Hi, can anyone advise how to identify contacts tocreate a battery jumper ? Battery connector on boardis dead, I need to connect replace contacts. SonyXperia 1 II, XQ-AT51 . Thanks
Hi, battery jumper already done, xperia works. But it doesn't charge. It can't even connect to the PC with a cable. It won't charge, no charging light or anything. Any ideas? All cables are connected correctly.
O next problem, fake charging
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m is..
I, at least, have no idea what you are talking about.
What are you doing? Show a photo of your wiring.
Are you trying to power your device without a battery?
The battery is connected, but the charging does not work
So in more detail, the contacts = Th, BS, ID, P+ P-, are connected exactly at the place of the connector. The phone shows 0% battery and does not charge, cannot be turned on, but gives a signal when connected to the charger. Battery voltage is 3.70v. If I disconnect the "ID" contact, the phone turns on and shows 20% battery. But it also does not charge, but after connecting to the charger, it makes a sound notification about charging. It shows 20% status even if the battery has both 3.85v and 3.70v
Where is a problem?
Flex cable?, resistor, battery.?
Are you running the battery on an extension cable?
Are you using an incompatible battery?
What is a "battery jumper"?
5 posts and still nobody knows what you are talking about.
Renate said:
Are you running the battery on an extension cable?
Are you using an incompatible battery?
What is a "battery jumper"?
5 posts and still nobody knows what you are talking about.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-yes
-no, i using original sony.
- battery jumper is connecting battery with motherboard , if connector on motherboard is broken.
Photo, please.
Renate said:
Fotku, prosím.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would presume that you're destroyed the PCB, lifted pads, broken vias and that there is enough flux/contamination/gook that it's all shorted.
That's if we even presume that you've got the wiring correct.
You may never get that to charge. You'd be lucky if you can make this thing run off a power supply.
You can try cleaning very carefully the PCB with isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs.
At least you'll be able to see better what you have.
New wiring problem same. I need a hardware skill person. The battery voltage is 3.95v. Ampere app shows 7.99v.
There is no short circuit!
Your NTC is open.
try to get the pcb data for made the proper connections
Renate said:
Your NTC is open.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ntc resistor? Will a new battery fix this?
It's probably your wiring, not the NTC.
tutibreaker said:
try to get the pcb data for made the proper connections
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have been searching for over three weeks with no success. There is no schematic for the XQ-AT51 anywhere.
NiaNils said:
There is no schematic for the XQ-AT51 anywhere.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, you're not ever going to find any schematics for anything.
Take a 10k resistor and connect one end to a nice grounded shield.
Touch the other end to the wire that you think is the "Th".
Does the temperature go up to ~25°C?
If there is no change then the problem lies with the wire connection to PCB or PCB.
If there is a change then the problem lies with the wire connection to the battery pack or the battery.
Renate said:
No, you're not ever going to find any schematics for anything.
Take a 10k resistor and connect one end to a nice grounded shield.
Touch the other end to the wire that you think is the "Th".
Does the temperature go up to ~25°C?
If there is no change then the problem lies with the wire connection to PCB or PCB.
If there is a change then the problem lies with the wire connection to the battery pack or the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What resistor should I use exactly? How many Watts? Thanks for help
NiaNils said:
What resistor should I use exactly? How many Watts? Thanks for help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mmm, (5V^2) / 10,000 ohms = 2.5 milliwatts.
So any power resistor will do. A 1/4W resistor has 100 times the power rating necessary.
10,000 ohm should be 25°C.
If you don't have one, you can use another resistor, but keep it sane, from 2200 ohm to 22,000 ohm.
Related
I have the HTC orginal car charger with Mini-USB connector. This car charger has and intelligent chip "IC" to prevent overheating when charge is 100%
Now, HD2 has a MICRO connector. My question is, if I use it with a mini-to-micro converter, will this "IC" feature continue working?
Talking about this:
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And this:
wat, IC stands for integrated circuit.
Also, the charging mechanism to prevent overcharging or damage to batteries is on the device (phone) not the adapter.
