Related
Hi,
I have my sgs about 2 months and I'm very happy with it. The only problem I have is, that sometimes there are strange displayinterferences.
It looks like there are moving waves from top to down.
Does anybody have this troubles too and has a solution for it?
Or is it an hardware error? The problem is that the error isn't reproducable.
Maybe somebody can help me, please!
Thanks in advance
spyro
I think I have also noticed that once or twice. I believe it can be seen when you have the android drop down menu (notifications etc) open and you start or stop WiFi. It must be some kind of interferance with wifi hardware. Normal wifi operation does not cause it, only the startup of the WiFI which lasts one second or so.
Yeah, i think this could be true. I also see it often, when I open die Notification bar. But I also have the same interferences, when I am working in apps. Maybe also the 3G connection could be the reason? Does anybody else have this problem.
Is this a problem, which I have to life with or could this be an error of the hardware(warranty)?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=753402
I have the same problem. Never on wifi tho.
Which firmware are you using?
Hi,
my firmware is I9000AUJF1(A1 branded from Austria). I don't know if the problem in your posted thread is the same. The interferences I mean only exist one or two seconds. There are horizontal dark lines which moves from top to the bottom. After some time everything is OK again. It looks like anything interfers the display(wifi, 3g?).
The problem of warranty is, that I'm not able to show the problem, because it's not reproducable.
Screen flickering under WiFi data transfer
I noticed this problem a couple of days ago.
Whenever there is some data transfer going on over WiFi, wherever I am browsing or some service syncs up the screen starts flickering and I have what I can describe as faint scan lines crossing the screen vertically like there is some sort of interference.
These are mostly noticeable on white and light grey backgrounds.
I have gone trough 2 firmware updates currently being on stock JPK rooted.
I have searched around on google and found on some forum one guy that was saying the cause is an interference between the WiFi module and the screen refresh rate.
Has anybody encountered this problem or these symptoms ?
Is there somebody around more knowledgeable in this issues that can confirm that this is a hardware problem ?
wow! , you might have a defective phone then.
I use WiFi very often, Wireless N at aprox 87 Mbps
that should be high enough to reproduce the problem you experienced, if i had a faulty screen
the description of the scan line reminds me of interference when you are in close proximity with another LCD or CRT screen causing the distortion field
OMG, I get this too. Usually happens on boot or when I'm browsing a data heavy website or using Android market. Are our phone defective? Does anyone else have this problem? I wonder how common it is.
does the scan line comes from bottom up
or goes from top to bottom?
very slowly or fast?
if you are pluged in and charging, also are you in a 120v or 240v?
AllGamer said:
does the scan line comes from bottom up
or goes from top to bottom?
very slowly or fast?
if you are pluged in and charging, also are you in a 120v or 240v?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They tend to be random and I'm on battery power atm. Also they're quite fast but don't last very long. They'll start then stop then start etc ..
Hi,
just for your information. I've sent my phone to samsung on friday. Maybe they find the error. I report, if there are new information.
Yep i have the same problem. Can t find the source though....
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk
The lines appear from top and travel the screen fast.
Imagine a TV who for a second has problem with reception.
I am on 240 V.
Also the issue is much more noticeable when not plugged in.
If I have the phone plugged in its barely noticeable.
I will try to call the service and ask about this issue. I have a strong feeling that this is a hardware issue. But Besides the screen being defective I also think about the battery. Maybe when in high load (WiFi) it's voltage varies and affects the screen.
It seems if I uncheck Power saving mode in Settings>Display and also uncheck Automatic brightness things improve a bit.
segun_aduba said:
The lines appear from top and travel the screen fast.
Imagine a TV who for a second has problem with reception.
I am on 240 V.
Also the issue is much more noticeable when not plugged in.
If I have the phone plugged in its barely noticeable.
I will try to call the service and ask about this issue. I have a strong feeling that this is a hardware issue. But Besides the screen being defective I also think about the battery. Maybe when in high load (WiFi) it's voltage varies and affects the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another issue to worry about .. God starting to think about selling this phone and getting something else. Stuck in a 2 year contract though
some one already reported this on another topic
it does seems that some version of the phone are prone to WiFi interferance
we still haven't found out what causes it exactly
for example i can not replicate the issue on my phone when using WiFi
found it
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=793944
Cant reproduce it.
Not that I'm unhappy with it...
