just now (like 2 hours ago) my newly fixed PC bluescreened. (something about my network drivers (NVNRM.SYS)
I reboot, graphics card posts and..... reboot. (endless loop)
so, with computing coursework due in tomorrow i grab my hard drive and, with his permission slot it into my dad's computer (the only other one with sata). and turn it on.
Same result, his pc (which he runs a business with) is going through the same loop as mine, i try unpluging the hard drive, but it still does the same.
basically now i have no coursework for tomorrow, a broken PC, my dads business pc broken AND im gunna get it in the neck from my parents...
maybe ill see you in a few weeks when i get the netz back....
over and out.
Yep..
It's caused by the Nvidea hardware firewall chip in your mobo.. specifically nVidia Network Access Manager driver (if your get a bad call on nvnrm, then you definately have it install even if you didn't know.)
If you can boot in to safe mode either reinstall the software for your mobo chipset, and/or disable it.
It's very common (the nvidea chip doesn't and has NEVER worked properly from conception) and with vista here, things are even worse.
If you can't boot into safe mode you are SOL.
And the fact that it's happening even with an HDD transfer means that it's probably done something to your main disc sectors, which also happens.
On you dad's pc, remove the HDD, boot in safe and disable the nvidea chipset.. this might get it back.. on yours.. safe mode reinstall and reinsert.
Post back on your progress.
dude neither machine can even post (and yeh we had the network access manager on, it seemed quite good, untill i changed the frame size on my ethernet and it bluescreened...)
See if you can manually disable it using something like BartPE or a Knoppix livecd.
it wont post, so no chance.
Can you go into the CMOS setup?
I mean, can you press "DEL" (or F1, ESC, or whatever works with your motherboard) to get into the setup? Then, check if anything is wrong, may be, reset to default values?
I think you cannot, because if I understood well, your computer doesn't even ends with the POST.
Then, you might have one out of two problems, you damaged your bios in some way (have you considered that you might have had a virus and that it damaged your bios?), bios is now saved in EEPROMS, normally actual ones are rewritten directly with nothing more than 5 volts, just by special commands (that allows you to upgrade your bios with nothing else than a program, that's something you can do!).
The other situation involves a defective "primary" component in the motherboard or attached to it and absolutely necessary to it's basic fuctions -according to your actual system setup-, so, POST can halt also for a defective lan card, video card, etc. Today's POSTs normally let you know what's wrong, back in the old days, post could be "heard" by a series of beeps (that you might still hear with your MoBo), also, back on those days, there where POST card readers, that "captured" the current post test code and showed it, then you could use a post table (those got wildly different from each other as technology evolved) to find out the problem.
Now, most computer components are so cheap and most people know "something" about computers, so "repairing" was performed almost by anyone.
I'm not old, neither young, but, I can give you two ways of going out of this situation (if you haven't do so yet).
Easier one:
go and grab yourself a couple od motherboards (one for you and one for your dad), change them, and you're done.
Harder one:
See if you can repair/reinstallate your bios, go the mother board's maker site, download whatever you need and try.
Hope it helps and good luck
Related
Any help would be grateful on this one
I have just changed the heat sink on my 9300 wifi ITX motherboard GF9300-D-E.
It will not boot windows as it gets to the starting screen and stops. Then when i tried linux it will kernal panic and not boot that either.
I thought it was memory and removed one of the sticks. This is when things started to get strange. The bios screen did not fit my monitor as it should, has done previously, also there are strange flickering on this as well.
So i have tried it with both sticks in one stick [both tried]
Now I am a little stuck as to what it can be. I have also reset the bios to a default state to see if that was the problem and it was not.
There is also the issue that on some boots the bios will not fully load up.
If this is not an issue with the motherboard then i am sorry but i am a little stuck for the reason at the moment.
So anyone any ideas on this as I'm a little stuck. Any other info will be added if you think its necessary but i think its all covered.
Please help I miss my desktop, my ageing 5 yr laptop really does not cut it any more
have you tried safe mode? press f8 when windows is starting. if you get a blue screen post what the error message is.
Yeh the one time i got that far i had
Page_access_in_non_paged_area
That was also on a recovery boot of windows.
Next time nothing happened...
Also i get weird graphics glitches on the memory test from ubuntu. if that means anything to anyone
chris10230 said:
Yeh the one time i got that far i had
Page_access_in_non_paged_area
That was also on a recovery boot of windows.
Next time nothing happened...
Also i get weird graphics glitches on the memory test from ubuntu. if that means anything to anyone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i need the stop code. it goes like this 0x000000 and so on.
