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Hello Ladies and Gents,
Does anyone know how/where to insert the strap in the MDA Compact IV?
I usually use a wrist strap on my devices so I can put it on my wrist while I'm using my phone in-case it slips and falls over the balcony or on the floor when I'm smoking with the other hand.
D8LOM said:
Hello Ladies and Gents,
Does anyone know how/where to insert the strap in the MDA Compact IV?
I usually use a wrist strap on my devices so I can put it on my wrist while I'm using my phone in-case it slips and falls over the balcony or on the floor when I'm smoking with the other hand.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's very simple. Remove the back cover; at the bottom (with the screen facing down) to the right of the mini-usb port you have a small hole. That's not the microphone. The microphone is the smaller, rounder hole to the left of the mini-usb port. If you insert the lanyard (or thin strap) into the orifice to the right handside, it'll come out on the small slit inside the back cover. Hook the lanyard onto the slit and replace the back cover.
Thanks but the strap I've got does not go through that hole, I'm going to have to buy another wrist strap.
aiwama said:
It's very simple. Remove the back cover; at the bottom (with the screen facing down) to the right of the mini-usb port you have a small hole. That's not the microphone. The microphone is the smaller, rounder hole to the left of the mini-usb port. If you insert the lanyard (or thin strap) into the orifice to the right handside, it'll come out on the small slit inside the back cover. Hook the lanyard onto the slit and replace the back cover. You can also see page 30 of the "Getting Started" pdf booklet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That leads me to my second question...
Does anyone know of a good wrist strap?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=475528
I use one for a Wii controller, hehe, its kind of nice, but I wish it was black instead of white
So I decided to give this a teardown. First, I must say that I am impressed with the build quality of this device. This thing was not exactly the easiest in the world to take apart. The internals are all very solid, but there are surprisingly few "guts" inside this thing.
All images posted here will be smaller in size, but you can click the image to be taken to a larger image
First we'll start out with some software screenshots.
Product key is blanked out (sorry folks, not showing you that)
Quadrant Info
SetCPU CPU Info
SetCPU RAM Info
HARDWARE INSIDES!
Full System
Back Plate
Back of the screen
Screen Model?
Back USB Port
Back Board
Power Button (I like the new power button setup)
Power Button in place
Webcam
Speaker
Antenna
Volume Rocker (Notice that it is screwed in so it holds in place very well)
Metal Plate off the front of the board
Back of the board (plate off)
Close-up of RAM
Back of board components
(Same thing is posted over at the ArchosFans Forum).
Sorry that this really isn't Development, but there is no General G9 section.
thanks
i write a news on JBMM http://www.jbmm.fr/?p=25458
Thanks for posting this. Kind of strange that the antenna sits at the bottom.
Cooool...
Hey Harfainx,
amazing pics... you know i am a hardware freak
Excellent!
By looking at the components, there's no big surprise, pretty straight design.
Touchscreen manufacturer did not change...
I wonder about this:
http://www.pixcir.com.cn/english/products.asp?Action=Detail&ID=68
So it seems, it's still two-point multitouch.
Thanks a lot for posting this!!!
Regards,
scholbert
Park82 said:
Thanks for posting this. Kind of strange that the antenna sits at the bottom.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the confusion, the antenna is at the top-right of the device when it's put together.
In the pictures, I have the device opened up like a book. It's face down in this order in the first hardware picture:
Top-Back
Bottom-Back
Bottom-Front
Top-Front
So the bottom of the picture is the top of the front of the device.
ahh no my bad. I wonder where they managed to fit in the HDD for the 250GB model. Did you see the storage chip? or did I miss it
4 point touch, 2 true
scholbert said:
Touchscreen manufacturer did not change...
I wonder about this:
http://www.pixcir.com.cn/english/products.asp?Action=Detail&ID=68
So it seems, it's still two-point multitouch.
Thanks a lot for posting this!!!
Regards,
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems to be 4 point with 2 true touch points?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-YXq-jlOwOU
USB Port
The back USB Port behind the cover is coming out on my 80G9 when unplugging a cable f.e. is this correct? It moves 1cm from its normal position.
Cause on your pics I didnt saw that the USB Port is mounted on a sledge plate.
Or wasnt this visible to me.
