I have the Galaxy Note 5 which has wireless charging. When I plug the phone into my car to use Android Auto the car's USB port only provides 500 milliamps of charging which is not enough to keep the phone charged during the use of Android Auto. Could I use a wireless charging pad in the car to increase the charging current or does the phone somehow turn off wireless charging capabilities when it senses it is receiving power through the USB port?
Are you turning off the screen my charges fine? Let me check the specs on my head unit.
I had the same issue, i used this: http://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Enhancer-Female-Charge-Extension/dp/B00NIGO4NM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
I plugged one side into the head unit, the other side into a quickcharge 2.0 charger I wired behind the dash, and then you just plug in your cable to the single output. It works great! Basically, it just boosts the charging while still connected to the head unit.
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I'm having problems with kaiser charging when using HSDPA and even slow connections like 3G and EDGE.
Problem is that it charges for about 20-30 minutes (connected to a powered 1Amp USB hub or even with AC charger), then charging light goes off and battery power starts to drop by about 5% every 20-30 minutes.
Have anyone tried 2Amp chargers? It seems like it may be the problem with kaiser itself, since it charges itself but then just stops and will not charge itself until I soft-reset it.
PS: it gets kinda warm, but I wouldn't call it hot. Dunno if its related to temperature.
Any ideas?
Am I the only one with this problem? If so, maybe I should return the phone and exchange it for a working unit?
No, I have the same problem here.
When I use my kaiser in the car (usually navigating) the orange charge light initially lights up, but after a short period goes out. When I disconect and connect the USB-cable, the light temporarily comes on again.
I am using a 1A car charger. I do notice the charger feels a bit hot when in use, so maybe the kaiser is drawing more power than allowed? I can imagine the charger overheating which causes the voltage to drop. Which probably causes the kaiser to stop using USB power. But this is all speculation.
I am planning to use a 5A voltage regulator to 'upgrade' the USB charger, and see if this solves the problem.
--After a bit more reading, I found some info about the kaiser detecting if it is connected to a charger or a USB host device, and regulating it's maximum charge power accordingly. So I will try a modified USB cable to let the kaiser know it can get 1000mA from the car charger.
It's not the USB charger. I have 2A and 3A Olympus Camera chargers that I modified to use as a USB charger. Also cheaper 1A AC chargers. I thought the Olympus chargers would be perfect, because they were high amperage, and built solidly. I had the same charge problems with the TyTn II, and an iPod Nano. They would either charge partially and then stop, or not charge right away, but the charge light would come on after awhile. But still only partially charge.
My guess is that the chargers that work may have a load added in, so that the switching regulator will turn on with any additional load from the device, and stay on. I never found any information on this, though.
What does work: The USB chargers made for any PDA phone. Apple iPod chargers. I bought an 800ma iPod charger (probably a clone). It's a small white cube, with a USB outlet, and interchangeable AC plugs. It charges the Nano, and the TyTn II OK. The Nano last for a week now, instead of 2 days. The TyTn II starts charging right away, and stays charging. So whatever the Apple USB chargers do, they do work.
A thought for the car is to get a car charger made for the iPod, and see if that may work.
To be more accurate, the iPod charger starts charging the TyTn II right away, and the charge light stays lit. I've not actually done a controlled test on it. Just charged for awhile, and verified that the charge light comes on right away, and stays on. Everything looks normal, though. I will try a more controlled test, and post the resutls.
please keep us posted. I've also contaced HTC support about this, I'm waiting the response. Once I found out I will post here.
Hopefully iys not a ksier limitation.
Test results.
Battery at
- 61%, Display off while charging
- 83% - after 70 mins of charging. Then stopped, as was going out.
Started again at:
- 88%, Display off
- 100% - after 60 mins. A little shorter, probably, as I missed when the charge light went green.
I believe the PDA will fast charge up to around 80%, and then slow charge for the remainder. That would explain why it takes 60 mins to charge from 88% to 100%.
So, the iPod charger works great for a PDA, and will start charging right away when it is connected, and it will charge to 100% full charge. It is not the PDA that is stopping the charging. It just has special requirements that only some chargers can handle, so you have to get either a charger built for a PDA, or something like the iPod charger.
So it works quite well as a general purpose charger for iPods, and for the TyTn II, and probably anything that uses a USB charger. It is small, with interchangeable AC plugs. A good travel/general purpose charger. I can bring just this, and different cables for different devices. Phone, MP3, etc.
