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hi, all. there is a rumor going around that the tilt will have problems if we frequently use non-original charger or usb cable (the one came with tilt) to charge the phone or transfer data such as causing the tilt not functioning or possibly burn out the device/battery, is that true??? do we always use the original usb cable and charger for charging the ATT tilt or transfering data? cuz I m currently using a usb car adapter to charge the tilt. I m really scare of it if this rumor is true. I don't want my tilt get burnt out. Please confirm or disconfirm it.. many thx
usb from the computer is always 5 volts and .5mAmp
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
thats the power pda's use to charge with
unless the computer in question is really defect and provide a non std power
or you charge with a ac charger which provide a different power
you should be safe
Rudegar said:
usb from the computer is always 5 volts and .5mAmp
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
thats the power pda's use to charge with
unless the computer in question is really defect and provide a non std power
or you charge with a ac charger which provide a different power
you should be safe
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the confirmation. seriously, I didn't believe that a usb cable will cause such serious problems since there is only minor difference in the original cable and a regular usb cable. they all look the same internally except for the terminal shape.
as an extra safety precaution, i wouldn't start the car with the tilt plugged in. might be nothing, might be something. once the car is running then i'd plug the tilt in....
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Don't plug the phone in while the moon is out and the planets are aligned, it could cause the charger to spike and then brike your phone. j/k
My buddy had a problem with his USB. I think he put in a funky cable and it bent the connectors that are in the mini usb hole. Careful careful.
I would have to agree with that any usb be fine but be careful. When I first got my tilt awhile back I got this free usb car charger with it. It worked fine but something broke on the inside of it cause i could hear rattling inside. Prob a chip or something to tell the charger to stop charging if batttery is full. Well long story short I fried my usb connection and could not charge my phone or sync it. End up exchanging my Tilt out for a new one.
I am using the same USB cable to charge and sync since my Cingular 8125. I never charge using AC power.
As for car chargers, here is a simple way to check for potential power surges during starting:
1) Turn your key to "ON" but don't actually crank it. Let the radio come on and start playing. Now start the engine. Did your radio cut off during ignition?
-If Yes, unplug devices before starting because your car is not wired to supply continuous power to its outlets.
2) With your car off, and the key removed, plug in your phone. Does it start charging?
-If No, wait until the engine is running before plugging in your phone.
I am able to keep my phone connected at all times because as part of my ~$2000 audio upgrade, I also added an industrial-grade circuit breaker (not a fuse, an actual circuit breaker) between my battery and the inside of the car. In 4 years of running it, I have yet to stress it enough to pop.
Oh nice, I haven't seen too many breakers in a car. Saves on those uber expensive fuses.
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
I bought a sweet 3 in 1 charger kit from frys for 20 dolla..
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Be jealous it's ok!
http://www.wirelessemporium.com/pro...-1-mobile-phone-charger-motorola-razr2-v9.asp
Scott_F said:
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, Of course store guys are going to say that. That's what HTC says. And Store Guys are nothing but Puppets who read papers given to them by corporate and they recite them. Plus they can charge you more, there for make more money, if they sell you a OEM Charger then a "compatible" charger.
stanGib said:
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HTC_ExtUSB
Plus the cable I got with my Tilt works just like a Standard USB cable so I don't think there is an issue. But what I'd like to see is the Numbers. Using the "HTC USB Sync cable" and a standard USB cable what amps are being sent. And What does the Device Prefer?
It can't use the name mini usb if it's not mini usb. I have a zippy belkin mini usb and it works greeeeat.
stanGib said:
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just make sure that your car charger has a fuse. If needed, change the fuse to a lower type (one that is just above the recommended for the Tilt, .5a is what I think it draws at). This will protect it from spikes when you start the car.
Scott_F said:
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've used so many different types of USB cables and/or chargers on my Tilt. I have not once had an issue. Just make sure the power ratings are correct and you're good.
Whilst I normally subscribe to the view that the HTC branded part is no better than a decent quality 3rd party part, I have had issues with non-HTC chargers.