It might be correct cause the back USB Port is connected to the main board with a cable ...
snowman7782 said:
The back USB Port behind the cover is coming out on my 80G9 when unplugging a cable f.e. is this correct? It moves 1cm from its normal position.
Cause on your pics I didnt saw that the USB Port is mounted on a sledge plate.
Or wasnt this visible to me.
It might be correct cause the back USB Port is connected to the main board with a cable ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes the USB is meant to move out slightly. The purpose is for the 3G dongle.
That Elpida chip is RAM and has CPU under it.
Which one of the ribbon cables carries the touch screen data? I have a non-responsive screen, Thanks.
Tweakurr said:
Which one of the ribbon cables carries the touch screen data? I have a non-responsive screen, Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The long white one. The brown is to LCD matrix.
The matrix and the touchscreen look as a single unit, however they can be separated. Remove the metal shield at the motherboard side, all additional boards (antennas etc.), and metal clamps on the short sides of of the panel. It appears as a single unit in a metal frame. Actually there is one frame attached to the front panel and touchscreen, and the other embracing the matrix. The latter frame is fixed within the former one with small metal clamps/holes on them. Just release them with a small screwdriver. Be careful not to leave your greasy fingerprints on the matrix - as for any optics, the more you try to clean it afterwards, the more you pollute it.
Proud to say that I broke my touchscreen and left the matrix fully operational. And found a man here in Moscow with exactly the opposite damage. And managed to assemble a single device out of the two. And it works! And no unrecognized spare parts left! And now I have a spare MB (with dead modem port, however) for Linux exercises, and a spare set of batteries - which seems to be quite useful in the future.
Is the screen completely dead? In my case, the crack was not across the whole glass, and the very edge of the screen (about 15% wide) remained operational. Thus I managed to rotate it so that it could be unlocked, and then use a USB mouse to set off the screen lock for the future. Once unlocked, it could be operaterd with a mouse instead of the TS.
iourine said:
The long white one. The brown is to LCD matrix.
The matrix and the touchscreen look as a single unit, however they can be separated. Remove the metal shield at the motherboard side, all additional boards (antennas etc.), and metal clamps on the short sides of of the panel. It appears as a single unit in a metal frame. Actually there is one frame attached to the front panel and touchscreen, and the other embracing the matrix. The latter frame is fixed within the former one with small metal clamps/holes on them. Just release them with a small screwdriver. Be careful not to leave your greasy fingerprints on the matrix - as for any optics, the more you try to clean it afterwards, the more you pollute it.
Proud to say that I broke my touchscreen and left the matrix fully operational. And found a man here in Moscow with exactly the opposite damage. And managed to assemble a single device out of the two. And it works! And no unrecognized spare parts left! And now I have a spare MB (with dead modem port, however) for Linux exercises, and a spare set of batteries - which seems to be quite useful in the future.
Is the screen completely dead? In my case, the crack was not across the whole glass, and the very edge of the screen (about 15% wide) remained operational. Thus I managed to rotate it so that it could be unlocked, and then use a USB mouse to set off the screen lock for the future. Once unlocked, it could be operaterd with a mouse instead of the TS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks very much for the reply. Sorry for the delay been on vacation and doing house remodeling. I will compare the cables tonight. The display is perfectly fine except for the touch sense. Just want to make sure the problem lies in the display panel.
Tweakurr said:
Thanks very much for the reply. Sorry for the delay been on vacation and doing house remodeling. I will compare the cables tonight. The display is perfectly fine except for the touch sense. Just want to make sure the problem lies in the display panel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd better check the cables and connectors only. If the trouble is in the touchscreen itself, or in its controller board (attached to the bottom side and bent around the LCD matrix - do not tear it off!), then surely you won't fix it at home. Hardly you will be able to replace the controller board alone, too. The only chance is to find another broken device for parts, as I did.
Thanks for the teardown pics, they are very interesting.
I was thinking if it would be possible to exchange the speaker to some better speaker.
Is this possible, did anyone perhaps already exchange the speaker?
wondering if there a dissambely tutorial on how to change xperia v lcd screen, just ask anyway, in case anything happen to my phone..