Yeh i would love to post that error message but i cannot get that far until it crashes
I got to the windows system recovery hit enter, then it stopped working
Now it wont even give me a video output! Really starting to think its hardware, but what hardware i do not know. Later im gonna try some RAM from my house mates pc and see if it does any better. If that doesn't work then i think i may be RMAing the motherboard as its the only other thing it can be!
If you have any more ideas joe then i would be welcome to hear them as i would rather not go down the RMA route...
Wish id noted down that bluescreen when it came up now
sounds like your video card. is your video card onboard or add in?
on board but i can disable if i have an external one, i can try this as well house mate has a spare will get back to you when i have tried that one as well.
If it is that then def an rma job. Also i would not be surprised it has been idling at 70/80 degrees C for about 8 months due to the passive cooler i had on it.
Hey,
I had this error, and a range of other ones, stuff like Memory_Error etc (can't remember codes), on my laptop earlier this year.
I tried memtextx86, and burnin, as I suspected it was an issue with ram - I also tried 3 different sets of rams, with different combinations of sticks. Nothing worked.
Unfortunatley, I took it back to the manufacturer and it was the motherboard had gone faulty.
I hope this isn't the case for you, but those 2 programs may be worth trying. Just as a note, neither reported any issues with the ram.
When in windows (vista at the time) I could not be in for more then 20mins without a system hang and crash. Although I did have video out.
Hope this helps
Stu
If the only thing you changed before it started to play up was the heat sink, its probably the cause.
If its turning on and then playing up after a period of time for no apparent reason it could be heat.
Is the heatsink on the right way? I put my amd stock heatsink on backwards when I installed it, didn't notice for 2 months, it wasn't touching the processor at all. Funny when I look back on it.
Did you put thermal paste on it? I once thought it would be a great idea to clean all of that gunk off my cpu, not so good in hindsight.
Hope it helps,
They say you learn from your mistakes, an I've broke more computers than I can count.
stu i shall try at the weekend one more exam and im free for another year!
and mercianary yeh i did clean the paste off, i did apply paste, but going back is a good point as i think there may be slight sizing issues with the heatsink i changed it for. As for temps, not real problem i think as i want from a passive heat sink to one with a fan so it must be cooler, that was the idea anyway.
It was idling at 45-55 if it did anything that needed the whole chip, its a 3ghz core2duo it hit 65 easy and it starts to underclock at 70 so i wanted it to be cooler so i could use all the power all of the time! In hindsight a bad idea.
Also on the grounds of the stock cooler that is broken as it kinda got stuck on the motherboard when i put it on one of the clips went straight through and jammed....
anyway everyone who has replied thanks i will come back when i have done some testing.
Hey guys, need some help here, I was takin a leak while texting and I dropped my phone in lol. Well I tried the soaking in rice trick, it helped, it turns on now but the touch screen and key board don't work. Its really slow and almost unresponsive. the menu talk home back and end buttons seem to barely work. So here's the deal, I need my contacts off the phone. I have some saved to the sim but most were saved to the phone. I can't get to the home screen because I have a lock pattern, and the touch screen doesn't work. I never did that google sync deal so I can't log in and get them from google. What can I do guys? Please help.
The Unknown 777 said:
What can I do guys? Please help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Buy a new phone
That's genius good thinking. I don't care about the phone I just need to get the contacts off, does anybody know a way?
If you can ADB into the phone, you may still be able to pull the files off. I don't know how useful they would be on anything but a rooted Android phone though (meaning I don't know how Android stores the contact info.)
Sorry man but what's adb? And its not rooted or modified in any way. I tried using mymobiler but that didn't work either
Install the latest SDK tools here: http://developer.android.com/sdk/index.html
and to install them' follow these directions: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=532719
Ok ill try that tonight when I get home, but am I gonna be able to install that on my phone the way it is? It will boot up to the lock pattern screen but I can't go any farther than that
You don't need to mount your phone or anything
just connect the phone via USB cable to the computer and install the drivers.
The instructions are also on the 2nd link I've given you.
Let it dry then turn on.
Put it in the sun and use a blow dryer to attempt and salvage it...
Sucks man, never had it happen to me but someone very wise told me the above.
pull apart
rinse with rubbing alcohol
let dry
place on aluminum foil
place in oven ~ 200 for 10-20 minutes
let cool
reassemble
power on and hope for the best
Or put in a baggy full of rice.
actually if put it in a bowl (a bag will trap moisture) of wheat or long grain rice (no uncle bens) and let it soak. Its happened to me before and the rice sucks out the moisture everytime. Take phone apart, battery, sdcard sim let it sit in rice for a few days.
