Database Develop

[Q] suggestions on a car mount

Can anyone suggest a not too expensive car mount that fits the tmo HD2? the windshield kind, not the vent kind.

NOt sure..but this is the best one!
http://www.proclipusa.com/home/home.aspx?afid=42&admkt=670ca577&gclid=CKTHtJipw6QCFUNM5Qod1Wf8iw

I found a perfect mount at compusa that is made for an iphone but works great on my HD2. can send part number if needed.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App

I use the Tetrax Xway. It requires a magnet on the back of the case. I initially thought it would be annoying but I positioned it in the very middle of the phone so the phone can spin on it. I can't tell you how much enjoyment being able to spin my phone has been. With a good twirl it can spin for 2 minutes 30 seconds. I really freaked people out when Inception was big as it seemed to never stop spinning like that totem.
But the actual mount attaches to the car's AC vent which is the perfect position. The center console just seems too far away. It can be just to the right of the steering wheel.
An additional benefit is with a neodymium magnet set I got from ThinkGeek I can mount the phone anywhere that's metal. I just take four of the little cylindrical magnets and form a square with them. The phone magnet fits quite well in the divet in the middle of them. I now have a phone mount on the hood of the oven to load recipes while I cook (or watch a movie). It's quite secure, and the magnet won't hurt the phone. Just keep anything with a hard drive away like an iPod.

An interesting possibility would be to buy a cheaper clip on cover from eBay (preferably black) then buy a cheap gps mount. Then glue the case onto the mount. Then you will have an adjustable $10-15 cheap car mount

i wonder if they would make one that fits hd2 that has an otterbox case on it

[Q] Picky case seeker

I'm looking for a specific case for my nook color. Sadly, so far, none of the ones I have been looking at fit the bill.
The needs are:
1. useable inside the case.
2. waterproof (under 10 meter depth, mostly to keep rain or accidental drops in the tub from killing it)inside the case
3. Able to take a drop of 4 feet and not damage the Nook Color
4. able to take the weight of a person accidentally sitting on it.
I'm not worried about charging or listening to headphones while it's in the case. But, so far, either I've found ones like the oberon ones, which fits the shock and structural needs but not water needs, or ones like the expensive thick ziplock bag, which does not provide much more than waterproofing.
Is it just nuts for me to want to protect and armor my e-reader to a point I can use it when waiting for dawn while goose hunting, or out camping?

What you are looking for is made by Plexicorp, based out of San Francisco. They make a variety of products using a patented transparent aluminum which was developed in 1986 by Dr Mark Nichols.

Oh ha ha. we all know Scotty gave the formula to him, two finger typing on an old mac.
Seriously, a metal backed cover and frame, with padding and waterproofing, and a transparent screen cover like the fancy thick ziplock bag would work. But, as I said, everything either has the drop/sit ruggedness and not the waterproofing, one has the waterproofing and not protection, and one has the protection and waterproofing, but you can't use it in the case.
it's beginning to appear like I'll have to break down and design one my own self, since none of the makers are filling my needs. you'd think with all the campers, hunters, fishers, beachgoers, pool gatherers, and even readers soaking in a bathtub, let alone drunk college students, someone would make SOMETHING like this.

sounds like you need to be more careful with your 250 dollar toy. go get a travel case lined with foam. water proof, shock proof, and idiot proof. after that put the travel case on a three foot leash and strap it to your neck. only hit the ground if your a midget.
http://www.amazon.com/Pelican-1300-Case-Camera-Yellow/dp/B00009XVKW
You will look real snazzy walking around with this.
or, I guess you can also infuse it with the power of all mighty Odin and hope that works. i think your asking for a little too much. hunters go outside to hunt. fishers go outside to fish. hikers go outside to hike. any of the above that would use a product like the nook would just use the ziplock bag style or a hardcore pelican case and protect the **** out of it. and not take it out of said case during the hurricane.
most outdoor people would just use this
http://www.amazon.com/Pelican-1050-Micro-Case-Blue/dp/B001CNNEXY
but i doubt you want to put that in your pocket at 3.1" thick. but even with that you want a flap to store **** in. if i were you i'd start praying.

