Hi all,
I have bought a Kaiser last week which replaced my broken Trinity. The last OS run on the trinity was a Bepe 0.79 german rom.
Now after changing to the Kaiser I have some minor but very annoying problem with the bluetooth connection in my car. My car is an Audi A3 that is officially not compatible with WM 5 and 6 but was working great with the Bepe rom.
The problem occurs only if you turn on the engine during a phone call.
The behaviour is the following: If you have an active phone call and turn on the ignition switch the phone connects to the to the free speech unit in the car and you can continue with your call. But if you continue and turn on the engine the connection between phone and free speech unit gets lost.
Does anybody has an idea how to correct this? Perhaps it is just a registry key to change as this problem did not occur on the Trinity...
Thanks for you help
TheDemon
Welcome to a world of problems! There are a couple of threads on people having problems with built in car kits. I'm sure one of them was an Audi and the person never found a real solution, just a work around (that was a contacts, not a call issue tho.) I personally had some issues with my old HTC Uni running a cooked ROM (which was a vast improvement on the total failure I had with the standard ROM!), these just aren't present with the Kaiser. I guess it's just luck of the draw and something to do with the overall package as I have several issues with different bluetooth devices, some working well with old phones not with new, vice versa, some being buggy with all. Sorry to report bad news, but if you do find a solution that works for you, great!
TheDemon said:
Hi all,
The problem occurs only if you turn on the engine during a phone call.
The behaviour is the following: If you have an active phone call and turn on the ignition switch the phone connects to the to the free speech unit in the car and you can continue with your call. But if you continue and turn on the engine the connection between phone and free speech unit gets lost.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry...can you explain the problem again? I'm not following. If you have an active phone call and turn on the ignition can you or can you not continue your conversation? The two sentences seem to be saying opposite things.
I think what he's saying is that if he turns to the accessory position, or ignition position, depending on how many positions there are (probably the one where all the lights on the dash light up) he's fine, but as soon as he turns the key to actually start the car it goes wrong. I have a feeling this would be due to the momentary powerloss to everything but the starter circuit. Dunno if there is a way to fix that, apart from wiring the carkit to a feed that stays live all the time and isn't cut when the car is started.
Funny enough, I've got a similar problem on the bike. The radio has an external display/remote plugged in (Sony headunit, RM-XM10B display/remote) which lights up when the ignition is switched on, but due to the brief cut in power to the radio when the bike is started the display goes blank. Radio comes back on fine, like it does in any car, but the only way to get the remote display to work again is to cycle the radio off/on. That might just be the way the carkit handles a brief drop in power and the only way to fix it is to wire it directly off the battery. A good auto electrician should be able to wire it so that it gets a constant live direct from the battery, but switched via a relay that doesn't die when the car is started.
ok, so I just noticed something really annoying. I just came back from my daily running and it was the first time I used the diamond with my stereo bluetooth philips headset for this instead of the ipod.
as soon as I started running and the diamond jumped up and down in my pocket the music started stuttering like crazy. like the old days when I had a cd player without shock memory
first I thought this had something to do with sensor lock running, but I uninstalled it and the problem is still there. I now tried to reproduce the stuttering when at home and it seems to be connected to the distance. when I hold the phone close to the bluetooth headset and start shaking the phone like crazy nothing happens. as soon as I move it down to my pockets it begins stuttering when I rapidly move the phone around.
I tried searching the forums but couldnt really find anything stutter related when it comes to motion. I'm not sure if this has something to do with the motion sensor or with my headphones weak bluetooth receiver...
any suggestions are welcome here, I'm a bit baffled by this whole thing.
greets,
4saken
Stuttering?
Sounds more likely to be your headphones. I use Motorola S9 bluetooth headphones and have no issue with the sound jumping, skipping or anything... unless I leave my Diamond in the house and walk down the garden! I'm not sure whether all Diamonds have the same bluetooth hardware. If some incarnations have different hardware, this might be the issue.
Can you 'borrow' a mates' headphones to see if you get the same result?
Perhaps one of the techno wizards here can let us know if there are any differences in the bluetooth hardware between various Diamond devices?
thanks for your answer. I'll try to find someone with another bluetooth headset.