I've done this a couple of times and it's fairly easy. Remove the back cover and 6 screws, Remove the rear plastiic case and unplug the three ribbon cables. Heat the front screen and prise off and remove.
atipene said:
I've done this a couple of times and it's fairly easy. Remove the back cover and 6 screws, Remove the rear plastiic case and unplug the three ribbon cables. Heat the front screen and prise off and remove.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've heard that the phone isn't waterproof anymore after having changed the LCD/Touch. Is it true? Do you use the 3m double sided tape to glue the new display to the phone?
Cheers!
atipene said:
I've done this a couple of times and it's fairly easy. Remove the back cover and 6 screws, Remove the rear plastiic case and unplug the three ribbon cables. Heat the front screen and prise off and remove.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have heard that phone is no more waterproof after replacing lcd
is it true.?
LCD replacement
It would depend on how clean the job you did was. I used the 3M double sided tape and made sure there were no gaps where water could get in. I also used silicone glue once the screen was installed to fill in the small gap between the screen and body to the phone. I would say it was waterproof again, bit didn't test it.
atipene said:
It would depend on how clean the job you did was. I used the 3M double sided tape and made sure there were no gaps where water could get in. I also used silicone glue once the screen was installed to fill in the small gap between the screen and body to the phone. I would say it was waterproof again, bit didn't test it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once u test it please inform me about it
i really want to know. . .
atipene said:
I've done this a couple of times and it's fairly easy. Remove the back cover and 6 screws, Remove the rear plastiic case and unplug the three ribbon cables. Heat the front screen and prise off and remove.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did you go about heating the front screen? Did you require any special tools to prise it off?
screen
I wont be testing it, I just have faith in doing a good job. You are sealing glass and a 5mm edge, can't be that hard or risky.
The screen was broken, so didn't need special tools or heat, just pullled the old one off.
Need to disassemble my Doogee Y6 (not Y6 Max) to replace the USB port.
If anybody has successfully removed the back, some brief instructions would be really appreciated.
Best wishes, Ron.
kiwironnie said:
Need to disassemble my Doogee Y6 (not Y6 Max) to replace the USB port.
If anybody has successfully removed the back, some brief instructions would be really appreciated.
Best wishes, Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll bet you can find a video on YouTube explaining how to disassemble your device.
I DO NOT PROVIDE HELP IN PM, KEEP IT IN THE THREADS WHERE EVERYONE CAN SHARE
Droidriven said:
I'll bet you can find a video on YouTube explaining how to disassemble your device.
I DO NOT PROVIDE HELP IN PM, KEEP IT IN THE THREADS WHERE EVERYONE CAN SHARE
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already search extensively, no luck so far. Prefer not to 'experiment' and wreck the thing!
kiwironnie said:
Need to disassemble my Doogee Y6 (not Y6 Max) to replace the USB port.
If anybody has successfully removed the back, some brief instructions would be really appreciated.
Best wishes, Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bro check YouTube very well... it there
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I can help you.
kiwironnie said:
Need to disassemble my Doogee Y6 (not Y6 Max) to replace the USB port.
If anybody has successfully removed the back, some brief instructions would be really appreciated.
Best wishes, Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did u fix it? I can help you. I opened the phone like 10+ times.
Hi, I have the same problem, I need to open the phone to replace the camera but did not manage to find anything on youtube. Would u please help me? Thanks
Monster 00 said:
Did u fix it? I can help you. I opened the phone like 10+ times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the later reply Monster. Thought this thread had gone dead!
If you've got some tips about how to open the case without destroying it that would be really helpful.
There's a few videos etc on opening Doogees around (Y6 Max etc) but none that I've found for the Y6, which is quite a different case.
Cheers, Ron
kiwironnie said:
Sorry for the later reply Monster. Thought this thread had gone dead!
If you've got some tips about how to open the case without destroying it that would be really helpful.
There's a few videos etc on opening Doogees around (Y6 Max etc) but none that I've found for the Y6, which is quite a different case.
