Hey everyone, I'm having trouble with my headphone socket. Im only getting sound through the left earphone, unless I push really hard forwards with the Jack.
This leads my to believe that the socket itself is loose and has moved... after sending my incredible for repair(returned with about 5 of the screws off the back missing)
Does anyone know if its possible to simply remove the back housing. Then reposition and tighten the socket again? Or even get a replacement one to stick in it, as well as replacement screws??
Btw I can't simply send the phone in for repair again, its a long story haha.
Thanks in advance
Sent from my Incredible S using xda premium
Are u sure its the socket?? Did u try other headphones?? Maybe your headphones wires a lose at the end which is very normal!!
Sent from my HTC Incredible S using Tapatalk
you should try another headphone or another device
if headphone socket is fine then you should send your device for repair again
My Inc S has the exact same problem as the OPs. I've tried many different headphones and they all have the same problem so it is the phone itself. I've returned the phone for repair once already and told them about this problem but it wasn't fixed. I just sent my phone in for repairs the other day so hopefully they'll fix it this time.
I'll let you know if they do repair it, or you can try your luck on your own and send it in if you want. I would be interested in an answer to the OPs question as well though.
pheonix2468 said:
Does anyone know if its possible to simply remove the back housing. Then reposition and tighten the socket again? Or even get a replacement one to stick in it, as well as replacement screws??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I opened the phone once, and sadly, the socket looks something like this
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so to replace it you need to desolder and resolder back
thanks
I had it as well, was fixed by htc the first time i've sent it in though,
now i am familiar with electronics and i can say that with a good amount of certainty that the socket itsself is probably not broken, if you push foreward you are actually pushing a pin that is giving bad contact on the pcb. if you can solder and are willing to open your phone , it's just a small job to resolder the pins of the HP socket on the PCB. you dont have to take it off or swap it, just heat the solder points with a solder pen (20 Watt or less) untill the solder melts and reestablishes contact. This happens because most headphonejacks stick out a bit (especially with large oheadphones) and if a little force is applied on in (eg: from being in your pocket or whatever) it acts as a lever , amplifying the force inside the phone and breaking the tiny solder points of the female jack. This stuff is very common with phones and MP3 players, and i have fixed loads already (when out of warranty)
good luck with it
Thanks everyone, I've tried plenty of headphones and they all work on other devices.
It definatly seems as though it's come loose, and I'm out of warrenty with a year left on my contract, I'll grab the soldering iron out later and let you all know how that goes.
I too had the same issue. Had to send it to HTC to get it repaired
actually it's an issue of all inc s decices. i had the same prob n my friend too
Hey guys,
Inc2 here. The headphone Jack has a few metal tabs that (over time) stretch inwards thus losing contact.
I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE FOLLOWING, PERFORM AT YOUR OWN RISK:
Using a Torx-bit (T5?) to remove the back housing will allow you to access the headphone Jack.
Use a fine-tipped flat head screwdriver to gently push inwards on the tabs.
Afterwards get a Q-Tip and squeeze/twist one end (making it smaller in size) and dip that end into rubbing alcohol, squeezing again to remove excess fluid.
Insert into the headphone Jack and twist in a Clockwise motion until the contacts are clean.
Reassemble and enjoy
TA4S
I don't know why
Related
So what's the GPS connector on the back?
Has anyone figured it out yet?
I heard rumours of an MMCX, so I got one of those and found it won't fit.
Im skeptical about the MCX variety due to the way it looks to have some plastic shielding which doesn't seem right. Then of course there's the MC-Card which looks too small.
