What do people find the most efficient way of deciding between ambient display and manual brightness?
Ambient display gives a pink tint when on low brightness manual does not.
Manual brightness is a little brighter than ambient display so is this having a negative impact on battery.
What are your thoughts on this?
I meant to say Adaptive brightness
I personally like adaptive brightness, and leave it on. I don't turn my brightness down enough ever for the pinkish hue to bother me. The pros with having the brightness adjust automatically outweigh the cons for my usage.
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TheAmazingDave said:
I personally like adaptive brightness, and leave it on. I don't turn my brightness down enough ever for the pinkish hue to bother me. The pros with having the brightness adjust automatically outweigh the cons for my usage.
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Yup. I don't want to have to pull up my brightness toggle every time I need the screen brighter or dimmer. Wish it had adaptive texting, adaptive calling, adaptive all things etc... I like auto everything
jbdan said:
Yup. I don't want to have to pull up my brightness toggle every time I need the screen brighter or dimmer. Wish it had adaptive texting, adaptive calling, adaptive all things etc... I like auto everything
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I would agree however I think every rom has brightness control via the status bar so changing your brightness is very easy, obviously if you don't want to flash then yeah it would be tedious to change.
I've never been a fan of any sort of brightness slider as it was always distracting seeing it change brightness, so I like to just manually change it.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using XDA Free mobile app
For me adaptive brightness is kept off. I have my brightness:
indoors around 20-30%
outdoors: 40-50%
in a dark room completely pushed down to the minimum.
The display is bright enough at these levels. I also have franco kernel which made me change the RGB to a cooler color.
I keep adaptive brightness off, it ruins the screen colors for me. Sometimes it looks fine, and sometimes it looks really bad.
I prefer manually adjusting my brightness via status bar holding anyways.
I then use screen filter if i really need my phone dimmer at night time in bed. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.haxor
The reason you don't get the pinkish hue with adaptive turned off is because it simply doesn't get as dim. I haven't noticed a difference in max bright though.
I leave adaptive on slider at about half way.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using XDA Free mobile app
From my time with a Nexus 6 the screen didn't seem any brighter on max brightness compared with the adaptive brightness. The screen just was not that much brighter than the Galaxy Nexus next to me at the time, and was far less bright compared to the iPhone 6+ with me at the time.
The screen really isn't that bright so I don't see how the adaptive brightness could give noticeable differences compared to setting it to maximum manually. I might be wrong.
I leave it on. And done.
I don't like it I had it on when I first got the phone. I tried to deal with the pinkish color. Not anymore I turned it off put my brightness at about 75. Now you can really see and take advantage of that beautiful quad HD display. If you keep adaptive brightness on you might as well have a 720p display. Now I do want dark everything like contact dialer and settings. That helps with the bright white.
Also is it just me or is the whites not really white? Even with my brightness turned all the way up. I still see some pinkish in it. I just noticed when I am inside it does not look that pinkish guess it was because I was outside.
zephiK said:
I keep adaptive brightness off, it ruins the screen colors for me. Sometimes it looks fine, and sometimes it looks really bad.
I prefer manually adjusting my brightness via status bar holding anyways.
I then use screen filter if i really need my phone dimmer at night time in bed. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.haxor
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yep, yep, yep, me too.
Simple easy app
jbdan said:
Yup. I don't want to have to pull up my brightness toggle every time I need the screen brighter or dimmer. Wish it had adaptive texting, adaptive calling, adaptive all things etc... I like auto everything
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Me too. But when outside and in the sun I need to change the brightness to 100%
Hi everyone, I saw that during idle mode the image is like a strobe and in the settings the image size is blocked 16: 9 0.9 megapixels, and impossible to change. I saw the same problem on my galaxy s9 + and also a galaxy s7. I saw on the net that a lot of this problem !? how to solve it? thank youView attachment 4661145
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krz_ayman said:
Hi everyone, I saw that during idle mode the image is like a strobe and in the settings the image size is blocked 16: 9 0.9 megapixels, and impossible to change. I saw the same problem on my galaxy s9 + and also a galaxy s7. I saw on the net that a lot of this problem !? how to solve it? thank you
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its how slow mo works. it takes high frame rate video with lower quality. iirc the slow mo you will take is 720p in 480fps. since lamps flicker at around 50-60hz, and you have 480fps which means you will have a faster shutter speed, thus the camera is capturing light faster than how lamps flicker
ammar18 said:
its how slow mo works. it takes high frame rate video with lower quality. iirc the slow mo you will take is 720p in 480fps. since lamps flicker at around 50-60hz, and you have 480fps which means you will have a faster shutter speed, thus the camera is capturing light faster than how lamps flicker
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ok thank you friend, and so it is normal that we do not know anything in the settings and the lights flash! then all slow motion videos will be in poor quality as long as the light is by "day"? A friend made a slow motion video with an iphone 7 in a dark room, and the slow motion is great! I try me and it is awful ... where I asked myself these questions.
