Related
I've search about this,but I find only questions without proper answer.
Some answers are correct but not clear enough,at least for me (at that time).
So I decided to create this thread to help others who get the same problem with me.
WARNING:
Using Soldering Iron is required.
Don't do this if you are not used to a soldering iron.
Or you can ask someone with the capability using this guide.
THE PROBLEM:
Audio Jack/cable is somewhat broken or audio somewhat has noise or no audio at all.
THE SOLUTIONS:
Buy a new headset
Fix it yourself
To fix it yourself you need to know 3 things:
Where the damage(s) is(are).
Type of Jack
Wiring Diagram
Locating the damage:
Open the remote control using your finger nail.
Use a Multimeter (set it to resistance meter) to locate which connection is broken.
(Follow the Multimeter link if you don't know what it is).
If you/your parents don't have a Multimeter, try using a small light bulb (1.5volt),an AA battery, a piece of PVC pipe (the length of the battery) & 2 pieces of cable (15 cm / 6 inches each would be enough).
Try to build a flashlight with that,but use the other cable as a tester by connecting it to only 1 side of the battery.
If the broken part is/are the earpiece part,then you are lucky
It's easier to fix & there is someone already posting about it here.
Else...some soldering is needed.
You'll need 3.5mm TRRS Jack (not the ordinary TRS jack)
Cut the Jack part & peel the cable.
You'll find 6 wires after peeling the cable.
Check it first (using a Multimeter) if the wires are not the broken part.
If the wire(s) is(are) the broken part,You'll need a cable with the same structure (6 wires/sub cables inside)
Fixing:
Jack Diagram:
1 2 3 4 ______
< = = =|______|-------> Cable
Tip --> Left Channel
First Ring --> Right Channel
Second Ring --> Ground
Sleeve --> Microphone
Wiring Diagram:
Green --> Left Channel (+)
Red --> Right Channel (+)
Blue --> Right Channel (-),
Red-Blue(inside the shielded one) -->Left Channel(-),
Copper --> Microphone (-)
White --> Microphone (+)
Solder the wire sequentially according to both diagrams.
It work very nice,even the remote control
I hope it helps
Up Up & away
d4rkkn16ht said:
I've search about this,but I find only questions without proper answer.
Some answers are correct but not clear enough,at least for me (at that time).
So I decided to create this thread to help others who get the same problem with me.
WARNING:
Using Soldering Iron is required.
Don't do this if you are not used to a soldering iron.
Or you can ask someone with the capability using this guide.
THE PROBLEM:
Audio Jack/cable is somewhat broken or audio somewhat has noise or no audio at all.
THE SOLUTIONS:
Buy a new headset
Fix it yourself
To fix it yourself you need to know 3 things:
Where the damage(s) is(are).
Type of Jack
Wiring Diagram
Locating the damage:
Open the remote control using your finger nail.
Use a Multimeter (set it to resistance meter) to locate which connection is broken.
(Follow the Multimeter link if you don't know what it is).
If you/your parents don't have a Multimeter, try using a small light bulb (1.5volt),an AA battery, a piece of PVC pipe (the length of the battery) & 2 pieces of cable (15 cm / 6 inches each would be enough).
Try to build a flashlight with that,but use the other cable as a tester by connecting it to only 1 side of the battery.
If the broken part is/are the earpiece part,then you are lucky
It's easier to fix & there is someone already posting about it here.
Else...some soldering is needed.
You'll need 3.5mm TRRS Jack (not the ordinary TRS jack)
Cut the Jack part & peel the cable.
You'll find 6 wires after peeling the cable.
Check it first (using a Multimeter) if the wires are not the broken part.
If the wire(s) is(are) the broken part,You'll need a cable with the same structure (6 wires/sub cables inside)
Fixing:
Jack Diagram:
1 2 3 4 ______
< = = =|______|-------> Cable
Tip --> Left Channel
First Ring --> Right Channel
Second Ring --> Ground
Sleeve --> Microphone
Wiring Diagram:
Green --> Left Channel (+)
Red --> Right Channel (+)
Blue --> Right Channel (-),
Red-Blue(inside the shielded one) -->Left Channel(-),
Copper --> Microphone (-)
White --> Microphone (+)
Solder the wire sequentially according to both diagrams.
It work very nice,even the remote control
I hope it helps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much Sir.
d4rkkn16ht said:
[*]Open the remote control using your finger nail.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is this remote control you speak of?
d4rkkn16ht said:
[*]You'll need 3.5mm TRRS Jack (not the ordinary TRS jack)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where would I get such a thing?
Hagenlund said:
What is this remote control you speak of?
