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ok here it goes....i thought about sharing this story about what i done during a boring physics lesson at school, it sounds quite dangerous, but luckily i am still alive to tell your guyz out there.
I was bored during class when the teacher was explaining facts about an electric socket. The teacher told us many facts about an electrical socket that gives an output of 240 volts and 0.5 amps. And then he said that 0.1 amp can kill someone. Without realizing or caring about what he said, i was dared by my friends to shove a pair of scissors into the socket and turn it on. Once i did it, the whole classroom lights suddenly blew out, and all electrical appliances that run on mains switched off. Sparks then came out of the socket holes and I was laughing.
Luckilly the teacher didnt see me or anyone else appart from my friends. After the physics lesson, everyone said that the whole of the 4th floor had a blackout. And dats the point where i laughed hard
I still dont know why i did that in the first place, although i know it was a stupid thing to do and i could have got myself killed. But all i really know is that i blew up many fuse,
it's described at walking on the edge of committing a darvin
Well, I'm not sure if your teacher is mistaken or you've just remembered it wrongly, but a 0.5A on a 240V is not sufficient to power many things. E.g., the total power of a 240V 0.5A is 120W, that's slightly higher than an old fashion 100W lightbulb. The max plug in UK (which I believe is so in HK) is 13A, that is more than 3000W, which then can be used to power stuff like an iron/heater, which goes around 2000W.
Pluging in the scissors to the socket short circuit it and hence creating a flux high current, blowing/triggering any safety fuse along the way. Since you said the entire floor was blackout, it seems that it only blown/triggered 1 major fuse. Unlikely it will cause multiple blown/triggered fuses.
On the 0.1A killing a person issue, if you consider a person's resistance is 2MOhm (which I think is higher than that), it would take a relatively large 20MV (that is 2x10^7) voltage across, which you can't easily get (if not impossible, consider a high tension cable is probably around 1MV). If you were to get that kind of voltage, the power across would be 0.1x0.1x2MOhm = 20,000W, which would definitely kill someone. Consider the amount shown, I bet it takes less than 0.1A to kill someone. To put into perspective, a Taser gun has a peak (not constant) voltage of 50,000V, which is (consider the 2MOhm assumption) 0.025A.
FYI, in most cases of electric shock cases, the fatal part is usually the duration of the electric shock (i.e. small continuous current flowing, cooking you for 30 minutes) or hurting yourself after a shock (i.e. knock yourself onto the solid ground after a shock).
Anyone fall asleep yet? anyway, whatever you do, don't mess with electricity. Respect it.
p/s: Sorry for the lengthy lecture above.. "occupation sickness".
Alan Chan said:
I still dont know why i did that in the first place, although i know it was a stupid thing to do and i could have got myself killed. But all i really know is that i blew up many fuse,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might want to lay off the pipe. As you can see, there is no good that can come from it.
16 Volts AC straight through the heart can be fatal.
AC requires about 60 mA to cause fibrillation, DC needs 500 mA for the same result. Fibrillation is not always fatal....
get new friends
mikechannon said:
Jees it'll be a merciful release.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a heart condition and I can assure you from personal experience that fibrillations are far from mercyful
wow, i never knew you guys would be so passionate about what i did. I thought u guyz would growl at me for my stupidity.
Hanmin, you can be my next physics teacher for giving me a very comprehensive lecture , your lecture was easilly understood compared to my crappy science teacher
and yes ultraprimeomega, i think i may need new friends for the sake of my safety and education
Anyone here watching "Myth busters"?
They did a whole episode on throwing electric appliances in to bathtub and measuring the current across the "heart" of a dummy to see if dropping a hairdryer or toaster in the bath can really kill you.
I didn't see that Mythbuster. I guess it should be confirmed? Although there are lost of circumstances influencing the outcome:
-use pure H2O, it hardly conducts
-use non-ionic bath oil (good for the skin too)
-a decent Residual-current device would cut off power before you can even notice it
-a decent low amp fast fuse could be a life saver
-high ionic bath salt makes the water much more conductive than your body
-place the tub on rubber, use PVC water supply and drain pipes
they had to mess with the fuses to get enough current to kill the gel doll before they went off
Rudegar said:
they had to mess with the fuses to get enough current to kill the gel doll before they went off
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
oh, right, a gel doll again... very nice material for ballistics, although I believe they should put bones in it for realistic results.
Arteries, veins and nerves are full of ions giving excellent conductive paths through our body, I doubt if they simulated those in the gel.
I got kicked out of woodwork when i was 13 for tying a pupils tie round a lathe and threatening to turn it on, because he had made a better baseball bat than me, unfortunatly, for him, my friend hit the power button and nearly killed him, we promptly got suspended and moved into sewing as a punishment, with a teacher from hell. My friend who i wont name decided to wire up some gold thread to the mains socket and complained to her(teacher) that the machine was faulty, needless to say when she touched the machine she was electrocuted along with my friend, who was promptly expelled, and i was giving a severe caning, in those days we had no trip switches so the only thing that saved them both was the thin gold thread that blew as well.
Moral of the story is dont mess with electrics, or hang around with nutcases
Maggy said:
oh, right, a gel doll again... very nice material for ballistics, although I believe they should put bones in it for realistic results.