I hope it's not hardware related. can you tell me what radio version and rom you got running? maybe there's a difference here.
sounds like its a problem with the bluetooth range, if you shake the phone when its near the headset it doesnt make trouble but when its more far away you get problems, so i would think it get out of transmission range.
no problem here with bluetooth on shaking
greets
what bluetooth headset do you have? the weird thing is, if I lay the phone flat on a table I can walk about 10 meters before I get any stuttering. why would shaking the phone reduce that range to about 1 meter?! that doesnt make any sense..
Lay your phone on the table walk around and shake yourself/headset and u will see it comes from ur headset.
Mine is plantronics dunno the specs can look tomorow as there is nothing on the headset.
greets
EDIT: if not i think the bloodtooth has a loose connection ?! But that shouldnt be on that onebrick device
This is a rather odd problem im having with my tilt, and was wondering if its just me. Whenever my phone gets a signal, if its within 3 feet of ANY speaker, off or on, the speaker goes crazy! Its the same pattern of tones, sort of like a fax machine handshake. I wear my headphones alot, and can tell when I am getting a call even before my screen turns on, and its rather loud. So, now when I wear my headphones, I need to place it about 3 feet away from me, and the headphone cable. Also, the phone dials up about every 10-15 mins, even when sleeping. I can hear this also. Its also not limited to headphones, but any speaker. I had the phone resting on my alarm clock, and the speaker went crazy when my wife called!!!
This sort of magnetic interference is insane, and frankly not tolerable. I have an ATT Tilt and tried a few different radio's in diff ROM's.
Very common. If you take the cell phone near to a CRT computer monitor (not LCD) right before a call / text, the screen will also show you lines.
My all phones did the same. I bought this AT&T Tilt phone running stock WM6.1 and until I flashed a cooked ROM on it, it did NOT give me these sounds through my speakers and I was amused!
The day I flashed it with a cooked ROM (and obviously a new radio / different radio) the sounds came back. This is purely electrical interference. The only solution is to keep your cell phone away from your speakers if you do not want to add additional shielding to your speakers or buy a different / better phone.
More information? Google it and you will find a lot of information on this issue.
Thanks for the info. I have had a few handsets b4, but nothing as big and complex as the tilt (Razor and cheap clamshell) and none of them gave me the problem im dealing with now. Its rather crazy to think that such a small device is putting out so much magnetic interference!
RF exposure anyone? i've noticed that my tilt causes a lot of interference even when at a distance. I'm getting rid of it as soon as I can.
This used to happen to me, then AT&T upgraded the network in my area to 3G. The band that 3G operates on is different than that of the Edge or 2G networks. I could never have my phone within 6 feet of my computer at work due to the loud noise. Now, It charges right next to the speakers all day with no problems. Hope that helps.
So I've replaced my stock Navigation system in my '09 Mazda 6 with a 2nd gen Nexus 7.
I bought a used one off ebay because it didn't matter to me if the case/cover was banged up or not as I was planning on building it into the dash. The Nexus fits pretty well in the 2-din opening of the aftermarket panel I got [American International brand kit# MAZK860]. I used a Minisuit-X TPU case to help hold the tablet in place. The case creates a raised frame around the screen and makes it easier to locate the screen from the back of the 2-din panel. Notches needed to be cut in the sub-frame piece of the din kit for the USB connector and headphone jack, but other than that very little modifications were needed. I used a piece of PVC perforated sheet to hold the tablet into the din plate. The perforations in the sheet made it easy to cut out notches and holes with side cutters and achieve the shape I wanted without having to make a mess using a dremel.
For audio, I had purchased a Syba SD-CM-UAUD DAC but had trouble getting it to work right so I am now just using a 3.5mm 4-pin splitter to 3.5mm headphone/mic jacks. I have a JK MIC-J 044 lapel clip microphone stashed behind a small vent in the upper console panel and wired a headphone jack into the harness [Metra 70-7903]. I know some people think the DAC is far superior but I found the headphone jack audio output good enough for me and running it through the stock Bose amplifier in my car sounds excellent.
I'm also using a Joycon EXR to capture steering wheel controls and an EasyCap Dc60 to capture video from my KS1 dual channel dash camera. The camera is set to show the rear view for the video out so I can use it as a back-up camera on the tablet.
My first time installing the tablet worked ok. I had a few problems including the steering controls not working (except Volume down) and the battery wouldn't stay charged enough, forcing me to remove the tablet and charge it every other week. The Easycam also wouldn't work and flash drives wouldn't load right. The Joycon, Easycap, and flash drive issues were due to the $2 4-port hub I got free with something. I tried an Amazon Essentials hub too and it had an intermittent short. A 4-port Insignia hub from Bestbuy did the trick and everything is working now.