Cheers, Ron
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So to start take a flat screwdriver. You may turn off the phone it's not necessary. Remove the sim tray. To open the phone read carefully. Don't try to remove the back metal plate, you're doing it all wrong. There is a plastic surround that meets with the glass. You need to insert your flat screwdriver in the corner(I prefer bottom right) of the plastic case/surround and the phone screen must be facing you. Now there is a super thin black plastic that separate the glass and the surround, you need to put your screwdriver between the thin black plastic and the surround (mine is gold). The plastic will wear a little bit but if you do it properly, you won't notice any scratch or paint damage. Put your screwdriver in and pull it apart trying to lift the back cover. Don't be scared but be careful, go until you hear a click then you may use your finger nail or the screwdriver and pass it all around the phone. You will hear many clicks. Don't be scared for the fingerprint sensor because it is stick to the phone. After having done that for the first time you will be able to open the phone like previous phones used to be, that is removing it like a removable back cover using your fingernails. I hope I could do a video. Tell me if you did not understand a thing because I can use my phone only on Saturday and Sunday( exams are near).
Monster 00 said:
So to start take a flat screwdriver. You may turn off the phone it's not necessary. Remove the sim tray. To open the phone read carefully. Don't try to remove the back metal plate, you're doing it all wrong. There is a plastic surround that meets with the glass. You need to insert your flat screwdriver in the corner(I prefer bottom right) of the plastic case/surround and the phone screen must be facing you. Now there is a super thin black plastic that separate the glass and the surround, you need to put your screwdriver between the thin black plastic and the surround (mine is gold). The plastic will wear a little bit but if you do it properly, you won't notice any scratch or paint damage. Put your screwdriver in and pull it apart trying to lift the back cover. Don't be scared but be careful, go until you hear a click then you may use your finger nail or the screwdriver and pass it all around the phone. You will hear many clicks. Don't be scared for the fingerprint sensor because it is stick to the phone. After having done that for the first time you will be able to open the phone like previous phones used to be, that is removing it like a removable back cover using your fingernails. I hope I could do a video. Tell me if you did not understand a thing because I can use my phone only on Saturday and Sunday( exams are near).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Brilliant! Thanks Monster. For me you provide a remarkably clear explanation. Used a very small, flat bladed jewellers screwdriver to lever the black plastic surround away until it clicked, just as you describe, then used an old credit card as a helper, to slide along the gap, to separate the metal back from the rest of the phone. Now just need to figure out how to actually make the repair!
Very best of luck with your exams. (so glad to be largely done with such things!)
Best wishes, Ron.
kiwironnie said:
Brilliant! Thanks Monster. For me you provide a remarkably clear explanation. Used a very small, flat bladed jewellers screwdriver to lever the black plastic surround away until it clicked, just as you describe, then used an old credit card as a helper, to slide along the gap, to separate the metal back from the rest of the phone. Now just need to figure out how to actually make the repair!
Very best of luck with your exams. (so glad to be largely done with such things!)
Best wishes, Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was about to make a video to help you. I'm glad you succeeded to open the phone. Now tell me what do you need to repair.
Monster 00 said:
I was about to make a video to help you. I'm glad you succeeded to open the phone. Now tell me what do you need to repair.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A video would no doubt be tremendously helpful to others anyway.
The problem with the phone is the micro USB socket is stuffed. The plug is loose and difficult to get a connection, due to continual pushing on it by the USB cover flap on the flexible plastic case that came with the phone. Have cut the flap off but the damage has been done (warning to others!).
At first glance it looks like the circuit board will have to come out to have any reasonable chance of de-soldering the socket.
Cheers Ron.
kiwironnie said:
A video would no doubt be tremendously helpful to others anyway.
The problem with the phone is the micro USB socket is stuffed. The plug is loose and difficult to get a connection, due to continual pushing on it by the USB cover flap on the flexible plastic case that came with the phone. Have cut the flap off but the damage has been done (warning to others!).
At first glance it looks like the circuit board will have to come out to have any reasonable chance of de-soldering the socket.
Cheers Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would prefer replacing the charging board itself. Changing the USB connector seems difficult for me. I can do a teardown video but the problem is the camera. I only have a Samsung galaxy core to make video as I can't take the y6 itself to make a video. The galaxy core does not support focusing while filming and the videos turn out blurry.
Monster 00 said:
I would prefer replacing the charging board itself. Changing the USB connector seems difficult for me. I can do a teardown video but the problem is the camera. I only have a Samsung galaxy core to make video as I can't take the y6 itself to make a video. The galaxy core does not support focusing while filming and the videos turn out blurry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great advice, makes sense. I now see that it is a separate board and that there are several sellers of Doogee Y6 charging boards. So the plan now is to purchase and try to replace the board, perhaps also replacing the USB connector on the old board as a spare.