I manage the BlackBerries at work, and have tried numerous BB miniUSB chargers (The one with the cord hard wired and the one which is effectively a mains plug to female USB) and neither work with my Kaiser.
I also had issues with car cigarette lighter to USB adapters. As soon as I obtained an official HTC car charger, all the problems went away.
Scott_F said:
...
I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't supply more current then the device can consume. The number on the charger just shows the highest value of a current the charger can produce without dropping the voltage.
I bought a Cell phone & USB charging kit from BestBuy today and my Tilt got fried when I connected it to this charger after the car had already started. I just noticed the charger output is 5.3V 0.5A whereas the battery pack is only 3.7V ???
hey improtant question. i think that the usb port in the kaiser actually dose get messed up using other chargers. i belive this becouse i used to be able to charge with any charger like some of you but now only htc's charger works. and that sucks but whatever the bad part is the headphones downt work any more. cany any one else that has to use htc's charger confirm that the headphones no longer work?
I've seen issues with various chargers (including one for the Dopod 838pro, Motorolla, and no-name car chargers), where I've seen it not activate the charging mode on the PDA intermittently. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to conclusively rule out that the HTC original chargers will work 100% of the time either, since that particular Tilt unit wasn't mine.
Also for some reason, I've had this accessory fail to connect to the headphones port after using it for a while (with a car charger connected). Fortunately, i had bought a few (for myself and others), and the port on the HTC is still working. So maybe you can try another headphone accessory and see if it's really the port on the HTC that is dead.
From my personal experience, testing, and reading on these forums, it appears that there are three conditions that need to be satisfied for reliable use of the USB port:
First - The Mechanical Fit
Standard mini-USB connecters DO NOT fit the same as the HTC extended USB implementation. To address this, I use the HTC signal splitter (headphone+charger/sync) on almost all standard USB cables for chargeing. It's fully compliant with the HTC in all ways and has added benefits. (see below)
Second - Pinout
The charging circuit in the Tilt (and others) can be finicky with regard to whether or not it works using a standard USB cable. The HTC splitter solves that and allows slow charging from virtually any USB compliant source. I also have the adapter from http://www.pocketpctechs.com/ in my car that even allows you to select the fast charge or slow charge pinout via a switch. (VERY COOL) This works great because I'm usually looking for the fast charge in the car. (Note... fast charge is disabled when transferring data via USB)
Third - Electrical Spec
Voltage is 5V for all USB outputs. Spikes generated in a car are pretty tough to transmit past the step down circuit/ic in the auto USB power adapters. I have never heard of a device being damaged by a spike from the car via one of these adapters. The chip itself would fail to open before frying the USB power client (aka the Phone).
Current draw for these phones is 0.5A for slow charging and around 1A+ for fast charging. This is determined by the pinout of the cable you are using. Slow charge is the default on all data type cables. Some cables sold as "charging cables" enable the fast charge. (The PPC Techs cable has the switch to do this) I recommend using at least 750mA chargers to allow the phone to have enough current to run the gps, bluetooth, etc with the screen brightness turned up and still have a small excess trickle to charge the battery.
I hope this summary helps a bit.
Cheers!
I have the HTC orginal car charger with Mini-USB connector. This car charger has and intelligent chip "IC" to prevent overheating when charge is 100%
Now, HD2 has a MICRO connector. My question is, if I use it with a mini-to-micro converter, will this "IC" feature continue working?
Talking about this:
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And this:
wat, IC stands for integrated circuit.
Also, the charging mechanism to prevent overcharging or damage to batteries is on the device (phone) not the adapter.
Yes, the phone sends the "charged" signal, adapter receives it and stops charging and turns light indicator off.
What I am saying is that maybe the mini to micro converter will prevent that signal to be sent and hence continue charging/overheating?
Hello,i've the same thing and it works fine . All pins are connected in the adaptator .
pckshd said:
Yes, the phone sends the "charged" signal, adapter receives it and stops charging and turns light indicator off.
What I am saying is that maybe the mini to micro converter will prevent that signal to be sent and hence continue charging/overheating?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no it's the phone that's drawing the current, not the adapter. Adapter is a "dumb" servant that serves current upon request.
the converter is just a wiring converter so again ther'es no intelligence involved.