Yes, the phone sends the "charged" signal, adapter receives it and stops charging and turns light indicator off.
What I am saying is that maybe the mini to micro converter will prevent that signal to be sent and hence continue charging/overheating?
Hello,i've the same thing and it works fine . All pins are connected in the adaptator .
pckshd said:
Yes, the phone sends the "charged" signal, adapter receives it and stops charging and turns light indicator off.
What I am saying is that maybe the mini to micro converter will prevent that signal to be sent and hence continue charging/overheating?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no it's the phone that's drawing the current, not the adapter. Adapter is a "dumb" servant that serves current upon request.
the converter is just a wiring converter so again ther'es no intelligence involved.
Thank you!
I have 2 of that EXACT converters shown in the photo above... IT DOES NOT WORK!!!
For some reason, my phone will not charge when I use that adaptor... I also bought a Motorola one which works well
Thanks for the info!. Will get the Motorola converter as well...
This one right? http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-SKN6252-Sprint-Motorola-Renegade/dp/B0012DRDH2
pckshd said:
Thanks for the info!. Will get the Motorola converter as well...
This one right? http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-SKN6252-Sprint-Motorola-Renegade/dp/B0012DRDH2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup That one works fine and data works also... you can charge and sync with it
I have this
and cant sync with it, only charge, and i dont know why, because all pin are connect in two sides.
Guys,
I use Motorola P513 microUSB car charger. It works like a charm. After fully charged HD2 disconnects from it so there's no possibility to overheating. I really recommend it. An it looks fancy too
http://www.motorola.com/Consumers/U...gers/P513-microUSB-Car-Charger-89143N-US-EN-2
Price about $14 in Poland
psdos said:
I have this
and cant sync with it, only charge, and i dont know why, because all pin are connect in two sides.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude... 1 have two of those and they both wont charge... not in car, via charger or anywhere else.... I was so pissed off as I got two of them... thank goodness for the Motorola one I ordered as a backup. That one even allows sync
THe one showing in the picture... when I plug it on the cable with the other end in the cigarette lighter adaptor, the cigaretter indicator light goes out on that end as if a circuit has been cut.... this happens even without anything plugged in and happens with both adaptors I bought... nothing charges also.... pissed me off!
from what i see that is also a surge protector. 8v to 3v, being a surge protector, it has a capacitor inside, and that will naturally block all data connection.
eskasi said:
... thank goodness for the Motorola one I ordered as a backup. That one even allows sync
....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you provide a link to that motorola adaptor ?
I have searched Ebay and all the adaptors I found, specify they can only charge the phone, but not transfer data.
For some of them I also asked the sellers, and they said just the same - Charge ONLY.
Thanks
Som30ne said:
Could you provide a link to that motorola adaptor ?
I have searched Ebay and all the adaptors I found, specify they can only charge the phone, but not transfer data.
For some of them I also asked the sellers, and they said just the same - Charge ONLY.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-MicroUSB-Adapter-RAZR2-SKN6252/dp/B001EJFZ5G
This is the one... as long as it looks like this... I am using it right now as I type this
Thanks for the reply.
I tried checking where and how they ship - and (as in many other cases) it seems they only shim within the US.
Since Im not in the US . . .
Is there any other one ?
About the comment that says - "as long as it looks like this" - well - I saw several of them, and as I mentioned in my previous post - they specify that they (the ones I saw) only charges the device, and when I asked the seller - they aslo claimed that it's only for charging, and does not transfer data.
(maybe they look the same on the outside, but the wiring is different ? - I wonder)
Be careful.
By the time you plug a mini USB plug into such an micro adapter, the potential leverage on the phone / micro socket will be quite considerable!
Why? What do you mean exactly?
The above one piece adaptor together with the charger's Mini USB plug is similarly rigid & I'm guessing about 2½ to 3 inches long - maybe 10 to 12 times the length of the actual micro socket! Some 10:1 leverage ratio. Maybe 3 times as much as without an adaptor.
I doubt that the design spec of a USB micro socket was ever designed to withstand the potential force that even mild accidental input leverage applied at a right angle would exert, on conversion to output leverage, on the phone's socket. For example, the leads tend to be 1 metre and are quite restricting. with the lead at right angles to the phone, 'testing' the cables length, the 'moment of force' (technical term) applied is likely to exceed the the design spec of the socket many fold.
I am suggesting there is a risk of separating the socket from the phone's chassis and/or its electrical connections to the printed circuit board within the phone.
At the vary least, due to the cables inherent stiffness, over a period of time the phones micro socket will get enlarged / bell shaped simply from small gentle leverage movements. IE. whilst USB connected, simply picking up the phone, messaging, or making a call. Eventually electrical / mechanical connections will gradually fail.
To reduce, but not eliminate this effect, I would suggest an adaptor cable as opposed to a one piece adaptor.
(Think I've waffled a bit here, but hope I've conveyed what I mean)
Completely stock, no mods.
Woke the phone up this morning to check twitter, email etc.
All of a sudden, it gives the beep sound, "mtp initialization" sound, media scanning messages, then loops around and does it again and again and again.
The only way to stop it was to connect it to the charger. Once disconnected, it starts doing it again. Took out the battery, SIM, SD card. Left it sit without those for 5 min. Plugged it back in and a few minutes later it started doing it again.
Any ideas???
It's run all day today without an issue. Battery down to 72%. Just connected
it up via USB to charge it a bit.
Only thing I did was to remove the mSD card and blow some air around the SD card & slot.
Bad SD card????
I think it might be a bad USB port
If I bang it slightly against a desk (rubber case), it stops doing it.
Sometimes if I pull the battery & put it back in, the battery logo thingy
comes up, it won't power up for a few seconds, then it will.
I got this via Amazon...it's a German version (DBT).
Anyone know a USA location for warranty service?
ah its probably pucsed up. The phantom usb connection syndrom. We should partition for a usb hole cover from Samsung
You got lint/dust in there m8 use compressed air or a fine brush to clean. check if that solves it. I had to clean mine several times. Never even saw the dust in there myself.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2
Dust? That's interesting....that port IS open to the elements.
That does sound like what it is doing. It thinks I'm connecting/disconnecting
the cable. How would dust "short out" a connection?
I'll give it a blast of canned air. Any suggestions (removing the battery) on hitting
it with a brush & alcohol?
green stuff inside port
I took my loop & was looking inside the port and found what appeared to be
some greenish corrosion inside the port?
Found a closeup photo of a microusb port and painted in the area where the
green contamination was. I took out the battery & used a stiff non metallic
brush to clean it out, then hit it with a can of compressed air.
So far, it's behaving...
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yeah, the dust I had was inside the phones usb jacket.
Corrosion, that sounds like issues people were having with sgs. Not a good sign. It shouldnt have that.
I got my info here
androidforums.com/samsung-galaxy-s/...stays-after-usb-disconnected.html#post1850661
I cleaned mine with a small dental brush, the ultra fine ones and nothing else. I didnt have to clean battery thought. best to power of unit thought wouldnt want to short it when brushing
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2
That makes sense. Thanks for that link. The description from xphoneguy makes about as much sense as anything else. Especially his photos looked a lot like what I was seeing inside my usb port.
from the link you posted...
Why does this fix the problem? Well, I used to design cell phones, and I know a thing or two about the external connectors on phones. The phone has to have some way of detecting that something has been plugged into the connector. Micro USB connectors do not have a mechanical switch to detect the presence of a plug in the socket. If these connectors work the way USB OTG (On-The-Go) connectors work, there is a resistor in the cable between two of the pins. The phone attempts to pass a small amount of current through that resistor to detect the presence of the cable. When there is debris in the connector, like cotton fuzz from clothing, tiny bits of soap from washing, and tiny flakes of dead skin, and you add humidity from perspiration or rain, etc. you create little blobs of slightly conductive goo that can bridge the gap between the pins. That blob of goo looks just like a resistor to the electronics in the phone. So the phone thinks there's always something plugged into the connector. Why have some people been able to fix the problem with settings then? I suspect that they found settings that cause the phone to stop checking for a USB cable or to ignore the signal that tells the OS that something is plugged in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've misplaced my wall charger for my 8.9, I'm trying to build one at work. I know it's 5 volts at 2 amps, but my question is, are the data lines crossed like on the Charger for the Captivate? Thanks.