Where would I get such a thing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm assuming he is speaking of the in-line remote/amplifier/vol.control most "gaming headsets" come with.*
Quick Google search of "trrs" shot me to Amazon.com :good:
thanks, worked like a charm
Domba333 said:
thanks, worked like a charm
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot.
d4rkkn16ht said:
I've search about this,but I find only questions without proper answer.
Some answers are correct but not clear enough,at least for me (at that time).
So I decided to create this thread to help others who get the same problem with me.
WARNING:
Using Soldering Iron is required.
Don't do this if you are not used to a soldering iron.
Or you can ask someone with the capability using this guide.
THE PROBLEM:
Audio Jack/cable is somewhat broken or audio somewhat has noise or no audio at all.
THE SOLUTIONS:
Buy a new headset
Fix it yourself
To fix it yourself you need to know 3 things:
Where the damage(s) is(are).
Type of Jack
Wiring Diagram
Locating the damage:
Open the remote control using your finger nail.
Use a Multimeter (set it to resistance meter) to locate which connection is broken.
(Follow the Multimeter link if you don't know what it is).
If you/your parents don't have a Multimeter, try using a small light bulb (1.5volt),an AA battery, a piece of PVC pipe (the length of the battery) & 2 pieces of cable (15 cm / 6 inches each would be enough).
Try to build a flashlight with that,but use the other cable as a tester by connecting it to only 1 side of the battery.
If the broken part is/are the earpiece part,then you are lucky
It's easier to fix & there is someone already posting about it here.
Else...some soldering is needed.
You'll need 3.5mm TRRS Jack (not the ordinary TRS jack)
Cut the Jack part & peel the cable.
You'll find 6 wires after peeling the cable.
Check it first (using a Multimeter) if the wires are not the broken part.
If the wire(s) is(are) the broken part,You'll need a cable with the same structure (6 wires/sub cables inside)
Fixing:
Jack Diagram:
1 2 3 4 ______
< = = =|______|-------> Cable
Tip --> Left Channel
First Ring --> Right Channel
Second Ring --> Ground
Sleeve --> Microphone
Wiring Diagram:
Green --> Left Channel (+)
Red --> Right Channel (+)
Blue --> Right Channel (-),
Red-Blue(inside the shielded one) -->Left Channel(-),
Copper --> Microphone (-)
White --> Microphone (+)
Solder the wire sequentially according to both diagrams.
It work very nice,even the remote control
I hope it helps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm confused with the Wiring diagram in [3] in my case is only the Blue color.So i have to skip this line Red-Blue(inside the shielded one) -->Left Channel(-),Is that so?? I have 4 wires viz. Green, Red,Blue and Copper. Please clarify me if i am wrong.
khup said:
I'm confused with the Wiring diagram in [3] in my case is only the Blue color.So i have to skip this line Red-Blue(inside the shielded one) -->Left Channel(-),Is that so?? I have 4 wires viz. Green, Red,Blue and Copper. Please clarify me if i am wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is yours an original HTC handsfree?
every channel should have a pair of (+) & (-) and the original HTC handsfree has 3 channel (left,right & mic/remote)
d4rkkn16ht said:
is yours an original HTC handsfree?
every channel should have a pair of (+) & (-) and the original HTC handsfree has 3 channel (left,right & mic/remote)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it is the original one, it comes with the Box. Left=Green , Right=Red , Ground=Blue & Mic=Copper . Is this how i should connect?? I am still confused as there are only 4 wires.
khup said:
I think it is the original one, it comes with the Box. Left=Green , Right=Red , Ground=Blue & Mic=Copper . Is this how i should connect?? I am still confused as there are only 4 wires.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what else would you like to solder if there are physically only 4 parts (4 circles on jack). there could be - (grounds)of speakers, which should be soldered with - (ground) of the jack.
yaro666 said:
what else would you like to solder if there are physically only 4 parts (4 circles on jack). there could be - (grounds)of speakers, which should be soldered with - (ground) of the jack.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ground=Blue.
All (-) = ground
You can combine all (-) & solder them together to the GROUND part of the jack
Hey there, looks like an amazing tuto but I'm having some problems with it, hope someone can give me a hand here.
I have this g-cube headphones with mic, and as you can see, they don't seem to have a "twisted" copper-white cable, or maybe I'm loosing something?
Pic attached shows just 4 cables with no way to un-twist any of them, Green, "Full-copper", Blue and Red.
I had to cut a bit more of this because on my first attempt, I tried to un-twist the copper one, it had some white fibers things, but no way to get two cables from it.
thanks alot
Sorry to bump this thread, but I want to check a few thing:
I want to wire this to a TRS plug (because I didn't buy a TRRS one, and, in the end, it doesn't matter, I only want to use the headphones, I don't even use microphone and remote).
Would this wiring work:
Red on right channel,
Green on left channel,
Blue and Red Blue on GND?