I did rebuild the harness last weekend because I wanted to get the Li-Ion battery out of the hot dash. Even though this setup was working ok, when it's 90-plug degrees outside, the tablet will shut itself off and boot-loop until it cools down. I decided to replace the battery with a 12V to 4.2V DC Step-Down regulator. I got an extra battery from ebay and remove the tiny controller board. I had read where other people just replaced the battery with a power supply and were getting odd messages from the tablet about how it was at 0 volts and wouldn't sleep or update properly. So, I used the battery control board and it reports the battery level to the tablet (usually around 90~95%).
The only issue I am having with the power is that when I start the engine, either the power is dropping too much or the car kills power to the radio harness and then I have to wait for the tablet to restart.
To fix this, I plan on using a capacitor to try and keep the tablet powered while the car is starting.
I do need some help. Though I have removed the Li-Ion battery, the overheated tablet will still shut down and boot-loop until it cools down. Is there a way to program it to ignore the temp. sensor? If not, does anyone know where this particular sensor is so I can replace it with a fixed resistor and make it think it's always room temp?
Questions, comments, and ideas welcome!
~Mike
i am sorry i cant be any help but what launcher and rom/ kernel do you use?
amazing. navigation works well ?
ccb101 said:
i am sorry i cant be any help but what launcher and rom/ kernel do you use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using Timur's USB Rom for 4.4.4.
eldar4uk said:
amazing. navigation works well ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't been on any trips yet, but I did test it on the ride home from work and it works well; picks up the GPS signal well. I just used Google Maps navigation for it and I input the directions using "OK Google".
~Mike
Hi,
I recently bought a Joying Radio for a VW, it is a 8" touch screen and so far seems to work, I only have a really annoying problem with the noise. When I am not playing any music, the speakers emit a static noise, the volume of the noise never changes even if I turn up the radio. Since I am not always listening to music, I would still like to fix the problem. I read and the Sticky thread something about ground loop noise, but could never find an explanation to it. Maybe someone of you can help me
Also my weather app doesn't seem to work, if someone has any ideas
Thanks in advance, if you need any other information for solving this problem, let me know
How loud is it?
A very low static sound is common on these units. I have it both of mine. As you noted, thankfully the volume of the static does not increase with the volume so I really don't notice it when music is playing.
kaitzo said:
I only have a really annoying problem with the noise. When I am not playing any music, the speakers emit a static noise
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can try:
- linking the metal case of the unit to ground wire;
- shielding harness wires, as better you can
popeye70 said:
You can try:
- linking the metal case of the unit to ground wire;
- shielding harness wires, as better you can
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The noise is not that loud, you only hear it if you are not driving and have nothing playing.
Is the ground wire already included in the VW cabling so that I have to pull it out of the harness or do I have to run a cable myself?
As for shielding I assume I can just take some electrical tape or is there anything else recommended?
Thanks in advance!
Hi kaitzo,
take a look at this thread of carjoying forum http://forum.carjoying.com/thread-24.html there is a link "solutions for radio bad reception" that can help for your problem too...
- radio1 subfolder has pictures about shielding wires
- radio2 subfolder has pictures about linking the iron case to GND
popeye70 said:
Hi kaitzo,
take a look at this thread of carjoying forum there is a link "solutions for radio bad reception" that can help for your problem too...
- radio1 subfolder has pictures about shielding wires
- radio2 subfolder has pictures about linking the iron case to GND
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, thanks for the reply, I already noticed that when I pull out the radio cable the noise is gone, so I am gonne give shielding it a try If that doesn't work, I will try connecting the ground wire.
I'll let you know if it helped solving the problem
kaitzo said:
Hey, thanks for the reply, I already noticed that when I pull out the radio cable the noise is gone, so I am gonne give shielding it a try If that doesn't work, I will try connecting the ground wire.
I'll let you know if it helped solving the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so I dont care about AM/FM radio. are you saying if you just left the AM/FM radio unplugged you would have no noise at all?
CadillacMike said:
so I dont care about AM/FM radio. are you saying if you just left the AM/FM radio unplugged you would have no noise at all?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, leaving the antenna unplugged solved the problem for me, since I will be listening to Spotify most of the time anyway it might be a solution. Nevertheless, I will try to fix it even with the Antenna plugged in. Trying the ground method next, as shielding didn't help. I also found that the VW connector and the antenna connector which was included with the car not join each other all the way, so it is always a bit loose, but even with force I can't completely join them. I will let you know if I succeed.
And??
And after all you find a solution??? I’m with same issue
Having Same Issue
Hello there,
Sorry to revive this thread a few months late, but I am having the same issue and wanted to see if anyone had any ideas to fix it. I installed a Ownice C500+ radio head unit into a 2015 Nissan Murano. Everything functions perfectly and works great - expect for one thing. Whenever the volume is on, there is a very faint staticky sound in the background. It never changes tones or volume. It just always stays at the same pitch and doesn't go away. Aside from turning the sound all the way off, the only time it doesn't do this is when I switch to the radio - then the hissing disappears and all is perfect again. But if I am playing music via USB/AUX/Bluetooth, etc, (or if I just have the volume on with nothing playing) the hissing noise is always there. It is faint and hardly audible, so during driving it is no problem. But if, for example, I am listening to a soft song while stopped at a red light - then I can hear it and it is annoying.
I have tried to change the amplifier gain in the head unit because I figured that is what is causing the noise. However, it does not seem possible in the Ownice unit. The sound equalizer does not have "gain" as an option to change, I checked into Advanced Settings as well, also tried engineer mode on Android unit, plus downloaded some equalizer apps but nothing has fixed it.
Any idea on what is causing this and what I can do to fix it? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated Thank you
Same here
TiberiusGavier said:
Hello there,
Sorry to revive this thread a few months late, but I am having the same issue and wanted to see if anyone had any ideas to fix it. I installed a Ownice C500+ radio head unit into a 2015 Nissan Murano. Everything functions perfectly and works great - expect for one thing. Whenever the volume is on, there is a very faint staticky sound in the background. It never changes tones or volume. It just always stays at the same pitch and doesn't go away. Aside from turning the sound all the way off, the only time it doesn't do this is when I switch to the radio - then the hissing disappears and all is perfect again. But if I am playing music via USB/AUX/Bluetooth, etc, (or if I just have the volume on with nothing playing) the hissing noise is always there. It is faint and hardly audible, so during driving it is no problem. But if, for example, I am listening to a soft song while stopped at a red light - then I can hear it and it is annoying.
I have tried to change the amplifier gain in the head unit because I figured that is what is causing the noise. However, it does not seem possible in the Ownice unit. The sound equalizer does not have "gain" as an option to change, I checked into Advanced Settings as well, also tried engineer mode on Android unit, plus downloaded some equalizer apps but nothing has fixed it.
Any idea on what is causing this and what I can do to fix it? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same issue here with a new Asottu Infidini Allwinner T8, with extra DSP chip included. Except that my hissing sound goes up with the volume. I will contact seller.
lorrys said:
Same issue here with a new Asottu Infidini Allwinner T8, with extra DSP chip included. Except that my hissing sound goes up with the volume. I will contact seller.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds good, I will keep working on it as well - let me know if they happen to find out what is causing it
Same issue here : (
Solved!
Asottu provided an android 7.1.2 update weeks ago. The issue is gone now. It was not an MCU update. Just Android.
@lorrys
I'm glad that fixed it for your system - I will look for an update to the Ownice unit but I don't believe they have one to go to Android 7.1.2
traxformania said:
Same issue here : (
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did find a solution that essentially makes the problem almost disappear. If you have an Ownice C500+ unit, go into Settings, enter 1260 as password to go to hidden settings, enter the volume area, make all of those values as low as they can possibly go. Some of those will be in the negative. When you reboot the system, the sound is essentially inaudible and that solves the problem.
lorrys said:
Asottu provided an android 7.1.2 update weeks ago. The issue is gone now. It was not an MCU update. Just Android.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same issue but with Toyota version of the unit. Can you share the update?
i think the issue is the am/fm antenna, get a noise filter antenna adapter, might solve the issue
hi, I have an eonon ga8161, it would be hct px3 7.1 if I'm not mistaken.
I also have the background volume problem, but it is almost inaudible.
the most obvious problem is a rustling metallic type rustling noise, which is heard when there is processing from a USB device, both pendrive and USB dashcam ... someone has had this problem, because it is very annoying