Well, Shorting the TX/RX lines didn't trigger 2amp charging.
Are you running a stock kernel ?
You'll need to be running Motleys kernel or CM9/AOKP for usb charging
I'm running Motleys kernel.
It was only pulling .5 amp with the data pins, open and shorted.
did you run the script to enable USB charging ?
There's a widget someone made on the 10.1 that does the scriptydoodah bit for you, I'll have a poke around and see if I can find the post
Edit - Can't find the post, but here's the widget apk
Can't credit who it was that made it, when I can find the post though I'll edit this with the credit
Interesting. So the CM9/AOKP kernels support USB charging?
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But by default will it only pull in 0.5amp? I use the tablet in my car and right now it discharges (slowly) when it is docked.
Will the script change that so I don't need to take the tablet inside once a week and charge it?
ghost__ said:
But by default will it only pull in 0.5amp? I use the tablet in my car and right now it discharges (slowly) when it is docked.
Will the script change that so I don't need to take the tablet inside once a week and charge it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I thought it was like with the captivate(they cross the datalines and then the device knows its on the charger), but no.
Flan, the apk linked, I downloaded, it but it won't parse?
That is incredibly disappointing. I never used the stock and always just assumed that this was an issue that was related to AOKP and would go away once Samsung released their official ICS build.
muffdoc said:
Yes, I thought it was like with the captivate(they cross the datalines and then the device knows its on the charger), but no.
Flan, the apk linked, I downloaded, it but it won't parse?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very odd, worked on both stock with Motley's kernel and as you can see works on CM9, that was using the stock charger lead but lugged into the USB port of my laptop, it does charge slower, but certainly puts in more than it's using
No worries mate.
I have the script on the tab already, the widget would of been cool, but I just threw it on the charger and I don't get the red slash over the battery when I have it connected, so shorting the data lines, may have done the trick.
I'm also wondering if I connect the two USB ports together, would I be able to pass data between my Cappy and the 8.9, like a crossover cable and to PC's and no hub.
Damn my rambling mind.
I have stock 3.2 Rom with _motley kernel and my USB charging works for some reason, without any scripts... Like, when I turn the screen off, it goes upto 100%, but as I turn the screen on it is slowly draining the battery to a certain point.
Yes because when it is connected via USB the tablet only requests 0.5amps of power but when the screen is on + wifi + BT, etc the tablet uses more power than it is bringing in. Therefore, despite it reporting that it is charging it is actually draining the battery.
What are you charging it off ?
I left mine plugged into my laptop overnight with wifi, gps and BT all turned on and it charged fully in 8 hours
Deal Extreme charger
I use china adapter as an extra. SKU: 115525 at deal extreme. The one loader that doens't make my tablet nag it isn't charging when on.
muffdoc said:
Well, Shorting the TX/RX lines didn't trigger 2amp charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I also found that shorting these lines did not enable the 2amp charging mode. Also I found that many chargers are designed to charge Apple devices and they put 2V on one data pin and 2.8V on the other, but this also will not enable 2amp charging on the Samsung 8.9. It turns out that the Samsung charger puts both data pins were at about 1.2V which is necessary to cause the Galaxy tab to report its status as "Charging (AC)".
I built an adapter cable (see attached schematic and pictures) which insures that the data pins are at the expected 1.2V. With this cable in place the Galaxy tablet reports its status as "Charging (AC)" when I hook it up to any of my high current wall or auto chargers regardless of which device the charger was designed for.