If this is a hardware issue Samsung should replace my phone. I am waiting though a little bit before calling the service to make sure that it is a hardware problem.
If I find that it can easily be fixed with a software fix, it's not worth the hassle of trying to replace it.
can anyone in North America confirm this issue?
i got a huntch it might be an Europe only issue related to the high voltage of the electric interferance nearby, like lights, tv, radio, wifi, etc.
hello friends , i have a lg l90 (d410) that's barely one and a half month old . it's currently running on v10 d stock firmware and is rooted. I am finding it to heating under fairly mild to moderate usage.
Here's a brief overview of my usage patterns:
1. brightness at 30%
2. using single sim and data connection is on edge network throughout
3. have removed all google bloatware, currently have very few apps installed from the playstore & also greenify them post-usage
4. use a nillkin frosted shield hard case
Even after following all precautions, I can't help but find my phone's upper part & the area below the camera (at the back) to be heating up fairly fast, sayif i watch 4-6 mins of hd/full hd video on mx player at brightness "10" & sound "12" under H/W or S/W or say when I am using data-intensive apps & would suddenly have to attend a call in between, i would find the earpiece portion really warm. no matter how many apps i get rid of, thinking it would solve the issue, I always fail ! I use cooler master to determine apps that cause overheating & coolify to cool down but they don't seem to be of any help either!
Any idea about what could be causing this issue on my device? Should this be adjudged as a hardware fault & the unit be taken to the service center? I know this isn't fairly normal because ppl r hailing l90 for not warming up even during moderate gaming but mine even warms up while charging!
Any possible software-hack workarounds to get rid of this issue?
sujitmohanty2012 said:
hello friends , i have a lg l90 (d410) that's barely one and a half month old . it's currently running on v10 d stock firmware and is rooted. I am finding it to heating under fairly mild to moderate usage.
Here's a brief overview of my usage patterns:
1. brightness at 30%
2. using single sim and data connection is on edge network throughout
3. have removed all google bloatware, currently have very few apps installed from the playstore & also greenify them post-usage
4. use a nillkin frosted shield hard case
Even after following all precautions, I can't help but find my phone's upper part & the area below the camera (at the back) to be heating up fairly fast, sayif i watch 4-6 mins of hd/full hd video on mx player at brightness "10" & sound "12" under H/W or S/W or say when I am using data-intensive apps & would suddenly have to attend a call in between, i would find the earpiece portion really warm. no matter how many apps i get rid of, thinking it would solve the issue, I always fail ! I use cooler master to determine apps that cause overheating & coolify to cool down but they don't seem to be of any help either!
Any idea about what could be causing this issue on my device? Should this be adjudged as a hardware fault & the unit be taken to the service center? I know this isn't fairly normal because ppl r hailing l90 for not warming up even during moderate gaming.
Any possible software-hack workarounds to get rid of this issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its probably hardware. I have an L90 whose screen flickers. A friend has L90 with poor speaker quality. Its not perfect.
Look at battery temperature using app. Under 37°C is good.
I wouldnt blame. Galaxy S4 goes upto 44°C
@fear2433 thanks for reaching out to me! ...I have seen my phone getting hot up to 47°c Celsius while playing angry birds go for some 2-3 mins. Watching a HD video for say, 5 mins takes the temperature to 41-43°c Celsius. It normally stays at 31-33.9°c. I really don't think this is normal!
Should I take it to the local service centre & request a PCB replacement?
Sent from my LG-D410 using XDA Free mobile app
sujitmohanty2012 said:
@fear2433 thanks for reaching out to me! ...I have seen my phone getting hot up to 47°c Celsius while playing angry birds go for some 2-3 mins. Watching a HD video for say, 5 mins takes the temperature to 41-43°c Celsius. It normally stays at 31-33.9°c. I really don't think this is normal!
Should I take it to the local service centre & request a PCB replacement?
Sent from my LG-D410 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes definetly.
But do not foget to uninstall custom recovery and Relock the bootloader, with KDZ method in the forum.
They will be happy to push the blame to you because you "rooted"
@fear2433- ya..sure!
fear2433 said:
Yes definetly.
But do not foget to uninstall custom recovery and Relock the bootloader, with KDZ method in the forum.
They will be happy to push the blame to you because you "rooted"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
@fear2433 Could you please look here http://forum.xda-developers.com/lg-l90/help/sandisk-ultra-microsdhc-uhs-32gb-heats-t2948117 & tell me your point of view!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UO84SCeykrD6Ecb9p3yWfoUe4KN2pJs2Eg/view
Above you can see detectable (under close scrutiny, ideal conditions) burn-in of my Nexus 6 screen after the following usage:
Only 8 weeks since I bought the phone
I'm reasonably sure that this was not present when I got the device because:
1 - it was "new" from Amazon in factory sealed box (although at a bargain price $299 for 64gb which makes me wonder slightly);
2 - inspected it pretty careully when I was reading about burn in shortly after I got my device;
My screen on time on a typical day is probably 2-5 hours per day over that 8 weeks. (although probably 5-6 hours per day during the very first week!)
Brightness is always in auto with the slider in the middle. And I don't spend a lot of time outside with my screen on.
You can see that's pretty mild usage for a relatively short time. And yet many others are reporting they absolutely can't detect anything whatsoever even after a year of use. . I'm led to believe I'm an outlier.
So what is it that might make me more susceptible than the next guy?
The "easy" answer is device quality. And it might be the right answer, but what if there's something else.
I thought about what it is in my usage (which seems relatively mild) that might possibly cause this.
Then I realized the one thing that struck me odd about this phone. I noticed the screen is warm to my fingers if I use it while charging. I didn't meausre that temperature, but I did download GSAM about a month in and and set a battery temperature alarm at 110F. If I do mild surfing while charging, battery temperature gets up to 110F within a few minutes. I don't let it go above that now, and the screen feels relatively cool compared to how hot I used to let it get. So I'm going to guess that my battery temperature used to routinely get to 115 or 120F while I was using my phone while charging. And although they're not equal, when battery gets hot screen gets hot (again I could feel the heat).
Would heat affect amoled deterioration? We wouldn't think that at first because we normally associate the deterioration with simply being energized brightly over time. But what about being energized causes that deterioration. What if it's the localized heat at the pixel from that brightly energized pixel that causes the damage. In that case, anything else which makes the phone/screen run hotter overall will tend to enhance that local damage mechanism also.
Does my phone run hotter than average? I'm not sure, but since day 1 I've been using this funky case Uniform Supcase Beetle Hybrid Pro.. It's built like an otterbox.... thick and rugged. Up to 1/4" inch thick and surrounds the phone on back, all sides, and even wraps around to cover the front bezel. Imagine that wrapping is an insulator (like a blanket), it helps to keep the heat inside so the phone underneath the blankets is hotter than it otherwise would be.
Is that case why I'm different? I dunno, all I've got is one phone as a data point and a scenario that seems plausible to me.
I'm interested to know if any others have associated elevated temperatures or a thick case with enhanced susceptibility to burn-in . Or if you believe it may be related.
By the way, I have to add my perspective this is a minor and managable thing. I still love this phone. I'm just curious about why...
There are of course many threads on subject of N6 burn-in. The biggest one here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-6/general/burn-t2955765
electricpete1 said:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UO84SCeykrD6Ecb9p3yWfoUe4KN2pJs2Eg/view
Above you can see detectable (under close scrutiny, ideal conditions) burn-in of my Nexus 6 screen after the following usage:
Only 8 weeks since I bought the phone
I'm reasonably sure that this was not present when I got the device because:
1 - it was "new" from Amazon in factory sealed box (although at a bargain price $299 for 64gb which makes me wonder slightly);
2 - inspected it pretty careully when I was reading about burn in shortly after I got my device;
My screen on time on a typical day is probably 2-5 hours per day over that 8 weeks. (although probably 5-6 hours per day during the very first week!)
Brightness is always in auto with the slider in the middle. And I don't spend a lot of time outside with my screen on.
You can see that's pretty mild usage for a relatively short time. And yet many others are reporting they absolutely can't detect anything whatsoever even after a year of use. . I'm led to believe I'm an outlier.
So what is it that might make me more susceptible than the next guy?
The "easy" answer is device quality. And it might be the right answer, but what if there's something else.
I thought about what it is in my usage (which seems relatively mild) that might possibly cause this.
Then I realized the one thing that struck me odd about this phone. I noticed the screen is warm to my fingers if I use it while charging. I didn't meausre that temperature, but I did download GSAM about a month in and and set a battery temperature alarm at 110F. If I do mild surfing while charging, battery temperature gets up to 110F within a few minutes. I don't let it go above that now, and the screen feels relatively cool compared to how hot I used to let it get. So I'm going to guess that my battery temperature used to routinely get to 115 or 120F while I was using my phone while charging. And although they're not equal, when battery gets hot screen gets hot (again I could feel the heat).
