Database Develop

Broken Charging Block on My Kaiser

I was unplugging my usb cable after flashing my phone and it pulled the pins and little charging thing out of my kaiser, now its just a hole with nothing inside, is this expensive to mend? basically it wont charge with charger or computer as there is nothing inside!!!!!!!!!! HELP!

biggary said:
is this expensive to mend?
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Click to collapse
Depends who you get to do the work (or if you buy the part and do the work yourself). If you review the Kaiser Service Manual (avail through the Kaiser wiki here on xda-dev), it provides part no details etc and shows you pics of what you're in for. All is not lost although it does make me wonder how pulling the plug *out* caused this problem - what is there to snag
Oh and most people will refer to that as the USB connector (whereas the charging block is commonly the thing you plug into the mains socket).

Please search XDA, this has been address in one way or another many, many times. Search for broken USB port. You can buy the the porst and try the impossible micro-soldering repair, or send it off and have it fixed. One service a lot of poeple use is http://www.ppctechs.com/ I think they charge $79 to repalce it.
If you want to see what is involved in doing it yourself; and why I will never try, look at post 4 here:
http://www.modaco.com/content/smart...hf-mini-usb-replacement-project/#entry1001118
I busted my plug and did not have enough to get it fixed, and there is not way I was going to try and fix it myself. I got a cradle with a battery charger from ebay; it even included an extra battery. I just leave one battery charging and swicth them when they die. It sucks becasue I have to take my back cover off every day; but it was only like $10.

[Q] On charge - but battery still depleting?

Hi guys,
I wanted to use my NexusS in the car. I have a 3rd party cigarette lighter to USB which I put a mini to micro adapter on.
The phone does two strange things...
Firstly the screen will not go off - it won't time out and if I switch it off it switches itself right back on again.
Secondly, even though it says it is charging the battery life depleted - and fast too. I watched it loose 10% of its charge in around 10 minutes.
Any ideas - is it just a rubbish USB adapter (worked fine with my other phones, most were HTC).
Anyone else seen this - and fixed it?
/R

try a different charger. If issue stops, you've got your answer

Try a name brand (not cheap or generic) cigarette lighter plug that has a USB female on the other end. You could use the supplied usb data cable that came with the phone for charging (that's just about all it's good for). It's a straight cable so it won't be pulling on the phone when it's charging and if you're using it (if the cable is long enough) I hate coiled cables with a passion! Yeah it might be six feet long if you stretch it out but it will always be pulling the phone if you use it while charging.
Some cables aren't wired inside like a standard usb cable is. Lg is notorious for that. Some of their older phones refused to charge if you tried to use a standard usb cable. For a good data cable, that isn't cheap quality, I suggest the sprint usb data cable that the corporate stores sell. It's built good and has a solid connection. A less expensive one is an ultra brand usb to micro usb cable that you can find at compusa. The six foot one is perfect. Yes you can find others online cheaper of course, but as a local solution, you should be able to find these stores. I don't know the quality of any that might be sold at best buy or your cell phone company. Generally from what i've seen, the cell phone stores that have lots of generic accessories, have dummy phones or all their phones in a glass display case are the places that will probably have low quality cables. Some people don't care about stuff like that and some run into problems with flashing or being detected correctly by the computer or the plugs wiggling in the sockets and possibly causing intermittent connections. See where I'm going with this? Imagine you are flashing and halfway through it or at a critical point of data transfer. The plug connections aren't good or solid because they wiggle. The contacts momentarily lose connection and the data stops... Stuff like this is a bricked phone waiting to happen imo. Both Samsung and HTC cables that were supplied with the phones with my past phones seemed like they weren't very good data cables. Some may have never had a problem with these but I have. Times when phones refused to flash or be detected by the host computer, then the problem went away when I used "better" quality cables.
Sorry for my usual rambling when I reply. I like to explain things in a way that a non tech person could begin to understand.
As for your original question, I have experienced this too. Almost always a reboot fixes that problem. A good tool to use for charge and discharge info is a widget called battery monitor widget. I turn the sampling rate faster to like five seconds and the battery capacity to what the battery is actually rated at. The widget always seems to guess the wrong capacity of the battery. You can watch and learn what your phone normally idles at and when something is really sucking a lot of power. On the flip side, it will show you when the battery is trickle or charging it hard. Mine idles at less than ten milliamps and I've seen it charge as much as upper nine hundred milliamps (970's+).
sorry, gotta stop blabbing!

[Q] Mighty AtrixHD/MB886 killed by digitizer & battery replacement?

Hey all,
Before I even start here, please no snide replies about using the search box on here or anywhere... if the answer is out there, I'm at a loss for the keywords to get it. Fair enough? As FYI, bootloader is (was??) unlocked, rooted, and has cwm recovery.
So I dropped my MB886 cracking the screen (round of applause please) and in the process of disassembling the case to install replacement I tore (severed) the battery connection cable. Fast forward to phone now reassembled with new screen and battery installed --> -->
The phone now has a green LED that will respond with blinks to button certain presses i.e. the simulated battery pull, but the device doesn't show up in lsusb output or device manager. I've read of similar problems where the phone has been brought back, and I've read of the exact problem with no solution. Basically the only two things I've really read that supposedly work are battery pull button sequence and using OEM charger/cable to get battery to take a charge.
Unlike, say the Atrix 2 where the lonely white LED is there to serve as a reminder that it is a hard brick and that's all you're ever going to get from it again, I haven't even read that this is in fact the #1 sign device is now a brick. So could someone verify it is or isn't? I've never tried to access a device this way, but Is JTAG an option?
I don't get why this should be, despite battery issue, it's all simple hardware swapping involved here as the software wasn't touched and was 100% working even with cracked screen.
Thanks for anyone with an answer or the direction to one.

2 things it could be then: you over- or under-tightened the new battery cable screws to where there isn't a good connection with the board. The screws have to provide equal pressure on the positive or negative contacts or otherwise there's a fault in the circuit.
OR
Your new LCD/digitizer is defective OR wasn't seated well.
Since it was working before, and since you didn't break anything else (to your knowledge), those are the two things I would check.

Dr. Orange said:
2 things it could be then: you over- or under-tightened the new battery cable screws to where there isn't a good connection with the board. The screws have to provide equal pressure on the positive or negative contacts or otherwise there's a fault in the circuit.
OR
Your new LCD/digitizer is defective OR wasn't seated well.
Since it was working before, and since you didn't break anything else (to your knowledge), those are the two things I would check.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
--
hey, thanks for the input. I remember battery connections being snugged when I originally took it apart, and to be honest, short of having a mini torque wrench I don't know I could put them back any closer to that. the digitizer could certainly be either defective or perhaps have a bad connection, and i am certainly willing to test/check for either, however do you know that this would prevent the phone from booting or cause it to only display the green led as a sign of life? something of the "halt on all errors" in pc bios? seems logical that the led would (or could've) been used like the oc speaker and blink out some code relaying you've got a bad O2 sensor or the gas cap isn't tight.

Over tightening can cause problems. So loosen them a bit if it's just-short-of torque wrench tight. I don't know why it does, but I've read people had problems when they over tightened those screws. That green light could be telling you that the battery is connected poorly.

Is there a possibility that the battery is so depleted that it won't charge? For that, you need a factory cable to charge the battery with power off.

Sorry, to clarify, no I just snugged the battery connections when reassembling, I only meant that i don't think i could get them any closer to the way they were originally without aid of something like a torque wrench.
As for battery charge as a potential issue... to be fair, I only have a OEM Moto wall charger and I think the cable I am using is Samsung. Surely the cable itself isn't the weak link in this chain? A car battery on a multimeter reading 12.0 volts is something like 50% charged and about 12.8 volts is looking pretty good, anyone know what I should get out of the 3.8V Li-Ion on a meter?
PS I double checked the both data cable connections to the motherboard, so I doubt just a bad connection is to blame here.

slerros-1.0 said:
Sorry, to clarify, no I just snugged the battery connections when reassembling, I only meant that i don't think i could get them any closer to the way they were originally without aid of something like a torque wrench.
As for battery charge as a potential issue... to be fair, I only have a OEM Moto wall charger and I think the cable I am using is Samsung. Surely the cable itself isn't the weak link in this chain? A car battery on a multimeter reading 12.0 volts is something like 50% charged and about 12.8 volts is looking pretty good, anyone know what I should get out of the 3.8V Li-Ion on a meter?
PS I double checked the both data cable connections to the motherboard, so I doubt just a bad connection is to blame here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should get from 3.8 to 4.1.

slerros-1.0 said:
As for battery charge as a potential issue... to be fair, I only have a OEM Moto wall charger and I think the cable I am using is Samsung. Surely the cable itself isn't the weak link in this chain?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When I say "factory" cable, I'm not talking about the cable that came with the phone. There is a special Motorola cable (that you can even make yourself) that can charge your phone in situations when your phone is normally not willing to accept a charge.
If all else fails, try this: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1077414

Yes! This is brilliant and certainly answers a few questions. It'll take me a bit to get this together to try it, but I'll post back when I get a result. Cheers!

slerros-1.0 said:
Yes! This is brilliant and certainly answers a few questions. It'll take me a bit to get this together to try it, but I'll post back when I get a result. Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Scratch my previous answer. Seems I misunderstood what a "factory cable" is for. It can't actually charge your battery, instead it is used to power the phone so that you can flash/diagnose it, even when your battery is dead. Normally, you need a working phone to charge the battery (with the stock "charging cable").
This information may or may not help you. At the very least, using a "factory cable" may allow you to power your phone on, which would tell you whether the problem is your battery or the phone.

quasihellfish said:
Scratch my previous answer. Seems I misunderstood what a "factory cable" is for. It can't actually charge your battery, instead it is used to power the phone so that you can flash/diagnose it, even when your battery is dead. Normally, you need a working phone to charge the battery (with the stock "charging cable").
This information may or may not help you. At the very least, using a "factory cable" may allow you to power your phone on, which would tell you whether the problem is your battery or the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well, i'll take it regardless... i've acquired one of these mythical factory cables and it gets me into fastboot and recovery, so i'd wager, even though i haven't seen it, that it would boot all the way. so being that i don't have either the original charger (although have one that's motorola) or cable (samsung), my best bet is probably just find a store that has both an OEM motorola charger and cable even if they're not for the MB886? surely one for a moto x would work to charge battery, no?
or is this like a chicken and egg problem i now have? a catch 22? i can't charge the battery without a working phone, and i can't have a working phone without a charged battery? golly gee, anybody out there with an MB886 want to charge my battery for me? can i just hotwire the battery to a couple of leads from a charger and bypass using the phone as the charging device? at least to give the battery say 15%-20% to get something to happen... like get this rain cloud perpetually parked above me to blow over from above my head for a day or two maybe?
so, with phone plugged in with "factory cable" here's what i get and when... the phone bootloops on the "bootloader unlocked" warning screen if i don't press anything. volume down gets me fastboot, volume up gets me recovery. phone shows up in both and takes commands... so is it possible i just need to restore a nandroid backup, or is the battery charge the better bet now? i would just try the nandroid for $h!ts and giggles, but the last one i have isn't as fresh as i'd like, but is certainly usable if i must.

slerros-1.0 said:
well, i'll take it regardless... i've acquired one of these mythical factory cables and it gets me into fastboot and recovery, so i'd wager, even though i haven't seen it, that it would boot all the way. so being that i don't have either the original charger (although have one that's motorola) or cable (samsung), my best bet is probably just find a store that has both an OEM motorola charger and cable even if they're not for the MB886? surely one for a moto x would work to charge battery, no?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any generic USB charging cable SHOULD be good enough to charge and flash your phone, especially a Motorola cable. I'm currently using an old Blackberry cable for everything. They should be all the same. In rare instances, a cheap cable may give you issues (I think I had a cable from an old Samsung phone that I couldn't get to work right).
I guess just keep trying until you find one that works. Hate to tell you to go spend $20+ on an official Motorola charger...
Regarding your battery, yes you may be in a bit of a pickle. I've never had to do it, but I've read of users who had to short some leads in order to directly charge the battery. Trying searching through the forums, I'm sure the info is here.
---------- Post added at 02:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:55 PM ----------
slerros-1.0 said:
or is this like a chicken and egg problem i now have? a catch 22? i can't charge the battery without a working phone, and i can't have a working phone without a charged battery? golly gee, anybody out there with an MB886 want to charge my battery for me? can i just hotwire the battery to a couple of leads from a charger and bypass using the phone as the charging device? at least to give the battery say 15%-20% to get something to happen... like get this rain cloud perpetually parked above me to blow over from above my head for a day or two maybe?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try this: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=892026

All hope is lost, I am now looking for a replacement.
Ok, so here's where I am at with this now... As we're basically talking about any regulated power supply that can put out an excess of (around) 3.8V and 800mA I've opted to use an old ATX computer power supply and wired the mini B USB end of a cable known to have in fact to have charged this very phone... nothing. I have also, for sake of hope, even tried using the wall wort from an iPad (which puts out a cool 5.1V and up to 2.1A). The green LED will shut off after a while of being plugged into said charger, but still no booty action.
As stated before, the phone still works with the factory cable.
So, I gather from this that...
A. some hardware component (i.e. resistor, etc...) on my phones board that is involved in the charging process has gone kaput.
or
B. There is some software flag flipped somewhere that could be unflipped with or without some trickery to what actually is VS what I want the phone to think it's seeing.
Anyone have any thoughts on this or something similar pertaining to B as a course of action?
*update to my update* ... umm, which should now be up to date??
I did a complete wipe of the phone (/system, /data, /data/media, /cache, and /dalvik-cache) and reinstalled the rom... and still nothing.

Fast charging issue

So my note 9 (snapdragon) is never using fast charging and even if i manage to get it to give me fast charging it gives 1 hour 39 minutes to charge and takes 3 hours, when i charge by cable charging with disabling the fast charging setting it charges in 2 hours 10 minutes while it is cable charging not giving me fast, with the setting enabled it charges in 1 hour 59 minutes.
One side of the type-c never gives fast charging and the other side writes fast charging for 4-5 seconds then switch to cable charging and rarely doesn't switch but the charging time is 3 hours as i mentioned.
I tried everything possible other than trying to flash another software it is with the stock but unlocked.
I cleaned the socket, used 10 different chargers with different cables, wiped cache and tried safe mode and more.
Sorry for making it a long post but this problem is driving me crazy and i want to know can it be software issue not hardware because the phone is used for 2 months and the socket can't be cleaner, and if i flash the stock rom again will it be locked by T-mobile and i would need to unlock it again?
Thanks alot.

First of all, try to change the cable that 98% of the time is the problem when having these types of issues . Then consider the fact that the battery's temp influences the time needed for charging so if it's hot, software will decrease power in charging so that will give a longer time to charge. Even using the phone while charging or leaving apps in background will extend time for charging.

I have posted this so many times.
Samsung uses cheap USBc connectors that short out. Once you lose FC the only way to get it back is so get a new USBc installed by Samsung or a third party. This happened to me about 4 months after I got phone. I never fixed but I will never buy Sammy again. Its not your cables, its not the power cube, its the connector on the actual phone.

TokedUp said:
I have posted this so many times.
Samsung uses cheap USBc connectors that short out. Once you lose FC the only way to get it back is so get a new USBc installed by Samsung or a third party. This happened to me about 4 months after I got phone. I never fixed but I will never buy Sammy again. Its not your cables, its not the power cube, its the connector on the actual phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In every case, better Sammy's phone USB c connector then iPhones phone lightning connector because after a year you can't even charge the phone at all for having intermittent false contacts when you plug in the cable for the phones connector going bad....

TokedUp said:
I have posted this so many times.
Samsung uses cheap USBc connectors that short out. Once you lose FC the only way to get it back is so get a new USBc installed by Samsung or a third party. This happened to me about 4 months after I got phone. I never fixed but I will never buy Sammy again. Its not your cables, its not the power cube, its the connector on the actual phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's possible the the USB C connection is faulty, it's also possible it's a faulty charger cable or even a faulty charger .
Eliminate one by one, buy a good USB C cable to check if that cures the problem, it often does.
Whilst as Tokedup says it may be the usb socket in the phone as according to his post he didn't fix the problem it's not possible to conclusively determine the cause.
It's unlikely to be caused by software, but high ambient or high battery temperature will lead to charge rate reduction
Maybe try an app like accubattery, this will show the charge rate in mA.
With a genuine charger and cable fast charge will reach a maximum of 2800mA
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.digibites.accubattery

joedellosso69 said:
First of all, try to change the cable that 98% of the time is the problem when having these types of issues . Then consider the fact that the battery's temp influences the time needed for charging so if it's hot, software will decrease power in charging so that will give a longer time to charge. Even using the phone while charging or leaving apps in background will extend time for charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well i tried everything you said with no success.
The problem is the phone isn't fast charging at all.
I believe it's the phone socket actually.
Thanks anyways

TokedUp said:
I have posted this so many times.
Samsung uses cheap USBc connectors that short out. Once you lose FC the only way to get it back is so get a new USBc installed by Samsung or a third party. This happened to me about 4 months after I got phone. I never fixed but I will never buy Sammy again. Its not your cables, its not the power cube, its the connector on the actual phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you are right but i didn't want to believe it because i am not going to change it and risk opening my phone i can try and live with that.
Thanks

paul_59 said:
It's possible the the USB C connection is faulty, it's also possible it's a faulty charger cable or even a faulty charger .
Eliminate one by one, buy a good USB C cable to check if that cures the problem, it often does.
Whilst as Tokedup says it may be the usb socket in the phone as according to his post he didn't fix the problem it's not possible to conclusively determine the cause.
It's unlikely to be caused by software, but high ambient or high battery temperature will lead to charge rate reduction
Maybe try an app like accubattery, this will show the charge rate in mA.
With a genuine charger and cable fast charge will reach a maximum of 2800mA
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.digibites.accubattery
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I already tried alot of cables and chargers so i am sure it's not one of them and now i am nearly certain it's the socket since you said it's unlikely to be a software issue, but i really wanted to know what could've caused it because i am sure i didn't do anything wrong.
I have been monitoring accubattery for a month now everytime i charge the phone. The mA is always between 800-1200mA and the phone takes nearly 2 hours to charge.
Thanks alot mate

just to be sure that it is not software related, remove all the battery optimization related 3rd party apps. clear cache and test the phone with stock usb cable and charger that came with the phone. what i had experience is that my note 9 SM-960F is sencitive to charger. if i use a third party fast charger or cable, it give me some sort of trouble like overheating or slow charging. so make sure you are using stock charger and cable that came with phone.

Munawar Mehmood said:
just to be sure that it is not software related, remove all the battery optimization related 3rd party apps. clear cache and test the phone with stock usb cable and charger that came with the phone. what i had experience is that my note 9 SM-960F is sencitive to charger. if i use a third party fast charger or cable, it give me some sort of trouble like overheating or slow charging. so make sure you are using stock charger and cable that came with phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wiped data factory reset and cleared cache and tried safe mode so i don't think it's any of that.
the last try will be flashing the stock rom again but i am hesitant because i am afraid the phone will be locked again by T-mobile and i won't be able to unlock it
Thanks

Why not get a Samsung wireless quick-charger and try it?

A wireless charger will not be faster than cable charge but I would get one so you don't wear out that port to where it doesn't interface with a computer if needed in the future. Btw all my new phones thats the first thing I turn off is fast charging it degrades battery more over time.

TokedUp said:
I have posted this so many times.
Samsung uses cheap USBc connectors that short out. Once you lose FC the only way to get it back is so get a new USBc installed by Samsung or a third party. This happened to me about 4 months after I got phone. I never fixed but I will never buy Sammy again. Its not your cables, its not the power cube, its the connector on the actual phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When I purchased my note 9 I did a post somewhere where I said the weakest link in this phone is the Charging port. And so right from the first week I got a wireless charging pad.
Also during the rainy season I keeps saying there is moisture in the port. Basiclly god help you if you live in a place with high humidity.
Like you this is the last Samsung Note I will buy in this life. My Audio packed up after the update. I suspect the over heating caused this. And their support is outsourced in India so they don't give a hoot about your issues.
To the OP.
Try a wireless charger if that fast charges Then you know its a port issue. If that also does not fast charge then its a chip / board issue.
I predict all note 9 users are going to see more and more problems as the over heating causes components to start to fail.
You can get a new USB port with flex cable for like 4$ on ali express go for it.

Got a really messed up USB port on one+ year old Razer 2

1) Can't charge while it is in normal mode.
2) Can't charge with USB C to C
3) Can only charge using USB A to C, while the phone is turned off. It still splashes the logo and vibrates repeatedly.
The port is not visible to any laptop, so adb and fastboot seem out of the question.
The stock recovery on this device has "apply update from SD card", so I need to figure out how an update.zip should look like.
Razer have a bunch of older stock ROMs on their site.
Can I just take the latest, rename it update.zip, put it on a micro SD and use the stock recovery to fix things?

Just saw the tear down. It's worse than my N10+ port PCB to replace.
However if the battery is getting near its lifespan maybe now is the time as the battery needs to come out anyway to replace the port PCB.
The port PCB price is probably low.

blackhawk said:
Just saw the tear down. It's worse than my N10+ port PCB to replace.
However if the battery is getting near its lifespan maybe now is the time as the battery needs to come out anyway to replace the port PCB.
The port PCB price is probably low.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The other thing I just found is that when I use "apply update from ADB" it used to complain about init.usb.rc, init.usb.configfs.rc. I looked at both files. 0B length with 1969 date on them. What?
There must be some way to flash a recovery from the sd card instead of using the USB port.
The thing is the battery held the whole day after a night charge yesterday, so probably not the battery. I have a feeling some apps I used to "improve" the battery and "fix" the system deleted some bits.

pensive said:
The other thing I just found is that when I use "apply update from ADB" it used to complained about is init.usb.rc, init.usb.configfs.rc. I looked at both files. 0B length with 1969 date on them. What?
There must be some way to flash a recovery from the sd card instead of using the USB port.
The thing is the battery held the whole day after a night charge yesterday, so probably not the battery. I have a feeling some apps I used to "improve" the battery and "fix" the system deleted some bits.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have a bad usb port PCB I would replace it now.
They can cause a lot of mischief and in other services that you never expect it to.
The battery is cheap so it's easiest to replace it at the same time as you need to pull it anyway.
200 or more full charge cycles, replace.

One more thing. I bought a wireless charger to see if it is 100% the port, and the wireless charger has not made anything easier. It seems not capable of getting any charge in. So at the moment I have only one to charge it, turn it off and use USB A to USB C cable.

pensive said:
One more thing. I bought a wireless charger to see if it is 100% the port, and the wireless charger has not made anything easier. It seems not capable of getting any charge in. So at the moment I have only one to charge it, turn it off and use USB A to USB C cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably a defective charge port PCB... you can try a factory reset or reflashing the stock firmware if really want to test it.
Check for any signs of battery (rear panel or display bulging) swelling; replace battery asap if present! Batteries can fail at any time.

blackhawk said:
Probably a defective charge port PCB... you can try a factory reset or reflashing the stock firmware if really want to test it.
Check for any signs of battery (rear panel or display bulging) swelling; replace battery asap if present! Batteries can fail at any time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have now done the factory reset, didn't help. Nothing is bulging. I would like to flash a fresh factory ROM, but I have no access to the port. So, no fastboot and no adb. I can't even install proper drivers in Win10 PRO since the laptop does not recognize the phone, at all.
I am searching now for any solutions with the sd card. People used to do that, updates with *.zip on an sd.
Since it is out of warranty anyway now, I have finally unlocked the bootloader.
I am trying to find out if the ROMs Razer provide on their site are signed or not.

pensive said:
I have now done the factory reset, didn't help. Nothing is bulging. I would like to flash a fresh factory ROM, but I have no access to the port. So, no fastboot and no adb. I can't even install proper drivers in Win10 PRO since the laptop does not recognize the phone, at all.
I am searching now for any solutions with the sd card. People used to do that, updates with *.zip on an sd.
Since it is out of warranty anyway now, I have finally unlocked the bootloader.
I am trying to find out if the ROMs Razer provide on their site are signed or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The port PCB needs replaced... if you're lucky that's it.
Don't make it harder than it needs too be...

blackhawk said:
The port PCB needs replaced... if you're lucky that's it.
Don't make it harder than it needs too be...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if you have had a chance to see the USB port assembly on Ebay? Some prices are close to $120. Add to that labor costs (unless you think I should do the deed myself) or costs for tools and fresh adhesive for the plastic that covers speakers, etc... and it is going cost me more than I paid for it new.

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blackhawk said:
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Ok, thank you for finding this, but it looks like the ribon connector wire only. The PCB besides the port also has the microphone, I think. It appears to be sold as a unit. If the problem is the wire, then sure this would be the part.
In any case, I have managed to get the wireless charger to charge. Depending on how fast the charge will be lost today will tell say something about the battery.

pensive said:
Ok, thank you for finding this, but it looks like the ribon connector wire only. The PCB besides the port also has the microphone, I think. It appears to be sold as a unit. If the problem is the wire, then sure this would be the part.
In any case, I have managed to get the wireless charger to charge. Depending on how fast the charge will be lost today will tell say something about the battery.
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I'm just saying keep looking. I was surprised at the apparent lack of availability though.
Meh I feel your pain...
Maybe one of the mainstream parts venders or buy a cheap Ebay one with busted display.
My Note 10+'s port PCB goes for $20, that surprised me.

blackhawk said:
If you have a bad usb port PCB I would replace it now.
They can cause a lot of mischief and in other services that you never expect it to.
The battery is cheap so it's easiest to replace it at the same time as you need to pull it anyway.
200 or more full charge cycles, replace.
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Unfortunately replacing the USB charge board and port in the phone doesn't always fix it. I have a box of nearly a dozen RP2 main boards I need to dig through to figure out what the actual cause of the charging boot loop

KaptinBoxxi said:
Unfortunately replacing the USB charge board and port in the phone doesn't always fix it. I have a box of nearly a dozen RP2 main boards I need to dig through to figure out what the actual cause of the charging boot loop
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Have you played with any OS shortcut apps on it?
The Android Setup apk will get screwed up if you access it after the original setup.
Specifically it will alter the port behavior when you connect with it. Very irritating, took me days to finally track it down on my 10+
If you clear it's data in settings it may leave the null mark that's screwing it up. Some 3rd party apps can completely clear that null mark.
Otherwise factory reset.

blackhawk said:
Have you played with any OS shortcut apps on it?
The Android Setup apk will get screwed up if you access it after the original setup.
Specifically it will alter the port behavior when you connect with it. Very irritating, took me days to finally track it down on my 10+
If you clear it's data in settings it may leave the null mark that's screwing it up. Some 3rd party apps can completely clear that null mark.
Otherwise factory reset.
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This is a hardware issue, nothing any kind of reset can fix or app clearing. Even if you have the device entirely powered off, plug it in on anything 2Amp or higher, it'll loop

KaptinBoxxi said:
This is a hardware issue, nothing any kind of reset can fix or app clearing. Even if you have the device entirely powered off, plug it in on anything 2Amp or higher, it'll loop
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That's not how the issue I saw behaved; only happened with the device powered on and it didn't boot loop. Just an annoying pop up message.
If it has a port PCB, try replacing that. If it's just a charge port with no components on it... it's likely either corrupted firmware (reflash) or a mobo failure.
A loose connection or bad contact is also possible.
That's my guess...