Anyone actually know?
i googled and found the blueprints for each connector - surprisingly, the MCX has a smaller male plug, by .3mm (approx .012"
blueprint on MMCX male connector - male plug = 2.65mm
http://www.rfconnector.com/sheets/MCSM11GT-316.pdf
blueprint on MCX male connector - male plug = 2.35mm
http://www.rfconnector.com/sheets/MXSM11GT-316.pdf
i've got a pin guage set, (in inch standards) at the shop
wife's still at the shop - i'll see if i can get her to bring it home and at least post the ID of the socket tonite - if she's already left it will have to be tomorrow
okay, got the pin set and i had thought the socket was a, well, female socket
mine's a male plug, so instead of reading the ID which is filled with a black plastic insulator, best i could do, under a strong light, was match up to the closest pin guage,
it matches to .110" to .111" (1mm = .03937") - can't tell exact cause i'm basically matching a shaft to the diameter of the brass plug and it's recessed below the surface of the black plastic frame
.110 X .03937" = 2.794mm
i'd need to pull it out and measure with a caliper to get exact, but the pin guages are pretty close - which means it's not either a MCX or MMCX
i don't know what the tolerances are for the gap in an electronic connector, but i'd think .0015 - .002" would be all that's necessary - even allowing .005" (which would be an extremely loose fitting connection), the female MMCX socket would still be too small for that plug
i also wonder about that black insulator with that small hole in the center. I was thinking a single stiff center prong on the female side goes inside the inner hole, but the hole isn't exactly centered. Considering how small and fragile that lead would have to be, that small opening not being center would make it difficult to mount the female side without bending or damaging the center lead.
i would like to see what samsung has for the other side of that connection
as to what that connector is, my background isn't in the electronics industry - maybe somebody else, with the dimensions i gave above can step in and identify
Could it be one of these? Im thinking, MC-Card
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okay - just pulled the phone apart, god i hate prying that black plastic subframe from the bezel - anyway, put a digital caliper on it and depending on where i read it, outside diameter of that plug in the phone is showing 2.79mm to .282mm (remember, .1mm is approx .004, .01 is approx .0004 or 4 ten thousandths")
and i put it under an 8X loupe - there is a gold or brass surface inside the black polymer insulator
looking at the pix you put up, the MCX is larger than the MMCX, which is what i had thought - maybe i'm reading, on the blueprints up above, the diameter of the wrong end of the plug body - but they aren't providing the diameter of the other end - could be they're just assume industry standards for the actual connector plug
there are adaptors to adapt from mmcx to mcx - might be easier than sourching another antenna, but if you bought that antenna from that vendor in hong kong, the adaptor will probably cost more than the antenna did
here in the states, we have shops like AVEC's electronics (brick and mortar), - i'll see if the local one has a MCX adaptor in stock or anything male MCX that i can go by and try to see if it fits
Hi Folks,
may I introduce you poor man's desk stand:
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This construction is open source. Feel free to use and improve it as you like The only constriction is, you have to post it (photos) on this thread, if you rebuild and improve my poor man's desk stand.
yet another nice idea
DN41
I love these I always make one when someone suggests one, I've got like six littering my desk
Push this thread
haha sound tha like mate just wantz painting or graffn up
that's awesome... no charging thoug... but still... at that price...
try this....
PS: Its not me in the video !!
Cool idea I think a lot of people became poor cause of the expensiveness of the HD2
GoGo Stand
Saw this thread and just had to tell you about my friend's site that addresses this very thing. His nick is Envador, and he's become very well known for his computer case mods. Aside from that, he came up with an idea for a phone/stand and he calls it the GoGoStand. you can check them out at
http://www.gogostand.com/
They fit in your wallet and are literally the size of a credit card.
I have 4 of them.
Lord60 said:
Saw this thread and just had to tell you about my friend's site that addresses this very thing. His nick is Envador, and he's become very well known for his computer case mods. Aside from that, he came up with an idea for a phone/stand and he calls it the GoGoStand. you can check them out at
http://www.gogostand.com/
They fit in your wallet and are literally the size of a credit card.
I have 4 of them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome for just $5
Great job dude,
I have in my mind something like this, could you please post the measssurements of the base of your coarton dock?