Would heat affect amoled deterioration? We wouldn't think that at first because we normally associate the deterioration with simply being energized brightly over time. But what about being energized causes that deterioration. What if it's the localized heat at the pixel from that brightly energized pixel that causes the damage. In that case, anything else which makes the phone/screen run hotter overall will tend to enhance that local damage mechanism also.
Does my phone run hotter than average? I'm not sure, but since day 1 I've been using this funky case Uniform Supcase Beetle Hybrid Pro.. It's built like an otterbox.... thick and rugged. Up to 1/4" inch thick and surrounds the phone on back, all sides, and even wraps around to cover the front bezel. Imagine that wrapping is an insulator (like a blanket), it helps to keep the heat inside so the phone underneath the blankets is hotter than it otherwise would be.
Is that case why I'm different? I dunno, all I've got is one phone as a data point and a scenario that seems plausible to me.
I'm interested to know if any others have associated elevated temperatures or a thick case with enhanced susceptibility to burn-in . Or if you believe it may be related.
By the way, I have to add my perspective this is a minor and managable thing. I still love this phone. I'm just curious about why...
There are of course many threads on subject of N6 burn-in. The biggest one here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-6/general/burn-t2955765
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can notice burn in on mine (I use no case at all) but its very mild and a "burn-in fixer" like the black and white rolling lines from "Display Tester" makes it go away if ever I'm that bored to do so. Also I only ever notice it on a grey background which honestly is rare to appear where the status and button bars are. On the terms of battery temp I really have to get something going to hit >105F for instance downloading videos using multiple streams to make it go faster which requires stitching the video back together at the end which basically pegs the cpu. General browsing reading some news stories etc stays ~85-90F. Differences in temps between phone for this one in particular can swing wildly due to there being upwards of 17 different CPU "bins" (compared to something like 3-4 on the Nexus 5) with each bin being a 10mV shift in the voltage table for the CPU meaning on CPU can have a 300mhz at 810mV (bin0) and another could have it at 650mV (bin16). For reference mine is a Bin 12 or 690mV on the 300mhz and 1110mV on 2.7ghz.
Both of my devices (had the old one for about 2 months, this guy for about 1) both show burn-in similar to yours already. First was caseless, this one I run with a case. I think that burn-in is just a very widespread issue with this panel and the people claiming to not have any simply don't notice it. Maybe I got 2 bad devices fresh from amazon but, I think that's just how it is. Good news is it really doesn't bother me and I can't see it without a gray background.
electricpete1 said:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UO84SCeykrD6Ecb9p3yWfoUe4KN2pJs2Eg/view
Above you can see detectable (under close scrutiny, ideal conditions) burn-in of my Nexus 6 screen after the following usage:
Only 8 weeks since I bought the phone
I'm reasonably sure that this was not present when I got the device because:
1 - it was "new" from Amazon in factory sealed box (although at a bargain price $299 for 64gb which makes me wonder slightly);
2 - inspected it pretty careully when I was reading about burn in shortly after I got my device;
My screen on time on a typical day is probably 2-5 hours per day over that 8 weeks. (although probably 5-6 hours per day during the very first week!)
Brightness is always in auto with the slider in the middle. And I don't spend a lot of time outside with my screen on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's an interesting theory.
I'm one of those who have absolutely NO detectable burn in, either permanent or latent. I also run a thick case -- Ballistic Maxx.... but... I have (used to, but don't any more) used it very hot. In particular google maps nav used to really make a lot of heat, enough that you could REALLY feel it on the screen, and even through the case. Somewhere along the lines, something changed enough in (firmware? OS? gmaps?) that this no longer gets it to heat up appreciably. Aside from that, I've *never* used it while charging -- kind of difficult to do so with wireless charging. Auto-brightness with the slider at about 1/3. I've owned it for a year now.
---------- Post added at 08:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:39 PM ----------
StykerB said:
I can notice burn in on mine (I use no case at all) but its very mild and a "burn-in fixer" like the black and white rolling lines from "Display Tester" makes it go away if ever I'm that bored to do so. Also I only ever notice it on a grey background which honestly is rare to appear where the status and button bars are. On the terms of battery temp I really have to get something going to hit >105F for instance downloading videos using multiple streams to make it go faster which requires stitching the video back together at the end which basically pegs the cpu. General browsing reading some news stories etc stays ~85-90F. Differences in temps between phone for this one in particular can swing wildly due to there being upwards of 17 different CPU "bins" (compared to something like 3-4 on the Nexus 5) with each bin being a 10mV shift in the voltage table for the CPU meaning on CPU can have a 300mhz at 810mV (bin0) and another could have it at 650mV (bin16). For reference mine is a Bin 12 or 690mV on the 300mhz and 1110mV on 2.7ghz.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That operation *should not* be especially hard on the CPU. Its actually a fairly trivial task. Might be that your software is doing something stupid, like keeping all the different pieces separate until the end when it copies them all in sequence into a target file.
You might want to look into better downloader software. The *correct* way to perform this kind of a job, is to allocate the file in advance, and have each stream write to its correct offset in parallel. No final copy.
You might also save a heap of work if you get rid of userdata crypto. Big problem with the crypto on these when doing that kind of glue-job, is that it will be running decrypt on all the different pieces, and simultaneously running encrypt on the target file.
That operation *should not* be especially hard on the CPU. Its actually a fairly trivial task. Might be that your software is doing something stupid, like keeping all the different pieces separate until the end when it copies them all in sequence into a target file.
You might want to look into better downloader software. The *correct* way to perform this kind of a job, is to allocate the file in advance, and have each stream write to its correct offset in parallel. No final copy.
You might also save a heap of work if you get rid of userdata crypto. Big problem with the crypto on these when doing that kind of glue-job, is that it will be running decrypt on all the different pieces, and simultaneously running encrypt on the target file.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well for 360p, 144p, and 720p which are the resolutions you can natively download from youtube as an MP4 do function this way (which if you download these resolutions the software just takes ~5 seconds to finalize the file after downloading). However since youtube is exactly keen on people downloading videos w/o Red (which I do have but I like having 1080p and/or 60fps for gaming style videos which Red does not allow for unfortunately). So those non-standard resolutions have to be downloaded in their little 4096 kb chunks with separate video and audio streams as if it were streaming it from the website itself and stitched together using an actual encoder. A 1080p60 video can put a sizable load ~50-100% i5 5200u laptop processor (depending on the complexity of the scene) while realtime streaming which arguably has more raw power than a N6 (part of the reason youtube still streams AVC codec to android). Now with the phone not having to actually render the video which VP9 codec isn't supported fully either device's GPU so a chunk of the load on the laptop would be rendering. The phone being able to finalize a 1080p60 30 minute video in ~1 minute is why the CPU is 100% while doing so and that just tells me it's using all the power it can to accomplish the task in parallel utilizing all 4 cores.
As for using encryption I've disabled it in the past with varied results (mostly kernel differences) but since I'm sticking with the stock rom and using the monthly ota's I've just left it on to stop any potential accidental encryption which could theoretically lead to data loss and/or the hassle of unecrypting again. In addition to this I see absolutely no gain in speed on the video stitching process which considering it performs the task at a ~15-20 MB/s rate where the limits of the encrypted storage are 200MB/s read and 90 write for sequential reading which is what the encoder is using. Since android 5.1 when the kernel was updated to take advantage of qualcomm's encryption instructions which would otherwise go unused to the OS anyway, encryption doesn't affect this type of workload.
I know this is kinda outside the scope of this thread but I have done some reading on this kinda stuff when I was trying to learn why the app needed an external app when downloading those difference resolutions which most apps wouldn't even do outside of PC software.
StykerB said:
Well for 360p, 144p, and 720p which are the resolutions you can natively download from youtube as an MP4 do function this way (which if you download these resolutions the software just takes ~5 seconds to finalize the file after downloading). However since youtube is exactly keen on people downloading videos w/o Red (which I do have but I like having 1080p and/or 60fps for gaming style videos which Red does not allow for unfortunately). So those non-standard resolutions have to be downloaded in their little 4096 kb chunks with separate video and audio streams as if it were streaming it from the website itself and stitched together using an actual encoder. A 1080p60 video can put a sizable load ~50-100% i5 5200u laptop processor (depending on the complexity of the scene) while realtime streaming which arguably has more raw power than a N6 (part of the reason youtube still streams AVC codec to android). Now with the phone not having to actually render the video which VP9 codec isn't supported fully either device's GPU so a chunk of the load on the laptop would be rendering. The phone being able to finalize a 1080p60 30 minute video in ~1 minute is why the CPU is 100% while doing so and that just tells me it's using all the power it can to accomplish the task in parallel utilizing all 4 cores.
As for using encryption I've disabled it in the past with varied results (mostly kernel differences) but since I'm sticking with the stock rom and using the monthly ota's I've just left it on to stop any potential accidental encryption which could theoretically lead to data loss and/or the hassle of unecrypting again. In addition to this I see absolutely no gain in speed on the video stitching process which considering it performs the task at a ~15-20 MB/s rate where the limits of the encrypted storage are 200MB/s read and 90 write for sequential reading which is what the encoder is using. Since android 5.1 when the kernel was updated to take advantage of qualcomm's encryption instructions which would otherwise go unused to the OS anyway, encryption doesn't affect this type of workload.
I know this is kinda outside the scope of this thread but I have done some reading on this kinda stuff when I was trying to learn why the app needed an external app when downloading those difference resolutions which most apps wouldn't even do outside of PC software.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't even bother to read that since (a) it is out of scope, (b) is from an end-user point of view, and (c) doesn't actually address anything related to what I've explained to you.
Soo I have a faulty battery on my Z3c and I do not have the time or money to replace it right now,and I would love to have a phone which wouldn't overheat and thermal throttle after watching a YouTube video and opening Snapchat.
As well because the battery overheated the back glass's adhesive has weakened and the glass unsticked so I use the phone with the battery exposed which actually did help a bit.
I do get better results when using "conservative" governor and at least trying to set the clock to 1500MHz(it maxes at 1500MHz for some time and then starts peaking at 2400MHz again). I also tried undervolting,didn't notice a difference unfortunately.
So now,what can I do to cool down the battery,because it is starting to get very very annoying. Maybe putting some aluminum plate over the battery(maybe a dumb suggestion,don't really know) or something like that? Thanks to anyone who helps in advance.
Mpdecision becoming re-enabled causes frequency's not to stick. I found using init.d to set kernel CPU settings and having Kernel Adiutor apply as normal again prevents issues.
See the last photo of my battery mod gallery for a thermal mod https://imgur.com/a/8Ceha. It still heats up, though taking longer to and a little less. You could also apply new CPU thermal paste, it wears out with age. Of two devices I've opened up one had no paste.
A metal back will dissipate heat better but will probably affect wireless signal. An interesting observation I've noticed is with the battery separated outside of the device the CPU tends to run a little hotter. As poor design as having a battery attached to the opposite side of a CPU acting as a heatsink is, it still does dissipate heat over more surface than without. More so I think with the battery removed there's not enough pressure against the back of the board to push the thermal contact flush with the front display body. With the back panel removed there's not enough pressure. With the air gap separation mod the extra ~1mm lets an external case create some pressure, getting better results than with an original glass back and hard plastic back case on top.
I never really ran my phone case-less so can't report differences there. However it should be noted that glass is an insulator and isn't good for dissipating heat.
Infy_AsiX said:
Mpdecision becoming re-enabled causes frequency's not to stick. I found using init.d to set kernel CPU settings and having Kernel Adiutor apply as normal again prevents issues.
See the last photo of my battery mod gallery for a thermal mod https://imgur.com/a/8Ceha. It still heats up, though taking longer to and a little less. You could also apply new CPU thermal paste, it wears out with age. Of two devices I've opened up one had no paste.
A metal back will dissipate heat better but will probably affect wireless signal. An interesting observation I've noticed is with the battery separated outside of the device the CPU tends to run a little hotter. As poor design as having a battery attached to the opposite side of a CPU acting as a heatsink is, it still does dissipate heat over more surface than without. More so I think with the battery removed there's not enough pressure against the back of the board to push the thermal contact flush with the front display body. With the back panel removed there's not enough pressure. With the air gap separation mod the extra ~1mm lets an external case create some pressure, getting better results than with an original glass back and hard plastic back case on top.
I never really ran my phone case-less so can't report differences there. However it should be noted that glass is an insulator and isn't good for dissipating heat.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Soo first the Mpdesicion thing,I have installed a new kernel which removes Mpdesicion and puts Intellithermal instead,I don't know if that affects anything with clock changes but we'll see. I am gonna switch to Oreo soon so we'll see how it is there.
Second,I will take the phone apart definitely when I get some time to do so. And for the third thing,no I am not really into modding cases and the insides of the phone and similar so I will be probably avoiding that.
Thanks for the help though.
Dinkec27 said:
Soo first the Mpdesicion thing,I have installed a new kernel which removes Mpdesicion and puts Intellithermal instead,I don't know if that affects anything with clock changes but we'll see. I am gonna switch to Oreo soon so we'll see how it is there.
Second,I will take the phone apart definitely when I get some time to do so. And for the third thing,no I am not really into modding cases and the insides of the phone and similar so I will be probably avoiding that.
Thanks for the help though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Intellithermal is for thermal throttling. A hotplugging replacement for Mpdecision is something else.
So nothing is covering the battery? Be careful not to puncture it. A case doesn't require modding but I think some thickness is required to create pressure. In other words I think the back panel without a case is better than no back panel with just a case and no pressure modification.
Infy_AsiX said:
Intellithermal is for thermal throttling. A hotplugging replacement for Mpdecision is something else.
So nothing is covering the battery? Be careful not to puncture it. A case doesn't require modding but I think some thickness is required to create pressure. In other words I think the back panel without a case is better than no back panel with just a case and no pressure modification.
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Click to collapse
Okay I will try something today or tomorrow.
As for the Mpdecision,I turned it off and my clock still peaks at 2500MHz. You mentioned something with init.d.
Could you tell me what to do?
Dinkec27 said:
Okay I will try something today or tomorrow.
As for the Mpdecision,I turned it off and my clock still peaks at 2500MHz. You mentioned something with init.d.
Could you tell me what to do?
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Click to collapse
Your ROM needs to have init.d support. If it does there should be a folder in /system/etc/init.d/. This used to be easier to add on MM stock. Since N AOSP it seems to be disabled. I've got it working via a workaround on Magisk, it's not straightforward.
Maybe try enabling shell script to apply settings in Kernel Adiutor settings first. If that fails maybe search and ask to see how anyone else gets edited frequencies to stick in your kernel thread. If you still can't get a fix i'll recommend my ideas.
Infy_AsiX said:
Your ROM needs to have init.d support. If it does there should be a folder in /system/etc/init.d/. This used to be easier to add on MM stock. Since N AOSP it seems to be disabled. I've got it working via a workaround on Magisk, it's not straightforward.
Maybe try enabling shell script to apply settings in Kernel Adiutor settings first. If that fails maybe search and ask to see how anyone else gets edited frequencies to stick in your kernel thread. If you still can't get a fix i'll recommend my ideas.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I did most of what you said,so first with Oreo it is actually much better with battery and heat management,but how do you now fix the volume down button when you tried to make the buttons go to place for 1 hour?
Dinkec27 said:
So I did most of what you said,so first with Oreo it is actually much better with battery and heat management,but how do you now fix the volume down button when you tried to make the buttons go to place for 1 hour?
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Click to collapse
So what have you done? Useful to know what's worked for you. Or do you mean Oreo is cooler by itself?
Do you mean your volume button is stuck? It shouldn't be. Check inside if it's aligned and properly placed. If you had removed the board try reinstalling it again taking care with button alignment.
Sent from my Z3 Compact using XDA Labs
Infy_AsiX said:
So what have you done? Useful to know what's worked for you. Or do you mean Oreo is cooler by itself?
Do you mean your volume button is stuck? It shouldn't be. Check inside if it's aligned and properly placed. If you had removed the board try reinstalling it again taking care with button alignment.
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Click to collapse
Nah button alignment is completely fine it just isn't registiring a key press,maybe I have damaged the flex cable or the board.
And what I have done is apply thermal paste,leave 1mm between the motherboard and the battery so it has some air to breathe and Oreo seems to be cooler itself.
You must disable Thermal Core Control for your settings to be applied, can do it with Kernel Adiutor
Well I managed to get a new battery and with new settings that I set on Oreo there is almost no heat sooo yeah,this thread can be closed.
I'm experiencing that while playing pubg trigger suddenly stop working in between the game in latest update. Although when I open the trigger button option and save it. It starts working again but you know it's buggy. No updates from Nubia regarding this issue.
For me it's the same here!
ZTE never again..
ZivasJR said:
For me it's the same here!
ZTE never again..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can we expect any updates from Nubia regarding this
Triggers working fine on rm3s latest FW.
Trigger is working fine for my phone, no issue.
The only time when it is not responding (sometimes) is that when I launched the Whatsapp via the redmagic interface (slide from right to left) then I have to restart the redmagic switch to make it works again.
I am a sorry customer of this brand! I will never buy another mobile phone of this brand.
ZivasJR said:
I am a sorry customer of this brand! I will never buy another mobile phone of this brand.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you elaborate on the issues you are seeing?
The right trigger (R1) when in play he touch alone.
When someone calls me, the screen goes black and I can't answer the calls.
This system is full of untoward bugs!
This is a shame for a large company that wants to compete in the marketplace.
---------- Post added at 12:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:38 PM ----------
SavageCat-TX said:
Can you elaborate on the issues you are seeing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The right trigger (R1) when in play he touch alone.
When someone calls me, the screen goes black and I can't answer the calls.
This system is full of untoward bugs!
This is a shame for a large company that wants to compete in the marketplace.
Yikes. I bought this on Friday and I play PUBG (main reason for buying this phone actually) and I frequently get phones during game play. Really nervous about this phone. I’m hoping that the phone is mostly good. You don’t usually hear the good points nearly as often or as loudly as the negatives. You should hear me witch about the ROG2 and it’s lack of VoLTE. lol
I'm selling this phone for 400€ ... I wanna buy ROG2
IndirajithVJ said:
I'm experiencing that while playing pubg trigger suddenly stop working in between the game in latest update. Although when I open the trigger button option and save it. It starts working again but you know it's buggy. No updates from Nubia regarding this issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
SOULTION FOUND 100% WORKING TESTED THANK ME LATER
NOT A SOFTWARE ISSUE
A TECHNICAL CONSTRUCTION FAULT
as mentioned before by someone, the touch issue comes with charge collection over the back of the phone steel case as we continue to move fingers.
this can be fixed by opening the phone by yourself YES YOU HAVE TO OPEN IT
refer to JERRY RIG EVERYTHING YOUTUBE VIDEO how to open RED MAGIC 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiS24PRIq-A
bottom 2 screws open em, then apply pressure nera voulme buttons to separate the back case from main frame+display. there is no glue so chill its really easy no heatgun required.
NOW DISCONNECT THE 2 RIBBON CABLES FOLLOW JERRY RIGs instructions
NOW THE REPAIR PART
SO the issue is caused by the aluminium foli covering the bus moving from right trigger to central bus connection on the back cover.
it shot circuits with the cover near the touch button and collects charge slowly and randomly deposits it via induction interfering wiht the signals travelling in the bus randomly.
if you see the bus coming from left trigger has no such aluminium foil covering it
CHECK THE LEFT TRIGGER IT HAS NO BUS.
SIMPLE JUST REMOVE THE FOIL COVERING THE BUS carefully starting from left then moving towards right trigger and when it reaches the trigger there are a few thin end tags of the foil which surrounds the touch shouder button. use a soft pin to clear the area with ease.
THATS IT
CONNECT BACK 2 BUS
PUT THE main frame mother board PHONE BACK IN ITS CASE
TIGHTEN THE SCREWS AT BOTTOM
restart phone for proper Finger print working
and now you can focus and work on that KD and Conqueror ....
WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER add me
SOLUTION FOUND BY ME
KINDLY SHARE THIS MANY PEOPLE MIGHT NEED THIS HELP
i found this solution many months ago but govt had shut down internet completely for 8 months here so finally 2g working. IMAGINE 8 months no nothing at all.
HUMANITY COMES FIRST before blind nationalism (free kashmir from opression)
Crossed almost a year.
:crying: No updates from Nubia and their tech team.
Guys this is seriously disgusting ... touch issue not resolved...
I don't know what todo with this device further...
Nubia means No updates
IndirajithVJ said:
:crying: No updates from Nubia and their tech team.
Guys this is seriously disgusting ... touch issue not resolved...
I don't know what todo with this device further...
Nubia means No updates
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
use cn rom much better and freeze bloatware cn apps
Hi! I had the same problem with right trigger. I have tried that fix removing aluminium tape. This doesn't help! It cause another problem. Now, when I do a little more pressure touch to screen it will activate that trigger. (Like using 3d iphone touch)... For me, I have found solution... The problem with right trigger was in faulty headphones... It sound crazy. However, believe me... Just try to change your headphones. Thanks me later