Wow, I have to say, you've got me wondering what you're planning on doing with the Nook! I'm intrigued though, I've thought myself it would be nice to have a super rugged gadget. It looks like the Otterbox case is just going to help with impacts, etc. I did find this old thread which might help..
http://forum.xda-developers.com/archive/index.php/t-749995.html

Ok. the cases I'm seeing posted fall into category 3, has the sit proof, crush proof, waterproof, but not USEABLE inside the case.
let me show you what I am looking at. Of the premade factory cases:
Option 1- URL redacted because of silly posting rules, but the Trendy Digital waterguard waterproof case. Has the waterproofing needed, but does not provide decent enough protection otherwise.
Option 2- Oberon cover, replacing the plastic inserts with either sheet steel or aluminum plate. But, this is the opposite issue from Option 1. Not waterproof.
Option 3- One of the cases mentioned. But, doesn't allow the device to stay waterproofed when you want to use it.
What am I wanting to do with it? Well, I want to be able to take it hunting, to look up tides, help identify geese, or when it's dead slow, read a book. It's often in the rain, around lots of salt water, and can get dropped or stepped on if some geese swoop in and I need to hammer. Or, take it camping, and not worry about getting caught in the rain, dropping it, or falling on it trying to carry it about. Many of these cases have 2, even 3 parts that would work, but without the whole enchilada, it's not going to do what I need.
Edit: BTW, I've taken an ipod 5g video out for 2 seasons and it's still working. the NC is actually meant to be a replacement for it, as the battery is slowly dying.

I am using a Trident Aegis on my NC. I tried it out in a medium (7"x10") Coleman waterproof pouch and the touchscreen worked through the plastic.

My semi DIY car mount.

So lately I've been trying to figure out a way to get my tablet mounted at the optimum position for GPS usage without obstructing anything. In my van I have the Arkon seat bolt tablet mount, which is perfect because it keeps the tablet lower in the dash area so it's not blocking my view or baking in the sun, and it's also a solid mount point. I'd have no where else to mount it in the van aside from the window if it wasn't for this mount, and I absolutely don't like window mounting anything bigger than a cell phone. So in that instance, things work out great. Recently I put that Arkon mount in my car, which is a Hyundai Elantra. I thought since the distance from the seat bolt to the mount area would be less, I'd have more (if anything, too much) "neck" to work with. It turned out to be the opposite. My Elantra is stick shift, so when I had the tablet mounted in the most convenient spot that reached, I was all but punching the screen when I went to 3rd/5th gear. The only other alternative was to have it sitting over in the passenger area, which works for me but it adds as a huge inconvenience to any passengers in that seat since their left knee is where the tablet is. As a result I decided to put the Arkon seat bolt mount back in the van and work on something else for the car.
I have an empty space under my head unit for random storage, etc. I began to wonder if I could somehow utilize that space for incorporating a mount there. It would be the perfect height because it's higher up from the gear shift and it would definitely be optimum viewing for GPS usage. Originally I made the perfectly sized wooden block that had a slight slight slope to it so it would wedge itself in place. I then epoxy'd a BluRex Amazon case to it that I wasn't too happy with and was no longer using. This proved to be an awesome 10 minute mount, but it also gave me zero adjustability. I began to think was going to be important since last time we were on a road trip when the road I was on was going to be 3 hours long my wife watched a movie, so I knew I'd want a way to move it around for best viewing in multiple scenarios.
Here's two pictures from that build:
http://i.imgur.com/dsfQx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/guw86.jpg
I began to give it more thought. I knew that the empty space under my head unit was going to be the mount point, but I just had to figure out how. I searched through multiple mounts, particularly from Arkon. In the end I bought this mount on eBay for about 20 bucks. It came with a suction cup which I knew wouldn't work for my uses. My plan was to cut the arm off, drill a hole into a wooden block, then fill it with epoxy and shove the arm in. The block of wood in question would be a piece that I cut to perfectly fit the open slot under my deck with a slight slant to it, that way as I pushed it in, it wedged itself in place (much like the last mount)
When I got this mount from eBay I began to wonder if I even needed to cut the arm off. Fortunately the height of the suction cup base was ALMOST the height of the opening in my dash. I figured all I had to do was wedge that in place and I wouldn't have to do the whole sha-bang with the wooden block and epoxy. I ended up cutting off the suction cup since it was useless in my case. The bottom of the plastic suction cup area had some flat ridges, so I figured I'd use double sided tape instead of epoxy to adhere it to a flat piece of wood. The flat piece of wood was to bump the thickness up just enough to replace the need for that wooden wedge.
http://i.imgur.com/yHOLR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/l9mRO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/O4Gin.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/KFJad.jpg
In the last picture you can see that I flipped things around. Originally I had the arm facing downward, but when I had the tablet mounted, 5th gear was still a problem as the gear shift would nearly hit the tablet. I knew if I flipped it upside down the arm would be facing upward, giving me some height... so I re-did the tape and put it on the other side. Since I mounted it more to the right (to ensure there was a super low chance of the steering wheel ever obstructing view, even if I was leaning far to the left while driving) I sensed a small amount of uneven stability since there was nothing keeping the left side tight against the roof of the opening. A small wooden wedge later and we were golden.
http://i.imgur.com/t7v4P.jpg
I ended up painting that wooden piece black to blend it in a little bit. I also noticed while driving that some roads had a degree of ripple to them, which would cause the tablet to sway back and forth. It didn't obstruct my view-ability of the screen at all, but if I was in an area where the tablet was casting a glare from the screen it became more obvious. On a hunch I pulled out two quarters and slid them under the arm mount, which is where I thought I was seeing a degree of flexing. Surprisingly it helped quite a bit and that area no longer has any flex. Not bad.
http://i.imgur.com/gzcV0.jpg
Final product:
http://i.imgur.com/LoUZT.jpg
Hopefully those of you out there who are finding some tablet mounts are *almost* perfect but not a home run can utilize some sort of DIY ideas like I did to make it work. I now have a solid mount for both vehicles, so no more worries about where the tablet will sit, etc. No complaints there. :good:

Great mod! I too have a compartment like that when I replaced my factory double din to a single din radio. To compensate, I had to put in a CD holder type opening, much like your area. I just have slots for CD cases. In my case, it wouldn't work out too well because my opening is held by epoxy and because of the texas heat, loses it's adhesiveness big time and alas, too weak for N7.
I have since bought a Kropsson Aero, which can hold both my tablet and Sensation. I do wish someone made a mount that can fit like the Aero can. Oh well, sorry to detract, just wanted to give you some kudos in getting a mount that works for you! :good:

I'm curious on how the epoxy is failing you. Is it not gripping like it should? A little side story - I epoxy'd a cracked side skirt in my first car, and when I got tires one day the hydraulic lift bowed the sides out pretty dramatically. (this wasn't a body kit - just lower siding from the factory. Here's a picture of a car nearly identical to what I had). It took the weight of my car for 30 seconds on that lift before the pressure was enough that it broke the epoxy bond. We may not have Texas heat, but here in Pennsylvania we have some crazy cold winters and some pretty muggy summers... I would think the differentiation wouldn't be good for epoxy when it's outdoors and hitting rain/snow/mud/hot/cold throughout the years.
I'm curious if the surface you epoxy'd wasn't really that optimal for epoxy. I say that based on my own experience recently, as I thought for sure epoxy would bond to anything, and for the most part it does, but take a look back at the first pictures of the BluRex/wooden block mod I did. I epoxy'd those two things together. After I took it out of the car and didn't use it, I wanted to see if I could somehow separate the two. I figured if anything the epoxy would separate from the wood and the epoxy would have just stayed gripping to wood particles from the block. But it was the opposite - the epoxy let go of the semi rubberized BluRex case, pretty cleanly too. It took a good amount of force, don't get me wrong, but once done it was a pretty clean break. I'm basing this entirely on assumption as I don't know what you were bonding together, but I wanted to throw out those FYI's as part of my epoxy experience.
So, that Aero can widen itself enough for a Nexus 7? I Googled around and I keep seeing screenshots of it with iPhones and Galaxy 3's... not tablets. That's wild if it does. Does your's mount based on suction cup? Or did you do some sort of additional mod?

JaSauders said:
I'm curious on how the epoxy is failing you. Is it not gripping like it should? A little side story - I epoxy'd a cracked side skirt in my first car, and when I got tires one day the hydraulic lift bowed the sides out pretty dramatically. (this wasn't a body kit - just lower siding from the factory. Here's a picture of a car nearly identical to what I had). It took the weight of my car for 30 seconds on that lift before the pressure was enough that it broke the epoxy bond. We may not have Texas heat, but here in Pennsylvania we have some crazy cold winters and some pretty muggy summers... I would think the differentiation wouldn't be good for epoxy when it's outdoors and hitting rain/snow/mud/hot/cold throughout the years.
I'm curious if the surface you epoxy'd wasn't really that optimal for epoxy. I say that based on my own experience recently, as I thought for sure epoxy would bond to anything, and for the most part it does, but take a look back at the first pictures of the BluRex/wooden block mod I did. I epoxy'd those two things together. After I took it out of the car and didn't use it, I wanted to see if I could somehow separate the two. I figured if anything the epoxy would separate from the wood and the epoxy would have just stayed gripping to wood particles from the block. But it was the opposite - the epoxy let go of the semi rubberized BluRex case, pretty cleanly too. It took a good amount of force, don't get me wrong, but once done it was a pretty clean break. I'm basing this entirely on assumption as I don't know what you were bonding together, but I wanted to throw out those FYI's as part of my epoxy experience.
So, that Aero can widen itself enough for a Nexus 7? I Googled around and I keep seeing screenshots of it with iPhones and Galaxy 3's... not tablets. That's wild if it does. Does your's mount based on suction cup? Or did you do some sort of additional mod?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just got the Aero in actually. It doesn't fit the N7 with my Seidio Case installed. So it's a fail on my end. It fits my Sensation fine, but thats a given lol.
As for the surface areas, I think you are correct that maybe the surface I am trying to apoxy to (on the car) does not play well/adhere with the epoxy I put on. No biggie though. I wanted something off the dash anyways. I may just get the exogear/kropsson mounts eventually...
EDIT: semi DIY modding LOL...
Just getting back, regarding the Kropsson Aero. Because of the Seidio case making the N7 bigger than expected to fit in the Kropsson Aero, I decided to cut down the foam pads on the sides. Now the N7 fits! The said arms are maxed out, but I will try it in the car after work. I took pics, but my work computer is borking at the card reader. But I'll try to upload them at home if I have time ( I have a 4 yr old to contend with lol).

I did almost the same thing, except the empty space is above my stereo instead of below. I just drilled some holes in the top of it and fashioned a plastic mount that bolts in and connects to part of an Arkon mount. If I want to remove the mount, I can just unbolt the Arkon part from the part that's bolted to the double din kit and you barely notice the rest of it.

I did something similar with my GNex car dock so it wasn't on my window. I placed a adapter plate (see link below) so I could use the suction cup on some interior plastic below my stereo. It holds pretty snug, not sure if it would be enough to support a tablet though.
http://www.amazon.com/AP020-Adapter-Circular-Adhesive-Console/dp/B001DAT0XE/ref=pd_sim_cps_10

xxgoosexx said:
I did something similar with my GNex car dock so it wasn't on my window. I placed a adapter plate (see link below) so I could use the suction cup on some interior plastic below my stereo. It holds pretty snug, not sure if it would be enough to support a tablet though.
http://www.amazon.com/AP020-Adapter-Circular-Adhesive-Console/dp/B001DAT0XE/ref=pd_sim_cps_10
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have that same disk that came with my tomtom gps that I never used. But it works! I have it installed and holds the arkon mount fine without issues.

ydoucare said:
I did almost the same thing, except the empty space is above my stereo instead of below. I just drilled some holes in the top of it and fashioned a plastic mount that bolts in and connects to part of an Arkon mount. If I want to remove the mount, I can just unbolt the Arkon part from the part that's bolted to the double din kit and you barely notice the rest of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice! Do you have any pictures of the actual mounting point where the bolts are? I'm super curious how you accomplished this. :good:

JaSauders said:
Nice! Do you have any pictures of the actual mounting point where the bolts are? I'm super curious how you accomplished this. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't, I'll try to grab one and post it here.

Made My own GameKlip with 3 feet of Stainless steel wire

so i was staring at this GameKlip accessory and thought, I could probably make one myself. They sell for about $20 including shipping online. Why not save some $ since I had the material.
What I used:
1 piece of 3" long and 1/8" thick stainless steel wire ( I got from a welding shop )
some shrink tubing from an electronics store, to protect the mounting points on the controller.
lighter or hair drier to shrink the tubing.
2 pairs of pliers to bend the wire
1 Sharpie marker to mark my bending points.
Playstation 3 Sixaxis wireless bluetooth joystick.
you can design as you see fit, but i started by bending the wire in half like a big V
bent the curved part 1/4" down @ 180 degrees. this is my anchor point for the joystick. this part goes right between the thumb sticks at the back.
from there i went underneath the joystick, making small bends to follow the contours of the controller.
NOTE: this is where you slide small pieces of shrink tubing over the wire at any point you don't want scratches on your joystick. Keep adding more as you progress, if you make too many sharp bends, you wont be able to slide the tubing around the bends.
anyways from the bottom to the front the wire goes, again following the V shape and spreading towards the L1 and R 1 buttons.
from there I bent the wires up, again following the contours and adding shrink tubing. Every time i needed a bend, i marked the wire with the Sharpie first and eyeballed it. the great thing is if you mess up, just bend the wire back and try again.
After going to the top front of the joystick, i made mounting bends like the first one. now with two single wire ends instead. (see photo) went backwards a tad and curved back 180 deg foward again.
i bent the remaining wire into a smallish platform then back to the joystick again, aiming for the USB charging port for my final brace to hold the weight of the phone.
I finished off by joining the two loose ends at the bottom of the joystick again with the shrink tubing. Both ends in one piece of tubing.
now i need a cheapo eBay TPU rubber case to permanently glue/double side tape to the mounting platform.
In all it took me about an hour.
you can use a thicker gauge of wire to make the whole assembly stiffer, but that would be too hard to bend and possible damage your controller when putting it on or removing. I had to remove it many times during the build to test my bend angles and fit.
oh and if you're not feeling the MacGuyver-ness, buy a real one here: http://buy.thegameklip.com/

reserved

More pics without joystick

Nice work

thanks
on second thought, thicker,copper wire would be doable too, as you can easily solder the pieces any way you want, and its malleable enough to bend easily.
I thought about Aluminum Wire but its too soft and likely to come loose and make your hands all black from the oxidation. It would be light though
I may just tack weld a small sheet of metal to the platform part so i can stick a case on easier.
Maybe just punch some small holes in the TPU case and zip tie it to the frame....

Can we get a pic with the phone attached?

mr mystery said:
Can we get a pic with the phone attached?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He said in the OP that he needs to get a cheap case so he can adhere it to the mount.

Nice craftsmanship ^_^
Sent from my Kangadore 64

mr mystery said:
Can we get a pic with the phone attached?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Using an ultrathin 3mm case and double sided tape. I dont recommend this case for this job as its super hard to remove the phone from it.. A softer flexable TPU case is best.
Sorry for the bad photo, using my Nexus 7 for a camera blows.
The last 3 photos from my Note 1. Anyways the finished product. Enjoy.

What about modifing this car mount to clip in and out?
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

Dakota0206 said:
What about modifing this car mount to clip in and out?
View attachment 1572530
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
looks good but likely cost way more than its worth. may as well just spend the $20 for an original one. you'd still have to make a clip on part and bond it to that mount.

Good job buddy. And here I am, thinking about spending the $25 bucks to get this item n' all.

See this one

Such wow, reviving a very old thread.
My next target controller will be the Dualshock 3.

rooCASE Dual View Nexus Multi-Angle -- Oh, the smell!

*** Note added after -- please see post subsequent on 2/12/13
Just received the "Dual View Multi Angle (Black) Folio Case".
This is not the "Origami" case of similar name which is fake leather, but is supposedly real leather, and does feel like it (though there are good fakes out there so I can't tell).
Amazon Link to Case
The tablet fit very nicely, slides in and out easily but no slop in the fit. Cutouts for everything are in the right place (can't try the pogo to see if there's room on the sides but it looks adequate). Magnetic close and activates/sleeps the Nexus 10 as expected. The inside of the case is felt, and the carrier for the Nexus has some velcro on the back, so you can pull it off and turn 90 degrees to display in portrait mode, which is easy and sure looks a lot easier than the whole bending stuff that appears to happen in the origami version. Velcro is a decent compromise between too hard to pull off and too easy so it falls off (though the noise of changing it is a bit loud for an office; I'm not sure what would be a better alternative though).
Three angles from indentations in the cover, adequate to keep it from slipping. Nice texture. Funny smell but it's dissipating and I expect it will be gone in a day.
Overall very pleased with it.
Images taken with a mediocre cell camera but may give an idea of what it looks like with the nexus inside, the last just to show texture and stitching.