Arteries, veins and nerves are full of ions giving excellent conductive paths through our body, I doubt if they simulated those in the gel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With an heavy insulation on the outer body part (i.e. skin = not very good conductor), not even a gold wire inside the body matters. Further, I suspect that the water and the bathtub plays an important part as well.
First, consider that you throwing an electrical appliance into the water, chances are, the 'Neutral' line will be in the water (together with the dangerous 'Live'). Any current from the live line will eventually find the shortest path to the neutral line, leaving the rest (i.e. probably you) untouched.
Then, consider that the current is increased, hence requiring not only the shortest path to the neutral, but a lot of paths to the neutral as well. As with the Faraday cage theory, electric current will tend to go around an object (i.e. electrons repelling each other), especially a better conducting one (i.e. a car protecting the driver from a lighting strike). As such, in terms of choice, if the current require additional path to go to the neutral, chances are, it will rather go via the water (better conductor, I think) or the steel bath tub (i.e. like the body of a car), than your body.
Hanmin, your whole story sounds fair enough... for laymen.
First of all you're mixing up AC, DC and static behaviour.
Faraday created spectacular shows using extremely high static charges, indeed comparable to a car hit by lightning. If you want to conduct an experiment with a metal bath tub filled with nice warm water and any bath soap, salt or oil struck from the side by lightning, I volunteer to step in.
So, our PC's have metal housing, you'd say, so they're a Faraday cage? Right? Wrong. I've had a computer company near the Dutch coast where thunder and lightning are regular events. I could tell when repairs would come in the next day. Phone, Lan and power wires go straight into the metal cage without making contact with the cage itself. Lightning doesn't even have to strike these wires directly, induction can be fatal for your equipment.
Edison called AC "the killer current" and refused to sell AC. AC can not "flow away" to neutral, it wants to go to earth/ground. As long as the fuse doesn't blow, it delivers as much energy as it can. In a bath tub it will not behave like lightning trying to find the shortest way, but like a cloud, spearding as fast as it can. Remember electrons all have the same negative load so they push each other away. And they are LIGHTning fast.
That's why it's also not a good idea to use a standard vacuum cleaner to clean your PC on the inside: the motor will create a cloud of electrons trying to find a way to ground. The free electrons can move much faster through the cloud of static charged dust particles toward your PCB than the slow air stream moves to the vacuum.
The surface of the dry skin is indeed a bad conductor. But even good enough for ECG using leads with suction cups or stickers. And ECG measures very faint electrical pulses in the heart, even with leads on the hands or feet.
Most people believe that water is a good conductor. But in fact pure water is an almost perfect isolator. And even tap water in most Western societies is so pure that you can hardly split it into hydrogen and oxigen using a fairly safe 12 V DC set up, not without first adding a hand full of salt. Current needs ions to move through a liquid, our bodies are full of ions, tap water has much less.
Niiccceee.. good that my explaination has someone to read it in details. I'm so worried that my stuff will get everyone to sleep. Anyway...
You are right that the induction from a lighting can toast your phone, lan and power line. However, as these lines are not long and straight enough anywhere near the PC, the fatal induction is actually caused by somewhere along the way to your company (e.g. from the phone exchange, along the telephone pole/underground, to your company). Your PC will be safe from lightling if it is disconnection from possible external induction source (e.g. the phone line to the outside world). I'm happy to put myself inside the PC case (if it is big enough) for a lighting strike
Some history lesson for all. Edison called the AC the killer current mainly because of the business competition between the DC and AC business. As Edison has spent a lot of money and effort just to change the public point of view on the safety of electricity, and just as the business is getting some money... this Tesla (I think) guy made AC electricity and business is good (costrofit ratio), due to the fact that AC has a certain edge on long distance transfer (I'll omit the details on this). Hence, Edison is trying very very hard to make AC look dangerous, by killing innocent animals (in some cases, virtually just cook it), and eventually, co-invented the electric chair.
In the view of the danger of DC current, it is a false impression of most people thinking that DC current is safe, mainly because the DC current we normally exposed to are low voltage DC current (e.g. batteries and phone charger). However, in strict AC/DC defination, a lighting strike is a DC current. And, I think a Taser gun uses DC too (you would certainly need to use some form of capasitor to store enough voltage for a shock, using regular batteries), unless the battery use is exceptionally designed for it.
Anyone has a Taser to confirm this? Does it gives out a buzzing sound from low to high frequency when armed some AA batteries operated cameras with powerful flash will have the same buzzing noise, indicating that the capacitor is charging, ready for the flash).
As for your statement of "AC can not 'flow away' to neutral, it wants to go to
earth/ground.", I'm not sure if you really meant "can not", or "not only". Anyway, all AC electric stuff, electrons goes between live/neutral, and does not require the earth/ground to be functional (not safely, at least).
If you remember some electric circuit theory, if caes where you have two parallel line (AC or DC), with one line much lower resistance (i.e. shorter distance between live and neutral) compared to the other (longer distance to 'ground' where 'ground' is not designed to pair with live), majority of the current will go through the lower resistance route and hence current that goes through the high resistance route maybe very well harmless. HOWEVER, there are cases where the current in through the high resistance route is harmful, that are in the cases where the current going through the low resistance route is excessive high. Example, the low:high resistance current ratio may be 100:1. If it takes (say) 1A to be fatal, the other route will need to have 100A (which will have all fuses nuked - e.g. my house has a main fuse of about 80A for both the heater and the cooker). That's what mentioned on my post above around the "consider that the current is increased..." section. And, as for the case with extreme high current, apply the Faraday thing mentioned on your first paragraph.
