mic, rear cam etc. After connecting batter and turning on ignition key, there was noise of sparks inside and burn smell. Of course I immediately turned off ignition.
This caused a a fuse to blow in engine compartment, but somehow the fuse in the head unit itself was intact. Any idea how could this happen?
I replaced the fuse and put back my old head unit which works as before.