And I would leave other wires unwired / unconnected?
I don't want to mess something up, so I want to double check.
Thanks for the help in advance
^ Sounds right to me, just make sure the spare wires are capped so don't short on anything/cause interference .
Mister B said:
^ Sounds right to me, just make sure the spare wires are capped so don't short on anything/cause interference .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK great, thanks a lot.
My phone is a Samsung Galaxy S3, the wiring colours code is a bit different.
Mine has Red, Green, Black, and the last one has no skin.
It is Ok to assume that Red and Green are left and right in all headsets?
Which ones are Mic and Ground? I'm tempted to try the black as Mic and the no skin one as Ground.
Update
Well, the wire I took for no skin was the copper one, and It seems it is Ground, or maybe not, but It is the ring near the sleeve, and the Black wire go in the sleeve.
In my first attempt I soldered the Black and Copper in the wrong order, nothing terrible happened, but the volume was very low and when I pressed the auricular button the volume went to full only to come back to very low when the button was released. This gave me the clue that those two wires were switched then I re-soldered them in the correct order. Everything is fine now.
I believe that there is audio available from pins 27 & 28 of the main connector but you have to place a resistor between other pins to get it to work.
Does anyone know how to go about this?
And is the audio at full level to drive headphones or is it low level?
And do the internal speakers get turned off when the main connector is used?
Any help would be appreciated.
I don't have one yet but the video cable (rca not hdmi cable) should output sound, I think it would be "low"volume tho
I have the rca tv out cable. What exactly do you need to know?
While.it is plugged in, speakers turn off and out put volume is controlled by volume button.
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
ssserpentine said:
I have the rca tv out cable. What exactly do you need to know?
While.it is plugged in, speakers turn off and out put volume is controlled by volume button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have read in previous posts that connecting directly to pins 27 & 28 wont give you any audio out. Apparantly you have to put a resister between other pins to tell the Tab to output audio. This is what I'm not sure about. I have just ordered some plugs to do some testing from kineteka.com.
I want to make a lead that will charge the Tab & give me high level audio out.
I recently purchased an 30pin to RCA adaptor. Unfortunately it seems like my ROM (Paranoid Android 2.20) doesn't support it as it reboots the moment i connect it. Which ROM have you guys successfully used to for the RCA connector?
Hey everyone. I am about to start installing a Nexus 7 in my 2003 Ford Mustang.
Goals:
Easy removal of unit.
-Temperature is near zero at some points in winter and over 100 in summer.
-Use of hard case to hold unit in place, possibly mounted by a small variation in the shape of my stock stereo surround and the use of strong magnets. If that does not work, permanently mounting hard case to stereo bezel
-Use of double din space behind the mounted nexus for the EQ and my boost controller to go.
-Fabrication of pogo pin system for easy connection/disconnection, allowing for charging and usb hub support while nexus is in its "cradle". Adapter for micro usb > pogo, to help reduce wear on the micro usb port of the nexus.
Stock look
-if I don't like the look then I will try and fabricate something to surround the nexus while it is mounted.
-modifying the stereo bezel is not an issue, they are cheap to replace
- Clean wiring and functional placement of components
Better than stock function and sound
-USB sound card
-manual volume control (making a volume knob that controls EQ that is accessible)
- Radio (I don't use it but its a selling feature if I have to sell the car)
-easy access to peripherals in case something needs to be adjusted or replaced
-no alternator whine or sub standard sound just because it is a tablet, in fact it must be better than what I have now
-GPS!!!
-WARDRIVING!! (I do not have a smart phone, so internet will come from WIFI for now)
Less than $500 (cost of a high end stereo with far less capability, also less than a decent carputer setup)
Future plans
- possible megasquirt engine management that is tied into the device so that I do not have to lug my laptop around when I tune my car (it sucks and is dangerous to try and use windows while driving fast), plug into 4 different USB devices, and deal with crappy UI's
- at the very least, integration of all of the data my tuning components are giving without using a laptop. OBD II may or may not solve this.