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krz_ayman said:
ok thank you friend, and so it is normal that we do not know anything in the settings and the lights flash! then all slow motion videos will be in poor quality as long as the light is by "day"? A friend made a slow motion video with an iphone 7 in a dark room, and the slow motion is great! I try me and it is awful ... where I asked myself these questions.
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yes, it is normal if lights flash, especially at higher fps
the default option for the slow mo on the Note 9 is super slow mo, which is 720p at 960fps. it requires quite a considerable amount of natural light, as artificial light, or lamps flicker. to get the normal slow mo, go to your camera settings, edit camera modes, rear camera and check Slow Motion. that way you can get higher quality slow motion at a reduced frame rate which reduces flickering.
on the side note, when you use super slow mo, you can remove flickering by playing the video, press the three dots at the upper right corner, and tap on Remove Flickering.
ammar18 said:
since lamps flicker at around 50-60hz, and you have 480fps which means you will have a faster shutter speed, thus the camera is capturing light faster than how lamps flicker
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These days the modern lamps can have all kinds of flicker frequencies and effects, especially at higher frequencies, due to using (cheap and/or small space) electronics to convert and control the mains voltage to the lamp's voltage/current, and the conversion has its own higher frequency.
The end result can still be flickering, just that it can also look different than the older 50/60Hz effect, depending on how the camera works. For example, it can show as lighter and darker stripes instead of brightness changes in whole frames.
For examples as seen right at my desk with the super slowmo preview: LED backlight display of my slightly old work laptop flickers wildly and full display effect; my newest LED backlight 4K monitor is steady; my older CCFL-backlight monitor shows a slow slightly colored rolling wave effect through a rainbow of shades (though in this case the effect could be caused by the actual LCD-panel control instead, or the combination of the panel and backlight both varying at different frequencies); LED stripe desklight is steady; fluorescent room ceiling light (has electronic ballast) is steady; the hallway light uses LED replacement lights for small halogen bulbs and flickers madly.
(The old laptop display is kind of bad one, it sometimes flickers even visibly while it "warms up", and it shows a bit of rolling flickering also in the normal photo mode preview, whereas the hallway lights and the CCFL-backlight display look completely steady in that mode.)
Slow-motion / high frame rate video recording not only needs plenty of light, it should be non-flickering type, either daylight or lamps with electronics that are good enough to give steady non-flickering light output. (Details, details: There are other means, but I don't think there is need to go into details here; photography/video forums/websites are better source of info at this point, as this applies to all cameras in general, not just mobile phones or specifically Note 9. Also, even normal photography should use non-flickering types of light, otherwise auto-exposure measurement just before the shot can get different light level than what ends up recorded on the sensor, possibly leading to bad and/or varying exposures, or even lighter/darker stripes on the photo if the exposure uses rolling shutter.)
The super-slowmotion preview is a nice way to check your lights, although it doesn't necessarily reveal all the problems. Normal camera with fast rolling shutter might be even better "detector" in this sense.
6thtry said:
These days the modern lamps can have all kinds of flicker frequencies and effects, especially at higher frequencies, due to using (cheap and/or small space) electronics to convert and control the mains voltage to the lamp's voltage/current, and the conversion has its own higher frequency.
The end result can still be flickering, just that it can also look different than the older 50/60Hz effect, depending on how the camera works. For example, it can show as lighter and darker stripes instead of brightness changes in whole frames.