Take the Taser gun for example. If you were read the user manual, there is a minimal distance requirement between you and the target, due the the fact that the probes triangular trajectory path. Being too close to the target, will cause the probes to be too closely attached, not giving enough muscle area to 'disable' the target. The electron will not spread around (like clouds) through all the muscle, just the shortest route to the other probe (there may be current through other muscles, but too small to be noticeable).
Where in the Western societies are you in now? US? Nice... in the UK, you are/not so lucky, as you dont get very much pure water over the tap. UK is on hardwater, which seemingly adding mineral to the diet, probably in such situation, protect us from electrocution? If you were to be 1+ hours around London, take a bit of tap water, leave it on any surface and leave it for it to evaporate. At the end of the day, you'll get a pile of white powder. Yes, it is this bad.
As for the ECG issue, it goes the same with the low-vs-high resistance route. I'm sure it wont work underwater (dirty water?). However, still, it is a better conductor than many things.
Taser guns use electronics related to those modern tiny switched power adapters. The result in both cases is indeed DC. The physics of the lightning path are very complex, lightning can fork out to lots of places being hit by one strike but in general you're right that DC/static tries to find a short route.
In one of my first messages in this thread I mentioned what DC it takes to kill, so yes, I'm well aware that there is no such thing as "safe electricity".
If you short a capacitor or battery, current flows in one direction, from high potential to low potential till both potentials are equal.
AC doesn't come in batteries or capacitors, it comes from a generator constantly pulling the potential from above neutral to below neutral, 50 or 60 times a second. If you would short circuit the generator itself it would continue to produce electricity as long as it hasn't killed itself. There is no flowing away till both potentials are equal.
I'm a retired computer engineer, but I still do remember Ohm's law, thank you.
In case of the bath tub it means:
we have a fixed voltage (U) of 110 or 220V, depends where you live
we can measure resistance (I) from the device that drops into the water to the feet of the tub, to the tap, to the drain
U=I.R in this case U=I1.R1+I2.R2...InRn
With an 80A fuse, the radio falling on the feet, the tap behind the back and the drain and two tub feet straight under it it seems likely that about 2/3 of 80A, well lets say 50A will strike you, 50 x 110 = 5500W
That should boil the egg if not electrocute it
I WOULD SAY YOU WOULD GET A GREAT SHOCK FROM A TOASTER IN A BATH. If you took a mains plug and put two springs on the live and neutral and inserted this into a bath of water it would generate heat, i know i have boiled a cup of water for tea by this method. so if the electricity didnt kill you you will be boiled like an egg
yeah in some situations i see myth busters as more intertainment then real science
like when they had a rather small boat as an example of titanic pulling people down when it went down
a such a small raft cant compare to titanic in ways of down pull
but they are ok fun
but if they bust a myth dont mean a 100% bust in my book
Maggy said:
...
we have a fixed voltage (U) of 110 or 220V, depends where you live we can measure resistance (I) from the device that drops into the water to the feet of the tub, to the tap, to the drain
U=I.R in this case U=I1.R1+I2.R2...InRn
With an 80A fuse, the radio falling on the feet, the tap behind the back and the drain and two tub feet straight under it it seems likely that about 2/3 of 80A, well lets say 50A will strike you, 50 x 110 = 5500W That should boil the egg if not electrocute it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Equations, I like! For the case you've calculated above, you consider that the full 80A is flowing. And weirdly, you seemingly considering that 2/3 flowing through a human body. Lets look at this, at the 50A you mentioned (yes, you are right, 5500W will cook you very well). Consider the worst case of U at 240V, your body will have to have (U/I = R) a resistance of 4.8Ohm, which is weirdly small, dont you think?
As with scousemartin's boil an egg, you will have to consider the large amount of water in the bath tub as oppose to the amount of water you use in boiling the egg (e.g. it would take really long for the water to boil) And, even IF the water has similar rate in raise of temperature, I'm sure the person involved will be pretty quick to jump out of the water (when a toaster hit the tub) before it gets boiling.
So I was using my friend's Iphone 5 today.I did some heavy gaming and his phone was transfering heat to all areas of the phone equally, making the chipset get rid of heat easily.If you played some games with 4x hd you'll notice only a part of it gets hot, the part below LG logo at back cover.
So I thought 'why not' and tried to transfer heat equally around the back cover.Had a simple but 'can be effective' idea.Surprisingly this worked greatly and I could feel the heat even at the sides of the phone.
So here is what I did:
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The image pretty much describes it.I used aluminum foil to direct the heat from hot areas to cooler areas.While it sounds too easy it works like magic.
Note that I cut off the connection between the top and bottom aluminum foil so that chipset wouldn't heat the battery up.
(işlemci sıcaklığı = CPU temp and pil sıcaklığı = battery temp.)
No matter what I've done I couldn't get the cpu temperature to go above 60 until I did an antutu stability test and it was around 65 C in the end of the testing and quickly descended to 50 in a matter of seconds.
This screenshot was taken when I had a download of 4~ gb size and phone was just plugged off from charger (all this heats up the battery) so expect battery temperature lower than 40 C in normal usage. (37 ish in my case)
FAQ
Any side effects?