Don't watch it though, its worse than watching water boil. Give up on it, and let it surprise you with a Dream.
-------------------------------------
Sent via the XDA Tapatalk App
AustinAce said:
Or put in a baggy full of rice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
water had minerals in it that conduct electricity.... and moisture in the air could cause it to conduct and kill the phone even more/all the way. rice will not remove the minerals. alcohol on the other had does, and evaporates. baking it removes the moisture
This worked for me before
It wasn't an android phone but I've dropped a window's mobile phone and it JUST SO HAPPENS to end up right in a cup of juice. Not only that, but I put it in a bowl of water to make sure the circuits didn't get messed up from dried up sugar per advice from someone on google and then took the battery, back sim card, etc out/apart and sat it in front of a fan for a few days. After about the 4th or 5th (I don't remember) it came back on. The screen wasn't "FULLY" functional until a couple of days after that, but you might at least be able to get it on enough to get your info. Hope that helps.....
I'm 99% sure you DID log into Google. If you're not rooted I'm 100% sure you logged into Google. After that contacts auto sync is pretty much automatic to your Google account unless you are a complete idiot and disabled it from settings.
Phones are too complicated for DIY stuff, hardware-wise at least.
When you drop a phone (or any electronic device) in water, the first thing you do is pull out the battery immediately, and all other power inputs, and don't even think about touching the power button, and then take it to a professional repair shop.
Phones contain BGA chips, which is complicated and hard to deal with, the slightest moisture under or in the chip (that's right, inside the chip, read about BGA Baking) might cause disasters, or at least instability, and only professionals trained in the BGA & Phones (not just any pro) field should handle it.
Source: Experience and field of work
And about the contacts problem, could you give us more info, like SPL version? totally Stock ROM? RC29?
If you get a recovery image on this phone, you can do a BART backup, and restore it on another one, and get your contacts, should work, but I never tried it.
Ok guys this is what I have so far. its been soaking in rice for a while now, but I was an idiot and powered it on right after I got it wet, I also powered it on several times periodically to check on it. I can still turn it on now but like I said keyboard and touch screen are f***ed. I'm using my new g1 so I don't feel like quoting everybody so ill just go like this,
To the guy that gave me the guide on installing the sdk, here's the issues I'm having. I'm unable to even get sdk setup to work. I downloaded the drivers, I put them in the android sdk folder which is on c:/. When I connect my phone even though I uninstalled the driver fot android with deviewer every time I would reconnect it, it automatically reinstalled the android driver as a mass storage device. So I went into the control panel and installed the adb driver manually. Now when I connect it, it pops up as android adb. However sdk setup still doesn't work. When I click setup it flashes a command prompt for a split second and does nothing else. Ill also say my pc is junk and and I can't open cmd or task manager for some reason(virus maybe?) So what am I missing here?
To whoever asked what version and stuff the phone is, I believe its the latest update and I haven't done any soft mods to it, not rooting or anything.
To whoever said something about doing a BART back up and transferring files to my new g1, how do I do that? that's what I really need to do.
ar2000jp said:
Phones are too complicated for DIY stuff, hardware-wise at least.
When you drop a phone (or any electronic device) in water, the first thing you do is pull out the battery immediately, and all other power inputs, and don't even think about touching the power button, and then take it to a professional repair shop.
Phones contain BGA chips, which is complicated and hard to deal with, the slightest moisture under or in the chip (that's right, inside the chip, read about BGA Baking) might cause disasters, or at least instability, and only professionals trained in the BGA & Phones (not just any pro) field should handle it.
Source: Experience and field of work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
before moisture sensitive components (IC/BGA/FBGA/etc) are run through assembly those components are brought up to 125c (257f) for 4 hours to drive the moisture out. then they are place on the PBC with the pick and place after they get the solder mask. then placed into the soldering oven.
The Unknown 777 said:
Ok guys this is what I have so far. its been soaking in rice for a while now, but I was an idiot and powered it on right after I got it wet, I also powered it on several times periodically to check on it. I can still turn it on now but like I said keyboard and touch screen are f***ed. I'm using my new g1 so I don't feel like quoting everybody so ill just go like this,
To the guy that gave me the guide on installing the sdk, here's the issues I'm having. I'm unable to even get sdk setup to work. I downloaded the drivers, I put them in the android sdk folder which is on c:/. When I connect my phone even though I uninstalled the driver fot android with deviewer every time I would reconnect it, it automatically reinstalled the android driver as a mass storage device. So I went into the control panel and installed the adb driver manually. Now when I connect it, it pops up as android adb. However sdk setup still doesn't work. When I click setup it flashes a command prompt for a split second and does nothing else. Ill also say my pc is junk and and I can't open cmd or task manager for some reason(virus maybe?) So what am I missing here?