It is labeled Input:100-240V, Output 5V 1A
Looks like:
Apple MA592LL/A iPod USB Power Adapter
Just as an aside, I have a lithium battery pack 2 7/8" x 2 1/8" x 1/2" thick. It is rated at 2400mAh, input 5V, through a built in retractable USB plug. Output is 5V 450mAh through a female USB plug. Just extend the USB male plug and plug into any USB source to charge it. It works quite well as a small portable battery pack to power/charge a PDA if using GPS steadily. It's flat, and easy to carry.
And it is quite cheap.
ttt123, thanks for your info. I guess I need to get an iPod charger then.
http://www.expansys-usa.com/d.aspx?i=148251
Charges both at same time.
Sweet. I may get one of these.
Do you know how much amps it's delivering? The Athena needs at least 2A to show any sign of being charged!!! I'm suspecting it's only delivering 500mA which is the max amount of amps a Jabra headset can take without frying itself. 500mA is just enough to light up the amber charging light on the Athena and nothing else.
sumtingwong said:
Do you know how much amps it's delivering? The Athena needs at least 2A to show any sign of being charged!!! I'm suspecting it's only delivering 500mA which is the max amount of amps a Jabra headset can take without frying itself. 500mA is just enough to light up the amber charging light on the Athena and nothing else.
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I always thought that a regular HTC charger provided 1A. Do you use a 2A charger?
According to Expansys and PP Techs this should at least give more than 500mA:
The majority of new devices are equipped with two different charging modes: a sync-n-charge mode through a computer USB port (slow charge) and a regular charge mode through an AC/DC adapter or any other charging accessory (fast charge). Those two charge settings require two completely different pinouts and are not compatible with each other.
In select devices, this incompatibility would mean that a sync-and-charge cable for your device, when connected to an AC/DC adapter or similarcharging accessories, will not be properly configured to charge your device.
Our new Lil Sync® Duo Adapter is the convenient solution to this common charging problem. Using our adapter will forces your Sprint PPC-6700 to use the most effective, “fast-charge” mode when plugged into AC/DC power. Additionally, there is a Jabra 8 pin companion port tailed onto the adapter. This allows you to conveniently charge a second accessory such as a Jabra headset simultaneously.
In some cases, your Sprint PPC-6700 will not charge from an AC/DC adapter or other charging accessory when the battery life is below 30 percent. Our Lil Sync® Duo Adapter will charge your Sprint PPC-6700 from a completely drained battery.
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Click to collapse
Looks like an interesting little accessory.
Yes. I am using a 2A charger both at home and in my car. The one I'm using is the TomTom USB Charger for Go/One/OneXL/XL. Attached are the pictures of the car charger. The home charger provides the same amp. If you're in the US, the car charger is sold at Target for $19.99. The car charger is bent at an angle but the home charger is not. If your car doesn't have bluetooth and you have to use the audio jack on your athena, then you'll need a mini USB angle adapter to reposition the cable upward. The mini USB angle adapter comes standard with the old Motorola Razr V3 so if you already have one of those phones, you don't have to buy a new adapter. Otherwise, the Motorola mini USB angle adapter is sold for a few bucks where Motorola phones are sold.
By "directly" I mean using regular USB data cable (most likely USB->Micro USB) and NOT special charge only cable that has data pin shortened to draw higher current.
The reason for this post is that I found that my new phone (Moto X) doesn't charge when connected directly via regular data USB cable even though charging indicator is on. When idle it still loses several %/ hour, when running Google maps - much more.
After Googling I found that if the phone is connected as USB media device it draws less power from USB and it may not be sufficient to charge phones with high capacity batteries. Workarounds include using charge-only USB cables that have data pins shorted, cigarette lighter chargers or AC charger if your car is equipped with AC socket (mine is, but what a pain to have to use it for this!).
Here is my situation on '11 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 430N (2 USB ports, Android phones are recognized as media device on both):
Old phone (Droid Incredible, 1300 mAh battery) charged fine when idle via regular data cable even though it was in media player mode. I haven't really used it when running Google Maps much so can't comment on that.
New phone (Moto X, 2200 mAh battery) doesn't charge via regular data cable (even though indicator shows phone charging). When idle it still loses several %/ hour, when running Google maps - much more. I tried 500 mA cigarette lighter charger and it charges it fine in idle, haven't tried while running Google Maps yet.
The USB power in my truck is provided by one of these:
http://daqstuff.com/400116_5volt_switching_power_supply.htm
The only mod I made was to short pins 2 and 3 on the USB ports, which is required for full current charging with a Nexus 7. Dunno if the Moto X is the same, but it charges just fine when plugged into it.
My Moto X does not charge from the USB port in my Acura. I use a USB adapter in the cigarette lighter if I need to charge it.
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Solutions Etcetera said:
The USB power in my truck is provided by one of these:
http://daqstuff.com/400116_5volt_switching_power_supply.htm
The only mod I made was to short pins 2 and 3 on the USB ports, which is required for full current charging with a Nexus 7. Dunno if the Moto X is the same, but it charges just fine when plugged into it.
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Click to collapse
Wow 2 amps. At home my iPhone is good for something! Its 2 amp wort charges the x fast!
Yes all phones charge in my Hyundai but very slowly since its only a regular USB port not a charging port. I use a Griffin dual USB charger instead.
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Moto X does not charge in my Honda or Volkswagen via car's USB port. All my previous phones including nexus 5 did. For Moto X I have to use car charger.
From my Moto X, in your face!
My wife's X does not charge via her aftermarket stereo in her Subaru. I have not tried it in my F-150 though.
Standard USB ports in a PC supply 5V and 550mA which is not enough to charge current smart phones. If you are using apps, 550mA is not enough to maintain the charge level (i..e if you have 90% charge, plug into a standard USB port, and use Google Maps or stream a movie from the internet, your battery's charge will slowly drain. Not as fast as when unplugged, but it will drain).
The X ships with a 1150A adapter. I've used 850mA to slowly charge the phone.
I've not metered the voltage and current coming out of my car's USB port.
I use a dual port USB charger that outputs 2.1A per port. (its either Griffin or Kensington)
I stumbled across this issue when I tried to charge my X in the car. I have an old nokia car charger (had nice thick writes and curly cord) that I cut the plug off and soldered a micro usb plug and a resistor between pin 5 and ground for activating car mode on my SGS2 (i9100). I plugged in the X, nothing. I did some research and found that shorting D+ and D- puts it into AC fast charge mode. Charges fine with the screen on. Luckily the old nokia charger has enough grunt to cope.
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Yep
Interesting. Mine does charge via the USB cable on my aftermarket head unit, but it is fairly slow. All I care is that it doesn't drain the battery at all for 4 hours car trips while streaming music and running Google Maps with the screen on the entire time.
mine slowly/medium charges with MyLog and CarHome Ultra or Nav.
I have a magnet and SkipDot in my car dock to auto unlock and trigger car mode which launches CarHome Ultra. I use Llama to further trigger and enable bluetooth and gps as well as disable WiFi. bluetooth connecting to my JVC head unit triggers My Log and automatically logs journeys for tax. Llama cleans up and turns of gps/bt which causes MyLog to finish too.
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I've been searching around, and haven't really found an answer to this. I'm in the process of purchasing a car that has OEM AA, but unfortunately only one USB port, which apparently provides less than 1A of output. There is a 12V outlet in close proximity to the USB port. Are there any solutions out there for using AA while also providing higher amperage charging? Was thinking about trying a small hub/adapter (similar to what you would attach to a USB-C Macbook) but I wasn't sure if that would pass-through power as well. Using a stock Pixel 2.
Probably its not easy to achieve, but usually this is not a problem, you can still buy a different charger for rapid charging which works via the 12v outlet, and when its full or nearly full switch to the AA port, since even if its lower than 1A it will be enough to charge the phone ( or better: to not let it discharge) since the display is off during AA session
I use a USB Y Cable (https://www.startech.com/Cables/USB...xternal-Hard-Drive-USB-A-to-mini-B~USB2HABMY3) with a USB Mini to USB-C adapter.
I don't get the "Charging Rapidly" notification on the lock screen, but it does charge noticeably faster than before.
Is anyone else experiencing slow charging when connected via Android Auto? I'm getting 200mA max with original supplied cable. I know the USB port is capable of more because I was getting a minimum of 1500mA with my old LG G5 when plugged in to the USB port in the car.
If you are trying to get super charge from android auto then it won't happen when charging via a port in a car. Since only Wall adapter can super charge your Huawei device atm, once car port is suited for super charge then it will work.
Yeah I know I won't get the supercharge through the car usb, but I'm only getting 200mA charge rate, which is really really slow, but if I plug in my LG G5 to the same Android Auto usb port, with the same cable (the official Huawei cable) I get around 1200-1500 mA charge rate. So I know the USB output on the car is capable of a decent output. Was just wondering if everyone's p20 pro is like this
Hello Dear, i have the same problem. I and my girlfriend both have an P20 PRO. Both charge the car only with 200mA. When i tried the same cable and the same car USB port on 3 another Samsung phones, it charged with 1800mA. I dont understand this issue on Huawei phones. Do you know how to fix this problem?