I'm looking for an angled micro usb data cable so I can attach it to the dock and charge it at the same time, also I think I can get it covered with FIBERGLASS and then paintwith some glossy black spry paint..
That's what I have in mind, just need to start with the meassurements.
Thanks for all!
Lord60 said:
Saw this thread and just had to tell you about my friend's site that addresses this very thing. His nick is Envador, and he's become very well known for his computer case mods. Aside from that, he came up with an idea for a phone/stand and he calls it the GoGoStand. you can check them out at
http://www.gogostand.com/
They fit in your wallet and are literally the size of a credit card.
I have 4 of them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i saw this on this on the interweb around last summer. it was not this nice, the guy had posted how to make this yourself with a template. i made one from the side of a milk jug. it worked ok. i since bought the EB with kickstand so i tossed it. i dont always use the EB so i placed an order for these things. thanks for throwing this thing out for us.
Wire stand variation allowing charging & headphones
Hi all. I decided to make a version of the paperclip desk stand that would allow me to keep the charger plugged in and listen to headphones. You will need:
- 1 plastic coated wire clothes hanger OR ~ 60 cm of coated wire - not too heavy gauge or it will be hard to bend.
- Pliers
- Cloth to grip wire with to avoid damage from pliers
- Paper to put template on
- A ruler and pen
Method: Rule a 29cm line on the paper. Starting at the left hand end, mark the following positions on the line - 6.5cm, 11.5cm, 14.5cm, 19.5cm and 28.5cm. Hold the left hand end of the wire up against the line and transfer the marks to the wire, including the 29cm end which is halfway. Turn the wire, keeping the 29cm mark in line with the end of the ruled line and transfer the marks from right back to left on the remaining ~30cm of wire. Use the pliers to trim the excess wire off the end of the wire. Now, starting in the middle of the wire, bend the wire ~75-90 degrees at the 28.5cm marks - there should be about a cm of wire between the bends. Next, bend the wire into a hairpin bend at the 19.5cm marks. Then bend the wire ~85-90 degrees at the 14.5cm marks. This makes two 5cm "legs" at the back of the stand. Bend the wire ~85-90 degrees back down at the 11.5cm marks. Then make hairpin bends at the 6.5cm marks. Using the cloth and pliers, grip the 4 "hairpins" and squeeze the wires as close together as you can get them. Last, grip the short front ends of the wire and bend them outwards to avoid scratching the phone. Voila - a stand that can hold your HD2 while it's charging (pretend my old iPaq in the pic is the HD2 I used to take the photos )
Note: it isn't super stable, but it isn't intended to be.
Note 2: the other stand is "one I prepared earlier" from an over-the-door hanger. More stable, but doesn't have room for the charging cable.
My new hobby - creative accessories for the HD2
This is my first post and already I see that this has been posted to the forums. But the deed is done so I'd like to share my thoughts anyway. -Unfortunately I just found out that I'm not allowed to link to the pics until post #8 so maybe I'll come back and post them later. Anyway...
I'm in the process of integrating a galaxy tab into my car's dash and needed a way to power it, have usb access, and get audio off simultaneously. The stock RCA adapter doesn't have a charging mechanism or USB. But the dock seems to cover all the bases with charging capability, 30 pin connector, and audio line out (I won't be using the HDMI). I ordered one and promptly cracked it open.
This picture (would) show the top case (if I could post the pic), the guts and the rubber mat that I peeled off the bottom. Much to my surprise it was screwed together with actual screws and just popped right open.
At first I thought the big metal thing was a shield but I think its mainly there as a weight. The weight helps to make the device feel more solid but really its the same plastic you find anywhere.
As for my project, I need to extend the section that connects to the tab. That section is attached with a standard 12 pin ribbon cable that I can easily solder on wires or make an FPC-FPC cable extender if I'm feeling fancy
TunaCanyon said:
-Unfortunately I just found out that I'm not allowed to link to the pics until post #8 so maybe I'll come back and post them later. Anyway....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm very interested in seeing this. I think I can post photos if you would like to PM or e-mail a link or the photos to me.
.
I think I'm good now. Here are the pics
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If anyone needs this, disassembly is very easy. Just peel off the rubber bottom and expose the 4 small phillips screws. Use a knife or very thin flat blade to separate the bottom plate from the cover. There are 2 tabs on each side holding it together. If you force the top outwards on the long side you can disconnect them and start to wiggle it out. Be careful not to damage the connectors since they portrude through the top housing. After that its just some tape on the shield/weight, 3 more screws and you're done!
TunaCanyon said:
This is my first post and already I see that this has been posted to the forums. But the deed is done so I'd like to share my thoughts anyway. -Unfortunately I just found out that I'm not allowed to link to the pics until post #8 so maybe I'll come back and post them later. Anyway...
I'm in the process of integrating a galaxy tab into my car's dash and needed a way to power it, have usb access, and get audio off simultaneously. The stock RCA adapter doesn't have a charging mechanism or USB. But the dock seems to cover all the bases with charging capability, 30 pin connector, and audio line out (I won't be using the HDMI). I ordered one and promptly cracked it open.
This picture (would) show the top case (if I could post the pic), the guts and the rubber mat that I peeled off the bottom. Much to my surprise it was screwed together with actual screws and just popped right open.
At first I thought the big metal thing was a shield but I think its mainly there as a weight. The weight helps to make the device feel more solid but really its the same plastic you find anywhere.
As for my project, I need to extend the section that connects to the tab. That section is attached with a standard 12 pin ribbon cable that I can easily solder on wires or make an FPC-FPC cable extender if I'm feeling fancy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm curious to see how this comes out. Please post pics when you can. I personally don't want to dock it because it means I have to take it out of my case each time and have though about just taking the dock apart so that all I would have to do is plug in the connector and be able to leave it in the case at the same time.
i have a galaxy tab in my car.
The solution for it was the standard samsung car dock, which has input for the included car charger.
The audio is provided via bluetooth to the car through Blackberry Stereo Audio Gateway, meaning that to my AUX in jack in my car i have hooked up this device which is also powerd up via USB and the music from samsung plays through bluetooth to my AUX in.
This was by far the cleanest setup i could do. there are no hanging wires or visible wires involved.
My plan is to take it up a notch. I want to tap in to my car's instrument bus and be able to reset the trip counter/mileage/etc and control the tab with the steering wheel buttons. It'll be a couple months before that happens...
Anyway, I ordered a bunch of stuff from digikey to extend the ribbon cable without having to cut anything.
very interested in this. any progress ?
Another thread resurrection
I note that the PCB has some solder pads on it saying Gnd, Tx and Rx, I don't suppose you (or anyone else) has had a look to see what these are connected to?
I'm just wondering if these are connected to the serial lines as it would be a lot easier to solder to these than the innards of a chopped up cable.
Anyone tried this?
Amazing project!! Great info
Sent from my EVO 4G Supersonic
I purchased my International Note in May and love it. It's an amazing replacement for my Dell Streak 5. A few weeks back I was charging it via my PS3 and it couldn't decide if it was unplugged/plugged in. At that point it would intermittently charge, and then things got worse when it would think it was plugged into the car dock or it would load the Samsung audio hub.
I did some research and narrowed it down to the USB hub (duh)... I tried cleaning the USB cable and port connections with no results. I figured out I could shut the phone off, plug in the USB and it would charge the battery but it would still randomly load and close the dock apps, or turn on/off the screen randomly. The phone was almost useless at that point.
If you are dealing with the above symptoms, all my research and experience points squarely to replacing the "Charge Connector Port USB Flex Cable" to fix these problems. From what I've read this problem is not an isolated Note problem, or even isolated to just Samsung and can be narrowed down to the 3rd and 4th pin.
Anyway, I found a few retailers on eBay selling the part I figured I needed for fairly reasonable prices. I bought one from a US based retailer, and one from one based out of China. Similar prices from both, and only one day difference in delivery days. I also purchased a iPhone tool kit on eBay for a whopping $5. You need a small Phillips screwdriver, a pair of tweezers, and a pry tool to pop off the flex cables. Oh, and guitar pick. We'll get to that later.
Tools and the Note
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Ok, now, on to this tutorial type thing.
To get started - shut off your phone, and pop off the battery cover. Remove the pen, battery, sim and SD card and set them aside. At this point you'll see nine screws that secure the rear portion of the phone to the metal frame. I used the screwdriver to loosen them to the point of almost being free and then held onto them with the tweezers, then put them in a lens filter case. I lost one.
After the 9 screws have been removed it's time to use the guitar pick to separate the two pieces of the phone. Holding the phone with the screen towards you, slide the pick in on either the volume rocker side, or power button side. You can then slide the pick down towards the bottom of the phone. It may take a bit of work, but just be patient and take your time. Work the sides and bottom of the bezel and it will pop free much like the battery cover does.
Stairway to Heaven
Now, you will be greeted by the powerful innards of the Note!
At this point of the job you will need that nifty little pry tool and more patience. There are 3 screws located on the housing that the speaker is molded into that cover the USB port. Remove those screws, and you'll see the antenna cable attachment and flex cable. Initially I removed all the flex cables. I looked closer and realized all you need to do is remove the antenna cable mounted to the charge port and pop free the two flex cables at the bottom of the phone and one screw on the power button side of the phone.
Three screws to remove the speaker housing.
Once this screw had been removed you can slide the flex cable attached to the charge port free and remove the old part.
Take the new part, slide the flex cable under, bend it up and connect the two flex cables and antenna. Make sure these are secure, the smaller flex cable powers your capacitive buttons! Now, it is just a matter of working in reverse.
I found this to be a very simple job and better than that my Note is back to being awesome again. All of the problems previously mentioned are gone. The phone charges just as it should and everything is right in the world.
And, just for your consideration I included pictures comparing the parts from the different suppliers to the OEM version. I am using the Chinese version as it seemed to be a better constructed piece. Search for them on eBay as "easytradingco".
Left - Chinese, Top right - OEM, Bottom Right - USA
If anyone has questions, don't hesitate to ask! Hope this helps!
I'm gonna be doing this in about 2 minutes and I'm scared as hell. If anybody has any special tips not mentioned above please post below.
ok..i'm diving in!
OK. I did it but I couldn't put it back together (and I also lost a screw! but found it again..lucky me!)
When you slide the housing back in, start from the top of the phone and work to the bottom. The bottom slides back very easily but the top is extremely tricky.
I'm surprised no one else had to replace the usb charging port?
THANK THE LORD!!! IT'S ALIVE! Thanks to Rosh I resuscitated my phone! I'm totally gonna buy another spare part.
And I'm probably gonna buy a white housing to mix and match parts.
Anways, thanks Rosh!
This is the part I bought mine from. Like I said, I'm gonna buy another. I couldn't flash certain ROMs without fixing this first.
Glad I could help, leafsacc!
I changed mine a couple weeks ago, the only thing I noticed different, BOTH boards were stamped GT-7000/I something with a date.
Both boards look identical, but, the one that I took out of the Note, appeared like the one in your upper right photo. "Gray tape" or whatever
it is, and the new one does not. Since replacing it with the one that looks similar to the one in your lower left photo, the signal level on
my note is a little iffy in spots, where it wasn't before. I'm guessing that the one I ordered, from China...may not quite be like the one
that was the OEM version (my note is the international version, Amazon Germany).
tnx
Hello guys, after 3 years with my device the power button died on me, so I ordered this replacement on Amazon, and replaced it myself, I had changed the screen and battery before also, with no problems so far.
So, I open the phone, and it had 3 stripped screws:
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I used a 1 mm drill do remove them, and apparently (visually) I didn't do any damage to the device.
I had to add the battery, the camera glass and another part to the replacement, I don't know what it does:
It's not connected by wire, just by "pressure".
Ok, I turn on the phone, on wifi, and everything works great(Signal had full bars). So I closed it without the missing screws.
When I went out to dinner, by 4G had full bars, no X, but not working. I tested with an app, and it showed the signal was ok.
I did an Network Reset, and it didn't help at all.
Now most of the time I have ZERO signal, or 4G with an X, sometimes HSPA works perfectly, sometimes with an X, today I had 4G working for 30 minutes, with 5mb down and 0.25mb up, but right now Zero signal again, and I was in São Paulo and Rio, so big cities with total 4G and 3G coverage.
I didn't have time to do a full wipe because of the holidays, but I don't think it's software related, but I will.
I don't know where the antenna is, or if I could have damaged it, but it makes no sense for me to have full bars and data one minute, and none on the other.
I will open it up again, and also do a full wipe, but I'm curious if someone here have some insight about this problem.
Nexus 6 7.1.1 N6F27I (August 5,2017)
Magisk v14.0
Again, it was working on 4G with 50mb speeds (Max in Brazil for me) moments before my repair.
Thank you very much!
That would be 1 of the 2 speakers that is circled in red. I have torn mine apart atleast 25 times over the years and no signal issues but I did try and find the antenna contacts awhile back and from what I could gather, didn't spend alot of time looking, but they make contact around near the top corners, either one or both I cannot remember, you can see the small square gold contacts in the picture, then from the contacts into the actual midframe itself, hence why there are the 8 "joints" around it, 2 on each corner, I believe those are the antenna lines as it would have been easier for them to just make the midframe a solid piece over multiple parts. I have bent one of my corners to where I can move one of the corners a pretty good amount almost pulling it apart when it's just the midframe by itself so I don't think it's damaged Soo easily, rather try cleaning all of the gold contacts around the midframe, also look very very close at the "pins"(?) That the contacts line up with on the Mobo, they are tiny as hell and can be bent easy, if one is then that could explain it, isopropyl alcohol 89% or higher will clean any surface and is safe, 99% if ur pharmacy carries it lol. Before all that try the baseband cache eraser in the radio thread and flash it in TWRP, maybe flash the newest radio before you resort to opening her up again. Good luck!
LaGgY_42o said:
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, I didn't open it again because of the holidays, and I will make a full reflash tomorrow.
Using the drill made a bit of iron powder, it might be it somewhere on a connection, I have the isopropyl alcohol at home, I will try it too.
Thank you for the answer!
Febag92 said:
Thank you, I didn't open it again because of the holidays, and I will make a full reflash tomorrow.
Using the drill made a bit of iron powder, it might be it somewhere on a connection, I have the isopropyl alcohol at home, I will try it too.
Thank you for the answer!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not a problem. Far as the metal shavings goes I'd personally take a very close look over everything, softest bristle toothbrush you can find normally works well for cleaning without damaging anything, I've also found one of my girls smaller/thinner makeup brushes worked wonders for not only the inside but insanely well on the front speaker grills lol. Also as I'm sure you know speakers having magnets inside them it would be a good place for metal shavings to build up. Also if you are having any issues with the speakers or feel they are low they are like $5 or less on Amazon.
Don't worry about a screw or 2 missing lol, think mines missing 2 itself also the middle red circled screw you highlighted, the one above the bottom most highlighted screw, along with, (I believe it to be the one to the right of the camera housing, be careful with them as if they are tightened down past a point they beging putting pressure on the screen bowing it out. Try to go little by little and feel the screen as you tighten to assure it's still flat.
LaGgY_42o said:
Also as I'm sure you know speakers having magnets inside them it would be a good place for metal shavings to build up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I felt really naive when you said it was the speaker, it was so obvious, it was a magnet! Thank you again, I will take a better look inside! :fingers-crossed: