. . . . .
Sounds like a hardware issue. In particular, it sounds like the phone's NAND flash memory may have been damaged or worn down, and has effectively become read-only. That would explain a lot of what you're seeing:
Reboots because the phone OS tries to change something, inexplicably fails, finds itself in a weird state, and crashes.
Settings get reverted because the phone can't actually write them to anything.
Can't flash or hard-reset because those things require writing to the phone's flash memory.
It sucks to say "you can fix this by spending money" but the new Lumia 5xx phones are very inexpensive and are vastly more powerful than the 520. Even the 4xx phones, if you live somewhere they're available, are in some ways an upgrade from the 520. The 6xx are an excellent deal if you want a slightly bigger device.
Related
just now (like 2 hours ago) my newly fixed PC bluescreened. (something about my network drivers (NVNRM.SYS)
I reboot, graphics card posts and..... reboot. (endless loop)
so, with computing coursework due in tomorrow i grab my hard drive and, with his permission slot it into my dad's computer (the only other one with sata). and turn it on.
Same result, his pc (which he runs a business with) is going through the same loop as mine, i try unpluging the hard drive, but it still does the same.
basically now i have no coursework for tomorrow, a broken PC, my dads business pc broken AND im gunna get it in the neck from my parents...
maybe ill see you in a few weeks when i get the netz back....
over and out.
Yep..
It's caused by the Nvidea hardware firewall chip in your mobo.. specifically nVidia Network Access Manager driver (if your get a bad call on nvnrm, then you definately have it install even if you didn't know.)
If you can boot in to safe mode either reinstall the software for your mobo chipset, and/or disable it.
It's very common (the nvidea chip doesn't and has NEVER worked properly from conception) and with vista here, things are even worse.
If you can't boot into safe mode you are SOL.
And the fact that it's happening even with an HDD transfer means that it's probably done something to your main disc sectors, which also happens.
On you dad's pc, remove the HDD, boot in safe and disable the nvidea chipset.. this might get it back.. on yours.. safe mode reinstall and reinsert.
Post back on your progress.
dude neither machine can even post (and yeh we had the network access manager on, it seemed quite good, untill i changed the frame size on my ethernet and it bluescreened...)
See if you can manually disable it using something like BartPE or a Knoppix livecd.
it wont post, so no chance.
Can you go into the CMOS setup?
I mean, can you press "DEL" (or F1, ESC, or whatever works with your motherboard) to get into the setup? Then, check if anything is wrong, may be, reset to default values?
I think you cannot, because if I understood well, your computer doesn't even ends with the POST.
Then, you might have one out of two problems, you damaged your bios in some way (have you considered that you might have had a virus and that it damaged your bios?), bios is now saved in EEPROMS, normally actual ones are rewritten directly with nothing more than 5 volts, just by special commands (that allows you to upgrade your bios with nothing else than a program, that's something you can do!).
The other situation involves a defective "primary" component in the motherboard or attached to it and absolutely necessary to it's basic fuctions -according to your actual system setup-, so, POST can halt also for a defective lan card, video card, etc. Today's POSTs normally let you know what's wrong, back in the old days, post could be "heard" by a series of beeps (that you might still hear with your MoBo), also, back on those days, there where POST card readers, that "captured" the current post test code and showed it, then you could use a post table (those got wildly different from each other as technology evolved) to find out the problem.
Now, most computer components are so cheap and most people know "something" about computers, so "repairing" was performed almost by anyone.
I'm not old, neither young, but, I can give you two ways of going out of this situation (if you haven't do so yet).
Easier one:
go and grab yourself a couple od motherboards (one for you and one for your dad), change them, and you're done.
Harder one:
See if you can repair/reinstallate your bios, go the mother board's maker site, download whatever you need and try.
Hope it helps and good luck
Any help would be grateful on this one
I have just changed the heat sink on my 9300 wifi ITX motherboard GF9300-D-E.
It will not boot windows as it gets to the starting screen and stops. Then when i tried linux it will kernal panic and not boot that either.
I thought it was memory and removed one of the sticks. This is when things started to get strange. The bios screen did not fit my monitor as it should, has done previously, also there are strange flickering on this as well.
So i have tried it with both sticks in one stick [both tried]
Now I am a little stuck as to what it can be. I have also reset the bios to a default state to see if that was the problem and it was not.
There is also the issue that on some boots the bios will not fully load up.
If this is not an issue with the motherboard then i am sorry but i am a little stuck for the reason at the moment.
So anyone any ideas on this as I'm a little stuck. Any other info will be added if you think its necessary but i think its all covered.
Please help I miss my desktop, my ageing 5 yr laptop really does not cut it any more
have you tried safe mode? press f8 when windows is starting. if you get a blue screen post what the error message is.
Yeh the one time i got that far i had
Page_access_in_non_paged_area
That was also on a recovery boot of windows.
Next time nothing happened...
Also i get weird graphics glitches on the memory test from ubuntu. if that means anything to anyone
chris10230 said:
Yeh the one time i got that far i had
Page_access_in_non_paged_area
That was also on a recovery boot of windows.
Next time nothing happened...
Also i get weird graphics glitches on the memory test from ubuntu. if that means anything to anyone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i need the stop code. it goes like this 0x000000 and so on.
Yeh i would love to post that error message but i cannot get that far until it crashes
I got to the windows system recovery hit enter, then it stopped working
Now it wont even give me a video output! Really starting to think its hardware, but what hardware i do not know. Later im gonna try some RAM from my house mates pc and see if it does any better. If that doesn't work then i think i may be RMAing the motherboard as its the only other thing it can be!
If you have any more ideas joe then i would be welcome to hear them as i would rather not go down the RMA route...
Wish id noted down that bluescreen when it came up now
sounds like your video card. is your video card onboard or add in?
on board but i can disable if i have an external one, i can try this as well house mate has a spare will get back to you when i have tried that one as well.
If it is that then def an rma job. Also i would not be surprised it has been idling at 70/80 degrees C for about 8 months due to the passive cooler i had on it.
Hey,
I had this error, and a range of other ones, stuff like Memory_Error etc (can't remember codes), on my laptop earlier this year.
I tried memtextx86, and burnin, as I suspected it was an issue with ram - I also tried 3 different sets of rams, with different combinations of sticks. Nothing worked.
Unfortunatley, I took it back to the manufacturer and it was the motherboard had gone faulty.
I hope this isn't the case for you, but those 2 programs may be worth trying. Just as a note, neither reported any issues with the ram.
When in windows (vista at the time) I could not be in for more then 20mins without a system hang and crash. Although I did have video out.
Hope this helps
Stu
If the only thing you changed before it started to play up was the heat sink, its probably the cause.
If its turning on and then playing up after a period of time for no apparent reason it could be heat.
Is the heatsink on the right way? I put my amd stock heatsink on backwards when I installed it, didn't notice for 2 months, it wasn't touching the processor at all. Funny when I look back on it.
Did you put thermal paste on it? I once thought it would be a great idea to clean all of that gunk off my cpu, not so good in hindsight.
Hope it helps,
They say you learn from your mistakes, an I've broke more computers than I can count.
stu i shall try at the weekend one more exam and im free for another year!
and mercianary yeh i did clean the paste off, i did apply paste, but going back is a good point as i think there may be slight sizing issues with the heatsink i changed it for. As for temps, not real problem i think as i want from a passive heat sink to one with a fan so it must be cooler, that was the idea anyway.
It was idling at 45-55 if it did anything that needed the whole chip, its a 3ghz core2duo it hit 65 easy and it starts to underclock at 70 so i wanted it to be cooler so i could use all the power all of the time! In hindsight a bad idea.
Also on the grounds of the stock cooler that is broken as it kinda got stuck on the motherboard when i put it on one of the clips went straight through and jammed....
anyway everyone who has replied thanks i will come back when i have done some testing.
Just got a brand new ativ s with a non-working rear camera. Details
OS version 8.0.10517.150
firmware: 2424.13.11.2
hardware 15.15.1.0
radio soft 2424.13.9.1
radio hard 0.0.0.800
bootloader 13.08.14.16
chip soc 1.5.32
3rd party apps don't work, hard reset did nothing. No mSD card inserted, with or no sim.
What should I do with it? Is there any ROM, firmware or other stuff to flash in order to make it work? Should I take it to warranty and get a new one, which will also probably stop working pretty soon? Should I get a full refund? Or should I wait for another update, maybe wp8.1 and hopefully this is a software bug, not a faulty hardware?
Why would you assume a warranty replacement would also be defective? That's... um... I do not understand the thought process which would produce that belief. The fact that third-party apps and hard-reset didn't fix it pretty clearly indicates a hardware problem. The fact that people aren't constantly complaining about this issue (anecdotally, I have had *no* trouble with my phone's camera) suggests that it's a pretty rare problem. In what way is a warranty replacement not the obvious answer?
Because every piece of hardware that I bought and has failed in the first 24 hours came from a bad batch. One time I even got 3 brand new hard disks fail in a row. The 4th one lasted 1 year.
Just in case anybody is able to help out:
My SAMSUNG SGH-T899M (retail-configuration factory-unlocked ATIV S, originally branded for Telus Mobility in Canada), which ran the last build of WP8.0 (it failed to upgrade to 8.1 the times I tried), has apparently stopped working (possibly for good). In the middle of normal operation (listening to music while checking my email), the phone (and music) just stopped, screen went completely black, etc. Power button had no effect on tap or a normal power-on two-second press. My first thought was that the battery had somehow come loose or stopped working - its capacity had dropped alarmingly over the last few months - but that was not the case and plugging the phone in didn't help either. I do get a vibration (like the phone booting) if I press and hold the power button long enough, but only after I release it (which is odd).
Plugging the phone into my PC revealed that it now reports itself as a "Qualcomm HS-USB QDLoader 9008", for which Windows happily downloaded and installed a driver (so it's set as COM12). I don't know how to take advantage of this, though, or if it's even possible. The screen has never come on again since the phone died; I get no icons or text.
My most hopeful outcome would be to get the phone working again by somehow repairing whatever went wrong. In addition to being my day-to-day phone, it also is one of my hacking and testing devices. I was planning to upgrade to a new phone for day-to-day use but would like to be able to keep the ATIV S around as a development target and research aid.
The next best outcome would be getting my data off the phone. There's only a little on there that's truly irreplaceable, and none of that is terribly important, but I would like to get it back if at all possible. I had the standard backup features enabled, but they don't cover everything.
Anyhow, I'd appreciate any help people can provide. I've done a little bit of research and it sounds like this kind of failure has been known to happen to Samsung Android phones before (same Qualcomm USB device and everything), and most of the stories are not encouraging. Still, I figured it would be worthwhile to ask. I know almost nothing about this side of phone hacking; if there's a tool I can use to access the device and possibly fix it, or if there's a repairable hardware fault that causes this, that would be great!
Thank you.
FYI: I already posted the same thing on r/GooglePixel, it can be found here:
- Sometimes on startup the phone displays that System UI isn't responding, and at other times System UI actually stops, showing no status bar and a black homescreen background. The phone proceeds to soft-restart and the problem persists. This happens even after I factory reset the phone, either through settings or through recovery mode. I tried re-installing the OTA update using ADB and a .zip file from here.
- Sound isn't working, neither the earpiece nor the bottom-firing are making any noise.
- When resetting the phone in recovery mode, I noticed this message:
E:can't send spi message try again
yet the reset supposedly happens without problems. I suspect this to be a security thing and this could be a main cause of my issues.
- I bought this phone as a spares and repairs item for cheap, that might be a dead giveaway to how screwed up it is
- It's on Android 12, the November 2021 update to be specific.
- Boot time in general is long considering the age of the phone
My main worry as of now is whether this is a software issue or a hardware issue. It would be great if this can be fixed through software like downgrading the OS perhaps.Sorry if this post is a bit long, I just wanted to document it as well as possible for anyone who is in a similar situation.
HELP.
Update:
Turns out that even flashing a full image instead of OTA doesn't solve the issue. I tried Android 10, 11 and 12 and used both manually downloading the image and flashing it through my computer's terminal, and using the Android Flash Tool online.One thing that did kinda help is changing the wallpaper from the stock live pixel 4 one. That removed the "SystemUI isn't responding" message. But the bootloop still occurs after I put the phone to sleep.
Sounds like a mobo failure... sorry.
A custom rom might bypass the area of damage... or not.
With the millions of semiconductor junctions alone it never ceases to amaze me these devices are as reliable as they are.
blackhawk said:
Sounds like a mobo failure... sorry.
A custom rom might bypass the area of damage... or not.
With the millions of semiconductor junctions alone it never ceases to amaze me these devices are as reliable as they are.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Guess this phone might be completely screwed up after all...
ukasa said:
Guess this phone might be completely screwed up after all...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Take a look inside. Make sure the battery has enough capacity to meet power requirements.
Depending on the phone sometimes a failed (or wrong part) C port PCB can cause bizarre behavior.
Look for bad contacts on the ribbon cable connectors, solder cracks, etc.
-Gently- flex the mobo, chipsets while booted to see if you can provoke it. A pencil eraser works well.
Unfortunately the BGA chipsets solder joints are impossible to inspect, use care flexing near them!
Look for mistakes from previous repairs.
Make sure all ground pathways are good, some devices use unconventional methods like the frame rail or even a slightly longer through screw.