Database Develop

New power supply for XDA and Digitraveler GPS.

:roll:
O.K. Been a while since I have posted but here goes the new mod. I had wired in an old Ericsson car charger to the modded IPAQ connector to supply 5 volts to the XDA for power. Problem was I still had to use batteries or a seperate power supply for the GPS.
The cable that runs up to the GPS is a standard phone line RJ11 connector (3 wires). The GPS has a six wire RJ45 connector on the circuit board. What yo have to do is to replace the black wire (three 3 wires in it) with a four 4 wire phone cable. You will have on extra wire. We will use this for our power running up to the GPS. Connect this to the + 5 volt wire running in from the car charger. Connect the black to the ground and the green and yellow toio the data contacts on the PDA connector. Look at the two RJ11 jacks and use the correct wires. Now connect the black to the ground running in on the car charger.
Next unscrew the case on the gps. You will need to solder two jumper wires across from the RJ45 jack over to the standard power connector. Run a jumper from the - on the poer supply over to the pin that had the black wire connected to it through the RJ jack. Next run a jumper from the power jack + over to where the red power wire runs up providing 5v. Now it doesnt matter if you have batteries in it or not you will have power from the car charger being plugged in.
Will try to piost some pics.
Here is a link to the previous mod for the IPAQ cinnector.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=2244&highlight=digitraveler
Dave

Thanks for that, makes it a much more tidy job.

Docking Station

I have the HTC dock for the ameo arriving monday / tuesday. I lll post pictures and comments for all that are interested.
Ordered from expansys £69

ade0282 said:
I have the HTC dock for the ameo arriving monday / tuesday. I lll post pictures and comments for all that are interested.
Ordered from expansys £69 with a second battery
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you noticed this ?
http://www.gpsforless.co.uk/product_details.php?id=9256

GPSLessforLess cradle
Palmchen said:
Have you noticed this ?
http://www.gpsforless.co.uk/product_details.php?id=9256
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That seems to be a charging and syncing station, rather than a full docking station (with its USB passthrough ports etc). Having said that, if it charges from the mains while connected with PC, as description implies, it will be exactly what I'm after. Not a bad price either. If it's the same one I saw a few weeks ago, the price has halved since then. Hmmm, might get two (home and work)...
EDIT:
No, the one I saw before was this:
http://www.gpsforless.co.uk/product_details.php?id=7558
With second battery slot. Doesn't seem to be available though. The other probably replaced it.

What is the function of earphone jack holes of station?
On the left side of Athena, there are three jack holes, i.e., earphone, miniusb, and vga out. However, the docking station only plugs into miniusb and vga out. It does not plug into earphone. However, there is a earphone jackhole on the right side of the docking station, but when I plug into that earphone jack hole, I did not get any sound from it. I can not use the original earphone jack hole either, because it was blocked when you set Athena into the docking station. I have a question that What is the function of earphone jack holes on the docking station if no sound coming out from it?

The audio output is also available from the mini USB connection on the Ameo, connection of a correctly wired addapter to the Ameo will mute the onboard speakers thus routing the audio to the addapter cable/ port etc. Either your unit is faulty or the dock unit is incorrectly wired -
When you dock the device try playing some music etc. on the unit and does it emmit any sound from its onboard speakers ? - Mike

I *DID* get two of the cheaper cradles for my Advantage. They plug into the mains with a supplied adapter (5V 1A) and the PC's USB.
The trouble is, the charging time seems to be as if it were charging from USB only - ie sloooow. This is despite the power light coming on when mains is connected (or when USB is connected). Does the USB charging override the mains charging? I've tried disabling the USB charging with a registry addition as described elsewhere, to no effect.
If I unplug the adapter the LED on the adapter remains lit for a very long time - several minutes at least. Even unplugging the USB and the adapter at the same time doesn't affect that - the LED on the adapter itself and the cradle remain lit, but the charging light on the Advantage goes out. Very peculiar.
For someone with a full docking station - how quickly does it charge? If it's at full mains speed I may upgrade to one or two of them (when finances permit) for syncing, and use these cheap ones as mere mains-only charging stations dotted around the house.

panvita said:
On the left side of Athena, there are three jack holes, i.e., earphone, miniusb, and vga out. However, the docking station only plugs into miniusb and vga out. It does not plug into earphone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Athena mini-USB also provides Audio-out like all other new HTC devices. This would explain why the dock only connects to the mini-USB jack. However then, you should get some audio noise out of the dock's jack... this seems not to work...

Audio & Power in car: Electrical Noise

I've got a problem when I plug my phone into my car stereo as well as cigarette adapter.
I'm also got a kind of custom setup.
Audio
Honda Civic Stock Stereo -> CD Changer to Aux Input Adapter -> 3.5mm to 2.5mm adapter -> 2.5mm input on HTC Y adapter.
Power
Belkin Cig. Lighter to USB Female Port (From old iPaq) -> HTC Stock Sync/Charge USB cable -> MiniUSB input on HTC Y adapter.
So, when both the power and audio are plugged in, I hear a horrible hiss on my car stereo, not to mention a sound that varies in pitch to my throttle. When I unplug the power, the audio is completely clean. To me this seems like some kind of a grounding issue - to say that the Audio and Power both have seperate grounds, and bridging the two creates a potential difference in the form of noise on my Sound. Also to note: I only hear the noise when the Y adapter is plugged into the phone. With the audio and power plugged into the Y adapter, but the Y adapter not plugged into the phone, It's perfectly clean. I'm kind of baffeled.
The only solution I can think of is to gut the Belkin Power->USB adapter, and providing it from 12VDC elsewhere. I've got a tap directly below my passenger seat where I have a big power inverter tied to my battery. I don't know if I'd hear the same sound by grabbing my power from there.
Anyone with an engineering mindset have an idea? I'm open to suggestions.

If it was a grounding issue I would expect a buzz not a hiss...
Does it go away when you unplug the power and just leave the audio?
Go away or stay when the phone is unplugged?
It could be a bad adapter so maybe try another...

It goes away when I unplug the power, or unplug the phone. It's only present with audio+power both plugged into the phone.
I've tried powering it using the AC adapter and a power inverter - that sounds clean.

Fix?
I have the same problem and went out and bought a ground loop isolator from Radio Shack. It ran about 12.00 and it definitely got rid of the noise but unfortunately it noticeably affected the sound quality of my music and made it sound high pitched.
Perhaps buying a higher quality one will solve the problem. In the meantime, I've returned the isolator and just run on battery when listening to music. Perhaps I'll hit Ebay and see if there's a higher quality ground loop isolator.

Definitely a ground loop problem.
As devoe said, you can get a ground isolator and put in the audio line, but those are typically a simple transformer, and they often don't pass low frequencies very well.
You may be able to simply cut the ground going to the audio jack input. Not a perfect solution, but it sometimes works. But it usually requires a blocking cap in each channel. An experiment for sure.
A different power adapter might help. Or not.
You may also be able to add in a power plug that is wired directly to the radios ground and power. Then your power adapter plugged into that might have a ground that is close enough to the radio ground to not have a problem.
Me, I would open up the power adapter, and if it is a switcher supply with a transformer, see if I could isolate the ground.

I had the exact same issue. I believe it is called alternator noise.
01 Nissan Maxima with Eclipse AVN 5435 RCA hook up. When cigarette lighter and audio are both on, it makes the noise. I dont think it happened in the beginning but definitely happens now....
Luckily my Kicker 12L7 overwhelms the noise and allows me to tolerate it...somewhat.

When the audio wire and power wire are close to each other, this problem happens. Intead of using an isolator for audio wire reducing quality, try shielding your power wire instead. Might work but not very sure..

worwig said:
Definitely a ground loop problem.
As devoe said, you can get a ground isolator and put in the audio line, but those are typically a simple transformer, and they often don't pass low frequencies very well.
You may be able to simply cut the ground going to the audio jack input. Not a perfect solution, but it sometimes works. But it usually requires a blocking cap in each channel. An experiment for sure.
A different power adapter might help. Or not.
You may also be able to add in a power plug that is wired directly to the radios ground and power. Then your power adapter plugged into that might have a ground that is close enough to the radio ground to not have a problem.
Me, I would open up the power adapter, and if it is a switcher supply with a transformer, see if I could isolate the ground.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What he said. The fact it alters in pitch with engine speed says it's alternator wine, which is related to grounding issues. I have a similar problem, but it's not a wine that follows RPMs, just a static like hiss. I need to dink around with the ground and see if I can get it.

I had a similar problem. I hadn't used my car audio for a while and when I started it up again, it was making horrible noises. I bought a new charger and had significant improvements. I'd recommend buying a charger from radio shack. If that doesn't fix it (or if you find it cheaper online), then you can return it.

If you can, verify the grounding cable on your cigarette lighter. Best thing you could do it to cut it and look for the nearest solid metal ground point in the lighter's general vicinity and ground it to that. Could be the stock ground on the plug.
I'm a car audio buff and my previous car, a 01' Camry had that issue when I charged my Creative Zen touch and played audio through it as well... Fixed it by re-grounding my lighter plug directly to the chassy, its just a matter of finding the right spot nearby to ground it with a good sized gauge wire, like 12 or 14 AWG.

I had a similar problem. I discovered that my problem was that the Mogul's CPU noise was conducting out the USB DC power cable and then coupling back through to my FM transmitter on it's DC power cable. I never was able to completely get ride of the noise. However, I was able to reduce it substantially by using a different USB 12VDC power source. USB hubs normally contain low pass filters on the USB power lines, so your mileage may vary.
The tick to solving your problem is to try different configurations by moving and disconnect wires. Often you can here noise variations that will indicate whether the noise is external to your system.
EMI is either conducted (ground loops) or radiated. Since audio is below 1MHz it is best if there is only a single ground point. Since you normally have multiple wires, ground loops are common, so keep your wires short and your devices close together.

Same trouble here, but on a Touch Pro...

car pc project

ok, so i'm looking to see what i can do with my N7
i'm going to replace my radio with the N7 and i had a few questions
i think i have charging ok, what i'm going to do is this
main input will be set on a Havis Chargeguard set to 30 minutes - 1 hr after ignition is off (for charging purposes)
i'm thinking of using a 12V to 5V step down for the tablet, good idea? for those that have done this before, i'd like some input
or this power supply with enclosure
http://www.mini-box.com/DCDC-USB?sc=8&category=981
the chargeguard will be fed directly to the battery with 10 gauge wire with 10 gauge ground, set to ignition sense.
USB Hub -- Dlink Dub-H7 i use these at work in police cruisers, and they're great for car's -- needs 5V
USB OTG Y cable, split for power and USB devices
SDR i have already, but how can i integrate the Metra 40 adapter for the antenna?
ford Double DIN mount for the car
what i'm not sure about is why i need the DAC or the headphone amp? and what do i need with them to send to an amp, or line level speakers?
i have a 04 GT mustang, i'm thinking of buying a separate amp, possibly a kicker amp or a JL amp. i have 8 ga wire ran to the back and ready for everything but my alpine amp i had croaked out on me. i already have 4 RCA jacks ran to the back and ready to be used
i've done some reading, i'm just not sure what else i'm going to need. ideally i'd like power, and vol up / down somewhere, but reading the device has each button grounded?

Hurricane Irma Charger Hack Help Needed - Time Sensative

I'm anticipating power outages here from Hurricane Irma. I'm throwing together a quick AA powered cell phone charger using a voltage regulator circuit. My question concerns the wiring of the type C connector. I cut a cable that came with my car cigarette lighter charger (charging only, no data). The guides I have read all say there should be red, black, green and white. The red and black are supposed to be the power. Mine only has red, green and white, with an outer shield braid. The shield is connected to the outer section of the type C connector. I can't find any information on this setup. I've considered using the red for positive and the braid for ground, but I would rather not ruin my phone if this is wrong (Nexus 5x). Can anyone shed some light on this for me?
There are three contacts within the C connector which I assume are the three wires, and the outer section as I mentioned connects to the braided shield. Thanks for any help, I would like a way to charge after the power goes out, and I have tons of AA batteries here.
Thank you!

Unless you can find the info somewhere, I guess the only way to find out how to connect the cables properly is to either open up the cable where it connects to the type C connector, or open up the cigarette lighter charger and see how the wires are connected there.

you could also just connect the car charger to 5 or so AA in series and power it that way. It would also help since it will likely have a fuse and regulate the output to the phone properly.

I appreciate the quick replies. I finally just took a gamble and it seems to be working as it should. I used an LM2596 Buck DC-DC Converter Step Down Module connected to 8 AA cells adjusted to 5v. Works like a charm so at least I should have some access to info after the power goes out. Thanks again!