Components I have purchased so far:
-Used - Like new Nexus 7 (2012) - $129.99
Amazon
-Behringer UCA202 USB Audio Interface - $29.99
-DROK 12A/100W 4.5-30V to 0.8-30V DC Buck Volt Converter Step Down 12V Car Power Supply Voltage Regulator - $15.89
-Sound Storm Laboratories S4EQ 4-Band Graphic Equalizer with Subwoofer Crossover, VOLUME CONTROL - $30.98
-Metra 95-5026 Double DIN Installation Kit (not sure if I need it yet) - $10.04
- ( 3 ) Boss Audio Systems Car Ground Loop Isolator (one for each output) - $23.64
-AmazonBasics USB 2.0 A-Male to A-Female Extension Cable (9.8 Feet/3.0 Meters) - $5.99
- Right Angle OTG Cable Adapter for all Micro USB - $5.50
-Fosmon Crystal Hard Case for Google Nexus 7 - $2.97
-(2) Harwin 4P Spring Probe Connector (pogo pin connector) - $6.48
-(2) Molex Male Micro USB B (specs say male version but I bet I get female) - $1.74
- (2) Hirose Male USB connector with cradle (in case above doesn't work) - $3.54
Still need:
USB Radio Receiver
Knob for volume control relocation
MISC (bondo or epoxy, wire, etc)
Apps, cracks, mods to make it all work
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
While there are a few well documented car installs, I think there is always room for another. The main thing that I hope to bring to the table is (hopefully) creating a reproducible way to make a quick disconnect connector from the pogo. I checked on patents, and there is one already, so even if I felt like it was worth it, I probably couldn't mass produce them. So now the technique will be in the public domain (hopefully). The adapter should work for any micro usb device. It could be adapted for different connectors, possibly even using the Nexus 10 connector to add audio to the dock. You could also use 2 of the 4 pogo connectors, 1 for audio and 1 for usb. Anyway.
I am waiting for stuff to arrive. I will update once it does.
1/21/14
Deliveries!
Bezel
Bezel pics. Just got the hard case in today. Nexus 7 tomorrow. School sucks this semester so this may go slow
im thinking of doing a similar one like yours for a while. I want to connect 2 cameras to the Nexus7, one for reverse, one for front( crash cam, would like it to constantly recording once the car is running) have you seen anyone have done it?
For the audio, im not very fussy. Just trying to mount the N7 with stock CD player on( it has an AUX in socket)
Newest
eason86 said:
im thinking of doing a similar one like yours for a while. I want to connect 2 cameras to the Nexus7, one for reverse, one for front( crash cam, would like it to constantly recording once the car is running) have you seen anyone have done it?
For the audio, im not very fussy. Just trying to mount the N7 with stock CD player on( it has an AUX in socket)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was looking at getting a couple of bluetooth HD webcams for front and rear like you are talking about. You could run a USB cable to both, or if you had a USB video card, a composite cable, but it seems easier to wire power at each location and use bluetooth. I would use the cameras for recording street racing, or if I ever take it to the track.
Just got the plastic for the case that will be behind the stereo. I bought Lexan at Lowes, and then realized that radioshack has the project boxes that they sell. The largest looks close to double din in width and height. It could be chopped up and then reformed using the glue that I bought for the lexan.
I also picked up the circuit boards from radioshack. a block of 4 of the pre-printed circuits is the same width as a usb end, which is what I was shooting for. The only issue is reducing wear on the contacts. I have a couple of ideas, including getting a cheap flash card and using that to make the circuit. 4 contacts on a flash card are the same width as a usb end as well (the plastic). The contacts for the flash card are made for wear, so it may be a better option.
Lexan was $3.98 a sheet I think, I bought 2. It is enough to make a box from. Plastic glue was ~$5.98 a tube x2. so ~$12.
Circuit was like $3.00, some solder and screws for mounting, total was ~$8. I am going to make the box tonight and glue it up.
NEXUS CAME TODAY! Only thing left is the USB/POGO parts.
Update
Been working on the bezel and the connectors the past few days in between homework. I finished the connector and has been epoxied into the bezel. Starting to come together. I took a lot of time working on the alignment of the connector as it slips into the bezel. The nexus does not move up and down really, but I still tried to make the connector hole as tight as possible so that I do not end up shorting the pins on the connector. I also epoxied the body and contacts of the usb adapter, which should also help the pins find their contact. I will take a pic of it once I get it all cleaned up.
So if anyone plans to do this, I went through 4 cables before I finally got it right. I would get close to the end, and a wire or pin would break from stress on the usb connector, or I accidentally cut into the cables and they are very small and hard to reconnect. What ended up working best was to get an $8 flat cable connector from Fred Meyer. It was in a little bin next to the register, but the flat cable and the cheap rubber/plastic that is used to form the connector made it very easy to get into it, short pin 4 and 5, and then put everything back together without ruining anything. The better quality connectors have a rubber that is hard to cut into, and as you are dissecting the connector, you run the risk of nicking the hidden wires. If you could find a cheap OTG cable, it would make everything much easier. Because I opened the connector, when I put it back together and fused the two rubber pieces with my soldering iron, the metal connector moved up and down inside of the rubber casing. Eventually it would have failed.
A few more hints: Don't use a soldering iron over 15W. I roasted everything when I accidentally set my iron to 30W. 15w is still hot, but not too much. 2nd: get one of the soldering stations with the clips and magnifying glasses from radioshack. OMG I don't know how I lived without this thing. SOOOOO much easier to solder with things held in place.