~Paul
also you can read my tests here
So i accidently plugged in the usb the wrong way and the phone shut off. Have tried every button combination and holding down the powerbutton numerous times with no success. Led light doesn't light up and have tried leaving it in the charger for various hours and used different chargers. My next step was to disassemble the phone and hope a battery pull did the trick but that didn't work. However when I disconnect the black battery connector and plug in a usb the red led lights up for about 15 seconds and dissapears.
anyone know any possible solutions? I think my battery might have fried
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Is there a way to jump the battery and hope that that works? I've jumped plenty of batteries on phones with removable batteries but I'm not sure if the Z has metal contacts for negative and positve
no one?
normally any device that has DC input (like usb) is secured with diodes so that even when a faulty charger is connected it doesn't fry. But that's my electrical knowledge speaking. Please reply when you found out what the problem is
laandennis said:
normally any device that has DC input (like usb) is secured with diodes so that even when a faulty charger is connected it doesn't fry. But that's my electrical knowledge speaking. Please reply when you found out what the problem is
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My One X did fry when I connected it to a car charger not too long ago
still no luck on this phone however
How did you even manage to connect the usb the wrong way? lol
wawyed said:
How did you even manage to connect the usb the wrong way? lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
**** happens lol what sucks is that as soon as it made contact the phone turned off
adolfo778 said:
My One X did fry when I connected it to a car charger not too long ago
still no luck on this phone however
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright thx for the info but maybe you had another problem with you charger and the transformation from 12V to 5V was bad, that can't be controlled with only a diode. Or maybe your One X hadn't any security internally because the manufacturer wanted to save money on that component / no place anymore to put it in the phone.
Think I have something similar..... Connected to car charger, led didn't go red,pushed charger in moved wire in phone charger goes off, phone won't start tried all button combos.
Sad bit is I only just got phone 3 days ago:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
Sent from my C5303 using xda premium
Can anyone else comment on this? I recently did this and my Xperia Z will not turn on. Would replacing the battery work or is the damage related to the other internals?
Do you see any damage to the usb port?
ngvuanh said:
Do you see any damage to the usb port?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No I don't see any damage to the USB port.
I did the same to my xperia Z1 (reverse biased it using usb and 5 volts wires) The battery however had charge so as soon as I connected the phone restarted and could not charge any more. Any solution please ????
Might be an old post but I had the same problem. I was fixing a cable (18V) and I wanted the range the cable in the corner. I was so lazy to use a screw driver or something else. So I used what I have in my hand: The jack cable, plugged into my phone. So I used the bare part of the cable (Don't ask me why, I don't know). I don't remember if my phone restarted, but he was fine. But not my jack connector. When I plug an earphone it says that my earphones are not recognized. So I change it (by my self) But still the same problem...
Seems like the problem comes from somewhere else.
do you found the fried parts of your phone or fixed it ?
i have same issue today i connected an experimental cable (v+ was placed into gnd pin and gnd to v+) to my lumia 625 and it flashes then shut off immediately now it show no sign of life not charging not turning on
anyone knows what parts have been fried ?
Hi,
A maniac stole my phone and almost destroyed it. No more screen. Sadly I had some photos from my kids, birthday party and did not backup them :/
When I pluged the phone to a windows computer I see Pixel 7 on the device manager. I think I activated the developper mode though
I went to my local IT strore and he tried with an USB-C-HDMI adapter to see the screen on a computer screen, nothing appears.
Any hint ?
Thanks !
PS : Next move, buy a new pixel 7, plug a mouse and make the same movement to click the right digit and get in the phtone :/
Do u try to transfer data to new phone using USB cable?
One solution is to buy a replacement screen and connect it. You don't have to install it, just let it dangle.
What is your screen lock? If it's alphanumeric you can just use a keyboard.
You need to see what USB interfaces are active. MTP? ADB?
I wrote something to let a master Android login swipe a slave Android, see: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/accessing-my-phone-with-a-dead-screen.4542763/post-88013171
I try to save some pictures in DCIM with an USB cable to my computer. Should I try with another phone ? ???
A replacement screen is about 250 €
How do I know which interface is active ?
