I needed a new charging method after metal band replacement.
Here is the band:
http://amzn.to/1P1YK8s
And this is the stand:
http://amzn.to/1P1Z5YA
(Mine is black, but there's no pics)
I simply bent up a beer bottle cap, wedged it into the hole, and added a dab of hot glue. Pressed the charging disk and the cap together (I like this better than the plastic cap as the magnetic pull from the disk works on the bottom too), and you're done.
Total cost, minus my steel band, $5.99. I'm very happy with it and putting it on and off the charger is very easy.
Love the idea, original charger is just too light, whenever taking watch off it wants to come with it.
I just use Blutac to hold charger to the stand - works for me.
not your idea though, is it. The guy who did the original Spigen stand of what this is a clone of was first.
has anyone used this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Rep...TF8&qid=1512066968&sr=1-2&keywords=W150+stand
Related
Do I get the award for the simplest mount?
Basically what I've done here is take the self-adhesive metal plate tomtom supply for securing their gps 'mice' to the car. It holds my Advantage just beautifully. I thought it might swing around a bit on its axis because the plate is so small but if you sit the end of the advantage that has two magnets (either side of the keyboard connector) it seems to hold in place pretty rigidly. I've tried a few twists and turns as well as emergency stops and not lost it yet. It might be the case that the screen would flop off the keyboard at a very rapid deceleration but it hasn't happened yet. I leave the cover on for convenience and to cushion its fall if that does happen.
So far it seems pretty secure but use at your own risk.
Cost approx GBP£5 (USD$10) plus tax, postage etc and ultimate convenience. No sucker bases, swing arms etc and it sits right where its needed for power etc.
I had mine left over from a previous tomtom installation but similar plates are apparently still available as spares e.g. from here.
I'm not sure mine is magnetic, by the way, it may just be metal.
The same I thought...but I sold TomTom gps years ago...
inframan said:
Do I get the award for the simplest mount?
Basically what I've done here is take the self-adhesive metal plate tomtom supply for securing their gps 'mice' to the car. It holds my Advantage just beautifully. I thought it might swing around a bit on its axis because the plate is so small but if you sit the end of the advantage that has two magnets (either side of the keyboard connector) it seems to hold in place pretty rigidly. I've tried a few twists and turns as well as emergency stops and not lost it yet. It might be the case that the screen would flop off the keyboard at a very rapid deceleration but it hasn't happened yet. I leave the cover on for convenience and to cushion its fall if that does happen.
So far it seems pretty secure but use at your own risk.
Cost approx GBP£5 (USD$10) plus tax, postage etc and ultimate convenience. No sucker bases, swing arms etc and it sits right where its needed for power etc.
I had mine left over from a previous tomtom installation but similar plates are apparently still available as spares e.g. from here.
I'm not sure mine is magnetic, by the way, it may just be metal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great idea. So in theory, any magnetic adhesive strip should serve in the car. Hmmm....
Maybe these
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Magnetic-Stri...yZ123866QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Or cheaper ones!
inframan said:
Do I get the award for the simplest mount?
Basically what I've done here is take the self-adhesive metal plate tomtom supply for securing their gps 'mice' to the car. It holds my Advantage just beautifully. I thought it might swing around a bit on its axis because the plate is so small but if you sit the end of the advantage that has two magnets (either side of the keyboard connector) it seems to hold in place pretty rigidly. I've tried a few twists and turns as well as emergency stops and not lost it yet. It might be the case that the screen would flop off the keyboard at a very rapid deceleration but it hasn't happened yet. I leave the cover on for convenience and to cushion its fall if that does happen.
So far it seems pretty secure but use at your own risk.
Cost approx GBP£5 (USD$10) plus tax, postage etc and ultimate convenience. No sucker bases, swing arms etc and it sits right where its needed for power etc.
I had mine left over from a previous tomtom installation but similar plates are apparently still available as spares e.g. from here.
I'm not sure mine is magnetic, by the way, it may just be metal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is great! Can't believe I didn't think of it. DUH! Great job on reporting this.
I'm thinking of going to the hardware store and getting a small L shaped metal "plate" and put velcro on the back of it. Should hold things nicely.
Like the way you kept the case on it. I would have done exactly the same thing. Not only does it help but I would be too lazy to remove it all the time when I got into my vehicle.
magnetic adhesive strip
Actually I tried magnetic adhesive strip, but it is quite weak ... Found out a normal metal ruler is better magnetic adhesive, as the keyboard is quite a strong magnet
@topic
Its really a good idea... I might try it...
Im using this one
it's fantastic and very solid
never being happy with what is already made..i decided to modify my accesories so they fit my needs.
keyboard: took a chance on this one..wasn't sure if it worked with hd2 bluetooth stack but it worked right out of the box (press a button and connect it to the phone..that easy). and it's actually great..the keys are very clicky with good depth despite the really tiny size (as big as the hd2). it comes with an optional stand and a case. and btw..it's cheaper than other keyboards...around 50$ and it's designed in canada..actually made in china..but still..
the headphones..this project has already been done before..but i used the great headphones from my old omnia phone..really good fit..deep base..buttons and mic still work after i soldered the wires inside it
and for the case ..this was the biggest pain in the a..; this case made by melko protects really well the hd2 by covering all the edges without covering any part of the screen. however it has design flaw..i had to chop of the top of the back part..(see photos) so the "hook" that grips over the phone (there is no magnet etc) can go all the way back. if not..the front part of the case would stay a bit open..dumb.
the second modification is that i "transplanted" the the clip from an old cellet case to the back of the case (glued it under the leather and sewed it through the plastic of the case with a nylon double wire..extra safety..you know. and ofcourse i had to buy the new metal clip that works with any cellet case. only downside is that i removed the zagg shield from the back and side. total cost for the case and new clip..about 30$..plus a few good hours of work.
oh..and the case doubles as a reasonably solid stand
so what do you guys think?
one last pic
mikgangal said:
one last pic
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this is still big keyboard have a look here ..
http://www.chinavasion.com/product_info.php/pName/mini-bluetooth-keyboard-for-smartphones/
yup..u're right..it's smaller..but i don't see myself actually typing a text on that.
on the one i got..i can type with full speed
Wow. That keyboard is huge. I think I'd rather pull out my netbook...
wow all looks good to me!
how did u solder the headphones? i would like to try it too!
wow all looks good to me!
how did u solder the headphones? i would like to try it too!
actually this project has been done b4
in short..you pop open the buttons (with your nail). gently you pull out the circuit board from the case and you give yourself some loose. you clean up the white stuff around the connections..unsolder the old headphones and then clean up the extra solder so that you can see the holes.
IMPORTANT the wires of the headphones you wanna add have to be cleaned either with heat from the soldering iron or with aspirin works best i believe (put the wire over the aspirin..heat it up..and as it melts you 'wash' the wires in the aspirin really well..carefull not to inhale !)
this will help uncoat the wire from the protective plastic film. then just solder them to the circuit board...use some epoxy over the connections for extra strength..put everything back togather...and voila
Modify Leo HTC Headset to In-Ear Headphones
I picked up this color changing USB hub from Radio Shack for $5 and it has a storage area that fits an HD2 perfectly.
I can't post a link so just google "Radio shack color changing 4 port hub" and you'll find it.
After looking at the nice fit I thought it would be easy to put a usb cable in the bottom of the compartment, so I could use it as a docking/charging station.
It's only held together by one screw in the storage compartment and then a couple pieces of double stick tape, so it was easy to open up. After taking it apart I held the phone next to it and marked where the USB port on the phone was using the dry marker that came with it. It had to be placed in the front corner of the storage compartment because of the circuit board directly underneath that storage compartment.
After marking it out I used a dremel rotary tool to put a hole in it, but I think a drill bit would have worked just as well. Then I put the USB jack in the hole so that it stood about a half inch off the bottom of the storage compartment. I took a sharp knife and trimmed those ring like pieces of plastic on the back of the usb jack off so that it was possible to put a 90 degree bend in the cable to fit it in the hub. Then I also put a small hole in the back edge and ran the cable out and plugged it into the hub.
It fits well with the stock rubber cover on the phone, or no cover on your phone, but I don't think it would fit very well if your case was much bigger than the stock case.
The dry marker that comes with the hub doesn't fit in the hole any longer, and you can't reach the buttons on your phone, but the button problem could be fixed by having the jack stand 1" off the bottom instead of the 1/2" I used.
Great job!!
Cool! Could you please measure the opening dimensions? I'm wondering if my HD2 in Otterbox Defender might fit inside?
Nice, if only we could get them in Australia.
Thx outstanding mod/hack. On my way to rat shack today thanks to your brilliant idea
Sent from tin can with string.
Has anyone found the wireless charging accessories for this guy yet?
it's supposed to use the new wireless charging 'standard' so any pad with the same technology should work
e.g. from amazon, type in qi charger
http://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Qi-Enabled-Position-Inductive-Charger/dp/B0041RRORA/ref=pd_cp_e_1
Verizon sells the Wireless Charging Battery Cover.
I tried to paste the link but the Forum won't let me (not till after 8 posts anyways)...
Looks like the back cover is out of stock on Verizonwireless.com. Does anyone know or have heard of this cover working with a Palm Pre Touchstone? Thanks...
Well I got my wireless charging pad and back cover today. The back cover is twice as thick as the stock cover. I came from a Palm Pre so I have a bunch of touchstones. Unforunately, I can confirm that the revo wireless charing system is NOT compatible with the touchstone. The verizon charging pad seems to sense when the phone is near and turns on. The touchstone did not, so that is probably one of the problems. I measured the voltage from the back of the touchstone cover and it wasaround 5.1 Volts. I am hoping I can use the touchstone coil on the stock cover of my revo and wire the charging leads to the revo. The revo has 4 pins for charging but the touchstone only has two, so I need to find out how to wire this. i may have to go through the USB 5V connection. I love my touchstone car mount and I am really hoping to be able to use the touchstones for charging the Revo.
Wireless charging pad: http://www.verizonwireless.com/b2c/...ryDetails&archetypeId=12659&accessoryId=47605
Wireless charging battery cover: http://www.verizonwireless.com/b2c/...ryDetails&archetypeId=12644&accessoryId=47587
Also, gsxrpilot would you say the wireless charging it worth it? for the almost 100 bucks you spend on it? and does gsxrpilot mean you ride a gsxr street bike?
Well there is a deal this month where you get the back free with the pad, so $70 for both. I got a little more discount because I complained that the only reason I needed a new phone and wireless charger is because my Palm Pre stopped working. I would say that it is worth the convenience. Constantly plugging in the micro usb charger due to the low battery life gets old. Now if I can get my touchstones to work, it will really be worth it.
And yes I have a '92 GSXR-750 and love to fly RC Planes and Helis, hence gsxrpilot.
gsxrpilot said:
Well there is a deal this month where you get the back free with the pad, so $70 for both. I got a little more discount because I complained that the only reason I needed a new phone and wireless charger is because my Palm Pre stopped working. I would say that it is worth the convenience. Constantly plugging in the micro usb charger due to the low battery life gets old. Now if I can get my touchstones to work, it will really be worth it.
And yes I have a '92 GSXR-750 and love to fly RC Planes and Helis, hence gsxrpilot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I might have to get that then. Also, that's sick. My neighbor has a 20xx dsxr 750. They are a blast to ride.
Couple of gripes about this...
I bought the Wireless charging back for my Revo and it's not compatible with the Powermat that I already have, apparently the "qi" technology works differently than the induction that the Powermat uses. It IS compatible with the Energizer power mat which uses the same "qi" technology. but you're looking at the same price for either charging base.
Secondly, the wireless charging cover is twice as thick as the stock cover so any skins or cases you want to get for the phone will not fit. My silicon cover almost fits but buldges out on the sides.
I still think wireless charging is the way to go, just a heads up for those of you who are looking into this.
Well I got my touchstone to work with my Revo! I scraped the charging coil from the back of a palm pre cover (bought 2 for less than $5), then hot glued it on the back of my stock revo cover. I had to dremel 4 holes where the metal disks were and added 2 disks per hole since the revo is heavier than the pre and more disks help it stay on the touchstone better. I now have 4 little bumps on the back of my cover. I searched everywhere for the connector that would fit in the stock cover but couldn't find it. So I wound up using magnet wire and soldering directly to the charging tabs on the coil and the top of the connectors on the phone. Didn't have to use too much solder so I could remove the wires if I wanted to go back to the verizon charger. It is nice having the stock cover back, the verizon wireless cover was so much thicker.
gsxrpilot said:
Well I got my touchstone to work with my Revo! I scraped the charging coil from the back of a palm pre cover (bought 2 for less than $5), then hot glued it on the back of my stock revo cover. I had to dremel 4 holes where the metal disks were and added 2 disks per hole since the revo is heavier than the pre and more disks help it stay on the touchstone better. I now have 4 little bumps on the back of my cover. I searched everywhere for the connector that would fit in the stock cover but couldn't find it. So I wound up using magnet wire and soldering directly to the charging tabs on the coil and the top of the connectors on the phone. Didn't have to use too much solder so I could remove the wires if I wanted to go back to the verizon charger. It is nice having the stock cover back, the verizon wireless cover was so much thicker.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any way you could post a picture? I'm interested to see if that setup would work for my powermat.
OK,I think I attached the picture correctly. I did the following:
1. Remove the charging sticker and assembly from the back of the Palm Pre charging cover. Do not use the Pixi charging cover assembly, there is a ribbon in it that cannot be re-assembled after removal.
2. I took my dremel tool and routed some space off the inside back of the cover. The revolution cover is a bit thicker than the pre cover and I was concerned it might be too thick to allow the inductive power through.
3. I also routed some indentations in the back of the cover. (see Phone Back Image) I'm not sure if this was necessary either but I had really hoped I could mount the phone vertically on the touchstone in my car like the pre so i put a second set of metal disks behind the indentations. As it turned out, the revo is much heavier than the pre so this didn't work.
4. I glued the sticker and assembly to the back of the stock cover. First I tried crazy glue which didn't work that well so I wound up using hot glue.
5. Finally I soldered magnet wire from the palm charging tabs to the wireless charging tabs. Top tab to the top charging post (there are 4 of these posts, I only used two) and bottom to bottom. The top tab and post is ground, the bottom tab and post are +5V. (see Phone Inside 2 image)
6. I snapped the cover on (there is still a small gap which I haven't quite worked out yet but it works ok). Stick it on the touchstone and it says "wireless Charging" (which is actually annoying and I thought I had figured a way to remove this notification but it came back)
Now all of my touchstones work for charging and I am not sure I will ever go back to the verizon wireless charger.
gsxrpilot said:
OK,I think I attached the picture correctly. I did the following:
1. Remove the charging sticker and assembly from the back of the Palm Pre charging cover. Do not use the Pixi charging cover assembly, there is a ribbon in it that cannot be re-assembled after removal.
2. I took my dremel tool and routed some space off the inside back of the cover. The revolution cover is a bit thicker than the pre cover and I was concerned it might be too thick to allow the inductive power through.
3. I also routed some indentations in the back of the cover. (see Phone Back Image) I'm not sure if this was necessary either but I had really hoped I could mount the phone vertically on the touchstone in my car like the pre so i put a second set of metal disks behind the indentations. As it turned out, the revo is much heavier than the pre so this didn't work.
4. I glued the sticker and assembly to the back of the stock cover. First I tried crazy glue which didn't work that well so I wound up using hot glue.
5. Finally I soldered magnet wire from the palm charging tabs to the wireless charging tabs. Top tab to the top charging post (there are 4 of these posts, I only used two) and bottom to bottom. The top tab and post is ground, the bottom tab and post are +5V. (see Phone Inside 2 image)
6. I snapped the cover on (there is still a small gap which I haven't quite worked out yet but it works ok). Stick it on the touchstone and it says "wireless Charging" (which is actually annoying and I thought I had figured a way to remove this notification but it came back)
Now all of my touchstones work for charging and I am not sure I will ever go back to the verizon wireless charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
awesome stuff, I will definitely give this a shot and post results.
Sent from my VS910 4G using XDA App
nice hack.....looks like your method could work on most any accessory case
how long would it take to charge the revo?
Charging probably takes slightly longer than through the USB port. The phone can get a little warm too but I have never had a problem. It's really convenient in the car where I glued the touchstone to my center console. If you have ever tried to drive while plugging in the tiny usb cable you will know what I am speaking about.
I know this post is quite useless. I just wanted to vent out my frustration.
I just got off the phone with a B&N rep after 20 minutes of talking--because the rep kept beating around the bush and kept placing me on hold--and was told that I needed to callback on Monday to get the tracking no. for my 2nd--yup, this happened twice before--USB cable replacement. Yup, it broke again like the first one I got included with the NC--SIMPLY BECAUSE OF IT'S POOR QUALITY.
In generic micro USB cables, you would notice that most of them are made of rubber material, especially the one covering the tiny metal tip that you insert on the device's USB port, which makes them quite durable. Even if you bend it intentionally multiple times, the metal tip will not be affected that much. Only downside is, it doesn't fast charge the NC. In my experience, it takes a day and a half (about 36 hours) to be able to charge the NC fully. And yup, my NC is now turned off for a week (and counting).
The NC's stock USB cable however is made out of a gloss plastic material, probably to give way to the LED? light indicator? Downside is, it gets cracked/chipped off easily whether it was done unintentionally or not, because of the plastic material not being 'hard' enough, and that's where most NC owners like me are getting pissed off.
You have to be very careful whenever you charge the NC--you need to make sure that it's on a flat surface, not on a surface where it can sink itself say for example, a foam bed, so that the cable will not 'sink' with it in and put pressure on the metal tip, finally chipping off the plastic coating.
Do you guys know of any alternative that can fast-charge the NC like it's stock USB cable? Does anyone have the ability to modify the NC's stock USB cable to coat it with rubber or something to make it more durable?
I'm sure there are others who are experiencing these things. Hope we can gather around and start a discussion about getting a permanent fix. Maybe rally at a local B&N store or something, I dunno.
Well, a cheap and quick bit would be to wrap it with electrical tape. If you have an electronics store or Radio shack carrying it, there is also something called shrink tubing. this is a rubberish tube that when carefully heated with a heat gun (not a blow dryer) or a lighter, will shrink down around wires, or plastic.
But, I am rather annoyed with this serious design flaw as well. Would be nice if B&N either recalled these cables with a properly designed one, or get a 3rd party available to handle that.
I was thinking of reinforcing the plug end of the cable by encasing it in a big wad of epoxy putty.
epoxy putty usually cures to something a bit too brittle for what this really needs. As the OP said, the plastic on the plugs are really way too brittle for what it's meant for. other than those things, the other option I can think of is some of that latex dip sold in some hardware stores, or sex shops. wrap the metal bit in tape, then give it a few dips, let it cure, then carefully cut the tape off. instant rubberized plug. could even carefully cut an indicator window for the charge light.
heat shrink tubing sounds best. will try that. you can get it from home depot or lowes. get the multiple size package. it is really best to use a heat gun. if you dont know what your doing and use a lighter you will burn right through the heat shrink.
It sounds like you might be looking for Sugru. It hardens to a rubbery flexible consistency. There's also a how to floating around the web on making your own using caulk and ...baking soda? I think?
For that matter, a flexible clear caulk might do the trick.
I was thinking that RTV silicone (downside is long cure time) or maybe hot melt glue would be worth a try. Either one would be translucent enough to see the LED color. The Sugru looks interesting, although opaque like heat shrink tubing.
You could probably use something like Scotch Coat (more or less liquid electrical tape..) or plasti-dip perhaps?
*I'm still waiting on my NC to arrive. So, I'm not sure exactly which portion of the connector you're talking about. If it's the entire outside portion that is typically metal... this is normally a chasis ground which equalizes the chasis potential between the NC and whatever it's plugged into..., and really shouldn't be coated with anything
I ordered this off Amazon with the intent of fixing several things in my house. I was going to use the clear for the tip of the charger.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027JIEPU
I think the shame of it is that all they had to do was use a strain relief sleeve like one of there:
Using the shrink tubing-
1. make sure you get a size large enough to get around the connection end.
2. Measure out a length. you want at least from the bottom of the N light to about 1/2 inch past the nub where the cord goes into the connector.
3. Slip the tube into place
4. Using a heat gun or lighter, carefully shrink the tube into place (NOTE: with a lighter, keep the flame moving, don't let it linger too long or you'll melt something)
5. If the resulting reinforcement doesn't seem enough, feel free to add another layer or 2.
WHAT DOES THIS ACCOMPLISH?
Well, most of the failure pictures I have seen, as well as the failed cord of my own, it seems the plastic is too friable (meaning it cracks really easy) to handle the stresses put on it at that end. Most of the cracks and fractures take place below the N, towards the cable side of the connection.
By adding this, it not only adds a semi flexible reinforcement around where it likes to crack up, it also stiffens and immobilizes a stretch of the cable, relieving a little of the stress that can happen in that part.
While other things might do the trick, and even electrical tape could do, this tubing is about the best option I've seen so far.
Srilania said:
While other things might do the trick, and even electrical tape could do, this tubing is about the best option I've seen so far.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heat shrink tubing isn't a bad idea. I don't know how readily available it is in consumer stores and stuff... but I know I've used the Heat shrink tubing with the glue inside on quite a few connectors (higher end coaxial/heliax connectors tend to come with it). It's a bit thicker and more durable than typical heat shrink tubing, and the glue holds it solidly in place.
I used scotch tape. ugly, but it works.
Heat Shrink tubing shouldn't be too hard to find, most any electrical / hardware store should carry it, even Wal-mart will have it from time to time in the automotive section.
A better option may be plastidip. It gives a thick rubnery coating.
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
After having a Nook Color for less than 6 months, mine just broke this morning! I would do without the LED indicator for a durable rubber casing.
Imbroglio said:
I was thinking of reinforcing the plug end of the cable by encasing it in a big wad of epoxy putty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Epoxy works very well actually, but you need to put it on the inside, not the outside. Split open the plastic cover. Clean it up so it fits back together cleanly. Mix up a batch of translucent 5 Minute epoxy and completely fill the cavity with epoxy. Fit it back around the cable and secure it with a clip or clamp of your choice. A small binder clip works perfectly. After about 5 or ten minutes you can remove the clip and use an exacto knife to clean up the excess. Clamp it up again and
let it cure for 12 hours or so. Works well for me.
Triple wall heat shrink is just what you need. A heat gun (not a lighter, it won't work well) is the way to go. A hair dryer most likely won't have the heat needed.
I use the stuff in my home business and have tons of it...if you need some let me know!
I bent the male end that plugs into the nook unit... I Pressed the male end against a counter in my kitchen so it was bent back into place, put a few spots of super glue (the kind you get at the dollar store) and waited overnight for it to dry. good as new, no more wiggle or bend in my usb end.