Btw, the first cable I cut into was an OTG cable, and there continuity with resistance between the black and green wire? 25 ohms. I was measuring the wires to see how my solder job was. I ended up digging into the cable, and doing so accidentally cut the black wire, so I had to scrap it.
Update
Painted the bezel in the car's factor color ($8 at O'Reilly for paint plus $20 for prep). Looks good. I realized that the magnets scrape the paint of the bezel as they attach, so I bought some black vinyl ($1.11 at walmart). Still deciding which side to attach it to.
I also got a soft on relay for powering the USB hub (maybe amp too), time is adjustable for power on. I assume the electronics won't like being cycled through ignition ($30). Still deciding if I want all of the stereo components to come on at the same time or just the amp and/or nexus.
I finished and mounted all of the components into the box, including the boost controller. Everything fit perfectly without modification. I removed my old stereo today to ship back to amazon and get a refund. If I finish my homework tonight at a reasonable time, I might have enought time to work on the wiring harness and have it in tomorrow to test without the soft on relay. Now that there is no stereo in the I bet I will get motivated to finish.
I will post pictures once it is installed and maybe of the wiring of the components.
can you please make a video.
How are you planning on turning the tablet on automatically?
I'm installing one in my car two, but I don't want to have to turn it on manually, and I plan on charging it 24/7. So I can't check when the power is connected (ie car started) because it will always have a power input.
I don't want to thread jack, but here's my removable nexus 7 install in my acura TSX. Works like a champ, turns on/off with the car, steering controls are all working...
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-electronics/94338-i-didnt-know-what-do-my-nexus-7-a.html
So I've replaced my stock Navigation system in my '09 Mazda 6 with a 2nd gen Nexus 7.
I bought a used one off ebay because it didn't matter to me if the case/cover was banged up or not as I was planning on building it into the dash. The Nexus fits pretty well in the 2-din opening of the aftermarket panel I got [American International brand kit# MAZK860]. I used a Minisuit-X TPU case to help hold the tablet in place. The case creates a raised frame around the screen and makes it easier to locate the screen from the back of the 2-din panel. Notches needed to be cut in the sub-frame piece of the din kit for the USB connector and headphone jack, but other than that very little modifications were needed. I used a piece of PVC perforated sheet to hold the tablet into the din plate. The perforations in the sheet made it easy to cut out notches and holes with side cutters and achieve the shape I wanted without having to make a mess using a dremel.
For audio, I had purchased a Syba SD-CM-UAUD DAC but had trouble getting it to work right so I am now just using a 3.5mm 4-pin splitter to 3.5mm headphone/mic jacks. I have a JK MIC-J 044 lapel clip microphone stashed behind a small vent in the upper console panel and wired a headphone jack into the harness [Metra 70-7903]. I know some people think the DAC is far superior but I found the headphone jack audio output good enough for me and running it through the stock Bose amplifier in my car sounds excellent.
I'm also using a Joycon EXR to capture steering wheel controls and an EasyCap Dc60 to capture video from my KS1 dual channel dash camera. The camera is set to show the rear view for the video out so I can use it as a back-up camera on the tablet.
My first time installing the tablet worked ok. I had a few problems including the steering controls not working (except Volume down) and the battery wouldn't stay charged enough, forcing me to remove the tablet and charge it every other week. The Easycam also wouldn't work and flash drives wouldn't load right. The Joycon, Easycap, and flash drive issues were due to the $2 4-port hub I got free with something. I tried an Amazon Essentials hub too and it had an intermittent short. A 4-port Insignia hub from Bestbuy did the trick and everything is working now.
I did rebuild the harness last weekend because I wanted to get the Li-Ion battery out of the hot dash. Even though this setup was working ok, when it's 90-plug degrees outside, the tablet will shut itself off and boot-loop until it cools down. I decided to replace the battery with a 12V to 4.2V DC Step-Down regulator. I got an extra battery from ebay and remove the tiny controller board. I had read where other people just replaced the battery with a power supply and were getting odd messages from the tablet about how it was at 0 volts and wouldn't sleep or update properly. So, I used the battery control board and it reports the battery level to the tablet (usually around 90~95%).
The only issue I am having with the power is that when I start the engine, either the power is dropping too much or the car kills power to the radio harness and then I have to wait for the tablet to restart.
To fix this, I plan on using a capacitor to try and keep the tablet powered while the car is starting.
I do need some help. Though I have removed the Li-Ion battery, the overheated tablet will still shut down and boot-loop until it cools down. Is there a way to program it to ignore the temp. sensor? If not, does anyone know where this particular sensor is so I can replace it with a fixed resistor and make it think it's always room temp?
Questions, comments, and ideas welcome!