To whoever asked what version and stuff the phone is, I believe its the latest update and I haven't done any soft mods to it, not rooting or anything.
To whoever said something about doing a BART back up and transferring files to my new g1, how do I do that? that's what I really need to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
maybe its just the way you wrote it... but you know the rice should be dry.......
Stop powering it on. you will need to wait several days
Maybe I should try the alcohol thing? I did drop it in a toilet full of dank piss bowl cleaner. I just don't want to take a risk of frying it if something messes up before I get the files off
History:
Bought Captivate 08/10. I'm on my 3rd phone, all replaced due to "sleeping death", capacitive buttons not working, some other common bug with this phone.
In May, I (and the captivate) was pushed in a swimming pool so my phone is no longer under warranty and I'm stuck with this thing. I actually tried to get it replaced at the AT&T service center and the guy was going to let me, but I had to get it back to stock firmware - I was running Paragon. The capacitive buttons are sometimes working, sometimes not so getting to stock fw was a challenge. I did that after several hours and returned to the store, but they voided the warranty due to water damage.
Present:
1. Capacitive buttons sometimes work. sometimes don't (days at a time)
2. USB will not work (I hate you for this Samsung). 2 cables, 3 pcs, drivers galore. I can charge off USB, but the PC doesn't see the phone and the phone doesn't see the PC.
3. Can no longer dl any apps from the Market - get unsuccessful message. Tried clearing cache of download manager, etc. as recommended on xda.
What can I do at this point? I'd like to install a decent ROM and recover as much as possible, but this thing blocks every attempt I make with some problem. I would replace it, but $600 is pretty steep for a phone right now.
Thanks
I'll offer what I can (I'm ready to give up on this $&@# device, too)
The buttons are flimsy as ****. They are just rubber inserts whos 'spring mechanism' is the rubber itself (to restore itself to its original shape). This isn't 'mechanical' its like expecting a seat cushion to always retain its shape (and not create ass divots). I suppose these extremely small rubber inserts could be replaced, but there is no mechanism to 'fix'.
**I'm assuming you meant the vol / power buttons (not the touchscreen buttons)
The USB thing.....I would get this sometimes. I found the BEST way around this (and this may not be a solution for you), but the market app "USB Cable" essentially sets your device up as an ftp location on whatever wireless you're on. Freaking golden if you're on your home wireless network, but if not, I doubt its much of an option (it is considerably faster than a 2.0 / 3.0 USB connection). **since you can't access Market (http://www.androidzoom.com/android_applications/productivity/wifi-ftp-box-free_vkuk.html)
One year in, then it's time for an early upgrade.
What do you expect after it being under water?
You can't blame samsung for usb or button problems, blame the water.
That said sell it and put the money towards another phone.
By any chance did you buy the insurance? If you did, just call it in lost and pay the $125 deductible and have a working phone. If not there's really not that much you can do. What did you do to dry the device out? believe it or not, there may still be moisture in there. You might try putting the phone in a container of some sort and covering it with rice (uncooked of course) and letting it sit for a day or two, and then try it out.
I would blame the jerk that pushed you in the pool, not the phone....That person owes you a phone.
If you've been running stock 2.1 or 2.2 the poor performance will happen.
I felt the same way about the phone until I discovered the cognition rom, it's well known for being very stable but with your usb issues...good luck.
thanks for the advice everyone. i will check on the insurance route.
but yes, i can blame samsung for the usb issues. why is it so difficult to access your phone via the built in usb port? special drivers, distinct cables, etc. are absurd.
spanishfry said:
thanks for the advice everyone. i will check on the insurance route.
but yes, i can blame samsung for the usb issues. why is it so difficult to access your phone via the built in usb port? special drivers, distinct cables, etc. are absurd.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How many phones don't use some sort of drivers to get this kind of access to it? I know the majority of the phones I have used in the past have needed some sort of drivers. Also, what distinct cables? It's a micro USB, you can't get any more common for a modern device than that. Samsung uses excellent hardware in everything they build and they regained my respect from the Froyo flop when they leaked Gingerbread so quickly to realistically a fairly old device. On top of that, they also leave their hardware to be hacked by our skilled developers (unlike Motorola).
Reamer09 said:
How many phones don't use some sort of drivers to get this kind of access to it? I know the majority of the phones I have used in the past have needed some sort of drivers. Also, what distinct cables? It's a micro USB, you can't get any more common for a modern device than that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He didn't mention this issue specifically, but even when using the correct cable/drivers you can still get the dreaded adb offline error. Sometimes changing usb port fixes the issue. This screams bug, either in the samsung drivers or maybe adb itself?
BenKranged said:
He didn't mention this issue specifically, but even when using the correct cable/drivers you can still get the dreaded adb offline error. Sometimes changing usb port fixes the issue. This screams bug, either in the samsung drivers or maybe adb itself?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What "special drivers" would he be talking about then? I'm just one of the lucky ones that got a phone that works, 3 button works, adb always works, never had USB problems, never bricked (yet).
sent from my KF1 Galaxy S Captivate
spanishfry said:
but yes, i can blame samsung for the usb issues. why is it so difficult to access your phone via the built in usb port?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Possibly because you submerged the phone in water?
spanishfry said:
thanks for the advice everyone. i will check on the insurance route.
but yes, i can blame samsung for the usb issues. why is it so difficult to access your phone via the built in usb port? special drivers, distinct cables, etc. are absurd.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Welcome to the world of smartphones.
thread closed
Hi team. I've searched the forums for answers and even though I've read a thousand excellent posts, none (of course) fit my situation specifically. I'll try to be as brief as I can.
My AT&T-branded, Chinese imported Captivate was only three weeks old when I first soft-bricked it trying to do an update using Kies (thanks Samsung!) and then because it would only go into download mode, I tried using Odin to reflash back to where I was. The flash didn't take and I was left with nothing; no charging icon, no computer recognition (Windows 7 Ultimate 32-bit using the generic Samsung Android phone drivers downloaded from somewhere on XDA) and no boot/download mode; in other words, hard-bricked and nothing working.
I bought myself a riffbox and spent a long time reading various forum posts about using it; I own a computer repair company and have flashed a million motherboard, modem, router and other firmwares over the past 15 years and have even done a Samsung S2 and a Galaxy Pad in the last week so am reasonably comfortable with the process, even though I'm not hugely experiences yet with the riffbox.
Anyway, I imported and soldered the recommended panasonic socket to the JTAG point and made myself some PCB adapters to fit and break out the Riffbox cables. That's all done and dusted and today I used the Riffbox on my Captivate for the first time, apparently detecting the 'dead body' and flashing the ROM successfully (the box and software would soon tell me if something wasn't right). While I hoped it would, I didn't expect my phone to boot straight away, but did expect it to go into download mode, as suggested in the JTAG literature with the Riffbox. This is where it all gets bent out of shape.
I always get into download mode with my Captivate by dropping the battery and then replugging with the Vol + and - buttons held. I have tried all methodfs I can find on XDA but all either don't work or do the same thing, that is, my phone enters download mode for about ten seconds, then drops out again. During that time, all USB devices 'hang' while the computer tries to fathom what the hell is connected there and Andy just holds his shovel and laughs at me before disappearing once again into the inky blackness of a dead screen. The device manager shows an unknown device detected before letting it go again and mouse and keyboard control resumes. Weird. I thought it might be a flat battery but I've charged that so it has plenty of juice. When plugged via USB, there is 4 volts at the battery terminals (measured with the battery out) so it would charge when plugged in (wall wart or USB cable) even though no icon shows.
Like any good tech I went back and reflashed using both the recommended ROM and 'last resort' option in the Riffbox (Clone Gremlin Zone flash) and the phone still does the same thing; enters download mode then off. I made up a USB dongle/jig using exactly 301 kilohms of resistance (measured digitally) across pins 4 and 5 and followed the various videos/explanations to get into download mode that way but this does not work on my phone, leading me to think something else is broken.
Bottom line is that it seems the phone doesn't have to be connected via USB to enter download mode but if Windows cannot load the phone, then I cannot use Odin or Heimdall to reflash it. I don't think it is drivers because it worked OK before the brick (well, not perfectly but it did connect and I had USB drive support etc.) and besides, I have tried reinstalling drivers to no avail. Can anyone suggest anything I can try (shipping it to some guy in the USA is not the answer I'm going for here so please don't waste your time or mine). As far as I can see, I have done everything the people here suggest and the JTAG/Riffbox instructions to the letter but it just does not want to happen. I'd rather not lose the phone and since I eventually want to offer this sort of service in my business, I want to get it to work on my own phone for my own pride and knowledge.
Cheers from Christchurch New Zealand.
Follow up.
davenz said:
Hi team. I've searched the forums for answers and even though I've read a thousand excellent posts, none (of course) fit my situation specifically. I'll try to be as brief as I can.
My AT&T-branded, Chinese imported Captivate was only three weeks old when I first soft-bricked it trying to do an update using Kies (thanks Samsung!) and then because it would only go into download mode, I tried using Odin to reflash back to where I was. The flash didn't take and I was left with nothing; no charging icon, no computer recognition (Windows 7 Ultimate 32-bit using the generic Samsung Android phone drivers downloaded from somewhere on XDA) and no boot/download mode; in other words, hard-bricked and nothing working.
I bought myself a riffbox and spent a long time reading various forum posts about using it; I own a computer repair company and have flashed a million motherboard, modem, router and other firmwares over the past 15 years and have even done a Samsung S2 and a Galaxy Pad in the last week so am reasonably comfortable with the process, even though I'm not hugely experiences yet with the riffbox.
Anyway, I imported and soldered the recommended panasonic socket to the JTAG point and made myself some PCB adapters to fit and break out the Riffbox cables. That's all done and dusted and today I used the Riffbox on my Captivate for the first time, apparently detecting the 'dead body' and flashing the ROM successfully (the box and software would soon tell me if something wasn't right). While I hoped it would, I didn't expect my phone to boot straight away, but did expect it to go into download mode, as suggested in the JTAG literature with the Riffbox. This is where it all gets bent out of shape.
I always get into download mode with my Captivate by dropping the battery and then replugging with the Vol + and - buttons held. I have tried all methodfs I can find on XDA but all either don't work or do the same thing, that is, my phone enters download mode for about ten seconds, then drops out again. During that time, all USB devices 'hang' while the computer tries to fathom what the hell is connected there and Andy just holds his shovel and laughs at me before disappearing once again into the inky blackness of a dead screen. The device manager shows an unknown device detected before letting it go again and mouse and keyboard control resumes. Weird. I thought it might be a flat battery but I've charged that so it has plenty of juice. When plugged via USB, there is 4 volts at the battery terminals (measured with the battery out) so it would charge when plugged in (wall wart or USB cable) even though no icon shows.
Like any good tech I went back and reflashed using both the recommended ROM and 'last resort' option in the Riffbox (Clone Gremlin Zone flash) and the phone still does the same thing; enters download mode then off. I made up a USB dongle/jig using exactly 301 kilohms of resistance (measured digitally) across pins 4 and 5 and followed the various videos/explanations to get into download mode that way but this does not work on my phone, leading me to think something else is broken.
Bottom line is that it seems the phone doesn't have to be connected via USB to enter download mode but if Windows cannot load the phone, then I cannot use Odin or Heimdall to reflash it. I don't think it is drivers because it worked OK before the brick (well, not perfectly but it did connect and I had USB drive support etc.) and besides, I have tried reinstalling drivers to no avail. Can anyone suggest anything I can try (shipping it to some guy in the USA is not the answer I'm going for here so please don't waste your time or mine). As far as I can see, I have done everything the people here suggest and the JTAG/Riffbox instructions to the letter but it just does not want to happen. I'd rather not lose the phone and since I eventually want to offer this sort of service in my business, I want to get it to work on my own phone for my own pride and knowledge.
Cheers from Christchurch New Zealand.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since none of the gurus here bothered to respond I'll do it myself in case someone else finds the same issue.
Turns out the battery was faulty; I replaced it and succeeded in getting the phone into download mode with both the jig and the usual methods. Then the computer would not recognize the phone, the dreaded 'unknown device' in the device manager. I was using the factory cable that came with the phone but tried a third-party one I had for a Chicom HTC copy I had lying around and this allowed the phone to be recognized by Windows (go figure). I used Odin to unbrick/reflash and it is all go now, interestingly both cables now work for the phone within Windows so it is always worth trying something even though it makes no real sense to do so.
Darn, that is exactly what I was going to say to do!
Next time, try a rotating disc nebulizer, which you can redesign with respect to the principle parameters that determine its analytical performance. The flow pattern of the aerosols you will attain can be optimized by altering the shape of the inner chamber for optimum aerodynamic characteristics. Furthermore, the optimum angle of impact needs to be established using particle size distribution and mass transport efficiency as criteria. Any analytical characteristics you determine will be through monitoring the emission signal from an aqueous standard. The accuracy has to be assessed by using reference steel and iridium samples.
It is easy to construct, and the fundamental component is a rotating disc onto which a liquid sample is introduced. It should require no additional spray chamber and be easy to operate effectively. Once in operation it should produce aerosols with mean droplet diameters of approximately 0.50 µm.
You may then utilize inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectrometry to determine the defect.:good:
^
ROFLMAO !!!!
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium
Rotating Disc Nebulizer
-SGA- said:
Darn, that is exactly what I was going to say to do!
Next time, try a rotating disc nebulizer, which you can redesign with respect to the principle parameters that determine its analytical performance. The flow pattern of the aerosols you will attain can be optimized by altering the shape of the inner chamber for optimum aerodynamic characteristics. Furthermore, the optimum angle of impact needs to be established using particle size distribution and mass transport efficiency as criteria. Any analytical characteristics you determine will be through monitoring the emission signal from an aqueous standard. The accuracy has to be assessed by using reference steel and iridium samples.
It is easy to construct, and the fundamental component is a rotating disc onto which a liquid sample is introduced. It should require no additional spray chamber and be easy to operate effectively. Once in operation it should produce aerosols with mean droplet diameters of approximately 0.50 µm.
You may then utilize inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectrometry to determine the defect.:good:
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Click to collapse
This is excellent advice and ordinarily I would agree 110%, however I have found that the later model Rotating Disc Nebulisers have an inherent fault in the flange valve regulator, which in turn affects the lead mercury ratio and results in even harder bricking of susceptible devices. If, however, you feather an older nebulizer with the updated underhead/overhang mod then even the nastiest conflibulator inversion is easily bypassed. Just for information's sake...
davenz said:
This is excellent advice and ordinarily I would agree 110%, however I have found that the later model Rotating Disc Nebulisers have an inherent fault in the flange valve regulator, which in turn affects the lead mercury ratio and results in even harder bricking of susceptible devices. If, however, you feather an older nebulizer with the updated underhead/overhang mod then even the nastiest conflibulator inversion is easily bypassed. Just for information's sake...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OMG, that was some seriously original stuff! Anyone try Googling "conflibulator inversion"? This is the only result, lol!
Glad to hear your flashing worked out, I think the process you followed is a lot more in depth than many of us would ever undertake...
-SGA- said:
OMG, that was some seriously original stuff! Anyone try Googling "conflibulator inversion"? This is the only result, lol!
Glad to hear your flashing worked out, I think the process you followed is a lot more in depth than many of us would ever undertake...
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Click to collapse
Well, I wasn't about to throw away 350 bucks (our money, which is worth about three chickens and a bag of salt in anyone else's currency) and since I pride myself in being able to fix anything, the challenge was set in motion when I discovered (via this excellent resource) that the Captivate was a) hard to brick (I found it pretty easy to be honest) and b) the hardest to unbrick.One poster claimed that if you can unbrick a Captivate you can unbrick anything, so I had to give it a go. After all, what did I have to lose?
As I mentioned, I intend to diversify my computer repair business into mobile gadget repairs anyway and I can think of nothing more noble than unbricking phones. I learned an incredible amount on the way through the whole process and while just having the tools doesn't make me an expert, I'm happy to work my way toward that goal and if I help others on the way, well, it's a win/win.
Thanks for the entertaining posts and cheers from Christchurch, New Zealand.
I sure hope you tried locating the flux capacitor before going through all that work. Could have saved you from having to go through the whole "Seismic Declan Brown Eyed Goose" process.
Glad to hear you are de-worse-ifying your biz.
You should add the left-handed skyhook-bipolar-transmogifier-probe to your tools. I am told its use dramatically improves GPS performance, and provides immediate position locks to some position, however distant from where you thought you were.
-written whilst sipping high temperature psychoactive botanical filtrate in my ceramic gravitational containment vessel with plalangeal bracket (aka coffee in my mug).
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using xda app-developers app
Thanks
wwcjr91 said:
I sure hope you tried locating the flux capacitor before going through all that work. Could have saved you from having to go through the whole "Seismic Declan Brown Eyed Goose" process.
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Click to collapse
Now you tell me! The entire Seismic Declan Brown Eyed Goose scenario had me stumped there for a while but after referencing 'Nocturnal Urinary Releases and other Stories', the famous Declan-decoding text by I. P. Nightly, a liberal application of lubricating gel in all the right places had the whole thing well in hand...
And as for the left-handed skyhook-bipolar-transmogifier-probe, that's again where I went wrong with a newbie mistake. Sadly I ordered the right-handed skyhook-bipolar-transmogifier-probe and of course it didn't moglify the selindicular quadronizer at all. In fact, it broke it off at the chalisticator and left me up the paddle without a creek, so to speak. Nevertheless, a little old-fashioned luck and a tap with the old thorificating polookanizer soon had things back on track.
Now all I need is another Speckled Jim for the halitosinifer (do you REALLY want to know?) and all will be well in my world (which is not like other worlds if posts on XDA are anything to go by...)
Thanks all for your excellent input, it has been a journey through the looking glass!
well i really liked the "brilliantly" thought of posts about the legendary tools mentioned... hehe
i was really looking forward to more comments to lighten up the mood
pls keep posting
3 cheers
btw i am also stuck at dead hard brick on my cappy
regards
alot of youtube videos provide help on unbricking
...'last resort' option in the Riffbox (Clone Gremlin Zone flash)
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Please.
Someone know what Gremlin Zone exactly is?
Location in OneNAND ? Or somewhere else?
Maybe adresses or dump of Gremlin Zone would be nice.
Thanx in advance.
Best Regards
adfree said:
Please.
Someone know what Gremlin Zone exactly is?
Location in OneNAND ? Or somewhere else?
Maybe adresses or dump of Gremlin Zone would be nice.
Thanx in advance.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the person to ask would be AdamOutler. You're asking for some deep knowledge in general
Hello everyone, I would like to take the time to say that this is my first post, as normally any queery I have a simple search of the site or google would produce a result. Please take the time to read the WHOLE of the following post as there are already similar topics but not exactly the same symptoms showing all at once.
I have a Experia E15i, the phone came with generic (world) software and has only ever been on a stock rom.
The complaint is that when you turn the phone on the post (Sony ericson) comes up as if it were booting, then the screen goes out (including back light) but you can press the menu button and press apps in the app drawer and feel the feedback via the vibrator.
Now I have read a couple of threads on various sites saying that there is a hardware issue and reference to a new screen has been made.
HOWEVER this is where this phone differs when you go in to 'my computer' it shows up as a CD drive and a flash drive (the sd card) but you can't access the 'cd drive' as it asks you to "insert disk".
Now I have done the following thing to try and rectify.
First of all I used the SE "pc companion" and used the 'repair' function and still the exact same problem exists.
Secondly I installed the new 015 baseband (and matched it with the stock 2.1.1.A.0.6 and then did a reboot, the phone still shows up as this fault.
Thirdly I downgraded the baseband to the older one for 2.0.2.A.0.24, and still it stays the same.
I have also done a B.I.T.E test and it seems that the display is U/S I have been able to mirror another phone and the display does not work, so it seems that the screen can't cope with displaying the OS, but when you charge the phone the screen works perfectly.
I have got a hold of all the diagrams required to tracing the system and will update tomorrow when I wake up. But it still doesn't explain the CD drive phenomenon.
I have been in the phone to see if I can see any obvious signs of damage the only signs I can see is on the top side (with the heat shielding) the top left and chip (can't remember it's name) as a slight marking on the outer coating, now normally this would not cause any issues with the chip, unless it has cracked underneath, but then if it had the whole phone wouldn't work, as I believe it to be the rom chip. I have been in there with the appropriate alcohol based cleaner and cleaned it up as best I can with out de-soldering the heat shield.
The only reason I am holding back on buying a new screen is that I can't see how it can be a physical screen error as the controller clearly works (other wise SE wouldn't show) and I can't see how that would effect the fact it is now showing it's a cd drive.
Now if anyone can shed any light on this issue, or combined issues I would be very grateful.
First morning tests
In reply to my own post for clarity, there is stby power present on the correct pin and there is stby return on the correct pin, I am also seeing a date out put in the pins aswell, so it seem to be that the screen in U/S which is good news, as they are easy enough to come by, however it would be nice to find the wiring diagram for the screen (I know sony don't make them and they are a peripheral item) and they are a disposable item so why would they bother, but for the sake of one chip being to blame it would be a lot cheaper for me to replace the chip than the whole screen/display.
As for the phone been seen as a Cd drive, I have still yet to work this out, however the screen is wired in from the second NAND CHIP N1500 [MSM7227/-MDDI] VIA R7000 and R7001 which is where the bootloader is held (this phone is 11w12 and appears to be an unlocked bootloader; could this be clashing with something inside the N1500 and N2400 NAND Chips?) or is it just changing how the pc sees the chipset and assigns a cd drive label to it?
Well I shall order a new screen and keep you all posted how it goes. In the mean time if any one can help then please let me know