For examples as seen right at my desk with preview: LED backlight display of my slightly old work laptop flickers wildly and full display effect; my newest LED backlight 4K monitor is steady; my older CCFL-backlight monitor shows a slow slightly colored rolling wave effect through a rainbow of shades; LED stripe desklight is steady; fluorescent room ceiling light (has electronic ballast) is steady; the hallway light flickers madly (LED replacement lights for small halogen bulbs).
(The old laptop display is kind of bad one, it sometimes flickers even visibly while it "warms up", and it shows a bit of rolling flickering also in the normal photo mode preview, whereas the hallway lights and the CCFL-backlight display look completely steady in that mode.)
Slow-motion / high frame rate video recording not only needs plenty of light, it should be non-flickering type, either daylight or lamps with electronics that are good enough to give steady non-flickering light output. (Details, details: There are other means, but I don't think there is need to go into details here; photography/video forums/websites are better source of info at this point, as this applies to all cameras in general, not just mobile phones or specifically Note 9. Also, even normal photography should use non-flickering types of light, otherwise auto-exposure measurement just before the shot can get different light level than what ends up recorded on the sensor, possibly leading to bad and/or varying exposures, or even lighter/darker stripes on the photo if the exposure uses rolling shutter.)
The super-slowmotion preview is a nice way to check your lights, although it doesn't necessarily reveal all the problems. Normal camera with fast rolling shutter might be even better "detector" in this sense.
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true. i have seen some 'artificial' lights in super slow mo which appears to not flicker, even after taking the video. usually i check it first before taking a super slow mo video.
even in normal mode i can see some flickering on some laptop screens and monitors, and even the moving stripes sort of thing that doesnt go away even after tinkering with the shutter speed. so i guess its more dependant on the type of light, rather than shutter speed? (not implying shutter speed is not important in this regard)
thats a lot of information to swallow on me, but hey, not bad to learn something new.
ammar18 said:
even in normal mode i can see some flickering on some laptop screens and monitors, and even the moving stripes sort of thing that doesnt go away even after tinkering with the shutter speed. so i guess its more dependant on the type of light, rather than shutter speed? (not implying shutter speed is not important in this regard)
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The preview may use one shutter speed, even if the actual photo (or video) would be taken at another shutter speed. And how it looks depends on both the frequencies/effects on the light and the frequencies (and shutter type) of the camera and mode/parameters in use. (And there can be other differences in other cameras. E.g. DSLR's typically use one aperture when looking through viewfinder and adjust that aperture quickly when the photo is taken, then return it back to the "viewing" aperture. And that is why there can be a "DoF preview" button, which forces the desired aperture already during viewing. Ooops, again into details, photo/video websites are better for this.)
ammar18 said:
yes, it is normal if lights flash, especially at higher fps
the default option for the slow mo on the Note 9 is super slow mo, which is 720p at 960fps. it requires quite a considerable amount of natural light, as artificial light, or lamps flicker. to get the normal slow mo, go to your camera settings, edit camera modes, rear camera and check Slow Motion. that way you can get higher quality slow motion at a reduced frame rate which reduces flickering.
on the side note, when you use super slow mo, you can remove flickering by playing the video, press the three dots at the upper right corner, and tap on Remove Flickering.
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Click to collapse
Hi, I understand what you explain, but the iphone 7 is also able to film Slo-mo video support for 1080p at 120 fps and 720p at 240 fps. As noted in 720p 9 but it does not have the blink of light and its slow motion has a good image quality unlike our samsung.
So if we need an extreme amount of light to slow down, they are available only in certain good light conditions! Which makes the option not very attractive unlike the slow-mo iphone.
krz_ayman said:
Hi, I understand what you explain, but the iphone 7 is also able to film Slo-mo video support for 1080p at 120 fps and 720p at 240 fps. As noted in 720p 9 but it does not have the blink of light and its slow motion has a good image quality unlike our samsung.
So if we need an extreme amount of light to slow down, they are available only in certain good light conditions! Which makes the option not very attractive unlike the slow-mo iphone.