~Mike
i am sorry i cant be any help but what launcher and rom/ kernel do you use?
amazing. navigation works well ?
ccb101 said:
i am sorry i cant be any help but what launcher and rom/ kernel do you use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using Timur's USB Rom for 4.4.4.
eldar4uk said:
amazing. navigation works well ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't been on any trips yet, but I did test it on the ride home from work and it works well; picks up the GPS signal well. I just used Google Maps navigation for it and I input the directions using "OK Google".
~Mike
I fitted into my 2013 Dodge GrandCaravan and also added a rear view camera! Everything works exceptionally well including the factory steering wheel control
I am now Wazing and enjoying my music in my car!!
here are my parts used (sorry, being a new user means I can't post any links)
0: Atoto A6 2GB/32GB Unit --
1. Steering wheel control --
2. Rear View Camera --
3. Dodge Installation Trim Kit including Antenna adapter
4. Soldering iron and solder
5. PAC Radio Replacement Interface --
6. Trim Panel removal tool --
7. Dremel tool set (You need some cutting) --
8. Wire stripper --
9. Multi meter --
10. Electrical tape --
11. 3.5MM jack to three pin connector, (look for it in Radio Shack)
Now, get to installation,
1. pulling the factory radio is pretty easy, you just use the trim removal tool to get the radio panel off and then unscrew the four screws holding the radio in place. Once remove the screws, gently pull the radio out and disconnect the factory harness and radio connector, the radio connector is pretty fragile, be careful not to break it...
2. Connect the harnesses, open the PAC harness package, you need to determine which harness to use, for my car, it was the one with slightly bigger connector, try it on the factor harness first. Then lay down the color/wire mapping on your desk and start connecting the wires, PAC did not actually strip the wires so you need to do it, after strip the wires, gently twist so they connect better, then chris cross on with the ATOTO wires and solder the wires on, I like to put my soldering gun under the wire to heat them up and let them soak the solder rather than melt the solder using the iron, better conenction.. After solder, use tape to mask up the bare wires, you will connect all wires except three, the thin Ground wire, KEY 1, and KEY, go ahead and cover up KEY 1, you dont need that . Like picture 1
3. Wrap the harness, go ahead and wrap the harness so the wires dont go crazy
4. Install Steering wheel control (optional), open the PAC SWI unit package, and turn the dial to 7 before you do anything else, TURN THE DIAL TO 7 first. Then connect the 7pin connector (white) comes out from your PAC interface to your SWI unit, go to your vehicle, connect to factory harness and follow instructions from PAC (every car is different, you need to follow the factory instructions) and program it, then use the multiulmeter to find the pins output the resistive differences (this is a bit tricky, my suggestion is to solder wires to each pins on the 3.5mm connector (see pic 2) and then use your multi meter find which two wires output resistive values when you press a button) after you find the two wires, connect them to thin black ground wire and KEY wire (NOT KEY1), and then fire up the ATOTO unit and go to DEFAULT SETTINGS -- STEERING WHEEL CONTROL and see if it registers the presses, if not, swap the wires (because there is no clear way to tell which one is ground...) after you confirm its working, solder the KEY and ground wire
5. Placing the antennas, place them anywhere you like, even including inside the radio hole, but I went ahead and place the antennas across the trim and near the wind shield on the driver side so they get better reception.
6. Actually installation, because ATOTO is slightly higher than stock unit you need to do a bit cutting, first cut the TRIM Kit side panel about 2mm from both sides, then use Dremel to trim down the top and bottom notch of the stock Trim piece or until it fits
7. Back up camera is also fairly easy, hook it up with the reverse light and tuck the cable under the trim and you are good to go
Hope it is helpful, please leave me a message if you need any help!
Any pictures of what youu trimmed off?
got a 13 Durango
im about to trim
intruda119 said:
Any pictures of what youu trimmed off?
got a 13 Durango
im about to trim
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
See picture, about 1.5mm from the both sides, dry fit it first
danielqinz said:
See picture, about 1.5mm from the both sides, dry fit it first
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought this to hook up harness and everything but can't get steering wheel controls to work. Do I need an additional module for swc? If so what's the part number.
Any pictures of wire setup?
intruda119 said:
I bought this to hook up harness and everything but can't get steering wheel controls to work. Do I need an additional module for swc? If so what's the part number.
Any pictures of wire setup?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need PAC SWI-RC Steering Wheel Control Interface
Please see my paragraph regarding SWI module, set the module to 7(must do before connect to your car, and then follow instructions to program it_) you also need a 3.5MM jack (Philmore 3.5mm 1/8" Mini Stereo Female Panel Mount Jack Headphone Jack) and find the two wires among the three that outputs resistive values when you press a button then connect to KEY and thin black ground
Pictures of sinstall?
Trying to retain my oem backup camera but looks like I purchased the wrong harness. Made a mistake and purchased axxess harness. Will test.
danielqinz said:
You need PAC SWI-RC Steering Wheel Control Interface
Please see my paragraph regarding SWI module, set the module to 7(must do before connect to your car, and then follow instructions to program it_) you also need a 3.5MM jack (Philmore 3.5mm 1/8" Mini Stereo Female Panel Mount Jack Headphone Jack) and find the two wires among the three that outputs resistive values when you press a button then connect to KEY and thin black ground
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for bothering you but seems like the best person to ask.
I followed another tip to connect the pac swi wires to the key wire. It works but only my volume up/down work and nothing else. Any chance you can point me in the right direction.
The pac harness I bought is all in one so I dont need the seperate harness just for the swi. Thanks in advance.
Im getting feedback from the pac module(blinking red) with all button presses
intruda119 said:
Sorry for bothering you but seems like the best person to ask.
I followed another tip to connect the pac swi wires to the key wire. It works but only my volume up/down work and nothing else. Any chance you can point me in the right direction.
The pac harness I bought is all in one so I dont need the seperate harness just for the swi. Thanks in advance.
Im getting feedback from the pac module(blinking red) with all button presses
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try --
If you find out 3 related wires of SWC, to figure out which 2 wires are the positive of steering wheel control (shorted for "swc"), you can use a multimeter (connect to these 2 wires) to test if the resistor values change when you press different swc buttons, if it does change, it means one of the 2 wires are swc ground, and the other is positive, if not, then go on checking if the resistor values change between the swc ground wire and the other swc wire you found from car harness connector.
If you find out 2 related wires of SWC, either both of them are positive wires or one of them is ground wires. For the positive wires, you can connect them to either “Key” or “Key+” wire of the radio. For ground wire, you should connect it to the thinner ground wire of the radio.
Then you need to program each keys by pressing “Settings ￫Default settings ￫Steering wheel program￫Reset”. Click one key value from ATOTO and it will flicker, when you press one of the keys on steering wheel, the flickering would stop and the status should change, then this key is successfully programmed. Press "Save" to save your setting.
It is important to tap Reset before program it
Also check to see if you get resistive value change to make sure you programmed your SWI module right
I know this is a different vehicle and a different SWC (ASWC-1 vs PAC), but maybe you could give some suggestions?
I have installed the Atoto A6Y2721PB on my 2017 Honda Accord Sport. I am having an issue with the Axxess ASWC-1. I have updated both firmwares to the most recent versions. When I go to program the Steering Wheel Controls through the Atoto system, it is only recognizing no more than 3 of the buttons on the Steering Wheel. Right now it is configured for Pioneer/Jensen as that is what Atoto Customer Service recommended. However, the only buttons recognized are Volume Up, Seek forward, and Seek Backward. It does not recognize volume down, source, or any of the lower buttons: Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command. I tried every brand available on the ASWC-1 manual stereo program, as well as the Auto stereo program, and some recognize the source and volume down buttons, but none recognize the lower (Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command) buttons. I have tried wiring the Atoto to the 3.5mm female multiple ways as well, sometimes different buttons will work, but no more than 3. I am not getting any errors while setting up the ASWC-1, I get the 7 Green LED blinks, and the Red Solid LED as well.
This is installed with the Metra 99-7804 kit for my vehicle.
keithobri said:
I know this is a different vehicle and a different SWC (ASWC-1 vs PAC), but maybe you could give some suggestions?
I have installed the Atoto A6Y2721PB on my 2017 Honda Accord Sport. I am having an issue with the Axxess ASWC-1. I have updated both firmwares to the most recent versions. When I go to program the Steering Wheel Controls through the Atoto system, it is only recognizing no more than 3 of the buttons on the Steering Wheel. Right now it is configured for Pioneer/Jensen as that is what Atoto Customer Service recommended. However, the only buttons recognized are Volume Up, Seek forward, and Seek Backward. It does not recognize volume down, source, or any of the lower buttons: Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command. I tried every brand available on the ASWC-1 manual stereo program, as well as the Auto stereo program, and some recognize the source and volume down buttons, but none recognize the lower (Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command) buttons. I have tried wiring the Atoto to the 3.5mm female multiple ways as well, sometimes different buttons will work, but no more than 3. I am not getting any errors while setting up the ASWC-1, I get the 7 Green LED blinks, and the Red Solid LED as well.
This is installed with the Metra 99-7804 kit for my vehicle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
have you tried use a multi-meter and get resistive readings? if the module does not output resistive values when you press the buttons, or it produces the same value, it might be the module is bad
Can you please share the specific model of the items you used?
A6?????
for the Can bus what adapter model did you ue please?
Thank you,
danielqinz said:
I fitted into my 2013 Dodge GrandCaravan and also added a rear view camera! Everything works exceptionally well including the factory steering wheel control
I am now Wazing and enjoying my music in my car!!
here are my parts used (sorry, being a new user means I can't post any links)
0: Atoto A6 2GB/32GB Unit --
1. Steering wheel control --
2. Rear View Camera --
3. Dodge Installation Trim Kit including Antenna adapter
4. Soldering iron and solder
5. PAC Radio Replacement Interface --
6. Trim Panel removal tool --
7. Dremel tool set (You need some cutting) --
8. Wire stripper --
9. Multi meter --
10. Electrical tape --
11. 3.5MM jack to three pin connector, (look for it in Radio Shack)
Now, get to installation,
1. pulling the factory radio is pretty easy, you just use the trim removal tool to get the radio panel off and then unscrew the four screws holding the radio in place. Once remove the screws, gently pull the radio out and disconnect the factory harness and radio connector, the radio connector is pretty fragile, be careful not to break it...
2. Connect the harnesses, open the PAC harness package, you need to determine which harness to use, for my car, it was the one with slightly bigger connector, try it on the factor harness first. Then lay down the color/wire mapping on your desk and start connecting the wires, PAC did not actually strip the wires so you need to do it, after strip the wires, gently twist so they connect better, then chris cross on with the ATOTO wires and solder the wires on, I like to put my soldering gun under the wire to heat them up and let them soak the solder rather than melt the solder using the iron, better conenction.. After solder, use tape to mask up the bare wires, you will connect all wires except three, the thin Ground wire, KEY 1, and KEY, go ahead and cover up KEY 1, you dont need that . Like picture 1
3. Wrap the harness, go ahead and wrap the harness so the wires dont go crazy
4. Install Steering wheel control (optional), open the PAC SWI unit package, and turn the dial to 7 before you do anything else, TURN THE DIAL TO 7 first. Then connect the 7pin connector (white) comes out from your PAC interface to your SWI unit, go to your vehicle, connect to factory harness and follow instructions from PAC (every car is different, you need to follow the factory instructions) and program it, then use the multiulmeter to find the pins output the resistive differences (this is a bit tricky, my suggestion is to solder wires to each pins on the 3.5mm connector (see pic 2) and then use your multi meter find which two wires output resistive values when you press a button) after you find the two wires, connect them to thin black ground wire and KEY wire (NOT KEY1), and then fire up the ATOTO unit and go to DEFAULT SETTINGS -- STEERING WHEEL CONTROL and see if it registers the presses, if not, swap the wires (because there is no clear way to tell which one is ground...) after you confirm its working, solder the KEY and ground wire
5. Placing the antennas, place them anywhere you like, even including inside the radio hole, but I went ahead and place the antennas across the trim and near the wind shield on the driver side so they get better reception.
6. Actually installation, because ATOTO is slightly higher than stock unit you need to do a bit cutting, first cut the TRIM Kit side panel about 2mm from both sides, then use Dremel to trim down the top and bottom notch of the stock Trim piece or until it fits
7. Back up camera is also fairly easy, hook it up with the reverse light and tuck the cable under the trim and you are good to go
Hope it is helpful, please leave me a message if you need any help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
keithobri said:
I know this is a different vehicle and a different SWC (ASWC-1 vs PAC), but maybe you could give some suggestions?
I have installed the Atoto A6Y2721PB on my 2017 Honda Accord Sport. I am having an issue with the Axxess ASWC-1. I have updated both firmwares to the most recent versions. When I go to program the Steering Wheel Controls through the Atoto system, it is only recognizing no more than 3 of the buttons on the Steering Wheel. Right now it is configured for Pioneer/Jensen as that is what Atoto Customer Service recommended. However, the only buttons recognized are Volume Up, Seek forward, and Seek Backward. It does not recognize volume down, source, or any of the lower buttons: Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command. I tried every brand available on the ASWC-1 manual stereo program, as well as the Auto stereo program, and some recognize the source and volume down buttons, but none recognize the lower (Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command) buttons. I have tried wiring the Atoto to the 3.5mm female multiple ways as well, sometimes different buttons will work, but no more than 3. I am not getting any errors while setting up the ASWC-1, I get the 7 Green LED blinks, and the Red Solid LED as well.
This is installed with the Metra 99-7804 kit for my vehicle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi !
I have the exact same problem. Did you find a fix ? My car is a Outlander 2015.
Thank you !
PAC Radio Replacement Interface
I am doing the same installation for my 2017 base grand caravan and your tutorial is extremely helpful!
Could you kindly confirm if I would need two different PAC modules for the installation? (PAC Radio Replacement Interface and PAC SWC module)
Thank you!:good::good: