Device reset after SIM swap - any way to prevent it? - Tilt, TyTN II, MDA Vario III General

So my Tilt has now taken on the role of a secondary device. It's still very useful for tethering and Slingboxing, but that's about all I am using it for. Since I am using the one SIM to switch between the 2 devices, I have to wait for the Tilt to reset and slowly boot each time I put the SIM into it. Anyone know a way to force the Tilt not to reset and properly recognize the SIM? Just to be clear, I am not using more than one SIM on the Tilt, just one SIM that I am switching between 2 devices. I'm just trying to speed up the process when I want to use the Tilt.
Thanks for any feedback.

No, the small hardware switch under the sim cover shuts down the tilt/kaiser,
You may get around it by cutting in the simcover, the small "lock" has a small space were it fits right into the switch

But couldnt it damage the SIM if taken out while in use? Kinda like removing an sd card during read/write? Is it possible on any phone to remove the SIM without powering the unit down?

JKingDev said:
But couldnt it damage the SIM if taken out while in use? Kinda like removing an sd card during read/write? Is it possible on any phone to remove the SIM without powering the unit down?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure could and that's why you shouldn't do it.
I don't believe SIM Cards are a "hot-swappable" technology.

JKingDev said:
But couldnt it damage the SIM if taken out while in use? Kinda like removing an sd card during read/write? Is it possible on any phone to remove the SIM without powering the unit down?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can do it at will with the iPhone 3G (as well as the orig iPhone). As far as I can tell, no damage to speak of. Of course, I don't keep any contacts on the SIM, so perhaps that is a factor. I may tinker with the door lock on the Tilt to see if I can get it to think it's locked at all times even if the door is open. Since it is designed to power off when the door opens though, it may crash or otherwise lock up with the insertion and removal of the SIM while still powered up.

I flashed a rom a while back which when i opened the sim cover it gave a 10 second countdown and then switched off....i dont remember which rom it was but surely this means there isnt a hard off switch connected to the sim cover...

rgbyhkr said:
You can do it at will with the iPhone 3G (as well as the orig iPhone). As far as I can tell, no damage to speak of. Of course, I don't keep any contacts on the SIM, so perhaps that is a factor. I may tinker with the door lock on the Tilt to see if I can get it to think it's locked at all times even if the door is open. Since it is designed to power off when the door opens though, it may crash or otherwise lock up with the insertion and removal of the SIM while still powered up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Flipping the little switch to the alternate position will allow the phone to run while the door is open, but you will not be able to close your Tilt since the SIM door will stick out just enough to prevent it.

Humz said:
I flashed a rom a while back which when i opened the sim cover it gave a 10 second countdown and then switched off....i dont remember which rom it was but surely this means there isnt a hard off switch connected to the sim cover...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the message I get on mine - it's the default AT&T ROM. So, I agree that it is a hardware/software combination whereby the door latch triggers the software to prompt the message and then shutdown. Also, I noticed something else. Without the SIM in, I set the device to Flight Mode and unlocked the door. As you would expect, the device shuts off. However, when I restarted the device with the door still open, I didn't get the 10 seconds message and it didn't shut off (it was still in Flight Mode after the restart, so this must be the trigger). While still in Flight Mode, I could lock and unlock the door at will and the device remained on. If I locked the door without the SIM in and then turned off Flight Mode and then unlocked the door, the Tilt turned off.
It would appear then that there is something in the firmware that is monitoring the SIM door state, but there are obviously scenarios where that state doesn't matter. My guess is that the state is monitored during startup as well as during normal use. Flight Mode seems to override the effects of unlocking the door while it is on, but only if you booted it with teh door open and in Flight Mode. Once you are out of Flight Mode, the door status is then again monitored and I haven't found a way to turn that monitoring back off. But perhaps there is a hack to do just that...

A little more testing and things just got a bit more interesting. Here's what I did:
- I tried doing the Flight Mode then open the door to shut off and leave it open when I turned it back on. I then inserted the SIM, closed the door, and turned off Flight Mode. I got the SIM not present message on the dialpad screen. I tried toggling Flight Mode on and off again trying to force it to "see" the SIM. No dice even after several tries.
- I then tried the same thing with a modification. Flight Mode on and opened teh door to shut down the device. Left the door open, and this time inserted the SIM but didn't close the door, and powered up. So, with the device still in Flight Mode powered up and with the door open, I pulled the SIM. I closed the door and slid down the keyboard. After about 15 seconds with no pop-ups on the device, I opened the door, replaced the SIM and turned Flight Mode off. Voila! The device found the signal and I was able to make a test call. Of course, the device turned back off once I opened the door, even though I tried going into Flight Mode first.
This tells me a few things:
- The state of the door is monitored
- The state of the SIM being present is monitored
- Flight Mode has some override
- The status of a combination of the above during startup results in different outcomes for the same testing steps after the device is back on.
I think there may be a way to hack the device to do what I want. Ideally, it would ignore (or be fooled into perceiving a desired status) both the door state and the SIM presence. I figure with the right hack and the use of toggling Flight Mode, you could take the SIM in/out without having to power it down at all.
Anyone with more experience than I at tinkering want to point me in teh right direction?