In your solution the slave Android seems to have adb active.
hubertes said:
In your solution the slave Android seems to have adb active.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the slave has to simply support OTG (which I'm sure the P7 does).
The master is acting like an absolute digitizer (and not a relative mouse) and also a keyboard.
If ADB is not on, this allows you to navigate to Settings and turn it on.
It's not simple or easy.
You'd need a rooted master of any random model.
You'll probably want a 3rd Android to test the master Android.
You'd need reference screenshots from some helpful P7 owner.
The video shows how, with a BT keyboard paired to the master Android.
There is the additional problem of there being no "hot key" for settings.
You'd have to remember where it was on your launcher.
OTOH, if you did have ADB already enabled all you have to do is unlock the P7.
Even if the screen is black the touch sensing may/may not be broken.
Use this utility https://ftdichip.com/utilities/#MicrosoftUSBView (or lsusb -v if you're on Linux).
Find your device in the left pane and copy/paste the text in the right.
(You can redact your serial number.)
It's really nice to help me like u do
Sadly it seems that my destroyed pixel 7 stoped to send data to my computer. I don't see anything on my w$ devices.
Do someone know if the motherboard "starts" with only the battery pluged-in ?
Which pin should be active to start up ?
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Most devices that have a battery require a battery.
Batteries include a circuit board with the BMS (battery management system).
You're showing four contacts, quite a common setup.
One is for minus, one for plus, one usually for a 10k NTC thermistor to minus.
The fourth could be a simple resistor as identification of the battery pack or a one wire communication to some monitoring on the battery pack.
I'd need a better photo to say anything.
Is that your board? Did you remove it from the case?
You should probably just try to run things normally with the battery connected.
Ok, I often run Androids on a power supply but it requires care and a bit of know-how.
The advantage is that you can see if/how the device is booting.
I think this is a Moto E6 booting up, but I forget.
Found 0 ohm between contactor 1 and 4 when I push the power button in regard to those pins, so it should be it.
I still have 10 % hope, but the battery wont charge anymore...
NB : motherboard photo is from here
Did you check the battery for voltage?
With 99% certainty the two power pins are the outside two.
Is it possible that more than the screen was damaged?
It seems more likely that without an active screen you left it on until the battery died?
Heck, this thing is practically brand new.
Edit: Huh? I saw the video. The battery is connected on a mezzanine connector. I thought that first photo you posted was showing the battery connector.
It sucks that apparently the P7 only natively supports "GoogleCast" and not a Type C alt-mode video.
You can't get a slightly damaged (but working) screen from a repair place? You could just plug it in. Even just to borrow one.
The battery pion is so uncommon(mezzaine connector ?), I d'ont know where to make the measure :/
Yes it is possible, like I said it was a maniqac who destroyed my phone
The phone was 80 % full and left for a week end on the ground under water but fliped back (no water on the motherboard)
Yeah, my phone was 2 month old :/
NO video possible through usb C then ?
The screen costs approximatively 250 €. The maniac destroyed it ion purpose (connector screen riped of)
So the screen was actually removed?
I presume that you've tried to charge it?
Do you have one of those little USB adapters that measure voltage/current?
Can you see if it's trying to charge?
You won't be able to probe/measure anything on the mezzanine connector easily.
Since you're not sure of what is working, this is one of those cases where measuring current on the USB and the voltage/current on the battery are your first steps.
You might want to CAREFULLY remove the battery and take off the tape at the top of the battery until you can see the two tabs of the actual battery.
Be very careful not to short anything!
Do you have an adjustable bench power supply?
Hi,
Don't have those tester. Went to my it store, nothing's charging whern pluged in :/ I did remove the tape, but don't see any +/- tabs :/
could I try with the wireless charger ?
I could have such a bench in my highschool yes.
hubertes said:
I did remove the tape, but don't see any +/- tabs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you remove enough layers of tape (only on the TOP of the battery where the flex circuit goes in) you should see some shiny (somewhat) flexible tabs about 5mm wide.
Don't bend them too much and break them.