Re: rooCASE Dual View Nexus Multi-Angle
Looks good but i don't see any cut for pogo cable.
Envoyé depuis mon Nexus 10 avec Tapatalk

Re: rooCASE Dual View Nexus Multi-Angle
androme said:
Looks good but i don't see any cut for pogo cable.
Envoyé depuis mon Nexus 10 avec Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cut out is on the inside carrier for the tablet , but you are correct they did not put a cut out for it in the fold of the case. I had not noticed that. One would need to open the case to attach a pogo charger, or rotate the inner case 180 degrees.
To charge it while in use and standing in the landscape position, there is a bigger problem in that the connector would be on the bottom and would prevent a tablet from sitting flat. If you rotated 180 degrees ( which you can do) the Pogo charger attaches easily at the top but then the volume controls on the bottom edge are unreachable. It is positioned as though they planned the Pogo charger only while not in use, lying flat, or on a dock (and built in), not propped at an angle?

The smell
Incidentally, I think I need to comment on the smell again. It's now sat around open for about 20 hours, and it still has a strong smell. It is not a leather smell (which I find pleasant), but something sharp, like adhesive perhaps. Within 2' or so of it, I find it unpleasant. I was relaxing with it on my lap this morning and finally had to put it away, the smell was so unpleasant.
I hope it will dissipate, and I will say I am told I am more sensitive in that regard than most, but it is a darn shame they make a nice case and use something that just plain stinks. I was a skeptic on the guy with the smelly pogo plug, but now I'm a believer. Maybe some factory in Asia has people with no sense of smell and makes both.
I still expect it to go away, but it's going to spend its first few days at a few feet from my face.

Re: rooCASE Dual View Nexus Multi-Angle
I have this case and there is indeed no cut out for the pogo charger
It also has the same smell that op is complaining about
Its also quite thick but i think that offers good protection for the device
Sent from my SGH-I317M using xda app-developers app

The smell that won't go away
I've changed my mind about this, and am discarding it entirely.
After 3 days the case still reeked of glue or solvent. Worse, I took the Nexus out of it after 2 days, and found it now smelled as well. Fortunately some damp cloth scrubbing (quite a bit actually) fixed it, but the case seemed undiminished.
If I just left it sitting out for weeks would it have been OK? Perhaps. Who knows, and I'm not going to find out.
So (and please laugh, as I did while doing it) I decided to wash it. Done quickly in a sink with some detergent (as I fully expected washing something with cardboard inside to end badly), it came out better than I hoped, with the inner and outer cases only slightly crinkled.
And about 70% of the smell was gone, but it was still there after drying. Usable? Perhaps. actually the inner case (which I expected to be a disaster after washing) was pretty good, but the fold on the outer case now sits at about a 20 degree angle when it should be flat, giving it a tented look where the front case no longer aligns. So yes -- water ruins it. But it was already ruined in my opinion but the smell, so no loss.
It's a darn shame that the manufacturer uses such ingredients. It is generally a nice case, and one of the more expensive ones. A $9 case that reeked is more forgivable.
So I strongly recommend before buying you decide if you have a tolerance for strong smells.
PS. Someone will say "why didn't you send it back". Sorry, the time to repackage and return is not nearly worth the amount refunded. Most of these manufacturers can sell crap because they know most of us who pay $10 or $30 for something won't spend the time to return it. I certainly won't, but perhaps I can save someone else the trouble.

first hand knowledge
That case looks identical to the case i bought my Toshiba thrive two Christmas' ago. I don't recall the smell but i can remember it was a good case to have because its well made and when its on an angle (like pictured) its not flimsy or shaky. It fit perfectly in my book bag and when the leather case is fully closed i had no worries about the tablet being pressed on to hard from books or anything else in my bag.
The only flaw i remember is when the tablet has been inside the case for a while it was a little bit of a pain to get it out. It was so snug that you could rip the plastic cover from the leather around it or you could press on the front and back of the table to hard, but as long as you are careful and patient the tablet will come out with no problem. I'd say its a good idea to take the tablet in and out of the case so it will loosen up a little bit. I'm easy on my stuff so im not sure how much abuse it can take but hopefully not to many people will throw around a $500 tablet but hey some people just dont take care of their possessions.
Not 100% sure if i will get this one but considering the limited accessories for our Gnex this case is a really good buy for under $20
ebay link http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=ROOCASE+NEXUS+10&_sacat=0&_from=R40