Thank you!
I have 2 of that EXACT converters shown in the photo above... IT DOES NOT WORK!!!
For some reason, my phone will not charge when I use that adaptor... I also bought a Motorola one which works well
Thanks for the info!. Will get the Motorola converter as well...
This one right? http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-SKN6252-Sprint-Motorola-Renegade/dp/B0012DRDH2
pckshd said:
Thanks for the info!. Will get the Motorola converter as well...
This one right? http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-SKN6252-Sprint-Motorola-Renegade/dp/B0012DRDH2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup That one works fine and data works also... you can charge and sync with it
I have this
and cant sync with it, only charge, and i dont know why, because all pin are connect in two sides.
Guys,
I use Motorola P513 microUSB car charger. It works like a charm. After fully charged HD2 disconnects from it so there's no possibility to overheating. I really recommend it. An it looks fancy too
http://www.motorola.com/Consumers/U...gers/P513-microUSB-Car-Charger-89143N-US-EN-2
Price about $14 in Poland
psdos said:
I have this
and cant sync with it, only charge, and i dont know why, because all pin are connect in two sides.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude... 1 have two of those and they both wont charge... not in car, via charger or anywhere else.... I was so pissed off as I got two of them... thank goodness for the Motorola one I ordered as a backup. That one even allows sync
THe one showing in the picture... when I plug it on the cable with the other end in the cigarette lighter adaptor, the cigaretter indicator light goes out on that end as if a circuit has been cut.... this happens even without anything plugged in and happens with both adaptors I bought... nothing charges also.... pissed me off!
from what i see that is also a surge protector. 8v to 3v, being a surge protector, it has a capacitor inside, and that will naturally block all data connection.
eskasi said:
... thank goodness for the Motorola one I ordered as a backup. That one even allows sync
....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you provide a link to that motorola adaptor ?
I have searched Ebay and all the adaptors I found, specify they can only charge the phone, but not transfer data.
For some of them I also asked the sellers, and they said just the same - Charge ONLY.
Thanks
Som30ne said:
Could you provide a link to that motorola adaptor ?
I have searched Ebay and all the adaptors I found, specify they can only charge the phone, but not transfer data.
For some of them I also asked the sellers, and they said just the same - Charge ONLY.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-MicroUSB-Adapter-RAZR2-SKN6252/dp/B001EJFZ5G
This is the one... as long as it looks like this... I am using it right now as I type this
Thanks for the reply.
I tried checking where and how they ship - and (as in many other cases) it seems they only shim within the US.
Since Im not in the US . . .
Is there any other one ?
About the comment that says - "as long as it looks like this" - well - I saw several of them, and as I mentioned in my previous post - they specify that they (the ones I saw) only charges the device, and when I asked the seller - they aslo claimed that it's only for charging, and does not transfer data.
(maybe they look the same on the outside, but the wiring is different ? - I wonder)
Be careful.
By the time you plug a mini USB plug into such an micro adapter, the potential leverage on the phone / micro socket will be quite considerable!
Why? What do you mean exactly?
The above one piece adaptor together with the charger's Mini USB plug is similarly rigid & I'm guessing about 2½ to 3 inches long - maybe 10 to 12 times the length of the actual micro socket! Some 10:1 leverage ratio. Maybe 3 times as much as without an adaptor.
I doubt that the design spec of a USB micro socket was ever designed to withstand the potential force that even mild accidental input leverage applied at a right angle would exert, on conversion to output leverage, on the phone's socket. For example, the leads tend to be 1 metre and are quite restricting. with the lead at right angles to the phone, 'testing' the cables length, the 'moment of force' (technical term) applied is likely to exceed the the design spec of the socket many fold.
I am suggesting there is a risk of separating the socket from the phone's chassis and/or its electrical connections to the printed circuit board within the phone.
At the vary least, due to the cables inherent stiffness, over a period of time the phones micro socket will get enlarged / bell shaped simply from small gentle leverage movements. IE. whilst USB connected, simply picking up the phone, messaging, or making a call. Eventually electrical / mechanical connections will gradually fail.