GPS
Did my own tests and while it does not block the signal completly, it weakens them...
With this new method there are no side effects, gps works as perfectly as it would normally and any "possible" (no one reported it so far) cell signal problems are solved aswell.
GPS signal without foil : http://puu.sh/dvF9z/102fc62ba1.png
GPS signal with foil : http://puu.sh/dvF9c/aff68118e3.png
I have toggled gps on/off in both tests before begining the test.
Note that satellites are never stable in my city (signal quality changes per 5 - 10 seconds in both cases due this) so the foil doesn't actually boost your gps signal, screenshots are to show that they both give the same signal quality.
Won't this make my sdcard/battery/SIM card unswapable?
You can still swap battery easily if you ease off with tapes.You'll still be able to swap your battery, microSD and sim card exactly the same way you do now, ONLY if you clothe just the back cover and not the phone as this new method requires sim and microSD slots to be covered tightly.Guide to back cover is under 4th step
But what do I gain from it?
1_)It will increase your battery life.How much depends on how you use your phone.If you put heavy load on it regularly this'll help a lot.If you don't use it long enough to even heat the chipset up it's help won't be noticeable.But even browsing the web gets this phone hot so...
2_)You'll get better performance from your phone : Hot CPU gives less performance compared to a well cooled CPU.Mainly due to throttling*.
*This may or may not prevent throttling on stock ROM as LG has stupidly put a tablet chipset into a phone with only throttling as a temperature adjuster.But I can guarantee no throttling on custom kernels with no overclock.
3_)You will be able to play games without your battery getting drain ridiculously fast.This is mainly due to battery heating up as chipset drains power from it/chipset's heat affecting battery and this will reduce this effect by reducing heat of both.
4_)Extends your phone's life.It is known that running electrical components under high temperature reduces it's lifespans.Battery in particular gets damaged over time, reducing it's capacity and eventually dying off.
5_)You can overclock your phone further as maximum temperature your chipset gets to is reduced enough to overclock it by a bit.
6_)Your chipset will barely heat up to the point of hurting your hands.
How to do it?
You need: 1_) A scissors 2_) An adhesive tape and 3_) A piece of aliminium foil a little longer than your phone (about 3-4 cms longer)
If you adjusted the size by comparing it with screen, you might want to cut the edges of aliminium foil by a bit since back side of the phone has a smaller area than the screen. (do this at step 2)
1_) Shut down your phone (incase battery falls off)
2_) Cut the foil you have to two pieces, one will cover the battery and the other one will cover the chipset AND you'll connect those two aluminum pieces together later on so make the bottom (battery) piece bigger than it should be.
Now you might think this would heat the battery up but our battery has environmental protection and it actually gets hot via the heat transfared through the circuits from chipset to battery.
3_) Make sure you make gaps in the foil for ;
a_)Camera & LED : See how I covered all around them with foil? I just added 2 pieces to cover the top right edges.Don't trouble yourself trying to make gaps for them on the whole foil, use shortcuts.
b_)NFC
c_) GPS ANTENNA : See how in the picture there is a red highlighted spot, half covered with foil and the other half naked? This makes your GPS work.Also the naked part next to it lets your GPS work, so do this part exactly the same as in the picture, if you didn't then don't complain your GPS is not working.Keep the top piece of the square as naked as you can, otherwise the foil may block the signal (in the picture I cut it off like a triangle)
Note : The foil must cover that square even if by a bit since chipset is right below it.Having the foil not touching it would mean this would make a very little difference in temperatures, making your effort go to waste.
d_)WIFI & Bluetooth : This antenna is located to the left of the camera.So avoid foiling the top & left sides of camera.THESE SPOTS ARE FOILED IN THE PICTURE BUT YOU MUST NOT FOIL THEM.
d_)Speaker : Below the battery there is your phone's speaker.Don't cover it with foil (reason is obvious)
4_) Use tapes to stick the foils to the phone.The blue colored marks on the picture are the spots where I used tape on.
Enjoy!
And If you want to still be able to swap your microSD and sim card, do these steps on back cover of your phone (inside of it).This might prove difficult and probably less effective.But if you want even better cooling you can do both.Make sure the foil on your chipset and the foil inside of your back cover are identical and don't block the GPS signal ( http://puu.sh/dzJZ6/d234d3b347.PNG see how I left the bottom left naked? It's because of gps antenna)
And say good bye to your frying pan!
[Thanks to:
@Sipi1302 for the great feedback and making me notice GPS issues.
@Flying_Bear for helping me find where GPS antenna is located at.
Mourta for the idea of clothing insides of the back cover.He is a great developer and I highly recommend you to try out his work.]
Old method : (breaks GPS, possibly lower cell signal, here for informational purposes)
So I was using my friend's Iphone 5 today.I did some heavy gaming and his phone was transfering heat to all areas of the phone equally, making the chipset get rid of heat easily.If you played some games with 4x hd you'll notice only a part of it gets hot, the part below LG logo at back cover.
So I thought 'why not' and tried to transfer heat equally around the back cover.Had a simple but 'can be effective' idea.Surprisingly this worked greatly and I could feel the heat even at the sides of the phone.