Do you know if the ribbon cable(s) have a lock, or does it just pull out? Although a video would have been great, some basic advice on removing the board could be a life saver.
kiwironnie said:
Great advice, makes sense. I now see that it is a separate board and that there are several sellers of Doogee Y6 charging boards. So the plan now is to purchase and try to replace the board, perhaps also replacing the USB connector on the old board as a spare.
Do you know if the ribbon cable(s) have a lock, or does it just pull out? Although a video would have been great, some basic advice on removing the board could be a life saver.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try my best to make a video as I can't do it in front of my parents and as I told you I can only get the phone Saturday and Sunday. Today is Sunday, I'll try my best to help you. If I can't make a video then I'll post the instructions here. I forgot if it has a lock or not.
Monster 00 said:
I'll try my best to make a video as I can't do it in front of my parents and as I told you I can only get the phone Saturday and Sunday. Today is Sunday, I'll try my best to help you. If I can't make a video then I'll post the instructions here. I forgot if it has a lock or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again Monster. The part's on order now now. So whatever you manage will be really appreciated. No rush as it's coming from China, at least a couple of weeks away. Cheers Ron.
kiwironnie said:
Thanks again Monster. The part's on order now now. So whatever you manage will be really appreciated. No rush as it's coming from China, at least a couple of weeks away. Cheers Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey I opened the phone and checked the flex cable. It has a lock hidden under some cover, cloth like material. I'm sorry it I won't be able to do a video because it is super blurry. Now that u know how to open the phone you have to unscrew 4 screws at the bottom. After that gently lift the plastic cover because you may damage the speaker and/or the vibrator. You will see the speaker is actually low quality. As for the charging board, it's pretty easy to remove. Once you remove the plastic cover open the lock by gentle lifting the flap and disconnect the cable. I think that you will need to remove the battery too because the cable is too short and maybe be tricky for you to remove it. You must be really carefully when removing the battery. Take a flat object( I used the same flat screwdriver) and try to lift the battery. Make sure not to puncture it. There's a lot of glue underneath. When you remove the battery then it will be easy to remove the cable. There is two clips holding the board in place and you will need to move one of them to take out the board. Mime is a bit damaged but it's OK. The plastic cover protects it. Don't hesistate to ask questions if you don't understand. Thanks.
Monster 00 said:
Hey I opened the phone and checked the flex cable. It has a lock hidden under some cover, cloth like material. I'm sorry it I won't be able to do a video because it is super blurry. Now that u know how to open the phone you have to unscrew 4 screws at the bottom. After that gently lift the plastic cover because you may damage the speaker and/or the vibrator. You will see the speaker is actually low quality. As for the charging board, it's pretty easy to remove. Once you remove the plastic cover open the lock by gentle lifting the flap and disconnect the cable. I think that you will need to remove the battery too because the cable is too short and maybe be tricky for you to remove it. You must be really carefully when removing the battery. Take a flat object( I used the same flat screwdriver) and try to lift the battery. Make sure not to puncture it. There's a lot of glue underneath. When you remove the battery then it will be easy to remove the cable. There is two clips holding the board in place and you will need to move one of them to take out the board. Mime is a bit damaged but it's OK. The plastic cover protects it. Don't hesistate to ask questions if you don't understand. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Brilliant, thanks again! No need for a video, as your explanation is very clear and should be obvious to others after they get the back off the phone. Having recently removed a glued battery from a Kindle, it was a hell of an arm wrestle! Hopefully it will be a bit easier with the Y6. I have a flat nylon spudger with a rounded edge, which should be able to lift the battery without puncturing it. Upgrading the speaker at the same time could be a useful hack, if a better one can be found that fits. Although don't know if the impedance is the same for most phone speakers.
Will post results here including any lessons learnt. Cheers Ron.
The replacement usb charge board arrived, purchased from this guy: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Origina...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Posting the url as the service was excellent. Very well packed in its own cardboard box and sent by registered post. So I would buy from him again, even if he is a little more expensive than some on AliExpress.