To reduce, but not eliminate this effect, I would suggest an adaptor cable as opposed to a one piece adaptor.
(Think I've waffled a bit here, but hope I've conveyed what I mean)
Problem, Samsung?
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Recipe:
1 dock connector from Kineteka
2 10k ohm resistors - needs to be 20k, a single 22k is too much
1 donor USB extender cable
Various heat shrink, tape, etc to taste
Pinout here. With the connector plugged into the Tab, and the Tab oriented with the chat camera on top and the connector on bottom, pin 1 is to the left of the connector.
Chop off the plug end of the extender, separate out the wires, cut / strip / tin. Cut off the shield. Slide on the plastic shroud for the dock plug and a piece of heat shrink for strain relief. Don't forget this or you'll have to undo the whole thing (like I did). You might also want to cut thin heat shrink to go around each wire to protect it from shorting at the connector pins.
Solder the two resistors in series and put them between pins 13 and 15. This tells the Tab to go into OTG host mode. Be creative. Surface mount parts might be better here.
Solder:
ground (black) to pin 1
green (D+) to pin 3
white (D-) to pin 4
red (+5V) to pin 6
Test this out before shrinking the pins by plugging into the Tab along with a USB key. If it works, you should get the message above.
Once it works, put the connector shield, spring clip, and shroud on.
All said and done, this comes out to about half the price of the Samsung adapter, but at the expense of some elbow grease and potential unreliability. I expect clones will be showing up on eBay someday though, so if I've done anything useful here it's to entice our friends in China to start their assembly lines.
Clean it up and start selling them imo.
mbh87 said:
Clean it up and start selling them imo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Better?
Taken before I have to ugly it up with a bit of hot glue. The connector housing is too shallow to fit the resistors and make a good strain relief with heat shrink. I also noticed that the retainer ring that holds the housing together pops right off when you unplug the connector. A little super glue needs to go there too.
Nice job dude specially since they are taking forever to release the damn thing
Lol. This is awesome goodjob. Might have to try this out
Well played
I'll give this a shot
i'm hoping that the connector can allow you to utilise many of the pins at once.. i'm thinking of designing an all in one connector that has USB host/OTG connectivity and allows me to charge the device and still allows me to use HDMI/component video out
time_shock said:
i'm hoping that the connector can allow you to utilise many of the pins at once.. i'm thinking of designing an all in one connector that has USB host/OTG connectivity and allows me to charge the device and still allows me to use HDMI/component video out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will pay you infinity for that, give you my firstborn, whatever you want. But seriously, what use is a "media dock" if you can't charge while I are passing hdmi thru.
Back on topic, nice job OP, that is my new weekend project
Nice job.
Since I don't have a galaxy tab 10.1 . I have an idea :
Is it possible to use female female usb adapter for the GT ?
does any GT10.1 owner verify whether or not this method is working?
nemir said:
Nice job.
Since I don't have a galaxy tab 10.1 . I have an idea :
Is it possible to use female female usb adapter for the GT ?
does any GT10.1 owner verify whether or not this method is working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, won't work. With this you won't get the 5V power from the tablet, and you won't have the resistor on the ID pin to tell it to go into OTG mode. I suppose you could provide your own 5V power to the device, and hack the kernel to force it into OTG. But that's probably as much trouble as building a cable anyway.
This is awesome! Do you know if it will handle only one item at a time or could you hook a hub to it and run like a hard drive and keyboard at the same time?
ericlmccormick said:
This is awesome! Do you know if it will handle only one item at a time or could you hook a hub to it and run like a hard drive and keyboard at the same time?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haven't tried a hub yet, but I'll do so when I get home later. The Transformer has multiple ports on its dock so presumably that should be ok. There is a power budget limit though, since I got a dock warning about overcurrent when I tried a USB powered hard drive. A powered hub might fix that.
If you create a cable that charges the Tab while using it in host mode, you could probably pull the power off the charging cable instead of from the accessory pin.
If doing that, might want a selector switch or diode to keep current from flowing into the accessory pin.
I ordered a few of the 30pin connectors yesterday and I am starting my designing now for my "docking station". I am trying to figure out if I will have 1 or 4 USBs on it.
pokey9000 said:
Haven't tried a hub yet, but I'll do so when I get home later. The Transformer has multiple ports on its dock so presumably that should be ok. There is a power budget limit though, since I got a dock warning about overcurrent when I tried a USB powered hard drive. A powered hub might fix that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Omg thankyou so much, I've been waiting for this. i was missing the two 10 ohm resistors!!!!!
Already cut up a USB and galaxy cable trying this..
will try this when i get home. im at work. let you know what i find
pokey9000 said:
Problem, Samsung?
...
Recipe:
1 dock connector from Kineteka
2 10k ohm resistors - needs to be 20k, a single 22k is too much
1 donor USB extender cable
Various heat shrink, tape, etc to taste
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why you didn't you use one 20K 2% ohm resistor instead of two 10K ohm?
joedoe said:
Why you didn't you use one 20K 2% ohm resistor instead of two 10K ohm?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't have a 20k resistor on hand, and 20k isn't a common value in smaller resistor kits. The most readily available values in the 10k range are usually 10k, 22k, and 47k.
pokey9000 said:
Haven't tried a hub yet, but I'll do so when I get home later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure enough, with a powered hub I can hook up a USB stick, a USB powered hard drive, and a mouse. I tried a USB audio adapter as well as a 360 wireless controller via the PC USB wireless adapter, both were unrecognized. I think I remember hearing that the latter was explicitly unsupported, though I figured I'd try.
Disks show up in /sdcard/usbstorage/sda /sdb ... for as many drives as you plug in.
pokey9000 said:
Sure enough, with a powered hub I can hook up a USB stick, a USB powered hard drive, and a mouse. I tried a USB audio adapter as well as a 360 wireless controller via the PC USB wireless adapter, both were unrecognized. I think I remember hearing that the latter was explicitly unsupported, though I figured I'd try.
Disks show up in /sdcard/usbstorage/sda /sdb ... for as many drives as you plug in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So does HDMI share any of the same pins as the USB? I ask because I am gonna piece together a hub and then add an HDMI cable to that, and then plug that into the media dock, and then it will be a true dock. Just need to get power for charging involved in that mix
can you try hooking up an usb microphone? I'd like to see if they will work and how well. I have a samson go mic that I wouldnt mind using as a recording tool.
Doesnt the orginal galaxy tab's hdmi dock work on the 10.1 i saw vidos of it working on the google io version should be easy to add a switch and usb to it
I've misplaced my wall charger for my 8.9, I'm trying to build one at work. I know it's 5 volts at 2 amps, but my question is, are the data lines crossed like on the Charger for the Captivate? Thanks.
Well, Shorting the TX/RX lines didn't trigger 2amp charging.
Are you running a stock kernel ?
You'll need to be running Motleys kernel or CM9/AOKP for usb charging
I'm running Motleys kernel.
It was only pulling .5 amp with the data pins, open and shorted.
did you run the script to enable USB charging ?
There's a widget someone made on the 10.1 that does the scriptydoodah bit for you, I'll have a poke around and see if I can find the post
Edit - Can't find the post, but here's the widget apk
Can't credit who it was that made it, when I can find the post though I'll edit this with the credit
Interesting. So the CM9/AOKP kernels support USB charging?
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But by default will it only pull in 0.5amp? I use the tablet in my car and right now it discharges (slowly) when it is docked.
Will the script change that so I don't need to take the tablet inside once a week and charge it?
ghost__ said:
But by default will it only pull in 0.5amp? I use the tablet in my car and right now it discharges (slowly) when it is docked.
Will the script change that so I don't need to take the tablet inside once a week and charge it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I thought it was like with the captivate(they cross the datalines and then the device knows its on the charger), but no.
Flan, the apk linked, I downloaded, it but it won't parse?
That is incredibly disappointing. I never used the stock and always just assumed that this was an issue that was related to AOKP and would go away once Samsung released their official ICS build.
muffdoc said:
Yes, I thought it was like with the captivate(they cross the datalines and then the device knows its on the charger), but no.
Flan, the apk linked, I downloaded, it but it won't parse?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very odd, worked on both stock with Motley's kernel and as you can see works on CM9, that was using the stock charger lead but lugged into the USB port of my laptop, it does charge slower, but certainly puts in more than it's using
No worries mate.
I have the script on the tab already, the widget would of been cool, but I just threw it on the charger and I don't get the red slash over the battery when I have it connected, so shorting the data lines, may have done the trick.
I'm also wondering if I connect the two USB ports together, would I be able to pass data between my Cappy and the 8.9, like a crossover cable and to PC's and no hub.
Damn my rambling mind.
I have stock 3.2 Rom with _motley kernel and my USB charging works for some reason, without any scripts... Like, when I turn the screen off, it goes upto 100%, but as I turn the screen on it is slowly draining the battery to a certain point.
Yes because when it is connected via USB the tablet only requests 0.5amps of power but when the screen is on + wifi + BT, etc the tablet uses more power than it is bringing in. Therefore, despite it reporting that it is charging it is actually draining the battery.
What are you charging it off ?
I left mine plugged into my laptop overnight with wifi, gps and BT all turned on and it charged fully in 8 hours
Deal Extreme charger
I use china adapter as an extra. SKU: 115525 at deal extreme. The one loader that doens't make my tablet nag it isn't charging when on.
muffdoc said:
Well, Shorting the TX/RX lines didn't trigger 2amp charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I also found that shorting these lines did not enable the 2amp charging mode. Also I found that many chargers are designed to charge Apple devices and they put 2V on one data pin and 2.8V on the other, but this also will not enable 2amp charging on the Samsung 8.9. It turns out that the Samsung charger puts both data pins were at about 1.2V which is necessary to cause the Galaxy tab to report its status as "Charging (AC)".
I built an adapter cable (see attached schematic and pictures) which insures that the data pins are at the expected 1.2V. With this cable in place the Galaxy tablet reports its status as "Charging (AC)" when I hook it up to any of my high current wall or auto chargers regardless of which device the charger was designed for.
~Paul
also you can read my tests here
Hi.
My galaxy tab s2 charging very slowly. It takes about 3 days to full charge.
I allready try 15 or more chargers and cabels (including original).
I format and delete cache files
I downgrade to android 6.0.1
I replace the charging port
The only thing i don't do is to replace the battery, but the battery (when finally get charged) drain like normal.
Please help i really dont have anymore ideas.
Thank you!
I have this also. Had slow charging for months. The first time samsung fixed it and sent me a new charger. The second time i was out of warranty so i replaced the charging port myself, tried many different chargers and cables and can't figure it out. It charges really really slow.
leyvatron said:
I have this also. Had slow charging for months. The first time samsung fixed it and sent me a new charger. The second time i was out of warranty so i replaced the charging port myself, tried many different chargers and cables and can't figure it out. It charges really really slow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I charge with my Moto fast charger and it seems to charge it faster than the Samsung one.
jahciple said:
I charge with my Moto fast charger and it seems to charge it faster than the Samsung one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if you have slow charging issue, the tablet gives you a warning to use the original charger to charge it fast. If you don't get the notification of slow charging, then your tablet doesn't have any charging issues.
update: i replaced the charging port and the battery. but still no luck. the percentages keep dropping when my fast charger is connected
i'm out of ideas so if someone have some thoughts i'm listening.
Itamar1239 said:
update: i replaced the charging port and the battery. but still no luck. the percentages keep dropping when my fast charger is connected
i'm out of ideas so if someone have some thoughts i'm listening.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wanted to call Samsung and asked them what they fixed when I sent it to them when it was on warranty.
leyvatron said:
I wanted to call Samsung and asked them what they fixed when I sent it to them when it was on warranty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
now the battery stops charging at 22% (it takes 1 day to charge to 22% lol)
if you call samsung please let me know what they said.
thank you.
Itamar1239 said:
now the battery stops charging at 22% (it takes 1 day to charge to 22% lol)
if you call samsung please let me know what they said.
thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?
leyvatron said:
did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did.
And like i said i even replace the battery
But still no luck.
I suspect that some chip on the motherboard is not working right, but that just guessing.
Any more ideas are more than welcome
Itamar1239 said:
I did.
And like i said i even replace the battery
But still no luck.
I suspect that some chip on the motherboard is not working right, but that just guessing.
Any more ideas are more than welcome
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also out of ideas myself
As I wrote on samsungboard recently;
"I have tried multiple cables*(that work fine with all other phones - Samsung S7/Galaxy tab S2 9.7/Sony etc)
I have tried multiple chargers (Samsung quick charge as well as Samsung standard and Anker 6 port charger)
Tried changing the USB mode (*#0808#)
I have tried resetting device (long press vol up/down/power)
When connecting device to PC to use Odin to downgrade it is not even seen by Windows 10 (again it only charges albeit slowly - this to me is an indication that D+/D- are not handled correctly by the PMIC sw which in my mind is the root cause of this whole issue).
"
https:// us. community.samsung.com/t5/forums/v3_1/forumtopicpage/board-id/tablets/thread-id/1961/page/5
I also see in devops bugreport-xxxx.txt cable type is 4 and wire_status 4;
<6>[16050.764777] [c1] sec-battery battery.27: sec_bat_set_property: current_cable(4), wc_status(0), wire_status(4)
<6>[16050.764884] [c0] sec-battery battery.27: sec_bat_cable_work: Start
<6>[16050.764904] [c0] sec-battery battery.27: sec_bat_cable_work: Cable is NOT Changed(4)
<6>[16050.767168] [c1] sii8240: detection restarted
<6>[16050.767187] [c1] of_sii8240_hw_reset()
<6>[16050.769768] [c1] sec_chg_get_property: slow-charging mode
Whereas in kernel/kmsg logs cable type is 1;
<6>[ 4.613200] [c6] sec_chg_get_property: Charger Cable type : 1
Skickat från min BLA-L29 via Tapatalk
luckeb said:
As I wrote on samsungboard recently;
"I have tried multiple cables*(that work fine with all other phones - Samsung S7/Galaxy tab S2 9.7/Sony etc)
I have tried multiple chargers (Samsung quick charge as well as Samsung standard and Anker 6 port charger)
Tried changing the USB mode (*#0808#)
I have tried resetting device (long press vol up/down/power)
When connecting device to PC to use Odin to downgrade it is not even seen by Windows 10 (again it only charges albeit slowly - this to me is an indication that D+/D- are not handled correctly by the PMIC sw which in my mind is the root cause of this whole issue).
"
https:// us. community.samsung.com/t5/forums/v3_1/forumtopicpage/board-id/tablets/thread-id/1961/page/5
I also see in devops bugreport-xxxx.txt cable type is 4 and wire_status 4;
<6>[16050.764777] [c1] sec-battery battery.27: sec_bat_set_property: current_cable(4), wc_status(0), wire_status(4)
<6>[16050.764884] [c0] sec-battery battery.27: sec_bat_cable_work: Start
<6>[16050.764904] [c0] sec-battery battery.27: sec_bat_cable_work: Cable is NOT Changed(4)
<6>[16050.767168] [c1] sii8240: detection restarted
<6>[16050.767187] [c1] of_sii8240_hw_reset()
<6>[16050.769768] [c1] sec_chg_get_property: slow-charging mode
Whereas in kernel/kmsg logs cable type is 1;
<6>[ 4.613200] [c6] sec_chg_get_property: Charger Cable type : 1
Skickat från min BLA-L29 via Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank for the info.
Like I said, I sent in my tablet to Samsung when it was under warranty with the original white samsung charger and they sent the tablet back with a slower charging black samsung charger. I have exchange the usb port, tried different cables and plugs, tried resetting, etc... and nothing has worked.
Keep us updated on what happens. :good:
leyvatron said:
thank for the info.
Like I said, I sent in my tablet to Samsung when it was under warranty with the original white samsung charger and they sent the tablet back with a slower charging black samsung charger. I have exchange the usb port, tried different cables and plugs, tried resetting, etc... and nothing has worked.
Keep us updated on what happens. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, Charging cable from Cambridge Soundworks Oontz angle 2 has worked for me.
hi Guys!!!!!!!! i too had the same problem stated above and i got the reason of it in youtube and here is the link of the video:
and this video tells that we need to replace the IC of the device where this problem is very common in most of samsung galaxy tab s2's
vjackaadhitya said:
hi Guys!!!!!!!! i too had the same problem stated above and i got the reason of it in youtube and here is the link of the video:
and this video tells that we need to replace the QC of the device where this problem is very common in most of samsung galaxy tab s2's
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not something most people can do... successfully. These are the hardest type of ICs to replace. A precision temp controlled hot air station with the skillset to use it is required. Full ESD protocols need to followed. You can easily destroy the multilayered PCB if you don't do it right... you get one shot at it.
I have T715Y, and it's really slow to charge. The current monitor show that it only pull 0.45A. The charger itself capable of supplying more than 2A on other device.
On the tablet, I try to monitor the current internally, and it said it connect to usb powered, not ac powered, and I already tried swapping other chargers. Maybe that's why it's only pulling half amps. Tried cleaning the charging port with some isoprophil alcohol and pinset, nothing change. Maybe I need to swap the charging port, but searching it in 2021 was hard.
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@xdanubi it shouldn't use AC as batteries are only being charged by DC.
xdanubi said:
I have T715Y, and it's really slow to charge. The current monitor show that it only pull 0.45A. The charger itself capable of supplying more than 2A on other device.
On the tablet, I try to monitor the current internally, and it said it connect to usb powered, not ac powered, and I already tried swapping other chargers. Maybe that's why it's only pulling half amps. Tried cleaning the charging port with some isoprophil alcohol and pinset, nothing change. Maybe I need to swap the charging port, but searching it in 2021 was hard.
View attachment 5389291
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the device is in use it will likely skew the charging curve and not draw as much as with the screen off. If you turn the display on and read within a second or less while charging you can probably see what it's actually drawing screen off.
Or simply count how many seconds it takes to charge 1% or minutes to charge to 10%, etc.
If the battery capacity has dropped more than 80% of it's original capacity it's time to replace it before it fails.
Any battery swelling is a failure, replace asap.
Erratic charging can indicate a failure as well.
A sudden drop in capacity indicates a failure.
It could simply be a failed battery.
A battery will last roughly 1-3 years depending how it's used/conditions ie temperature and time it's at near 100%.
My S2 started exhibiting this problem too. Basically it won't pull more than 450 ma from the charger. I discovered that with a custom charge cable that shorts the usb lines together, I was able to get it to draw about 1.5 amps @ 5v. You can get a little more if you supply it with a little more volts (5.5 for instance).
Currently i am using a bench power suppy connected to a micro usb tail that has the dp dm lines tied together.
I have some usb c female breakouts coming from amazon today that I will solder on to my custom micro usb tail which will hopefully allow me to charge it from my 6 port vogek charger.
I agree that it most likely had an IC go bad but replacing that is a MAJOR under taking. 1.5 amps is enough that it will still get about 1 amp charge while your actively using it so theoretically it should go from 0 to 100% in 5.8 hours. Less if you power it down. Good enough!
trnexus01234 said:
My S2 started exhibiting this problem too. Basically it won't pull more than 450 ma from the charger. I discovered that with a custom charge cable that shorts the usb lines together, I was able to get it to draw about 1.5 amps @ 5v. You can get a little more if you supply it with a little more volts (5.5 for instance).
Currently i am using a bench power suppy connected to a micro usb tail that has the dp dm lines tied together.
I have some usb c female breakouts coming from amazon today that I will solder on to my custom micro usb tail which will hopefully allow me to charge it from my 6 port vogek charger.
I agree that it most likely had an IC go bad but replacing that is a MAJOR under taking. 1.5 amps is enough that it will still get about 1 amp charge while your actively using it so theoretically it should go from 0 to 100% in 5.8 hours. Less if you power it down. Good enough!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is your experience so far? Does your custom cable work? If yes can you please be more specific how to construct it? There are many users with the same problem!