So here is what I did:
The image pretty much describes it.I used aluminum foil to direct the heat from hot areas to cooler areas.While it sounds ridiculous it works like magic.
Note that I cut off the connection between the top and bottom aluminum foil so that chipset wouldn't heat the battery up.
(işlemci sıcaklığı = CPU temp and pil sıcaklığı = battery temp.)
No matter what I've done I couldn't get the cpu temperature to go above 60 until I did an antutu stability test and it was around 65 C in the end of the testing and quickly descended to 50 in a matter of seconds.
This screenshot was taken when I had a download of 4~ gb size and phone was just plugged off from charger (all this heats up the battery) so expect battery temperature lower than 40 C in normal usage. (37 ish in my case)
FAQ
Any side effects?
GPS
Did my own tests and while it does not block the signal completly, it weakens them and my phone failed to get a lock without or with foils.
Doing some research, it completly blocks off only if it's wrapped up in foil in multiple layers but test it for yourself.
From my testings it doesn't effect wifi or cell signal so if you don't use GPS (most apps use wifi or data to determine your location) it shouldn't be a problem for you.
Won't this make my sdcard/battery/SIM card unswapable?
You'll still be able to swap your battery, microSD and sim card exactly the same way you do now, if you follow only the optional steps.
Or you can follow the main and optional steps both and ease off with tapes on back side of the phone but optional steps only should be more practical if you swap them daily.
From my experience following both main and optional steps gives the best results.My battery's temperature is around 3 - 4 C lower now (37ish to 33ish) and CPU is sitting around 42 C during charging with wifi on.
But what do I gain from it?
1_)It will increase your battery life.How much depends on how you use your phone.If you put heavy load on it regularly this'll help a lot.If you don't use it long enough to even heat the chipset up it's help won't be noticeable.But even browsing the web gets this phone hot so...
2_)You'll get better performance from your phone : Hot CPU gives less performance compared to a well cooled CPU.Mainly due to throttling*.
*This may or may not prevent throttling on stock ROM as LG has stupidly put a tablet chipset into a phone with only throttling as a temperature adjuster.But I can guarantee no throttling on custom kernels with no overclock.
3_)You will be able to play games without your battery getting drain ridiculously fast.This is mainly due to battery heating up as chipset drains power from it/chipset's heat affecting battery and this will reduce this effect by reducing heat of both.
4_)Extends your phone's life.It is known that running electrical components under high temperature reduces it's lifespans.Battery in particular gets damaged over time, reducing it's capacity and eventually dying off.
5_)You can overclock your phone further as maximum temperature your chipset gets to is reduced enough to overclock it by a bit.
6_)Your chipset will barely heat up to the point of hurting your hands.
How to do it?
You need: 1_) A scissors 2_) An adhesive tape and 3_) A piece of aliminium foil equal to the size of your phone. (you need an additional piece equal to half the size of your phone if you are to follow optional steps [clothing insides of the back cover with aluminum enhances reduction of tempreature greatly])
If you adjusted the size by comparing it with screen, you might want to cut the edges of aliminium foil by a bit since back side of the phone has a smaller area than the screen. (do this at step 2)
1_) Shut down your phone (incase battery falls off)
2_) Take the back cover off, put the foil on top of your phone's back to compare sizes
3_) Now cut the aliminium foil to 2 pieces through the middle:
a_) The bottom piece as seen in picture will cover the battery
b_) The top piece will cover the chipset so make sure you adjust the size accordingly.
4_) *As seen by the picture above, the areas marked with red should be cut off to keep phone features functional (rear speaker, camera/LED and nfc areas)
5_) Now use tapes to stick the foil to your phone.I've marked the spots where I used tapes with blue on the picture but feel free to choose your own.Try your best to not get the tapes/aliminium foil stick out of your phone.
6_) Put the back cover back on, if anything is sticking out try to get rid of it.Mine has perfectly fit in so no one can notice it without opening the back cover.
*If you want to still be able to swap your microSD,battery and sim card, go easy on tapes and stick them only to two edges of each piece of aliminium foil.While it won't be as tight it will still work and you will have no trouble swapping them.You might want to follow the steps below instead if you swap SD/battery/SIM too frequently.
OPTIONAL STEPS (clothing insides of the back cover with aluminum foil)
This makes it more practical for those who swap sd card/battery daily only if you didn't follow the steps above.And if you have followed them, you can still do this to enhance the 'heat sink' further.
1_) Go to substep "b" of step 3 in the steps above and also do step 4.After you are done with them you should now have a piece of aluminum foil identical to the piece of foil we've used for the top (can be seen in the picture).
2_) Place it to insides of your back cover, it should look like this
3_) Use the tapes and stick the foil to back of your cover.
a_) OPTIONAL : See the small piece of foil on top of the camera gap? http://puu.sh/du9EB/5e4e9ff7ef.JPG
You can put the small piece of foil there, the one you have cut from the top piece earlier to make space for NFC connection.This should extend the area where heat is disposed.BUT don't repeat this with the back of the phone and make sure that the piece isn't too thick otherwise there will be a small gap between the back cover and the phone when you put the back cover back on which causes dust to fill in.
[Thanks to Mourta for the idea of clothing insides of the back cover.He is a great developer and I highly recommend you to try out his work.]
Alternative pictures for those who can't see puush pictures :
"Here is what I did"
Temperatures in trickstermod (pil sıcaklığı=battery temperature, işlemci sıcaklığı:CPU temperature)
And say good bye to your frying pan!
Will try and report back
Edit: can confirm that CPU temp does not go above 56 degrees on 1500mhz on performance governor
sent from my amazingly awesome OnePlus One with Stereo Mod
Don't forget to hit thanks!
Installed "cooling system" , now will se how is working.
Sent from my LG-P880 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
abhi08638 said:
Will try and report back
Edit: can confirm that CPU temp does not go above 56 degrees on 1500mhz on performance governor
sent from my amazingly awesome OnePlus One with Stereo Mod
Don't forget to hit thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for confirming
abhi08638 said:
Will try and report back
Edit: can confirm that CPU temp does not go above 56 degrees on 1500mhz on performance governor
sent from my amazingly awesome OnePlus One with Stereo Mod
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Just wondering if it in any way help to improve battery or not?
b886b said:
Just wondering if it in any way help to improve battery or not?
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Click to collapse
Well I actually extended the foil on top of the battery because I'm not using the stock lg one. My battery never goes above 21 degrees anyway and didn't increase with the CPU load either. That should help the battery a little bit but not much
sent from my amazingly awesome OnePlus One with Stereo Mod
Don't forget to hit thanks!
b886b said:
Just wondering if it in any way help to improve battery or not?
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It does help but like I said in OP depends on how you use your phone.
If you play games a lot or if you use wifi and browser with multiple pages open (same goes for data) or anything that heats your phone up also heats your battery up.But if you are the kind of guy who uses his phone for calls, messaging and other small tasks it won't help noticeably.
It is known a hot battery discharges a lot quicklier than a cool battery.Our battery usually operates between 30 - 50 in normal usage also depending on what load you put on it so I'm not sure if it would help with his aftermarket battery but it'll def. help with stock battery especially under load.
ottomanhero said:
It does help but like I said in OP depends on how you use your phone.
If you play games a lot or if you use wifi and browser with multiple pages open (same goes for data) or anything that heats your phone up also heats your battery up.But if you are the kind of guy who uses his phone for calls, messaging and other small tasks it won't help noticeably.
It is known a hot battery discharges a lot quicklier than a cool battery.Our battery usually operates between 30 - 50 in normal usage also depending on what load you put on it so I'm not sure if it would help with his aftermarket battery but it'll def. help with stock battery especially under load.
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Yeah my MPJ battery is unaffected after playing subways surfers on performance at 1300mhz while charging. Im sure the the stock lg battery would have been much hotter since its covered in plastic
The CPU went up to 61 but after I exited the game it fell to 56 and dropping
Sent from my LG-P880 using XDA Free mobile app
I cant see pictures can you provide another one please ?
dimi89 said:
I cant see pictures can you provide another one please ?
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"Here is what I did"
Temperatures in trickstermod (pil sıcaklığı=battery temperature, işlemci sıcaklığı:CPU temperature)
OP updated with alternative links to pictures aswell
Looks like it's working After an hour playing GTA on charger the phone doesn't burn my hands ^^ and the battery temp is ~40 Celsius. One thing bugs me though: isn't the Wi-Fi antenna affected somehow by this? I always had a poor quality signal in my room but I'm not sure wether now isn't it slightly harder to connect.
Still, great idea man
So far I didn't notice eny problems with wifi connections on my phone. Although I didn't get connection on satellite using GPS, will try use GPS again at home.
Edit: sadly I have to confirm after removing aluminum foil connected on GPS satelits in few seconds so it seems that foil is blocking GPS antenna or maybe is just on my LG 4x HD.
Sent from my LG-P880 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
wadimw said:
Looks like it's working After an hour playing GTA on charger the phone doesn't burn my hands ^^ and the battery temp is ~40 Celsius. One thing bugs me though: isn't the Wi-Fi antenna affected somehow by this? I always had a poor quality signal in my room but I'm not sure wether now isn't it slightly harder to connect.
Still, great idea man
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Click to collapse
I thought the same way and tested before applying foil and after, I can say that there is no noticeable difference.I have tested it with Wifi Analyzer (shows strenght in dbm) and results were identical, so were the download speeds and the range it can connect to router at.
I haven't tested GPS since I can barely get any signal in my city anyway.Though I doubt it'd effect it since people mostly use GPS in their cars and it still works despite it.Needs testing though @Sipi1302
Can you be more specific how you did the testing exactly?
Did my own tests and while it does not block the signal completly, it weakens them and my phone failed to get a lock with or without the foils.
Doing some research, it completly blocks off only if it's wrapped up in foil in multiple layers but test it for yourself.
Updated OP.This could create problems for people who use GPS but most apps decide location with location services that use wifi or data to determine it so you shouldn't worry about not being able to receive weater updates etc.
First I needed GPS in my car during driving, normally get locked in couple of second, but this time didn't get eny connection and no satelits. Than when I came home I try GPS again and no satelits visible so I remove foil and have 6-7 satelits visible and lock in 10 second and all that I tested inside my house.
Sent from my LG-P880 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Sipi1302 said:
First I needed GPS in my car during driving, normally get locked in couple of second, but this time didn't get eny connection and no satelits. Than when I came home I try GPS again and no satelits visible so I remove foil and have 6-7 satelits visible and lock in 10 second and all that I tested inside my house.
Sent from my LG-P880 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
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Thanks for letting us know.It doesn't make any trouble for me as I don't use GPS at all so didn't have it in mind to test but it might cause trouble for other users.I've updated 'sideffects' with GPS so people will be warned about it.
OK maybe cutting foil on place were is GPS receiver solve the problem, will see and report back
Sent from my LG-P880 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
I did a slightly modified version,i used an aluminium tape,real thin one,and i taped it almost everywhere,and i didn't even need to tape it on the back cover. The temperature drops almost instantly to 34° after using,and i mean in the matter of seconds,never gets hot,and does not exceed 45°
DeHuMaNiZeD said:
I did a slightly modified version,i used an aluminium tape,real thin one,and i taped it almost everywhere,and i didn't even need to tape it on the back cover. The temperature drops almost instantly to 34° after using,and i mean in the matter of seconds,never gets hot,and does not exceed 45°
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Good idea, thinner means it'll stick to even smallest of the corners but I'd recommend you to not use that on battery as it will transfer heat from chipset directly to the battery.Even while it doesn't touch it will make it heat up more than usual
Sipi1302 said:
OK maybe cutting foil on place were is GPS receiver solve the problem, will see and report back
Sent from my LG-P880 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
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I was planning to do the same but I have no idea where the gps receiver is.
Btw, using foil only at the backside of the phone with no foil clothed into the back cover gives better gps signal comparably.This is probably due to "faraday cage" effect and well we can just put a piece of aluminum between the back side of the phone and back cover to make sure there is no space between them, acts like a thermal paste in a way, avoiding faraday cage effect (blocks signals off) while maintaining similiar temperatures.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDyngdY8rD8
Interesting video.Aluminum would probably increase GPS signal too if placed properly, just need to figure out where the antenna is.I already found where cell antenna is, it's to the right of NFC connectors.While using single layer aluminum didn't reduce cell signal using double layer may have.I have excellent signal in my house so I'll have to test it somewhere else.
yellow-highlighted components are antennas (and a few of them are connectors, e.g. the one under camera), unclear which is which but I'm certain top-right one is cell antenna
http://site.repairsuniverse.com/images/LG-Optimus-4X-HD/optimus-4x-hd-repair-2.jpg
Source : http://www.repairsuniverse.com/lg-optimus-4x-repair-guide.html
ottomanhero said:
yellow-highlighted components are antennas (and a few of them are connectors, e.g. the one under camera), unclear which is which but I'm certain top-right one is cell antenna
http://site.repairsuniverse.com/images/LG-Optimus-4X-HD/optimus-4x-hd-repair-2.jpg
Source : http://www.repairsuniverse.com/lg-optimus-4x-repair-guide.html
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Click to collapse
gps antenna is probably somewhere near headphone jack, since our phone completely loses GPS signal if you plug in headphones
This idea may seem silly, but no less silly than trying to remove foam, add foam, or make floam.
I found this trick while trying to figure out why no adjustment to the Durovis Dive (moveable lenses) seemed as clear as I expected. The solution was to move where the headset sat on my face, despite it not feeling like that was the "intended placement"
Whether or not you use the nose piece is up to you. I honestly never took the time to compare the two foam blobs, so whichever is the default is the one I use. Most of the trick involves using the tension of the top headband, so adjust the one that wraps around your head to wherever it is tight, but still comfortable.
The next part is where it varies by user. You will want to put the headset on and adjust the focus wheel to get as clear as possible for you. After you are comfortable with the view and about to come back here and say WTF, hold the headset by both sides and move it slightly higher on your face. If the view gets clearer, adjust the top band to keep it locked in place. If there is no change, try moving it lower on your face, and again adjust as needed.
While this may not fit into a scientific explanation of pixel depth, it is a rather simple concept. By moving the headset up or down, you actually slightly alter the angle in relation to your eyes. Most games and apps are intended for a view "level to the eye" and when the headset is too low, your nose can cause it to angle slightly downward. When it is too high, the upward tilt can cause your eyes to strain a bit more.
Hopefully that can help some to solve their issue with clarity before running off to cut up or pack in any additional parts.
Depends upon what you mean by clarity? If you mean focus then sure, wearing the headset in different positions may improve focus depending on what works best for your eyes - I personally like to wear my GVR lower on my face for this very reason. However I don't believe this will reduce the appearance of pixels or make them smaller unless of course adjusting the headset in this manner moves the screen further from your face.
Have never personally had focus issues with the GVR other than 360 videos, but I believe that to be a software and not a hardware issue.
**Interesting idea another member posted was to use an anti-glare screen protector. This would serve to diffuse the edges of pixels and thus may smooth them out. No idea what negative effects this would have on focus as I don't own this type of screen protector. Sounds plausible though.
Closed due to excessive trolling.
I read somewhere the FOV is around 101 degrees. I must say it's a very small FOV compared to my BoboVR Z4 which has a much wider FOV. I tested both headsets with the same phone and same app and I could see more wider view on the Z4. I know BoboVR claim 120 FOV on their headset but if the Gear VR truly is 101 degrees then the BoboVR must be around 110 degrees.
The length of the the wide opening on the outside of the lenses is shorter than that of the BoboVR. So is there anyway to improve the Gear VR FOV? I noticed the inside walls on the outside of the lenses are straight. Perhaps we can cut away some of the plastic to make it more rounded and wider. Has anyone done this?
According too this site, they measured the FOV at just under 90 degrees which is exactly what it feels like. Samsung are claiming 101 degrees. Why do all manufacturers exaggerate their FOV measurements? Really sucks.
http://www.sitesinvr.com/viewer/gearvr2016/index.html
You can GREATLY improve FOV by replacing the default face pad with something much thinner ( I used some bicycle helmet padding ). I know it doesn't seem like it would make that much of a difference--but it does. It's also easy to do because the Gear has a thin line of velcro built in so it is easy to remove the original padding and try various replacements.
If you have a phone with a bigger screen you can also use a dremel to cut away some of the plastic shield covering up the screen. I have a 5.7 inch screen and the Gear is designed for much smaller screens, so I lose a lot of pixels if I don't mod the headset myself.
Haints said:
You can GREATLY improve FOV by replacing the default face pad with something much thinner ( I used some bicycle helmet padding ). I know it doesn't seem like it would make that much of a difference--but it does. It's also easy to do because the Gear has a thin line of velcro built in so it is easy to remove the original padding and try various replacements.
If you have a phone with a bigger screen you can also use a dremel to cut away some of the plastic shield covering up the screen. I have a 5.7 inch screen and the Gear is designed for much smaller screens, so I lose a lot of pixels if I don't mod the headset myself.
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Currently I am placing the padding under heavy weight to see if it will flatten it somewhat.
Also I did think about cutting some of the sides away as you suggest, but upon further analysis I don't think it will help much.
tboy2000 said:
Currently I am placing the padding under heavy weight to see if it will flatten it somewhat.
Also I did think about cutting some of the sides away as you suggest, but upon further analysis I don't think it will help much.
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The default padding has a pretty firm backing. I think you'd have better results replacing it with something that didn't.
As for cutting away the sides, I also did extensive testing. With a 5.7 inch phone, it definitely helps. Smaller phones perhaps not.
Haints said:
The default padding has a pretty firm backing. I think you'd have better results replacing it with something that didn't.
As for cutting away the sides, I also did extensive testing. With a 5.7 inch phone, it definitely helps. Smaller phones perhaps not.
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Do you have a photo of your mod please?
Since we have no dedicated hardware modding subforum I just went for the mod section - feel free to move the thread accordingly if I am in the wrong.
Recently I broke my OP3 and bought two used ones with shattered displays of ebay, assembling a frankenstein sort of phone with my working parts. Now I have two working OP3s, my daily driver and one with a shattered display. In addition, I have one that is almost completely ruined and useless. That got me thinking.
I recently saw a lot of manufacturers incorporating heat pipes made of copper, filled with a little liquid into their devices to spread the heat from the SoC more efficiently along the backside of the device. Namely the Razer Phone, The Galaxy S8 and S9, the new Pocophone F1, just to name a few. Naturally, these parts come available at replacement shops for cheap. Like here for example: https://stellatech.com/en/samsung-sm-g950f-galaxy-s8-heat-pipe,a,828202.html/
Now, since my OP3 tends to get hot in the SoC/Camera area not only during gaming, I thought why not try fitting one of these to the aluminum back of the phone. The OP3 appears to have some sort of thermally conducting sticker, connecting the SoC under its shield to the aluminum back for heat dissipation.
My plan would be to Dremel a groove into the aluminum back, to fit the heat pipe. Then secure it in place with thermally conducting glue, alternatively thermal paste and some drops of epoxy along the way. Remove the shield from the soc, cut the sides off for easier alignment and solder it to the heat pipe.
Then add some thermal paste to the CPU and GPU and press the back/heat pipe/shield assembly on, closing up the phone. Paste would have to be replaced every time the phone is opened though.
I am open to any suggestions how to better achieve this as well as educated guesses on the effectiveness of my project.
I
Or better
Replace the shield with thermal pad copper joined with the heatpipe
Apply liquid metal instead normal thermal paste
Make many tiny holes in the back case
Make a custom build cooler pad with 11000 RPM fans
Build by yourself or ask some kernel devs to put a very high frequencies in the custom setting
Put it on youtube with a clickbait title even it's not working
$ Profit $
150208 said:
Or better
Replace the shield with thermal pad copper joined with the heatpipe
Apply liquid metal instead normal thermal paste
Make many tiny holes in the back case
Make a custom build cooler pad with 11000 RPM fans
Build by yourself or ask some kernel devs to put a very high frequencies in the custom setting
Put it on youtube with a clickbait title even it's not working
$ Profit $
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Someone give this guy a medal!!
Aluminium alone works also as a heat spreader. So I would maybe first try to polish the area on the case where the SoC is , to improve contact quality, and then use some higher quality thermal pad.
Run benchmarks before and after. (Like 10,x geekbench in a row.)
Heatpipes're used everywhere in tech these days. They work fine. I enjoy a snarky comment as much as the next droider, but really there's no reason you couldn't mod a case back to have a heatpipe running all the way down, although it might heat up the battery running past it.
Alternative
or you can try using this instead just copy paste on Amazon
Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad – Alternative To Thermal Paste/Grease (30 X 30mm)
for us, the PC enthusiasts its been working legit wonders while not having the downsides of paste
I think it would be unnecessary for already cooled device