To fit the new board, the case was opened, as described above and the battery removed. To remove the battery, two screws need to be removed from a metal plate covering the battery connector. The battery ribbon cable connector can then be levered up with a small flat screwdriver blade. It's a effectively a plug with a push fit onto the connector so just pops off.
To remove the battery I used an old credit card, sliding it underneath at one edge of the battery, then gently pushing it forward to release the battery bit by bit, from it being glued to the base. This shouldn't need a lot of force and it is important to avoid snagging the ribbon cable that runs under the battery.
The black plastic cover that houses the speaker and covers the charging board was then removed by unscrewing 4 screws. On my phone one screw had a white plastic covering, into which a cross head jewellers screwdriver can be pushed to grip the screw. The charger board was then exposed and the two speaker wires and two wires from the vibrator were unsoldered using a fine tip iron. The plastic cover was then fully removed. The black rubber tape covering the ribbon cable connector was scraped away, the connector unlocked and the ribbon cable removed. The antenna connector attached to the charger board was then levered off using a small flat bladed screwdriver. The charger board itself was then pulled out. It is held in place by tiny plastic tabs on either side and was a bit of a fiddle to remove.
The old charger board has some Kapton or similar tape underneath, which the new board didn't have. So I applied some similar tape to the new board, but this may not be essential. The new board was then fitted back in, again a bit of a fiddle. I found the best way was was to insert the right hand side of the board first under its tab (looking at the inside of the phone from the charger end), with the board rotated slightly anti clockwise, then pushing the left hand side forward (rotating clockwise) and under the left hand tab so that it effectively clicks into place (not much of a click). The rest of assembly was the reverse of disassembly. Soldering the 4 wires (polarity is marked on the board), pushing the ribbon cable squarely into the connector and locking it. Nearly forgot to push the antenna connector back on!
Replaced the back and the new charge board worked perfectly. What a relief! Thanks again to Monster for getting me started. Cheers Ron.
Hello everyone,
I have every tool needed to fix any problems on any mobile phones. But after fixing my y6, I have thought that a T5S would be piece of cake. But it's not.
Any ideas if I can just remove the broken digitizer to attach the new one or is it glued to the LCD like all new Samsung models?
Hi guys,
has anyone of you tried changing the front glass without digitizer and display?
In disassembly videos I can only see people changing the whole thing.
Also, do you think I can manage to repair the front glas as well as the USB port with just an iron instead of a hot air blower (and the usual tools made of plastic)?
Thanks in advance!
kadofl said:
Hi guys,
has anyone of you tried changing the front glass without digitizer and display?
In disassembly videos I can only see people changing the whole thing.
Also, do you think I can manage to repair the front glas as well as the USB port with just an iron instead of a hot air blower (and the usual tools made of plastic)?
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't done the front glass on mine yet, but my understanding is that in general you're really better off replacing front glass as an entire unit with digitizer and display. An iron on pretty low through a cloth/towel might well work. It's not just glue that melts, it's a thin strip of rubber gasket material with adhesive (okay, maybe it's thick glue, but it looked pre-formed to me) holding the glass back cover on.
Heating probably helps a bit with softening the stuff, but after the first time you peel it up you won't really need to do that again. I'd recommend picking a corner (say, bottom left as you're looking at the back) and just plan on prying from there every time, so you only have one spot where the plastic gets marred.
Don't spend too much time heating, worry more about having a suction cup tool that you can lift with while you try to work a guitar pick or hobby knife or something in under the corner. Have at least two ready, so you can wedge one in, and work your way around without it just dropping back down on you. You'll probably tear the material a bit but that's okay, just spread it back out evenly around the edge on the glass before you put the cover back on. Also, you definitely should be using a case to make sure it doesn't just fall off in your pocket once you've opened it up a couple times.
USB cable replacement isn't awful, just time consuming. The biggest gotcha is to keep all three of the little gold clips on the plastic "mid frame" ring (that's the first thing you remove that requires screws after getting the back glass up) from fallling and getting lost.
You can PM me if you have any questions about this, I've replaced my USB cable/port assembly a couple times (first replacement was defective). And I'm about to attempt replacing the screen as a whole unit with glass & digitizer on my wife's Z2 Plus, so I'll let you know how that goes.