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are you using super slow mo or slow motion in your Note 9's camera?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIHg5p1KBsY
In this video, the image is clear and there is no light except the object that is lit. I do the same test and everything is completely dark and the quality very mediocre.
ammar18 said:
yes, it is normal if lights flash, especially at higher fps
the default option for the slow mo on the Note 9 is super slow mo, which is 720p at 960fps. it requires quite a considerable amount of natural light, as artificial light, or lamps flicker. to get the normal slow mo, go to your camera settings, edit camera modes, rear camera and check Slow Motion. that way you can get higher quality slow motion at a reduced frame rate which reduces flickering.
on the side note, when you use super slow mo, you can remove flickering by playing the video, press the three dots at the upper right corner, and tap on Remove Flickering.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ammar18 said:
are you using super slow mo or slow motion in your Note 9's camera?
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Click to collapse
I use slow motion
krz_ayman said:
In this video, the image is clear and there is no light except the object that is lit. I do the same test and everything is completely dark and the quality very mediocre.
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what you see might look like there is no other visible light source, but actually it has lights from behind as you can see from the shadow. it can look like its dim because of its high frame rate.
ammar18 said:
what you see might look like there is no other visible light source, but actually it has lights from behind as you can see from the shadow. it can look like its dim because of its high frame rate.
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Click to collapse
Ok the friend, so in fact everything is normal and this mode is used in certain light conditions.
Hi, I understand what you explain, but the iphone 7 is also able to film Slo-mo video support for 1080p at 120 fps and 720p at 240 fps. As noted in 720p 9 but it does not have the blink of light and its slow motion has a good image quality unlike our samsung.
So if we need an extreme amount of light to slow down, they are available only in certain good light conditions! Which makes the option not very attractive unlike the slow-mo iphone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Frame rate matters; 240fps (let alone 960fps) might e.g. reveal flickering that is not noticed at 120fps. Each camera could also use different shutter speeds (which is not always the same as 1s/fps). Also, for proper comparison, the compared cameras should be used in the same circumstances (same lamps, etc.)
Quality differences is another topic I'm not going to comment on. There can very well be some, just like with the different quality of photographs with different cameras.
The amount of light does not need to be "extreme", but again, the higher the frame rate, the less time there is to expose (=gather light for) each frame, so the brighter the light needs to be for equal results. Specifically, e.g. 240fps vs. 960fps is 4 times difference in the light needed (if shutter speeds are scaled by the same factor). Or compare normal 30fps to 960 fps, the amount of light might need to be 32 times higher. As an over-simplified example (and not specifically for this Note 9 case), assuming a case where a normal 80W room light would be just enough for a nice 30fps video (shutter speed at maximum to still get 30fps), that light would need to be improved to a whopping 2560W for "equal" exposure with super slow motion. There are other factors affecting it, usually one doesn't really need 2.5kW of light (e.g. I can do a super-slow motion video that only gets a bit on the dark side right at my desk, which has light levels perhaps between recommended "normal room" and "office" levels and corresponds to maybe 20-40W of fluorescent output above the desk - but was it really 960fps, I didn't check), but this discussion is moving towards the territory of general video/photography stuff, other websites are better for these.
The linked video example is obviously made in a studio or studio-like environment, by people who likely know at least a bit on what they are doing ("Slow Mo Guys TV"), so they likely do have appropriately suitable lights (and then some).
The little bit of slowmotion / superslowmotion videos that I have so far taken with Note 9 hasn't shown me anything that I would not have expected (be it flickering lights or result getting too dark etc.) The only things currently in my list of questions related to Note 9 slow motion are: "is the video length in normal slow motion mode limited", "was the very begin and end of one normal slow motion video at normal speed, and if so then why, or does it even matter" and "what was that talk about 480fps and/or 0.2sec snippets I read somewhere (perhaps slips from S9+ or something)".
So, one can always simply try if the slowmotion mode works in the circumstances or not - no need to ignore it in other than certain light conditions - though I would not bother to even try at night, dark street, dim/dark rooms etc. Sometimes the light levels are ok, sometimes they are just too low or the lights are too flickery, in which case one might look for better lighting, and/or move to better lighting (closer to light, daylight outside, another room). Sometimes its tough luck, with no possibility to do decent slow motion video. In some cases one might be able to use certain software to make it slow motion in post-processing (but it has also its own limits). All this is also better explained in photo/video websites.
---------- Post added at 16:45 ---------- Previous post was at 16:25 ----------
ammar18 said:
what you see might look like there is no other visible light source, but actually it has lights from behind as you can see from the shadow. it can look like its dim because of its high frame rate.
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To me, the apple basket snippet looked like multiple large diffused lights (or lights with many lamps/sources of light) (and/or reflecting diffusers) from "all" directions (except not from below and less from left); I can't see any shadows there, e.g. the handle only makes slight fuzzy darker area near it, looking like there is at least one light source somewhere up-right.
The dropping water seems to have only one smooth light to left, as reflected from the metal and drop surface, and the drops (when round) do not show anything from behind (or reflections from the front side).
The 3rd scene seems to have at least two not-so-well diffused 4-lamp sources (seen warped in reflections).
But all in all, well arranged lighting in each case (except the bee, where it is likely just the sunlight, no "arrangement" needed).
Hi, I have "fcam" app pre installed on my android head unit. when I open app it has my rear view but I cant workout how to connect front camera to be show on the app. I have a front camera (aftermarket) installed but I am currently running it through AVin.
how do I connect front camera to the "Fcam" app?
Hi there, I had a similar question about a year ago (I wanted to use an analog camera as a dash cam/DVR, though I eventually only use it for parking assistance).
I had to modify my head unit (solder a connector on the board) to get the front view camera working. It’s been working great for the past year.
I suggest reading through this entire topic, which contains a lot of instructions and photos. Read through it entirely before actually soldering anything because it contains trial-and-error stuff:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an.../composite-cvbs-av-view-cam-dash-cam-t3799274
I have seen you posts regarding this, was really hoping I would not need to open up the head unit.
The app is pre installed on the unit, was hoping it would just be a case of connecting an rca plug to correct spare pins ? but I can't work out which pins to connect to
My AVIN head unit had an RCA jack for front camera and rear camera. I use a DDVR-CAM2 so the rear camera goes to the front camera harness (for recording both front and rear video in the front camera) and then the rear comes out of the front camera harness and goes to the rear camera RCA jack. The front comes in over USB. When I launched F-Cam I would get the same results as you, only rear cam. But I run the DDVR-CAM2 app and can see both my cams while driving and it even offers lane departure and collision avoidance. I just deselected DVR from the unit factory settings and the FCam app disappeared.
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How are you guys getting the rear cam to work with F-Cam? Did you have to wire it to another 12v power source in addition to the reverse trigger wire?
I have the same problem - rear cam works fine (in the F-Cam app and when putting the car in reverse but not in the AVIN app), but not the front one (doesn't work in F-Cam or anything else, just AVIN). I power my cams via the cigarette lighter socket. Only power there when the ignition is turned on.
Both my cams is connected via CVBS in and I have the same settings as in the first post in this thread.
Hello all,
I just saw something strange and want to know if it is a defect or if there is a reason for this behavior.
While beeing in a normal phone call, loud speakers turned on, I was browsing online. The page had a white background and in the top half of the display / I saw 4 big Pixels which were visible, because they were grey instead of white. They only "flashed" grey for a very short time.
I thought it was something on the page so today I tried to recreate it.
Downloaded a white picture, made a phone call and turned the loud speakers on.
Same result: 4 big pixels in a block in the top half again.
Something else I found out: It was only visible (or occured more often) when I moved the phone.
So can someone check their devices, if they have the same pixels?
Is it a defect or a sensor (maybe it is a proximity sensor, because so far I only saw it while beeing on the phone).
I think that this is the proximity sensor to turn of the screen when you put the phone in the ear. My previous S22 had the same
Good to read, that it is probably just the proximity sensor.
But why would you need a proximity sensor, if you turn on the loud speaker?
WhatsApp switches the speaker when you put the phone in the ear with the help of then proximity sensor. Maybe a normal call does the same?
Yup, my pixel 5 has the same. Looks as follows (it's the grey/yellowish dot in the middle of the screen at the top:
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As long as it turns off after you finish the call it's all good. Pixel 5 had an issue where it wouldn't turn off for some people.
So far it only happens during calling and goes away immediately after a phone call.
I was just confused, why the proximity sensor is on, when I turn on the loud speakers.
RaZoR No1 said:
So far it only happens during calling and goes away immediately after a phone call.
I was just confused, why the proximity sensor is on, when I turn on the loud speakers.
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I think it's more something that is related to being in a call, not whether the call is on loudspeaker or not.