rgbyhkr said:
You can do it at will with the iPhone 3G (as well as the orig iPhone). As far as I can tell, no damage to speak of. Of course, I don't keep any contacts on the SIM, so perhaps that is a factor. I may tinker with the door lock on the Tilt to see if I can get it to think it's locked at all times even if the door is open. Since it is designed to power off when the door opens though, it may crash or otherwise lock up with the insertion and removal of the SIM while still powered up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Even a Palm Treo 650 could hot swap SIM cards!

I'm going to ask about this in the Kaiser ROM subforum.

JimmyMcGee said:
Sure could and that's why you shouldn't do it.
I don't believe SIM Cards are a "hot-swappable" technology.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used to pull mine out of my treo all the time.

ChumleyEX said:
I used to pull mine out of my treo all the time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used to unplug Floppy Drives hot all the time. Still doesn't make it good, or a "hot swappable" technology.
Now there is a chance I'm wrong. It happens once a year.

oh you're wrong..
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Bring it oooooonnn!

I'm sure this will take care of your birdie
It's a BB gun.

BOOM! I Nuked this thread. Now it is no more!

And I shall Resurrect it.
Later all, I'm headed to Vegas.. Keep flaming the noobs.

Jesus Christ!

Related

TyTN II: Stuck Keyboard Fails to Slide Open

The first sign of a problem occurred when I hit the power button and the phone started to boot up. I was surprised as it had not been shut down. I also noticed the keyboard appeared stuck and would not slide open to any degree whatsoever. I inspected the phone for any obvious sign of damage and there was none. The phone only booted as far as the unlock screen and then promptly shut off. I plugged the phone in its charger and tried again.
This same thing happened several more times and I got a sinking feeling that my phone was seriously fu*%ked up. I let it charge for a bit while I looked at HTC's and XDA Websites for any threads of this being a previously reported issue. My searches failed to turn up anything relating to a stuck keyboard. So I placed a support call to HTC North America (866- 449-7358) and promptly connected with a support rep named Larry. He was working out of a call center in Toronto.
The rep was not aware of any reported issues that would prevent the keyboard from sliding open. As far has the boot up process was concerned, his suggestion was to perform a hard reset and see if that would help. Before trying that I wanted to better understand why the keyboard was stuck but he could offer no help. When he learned that I had purchased the phone from Mobile Planet he said that it "was probably imported from the UK and that I would have to get any additional support from there." I considered this as lamely passing the buck and ended that call.
I placed renewed focus on the locked slider mechanism to see if there was any visible reason why it was stuck closed. After finding nothing, I then began to pry carefully around the edges and see just how much physical separation I could achieve at any one spot without causing undue stress. During this process the keyboard suddenly shifted a bit and I was able to carefully slide it out. I immediately noticed the SIM card latch was unlatched and hanging open. I closed and locked it, then powered the phone up once more. To my surprise and immense relief, it booted right up and remained on till I could unlock it. Everything worked fine. Needless to say I'm now one happy camper.
Conclusion:
If the keyboard on your Kaiser fails to open for any reason and the device keeps shutting down, an open SIM latch may be the problem. Try to gently and I do mean gently, pry at different points to gain partial clearance for the keyboard mechanism to shift. It might be all you need to resolve the issue. I hope this helps someone in the future.
Thank you. Mine is stuck right now. Its driving me crazy.
Update. I just did what you stated and it worked.
Solution for Stuck Slide Out on HTC Tilt
1. GENTLY use stylus or pointy slim object to lift the top part. Lift from the area where the sim card is located
2. Lift GENTLY until you have seperation, then slide out keyboard.
way cool!
what i'm curious about is how the sim door can come loose all on its own especially when the keyboard is closed...it has such a bad-ass lock on it...i swear, i really have to fiddle with the lock to get it to open when i need to remove the SIM.
...or perhaps it happens when one forgets to lock the SIM door followed by unintentionally closing the keyboard...?

Tiny microswitch under the SIM Cover???

If you remove your sim card and look closely, there is a tiny switch that would normally be covered by your SIM. What does it do??? My manual says nothing about it.
I'm not sure but i think anyone here has written that if the switch is in one position you can replace sim card when device is on and on the other position device powers off if you try to replace sim.
The second is the normal position.
But i'm not sure
Can anyone Verify?
I flipped the switch just to see... and BAM, now my Tilt has 3D graphics acceleration! (j/k)
In all seriousness, I did flip the switch, but the SIM door will not close with it in that position. If you look at the SIM flap, there is a little metal piece (looks like an upside down U), and the switch fits snugly between the metal lines when in the original position, allowing the door to close and lock.
its a switch to replace sim
when you open the sim cover that little microswitch turns off the phone thus stopping it from getting problems with sim issues.then when you pop in a new sim and lock the cover the phone turns on and boots up.
just like o2xdaexec said its used to shut off the phone when your removing the sim card
... and ...
... and that little switch is why almost all of the "how to flash" guides contain an error.
Many of the guides, including "HardSPL v3.07, v3.28, v3.29 and v3.56 by JockyW", contains a step calling you to "remove SIM card" in the middle of a series of events. These guides never point out that it will immediately cause your phone to turn off, which can result in many a skipped-heart-beat by someone in their first flash (which is why they are following the steps to begin with).
... Sigh.
so you dont actually need to open then

remove sim without tourning off

is there any way to remove sim card w/o turning off my kaiser device?
No.
Filler...
The SIM door actually activates a switch which turns the device off whatever you do. There's no way to open it without the power being disconnected.
there is a way to remove it. you can remove the little metal piece that activates the switch... but rly. why would you do that? i'm pretty sure there's a reason for that switch

How to avoid unlocked SIM door msg ?

I started having those msg's all of a sudden, although the door is locked.
The phone will not start coz while booting the msg appears that the sim door is unlocked and shuts down after 10 seconds.
Doesn't matter if the sim card is in or not.
I unplugged sim tray holder slot and the phone works perfectly fine.
Should I try to replace SIM TRAY HOLDER SLOT with the new one or it will not solve the problem ?
Is there anyway to fix it ?
any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Dmitry
You can do it.
3 times I had the same problem, and 2 times with Air compress clean over the interruptor, and give me the solution for this msg. and the other day the weither with many humidity and my kaiser not response and one more time the msg. and then I put the cel under light of my lamp halogen desk, and with the hot I think that the humidity disapper and the kaiser return to the life try and write your solution amigo.
Greettings from Puebla,Mexico and sorry for my english.
thanks,
However It is not moist or anything like that.
I am trying to figure out which part of the SIM slot is responsible for detection of the open/closed door, so that I can try to fix it...
Hedonist84 said:
I am trying to figure out which part of the SIM slot is responsible for detection of the open/closed door, so that I can try to fix it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Look where the lock toggle engages underneath and there's a microswitch. It is possible for the toggle to not engage correctly with the microswitch underneath (the pin neads to fit into the gap in the microswitch rather than to one side of the gap). Have a careful look and move the microswitch independantly of the lock toggle and you'll see what I mean.
Flying Kiwi said:
Look where the lock toggle engages underneath and there's a microswitch. It is possible for the toggle to not engage correctly with the microswitch underneath (the pin neads to fit into the gap in the microswitch rather than to one side of the gap). Have a careful look and move the microswitch independantly of the lock toggle and you'll see what I mean.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for your help.
You are correct about the micro switch. It is so tiny that I couldn't see it.
What is more it looks like the part of the switch that is supposed to be outside so that the lock toggle moves it, is broken.
I had to take a needle to move the switch that is inside.
Unfortunately I purchased a new sim slot on ebay yesterday. Will see if I can cancel this transaction
(I did cancel the transaction, the Chinese seller was very polite and asked me only to reimburse him for E-bay transaction 1.2$)
Once again thanx for your help !
Regards
Thanks for sharing this.
And I want to know Electric Actuator(电动执行机构). Can you tell me? Thanks million. So please help me . I want to know more it. And I see a website: tjbernard.cn. But I didn't know. I need this electric actuator information.

Not powering on after teardown and rebuild

Hey, looking for some help.
Basically I have an M7 (been happily married to it for nearly 4 years) and cracked the screen on it a few days back. Looked at some teardown videos and decided that id have a go at replacing it myself (new screen of ebay for £16, why not? Also decided that since id have the phone open I would swap out the camera module to try and rid myself of the purple). So long story short, i stripped it down, done everything I needed to do and assembled it all back together again and now when i press the power button nothing happens.
Tried holding it in for 30+ seconds, tried it with vol +/- buttons
When plugged into charge nothing appears on screen and no LEDs at top
When connected to laptop it registers usb connection but doesn't appear in device manager
Wondering if anyone could suggest some 'common' problems during rebuild that may be preventing it from powering on? I have been around all the ribbon connections, they all look good. The wires from the daughter board are all reconnected in their right places, the battery connection is plugged in, the power button too.
Any suggestions welcome
Update- okay so I've upgraded phone and this is still just lying around and I'm keen to get it going just for my own satisfaction more than anything else. The position I'm in now is that when connected to charge the screen displays the charging symbol and %. So my conclusion is that the screen in fact works and the battery is connected. So my next thought logically would turn to the switch? If the switch is busted this won't allow the phone to power up but is there a way to bypass the switch and see or do I just need to replace that part and see what happens?
Am I also corrected in assuming that if the battery is charging and showing the symbol and percentage that the motherboard is working or would it show that even if the motherboard was compromised?
Again any advice will be appreciated
hendo141 said:
Update- okay so I've upgraded phone and this is still just lying around and I'm keen to get it going just for my own satisfaction more than anything else. The position I'm in now is that when connected to charge the screen displays the charging symbol and %. So my conclusion is that the screen in fact works and the battery is connected. So my next thought logically would turn to the switch? If the switch is busted this won't allow the phone to power up but is there a way to bypass the switch and see or do I just need to replace that part and see what happens?
Am I also corrected in assuming that if the battery is charging and showing the symbol and percentage that the motherboard is working or would it show that even if the motherboard was compromised?
Again any advice will be appreciated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm also thinking of a bad power switch, maybe the flex cable? Battery charging is handled by the recovery kernel so I don't see any reason to suspect a bad MB atm. It's always hard to help ppl in your situation, without being able to see the device. It can be anything that was damaged during the repair Afaik, there is nothing you can do to power on the phone without a working button.
alray said:
I'm also thinking of a bad power switch, maybe the flex cable? Battery charging is handled by the recovery kernel so I don't see any reason to suspect a bad MB atm. It's always hard to help ppl in your situation, without being able to see the device. It can be anything that was damaged during the repair Afaik, there is nothing you can do to power on the phone without a working button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your input. Glad im thinking along the right lines at least. A new switch is only a couple of pounds so i'll take a chance on changing that if you reckon that the rest of the components should be in working order. I'll update on the outcome
So a new power switch was not the answer
Just trying to think where to look next. Sorry im still pretty much a noob when it comes to the actual inners of a phone but ive taken a photo and circled areas where I suspect there may have been damage.
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The small silver wire to the right of the camera unit, not sure what it does but it looks to be a link between the MB and DB. Pretty sure i kinked that while rebuilding.
The big flex to the left of the camera, this looks to be the main link between the MB/DB. Not sure if this is damaged but ive highlighted it as the outer edge is a little rough (not sure if this would be enough damage to stop it from working?)
Finally there is the bottom left flex. The one in the middle above the main battery connection. I done a little damage in the teardown and broke a bit of the clip (again not sure if this damage would stop it from working since the contacts seem to be fine). Not 100% on what this flex does but it looks like it serves the bottom end of the phone (usb terminal, mic, speaker etc...)
Once again all input welcome and appreciated,
hendo141 said:
So a new power switch was not the answer
Just trying to think where to look next. Sorry im still pretty much a noob when it comes to the actual inners of a phone but ive taken a photo and circled areas where I suspect there may have been damage.
The small silver wire to the right of the camera unit, not sure what it does but it looks to be a link between the MB and DB. Pretty sure i kinked that while rebuilding.
The big flex to the left of the camera, this looks to be the main link between the MB/DB. Not sure if this is damaged but ive highlighted it as the outer edge is a little rough (not sure if this would be enough damage to stop it from working?)
Finally there is the bottom left flex. The one in the middle above the main battery connection. I done a little damage in the teardown and broke a bit of the clip (again not sure if this damage would stop it from working since the contacts seem to be fine). Not 100% on what this flex does but it looks like it serves the bottom end of the phone (usb terminal, mic, speaker etc...)
Once again all input welcome and appreciated,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could be anything like a damaged cable, connector or even ESD damage. Btw I don't really understand why you didn't mentioned your damaged cable/connector before, I would replace parts that I know they got damaged during the repair before trying other parts...
Don't waste to much money on this, you can find the M7 for less than 100$ on ebay

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